What did you do to your GMT today?

TollKeeper

Well-Known Member
Hand washed the Silverado and trailblazer. Both need a good buff/polish job. Maybe I'll buy me a buffer and some patience someday lol.
I had some of that, once upon a time.. than I got married... Than I had a kid... Patience? No more
 

Mike534x

Well-Known Member
Hand washed the Silverado and trailblazer. Both need a good buff/polish job. Maybe I'll buy me a buffer and some patience someday lol.
If you ever get one, the DA polisher from Harbor Freight is great! It took me 6 hours to do the Envoy. Though I was scared about messing up, so I took my sweet time lol. Well worth doing it!


Did the oil change Sunday, ran a can of BG EPR to help free up the piston rings (idle 1200+ rpm for 10 mins straight). Oil came out blacker then I've ever seen. So I took it as a sign that it definitely cleaned out something! So far the noticeable difference is the idle is extremely smooth now and the upper drivetrain noise is way quieter then it was prior. Performance wise, its just a tiny bit more responsive but nothing groundbreaking. Put in the new Wix XP filter, and filled her with Valvoline 5w-30 HM FS. So now its just a waiting game of checking to see if my oil burning slows down. I'm not expecting miracles, but if the EPR helps a little then that's a win until I can do a treatment with the AC Delco Top Engine Cleaner.


Also attached a pic I took while I tested it on Cylinder #5, there's a decent amount of carbon build up. So my conclusion so far is gummed piston rings, and carbon on the valves causing the oil burning I'm experiencing.....and the leaking rear main seal too. lol...
 

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Sparky

Moderator
Doing rear brakes finally. What a pain they are. Got the driver side up, didn't like the crunching sounds I heard when jacking it up but rust scale is reality. Took some hammering but got the drum off (would jave been easier if I could have found a M10 bolt). Worn for sure, but forbover 100k miles on them it doesn't look bad IMO. Finished it up, rotated tires on that side, down, done.

Passenger side was another story.

First, it was extra crunchy when jacking it up. And the frame caved a bit :eek: moved the jack a couple times and got it jacked up ok. Dang it, the frame ain't gonna last me 2 more years after all. Sigh.

Then I had to beat and beat on that passenger drum. This is the side that was making a racket. Found out the parking brake pivot arm is all seized up and the shoe is worn to about nothing. No axle seal leaks so we're good. Taking a short break at the moment.

Yes I know those wheel cylinders look like crap BUT they still work and I would rather not mess with them if not needed.

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Mooseman

Moderator
Started taking the Saab apart in 5c weather. Got the rear diff out easy enough. Took the new alternator and water pump out, the PCM and TCM. Trying to take the front diff out with everything out of the way taking the power steering pump mount out and cutting wires and there's no space to get it out from top. The engine mount bolts are rusted to crap and the diff is in the way of taking the one mounts bolts off. Would have needed a flex socket. Wish I had my torches here as they would have made short work of those bolts.

Oh, and before all this, moved it one last time and...


Strange thing is after blowing up, the starter would actually spin the engine but sounded like it was spinning with no load but no compression. However, I did get resistance turning it with a breaker bar. It didn't throw the rod out of the block. Very strange.
 

Sparky

Moderator
Brakes are on but not done. Pedal is a little spongy and the parking brake does not quite hold it in place, so they need adjusted. Darn drums...
 

TollKeeper

Well-Known Member
Strange thing is after blowing up, the starter would actually spin the engine but sounded like it was spinning with no load but no compression. However, I did get resistance turning it with a breaker bar. It didn't throw the rod out of the block. Very strange.
I would bet the bearings are shot, along with the crank journal. But rods are still in tact.
 

TollKeeper

Well-Known Member
Over the weekend..

Front end rebuild complete!
New
  1. Upper and lower ball joints
  2. Upper and lower control arms
  3. Lower control arm mounts
  4. Stabilizer Links
  5. Struts and springs
  6. Inner and Outer tie rod ends
Everything went smoothly, except the strut extension, and strut extension bolt. Those are a complete nightmare to get off! The threads on one of the bolts did not survive extraction, so a quick junk yard run, and she was back up.

The lower control arm mounts are a pain when those captive nuts break free. But I discovered 2 things while doing this about them. You can easily get a large wrench onto them, I believe it was a 1 5/16 wrench. Once it popped out of the frame, I sprayed PB Blaster liberally all over the nut, exposed threads of the bolt, and anything else I could soak in relation. I then zipped the bolt in and out a good 5 times. I then zipped the bolt down to spec. It sucked the nut right back into the nut retention ring, and held firmly! Zipped the bolt back out, and did not have another problem. Luckily, I only had this problem for one nut/bolt per side, the very front one that sits right under the stabilizer bar. The easist one to get thru the access hole cut into the frame just in front of it.

Drove like shit! But sent it over to Firestone for a Lifetime Alignment, and now its all good. Gotta get use to a firmer ride until those springs and struts get broke in.

I cant tell you how nice it is to work on a truck with 200k miles on it, and to know that every bolt, nut, frame section, anything, you touch, is going to be rust free. (Not trying to be snarky, just glad I can get MANY more years out of the old girl)
 

Stugar

Active Member
One thing I've found that's great about these trucks is how well the Geomet coating on the fasteners work. The frame could be rusted apart and you'll still be able to remove most fasteners with an impact. My Envoy had experienced 17 Ohio and Michigan winters without many car washes and even right to the end fasteners would come out no problem, I think the only bolts I ever broke were the one holding the ac suction line to the engine lift bracket, and some of the nuts for the battery tray seized up and required removal from the back side.
 

Sparky

Moderator
Backed up and stabbed the brakes a few times, then held the parking brake release lever while pumping the parking brake pedal. The parking brake pedal no longer goes to the floor and the brakes feel much better. Win.
 

TB_n00b

Well-Known Member
  • I'm behind here. August 24th, found an oil spot under the front diff. Isolated to the drivers side seal.
  • August 25th, tried to pull drivers axle on my own. No luck pulling axle.
  • August 26th, dropped to the local repair man for a 3 night stay for 300 clams.
  • October 10th, started hearing a humming while driving home after moving my brother upstate.
  • October 11th, start poking around, find grease slung all over front passenger side wheel well. Outer CV boot had a small tear. Threw on a quick boot.
  • October 12th, decided to cut the cord on this beast and start looking for a new set of wheels.
  • October 17th did a heavy duty shop vac of the interior and quick wash then visited some Subaru dealers to start car shopping.
 

Mounce

Well-Known Member
Changed oil for the Silverado, went with Mobil to see what the hypes about and see if it outlasts the max life. Lifters get angry towards the end of the oci. Also went with stock spec wix oil filter instead of the longer one I usually use. Gotta find something to help the lifter collapse or finally replace them.
 

TollKeeper

Well-Known Member
Replaced the rear wiper washer motor. Then threw a bitch fit at Advance Auto Parts. They cant find my warranty records for my ball joints. They claim the upgraded their computer systems, and I have to call customer service to get them. GRR!
 

Stugar

Active Member
I put a cardone wiper motor on two weeks ago, it failed the next wednesday. Gotta deal with returning that to rockauto... Though first I gotta trouble shoot it I guess. The shaft of the old one was seized in the barrel of the motor and would only turn like 15 degrees and then stall, so I knew the circuit was good, just that it was seized. Now I suppose I gotta check the circuit first.
 

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