What did you do to your GMT today?

Reprise

Lifetime VIP Supporter
Man, that's sad to see what's going to happen to that truck, being in the rust belt. All the fun / love / money that's gone into that thing, only to see it eventually succumb to body cancer. :hissyfit:

My own little starter story is coming up in my build thread. *Nothing* like this one, in comparison.
 

MRRSM

Lifetime VIP Supporter
You were lucky. It could've made for One Helluva Rip-Roaring Engine Fire, too. :eek:

PSFLAMES.jpg
 

Stugar

Member
All was good till we looked into the engine bay and saw some smoke and we shut it down to find that a power steering line had decided to split. View attachment 96955
It was rusty and crusty so its not like it wasn't eventually going to happen but it sucks to get this far and this happen as your repairing something totally unrelated. I'm glad we where standing there as it happened cause the spray of steering fluid coming out could of made a ridiculous mess of the engine bay. Lines are on order and should be here by mid week so we should have his SS back on the road for the weekend.

I've done this job twice in the last two months, not fun on the 4.2L, and I'm sure not fun on the V8's. At least your PS pump isn't on the opposite side of the engine. I know for sure if I ever have to do the job again I'm just pulling the rack and replacing the seals out of the car.
 

xavierny25

Well-Known Member
I've done this job twice in the last two months, not fun on the 4.2L, and I'm sure not fun on the V8's. At least your PS pump isn't on the opposite side of the engine. I know for sure if I ever have to do the job again I'm just pulling the rack and replacing the seals out of the car.
I would think it may be just a little easier on the 4.2 but I haven't done 1 yet. Knock on wood but the starter in my envoy with the 4.2 is original to it and the truck has almost 210k miles on it.
I've had my own set of issues with rack&pinions on my envoy. First replacement from Detroit axle had a stripped bolt hole where the lines are held, then the second one I bought local to me was just a bad rebuild. So went back in with another Detroit axle rack and its been fine since. Although I did have a line come completely off one side of the cooler weeks later but it might of been some kind of air pocket that had been created by all the times I had to remove the lines from the rack to get it to seat correctly. Chances are that was my own fault for Turning the steering wheel at start up when it was like 30°f at a stand still.

Then about a month or so later I had to replace the pump which had run dry for a while so the internals got jacked up and the pulley was making a whole lot of noise. That actually went out and in very smooth surprisingly.
 

Stugar

Member
Eh, the hard part isn't getting around the engine really, it's getting up over the strut tower and down to the rack, then into the rack that's hard IMHO. Sure, I removed the cooling pack from the truck the second time around, but that was more for the trans cooler lines than the PS lines, but I suppose it did make removing that bracket retaining screw a lot easier, and made it possible to put it back in...

And I've had my issues with Detroit Axle racks too, my first one on my TB project came with the pressure line from the control valve to the cylinder smashed because they just threw it in a box and shipped it, it also hadn't come with cup seals. And similarly my second one, an O'Rielly rebuild, had a bad steering shaft seal that filled up the boot.
 

Mike534x

Well-Known Member
@xavierny25 Wow! My lines are looking about as crusty, now you've got me paranoid about mine. :yikes:


So far everything has been good with the new battery! We've had a few cool nights this past week, its so satisfying to get in and just have it start quick and easy. Did the usual checking of fluids and whatnot. Dumped a can of BG44k Fuel Injector Cleaner in, seemed to have decent reviews so figured why not. I've been contemplating how to tackle my oil burning now, that wouldn't involve tearing into the engine. I'm about 43% (3,340 mi) on my OLM. I've driven 500 miles and have had to put a quart in :frown:. No abnormal spots in the driveway, and the dipstick smells and looks like oil aside from being dark. My rear main is leaking though, but not sure how much thats contributing. So I'm deciding if I should try running BG's EPR that you throw into the oil before you change it to help remove carbon build up on the rings or just get a few cans of the AC Delco Top Engine Cleaner and spray it into each cylinder and let it sit for a few hours and see if that helps any. Waiting on the USB borescope camera to arrive so I can take a peak and see how shes looking before going that route.
 

Mooseman

Moderator
Just put the charger on the Saab as the battery was dead again despite a new battery and alternator. So I have a parasitic draw somewhere :mad:
 

Mooseman

Moderator
Got the Saab ready to tow the new trailer home tomorrow. Cleaned it out a bit and also noticed that the left front parking light was out. Change the bulb, nada. I had replaced this socket before and I had soldered and heat shrinked the wires. Well tug on them and it corroded under the heat shrink :mad: . Soldered, heat shrinked and liquid taped everything. The left fog light, which also acts as a DRL, was also out however that one was corrosion in the connector. I didn't have a spare connector so I cleaned it out as much as possible and added some dielectric grease. Works fine now. Also remembered to put a spare tire in the back. Gassed it up at Costco and she'll be ready early tomorrow morning.
 

aaserv

Well-Known Member
Got the new cam but it will be awhile before I do anything with it. Was still trying to the 150 miles w no CEL coming on so I could get the inspection sticker and ofcourse it didnt make it...AGAIN! This time i get a knock sensor code and Im not sure but it kind of felt like in the last mile or 2 before I got home that it was losing power rather badly.
I dont know at this point what Im going to do with it. I cant let it sit another year dry rotting. I dont have the funds to go thru the motor like it needs , still havent solved the over heating problem and ....its a mess.
Im thinking/hoping that maybe the knock is caused because I still havent changed plugs #1 and #8. That a longshot I know but its the only thing I can try in a half a day or so to fix that might work. If it doesnt .............
 

cornchip

Well-Known Member
My TB 'almost' left me stranded again with a no start. This was the same issue I had in June. A local garage replaced the starter (it was good) and did a patch on the ground cable back in June. That in fact was a big mistake on their part...it should have been replaced completely. So last night when it wouldn't crank, I had a set of jumper cables that I used to go between the NEG and a clean spot on the alternator case. Fired up at that point. Today I was able to replace both POS and NEG cables with a new set. Fixed once and for all. :2thumbsup:

BTW...the original failure point of the cable was the ground connect that attaches to the frame at the drivers side front wheel. Water is getting inside the cable and has corroded the cable internally until it can no longer function and eventually heats up and burns. What a silly place to even put a ground.
 

Eric04

Silver Supporter
Dropped and reinstalled the tank today after finding the connector at the pump that I thought was good leaked fuel like a sprinkler. One of the o-rings came apart, upon further inspection. Anyway, after another trip to grab a fuel line repair kit( I know, should've replaced them both to begin with) and more rolling around on the floor it appears it is good to go. First time in weeks without eau de petrol and I was tired of looking at it like this...20200919_133424.jpg
 

Sparky

Moderator
Checked trans fluid. Going to need to get an inch lb torque wrench since last time I borrowed a friend's.

Also noted a rusted tank strap. Glad I saw it before Iost my fuel tank!
 

Attachments

Stugar

Member
Got the tires swapped over from the Envoy onto the TB and balanced. That's not a fun job with a manual changer and balancer. Worst part is that now that I have the tools my brother and his wife will constantly be bugging me for this and that since they're always buying used tires and such. Sigh...

Only a couple more things to go on this before it's ready for winter, gotta take care of the rear wiper, either rebuild it or buy a rebuilt motor, gotta get my radios installed before hunting season, and gotta go over the interior and clean it up.

Also, does anybody know the part number for the door sill retainer clips? There was literally nothing left to take to a parts store of my old clips, the sill is just sitting in there loose other than the christmas tree pin at the front.
 

Blckshdw

Moderator
Also, does anybody know the part number for the door sill retainer clips? There was literally nothing left to take to a parts store of my old clips, the sill is just sitting in there loose other than the christmas tree pin at the front.
If you have a pick n pull nearby, you can get those off junker vehicles for pennies. :twocents:
 

Mooseman

Moderator
Worst part is that now that I have the tools my brother and his wife will constantly be bugging me for this and that since they're always buying used tires and such. Sigh...
Just say "sure you can change your tires. Let me show you how..."
 

littleblazer

Gold Supporter
New rubber.
Before:
20200928_194516.jpg
After:
20200928_202646.jpg
Yes I went up a few sizes.
 

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