What did you do to your GMT today?

[aaserv]

Boy the Jinx is pushing me today.. Didnt realize there were 2 different size bell washers. Drivers side was no problem. Passenger...nothing but. 1st I didnt put a washer at all on top and didnt notice it till i thought i was finished. Compress the springs grab a washer and redo it. No problem. Go to put it on and the top washer wont go thru the hole in the frame. Have a big washer on top.... Go look at my pile and there is the set i took off the old ones and there is a set of new ones left over. So apparently I got 2 extra big washers in the strut kit or it takes 2 big ones on each shock and i dont know where the 2nd 1 goes.... Either way by 9am it was pushing 90degs and I was soaking wet so passenger side do ever for the 3rd time will have to wait.....

 

[gmcman]

Fresh set of shoes. Went with the Defender LTX again, had 74K on the last set and could have stretched them a little more, but was at the wearbars.

 

[gmcman]

@aaserv IIRC, the large washer goes under the new mount, and yes, the smaller goes on top. The mount should have had two different sized washers.

 

[Mike534x]

Changed out my alternator.......again. The refurb AC Delco one I put in back in March is having an issue with the voltage regulator, so it went back to constantly fluctuating on matter the load. Biggest sign was the dimming headlights, and dash lights pulsating. Picked up a Remy one, seemed to have good reviews and so far so good. Also stopping into the shop again tomorrow to pull the trans pan, the 1-2 shift is still harsh so I wanna see whats up that before the band takes anymore unnecessary "shock". I'm thinking the gasket on the piston isn't fully seated, or maybe the spring went in cocked somehow. But I definitely want to get to the bottom of this.

 

[GreenMachineTB]

Sometimes I do things that don't really need a new thread, mainly because they aren't asking for help. They are like "I did this, here it is, here's some pics, later" type posts. Another site that I am on has a thread like this. I think it is very cool and hip so I am bringing it here.

Today I braved the 38° weather and put my Ohio alt back in.

While I was at it, I did some hunting for an intermittent voltage drop. Found it.

This wire, that went from the alt B+ stud to the battery, passed an initial voltage drop wiggle test a few weeks ago. The wire was secured well enough that I couldn't wiggle it enough to "see" the drop. When I unclipped the zipties that held the wire in place, I had enough slack that I got .7v when I moved it just right. The tubing, wire loom, and boot concealed the now-obvious damage. It was the only ring terminal out of probably 20 in the truck that was crimped on by some fancy crimping apparatus used by the wire manufacturer and not by me. Lesson leaned.

So what did you do to yours?

Yesterday i swapped my rear dif to match the front, went from 3.42 gears to 3.73 gears. This morning i did a reset and drove it around to test the 4x4.

 

[gmcman]

the 1-2 shift is still harsh

Are you still using the pinless or the OE 1-2 piston? Doesn't the pinless by itself firm up the 1-2 shift?

Did you use the OE seperator plate from the dealer or aftermarket?

If aftermarket, was it drilled for firmer shifts?

If that's the case, and I don't know about your kit, but coupling a plate for firm shifts along with the pinless 1-2 could produce some hard shifts.

 

[Mike534x]

Are you still using the pinless or the OE 1-2 piston? Doesn't the pinless by itself firm up the 1-2 shift?

Did you use the OE seperator plate from the dealer or aftermarket?

If aftermarket, was it drilled for firmer shifts?

If that's the case, and I don't know about your kit, but coupling a plate for hard shifts along with the pinless 1-2 could produce some hard shifts.

Using the Pinless, the firmness is dependent on the spring used (according to Sonnax). I had one of their purple springs installed, which was firm but not too soft. But I used the OEM ones instead for a balanced soft/but not too firm shift (I figured by doing the vette servo later on, this setup would give the shift firmness I'm going for). I've got the pinless for the 3-4 and its perfect, its firm but nothing crazy it just feels "right". OEM separator plate cross referenced from the dealer and RA, and it was drilled for the "quick/soft" shifts from the instructions. Its just the standard "orange" box Transgo kit.


I may have figured out whats happened, after some back and forth texting. When I had left for the day they were putting it all back together (the night before I test drove her). It sounds like the friend of the friend that helped, was swapping out the springs for the 1-2 accumulator. Instead of putting it as housing -> springs - > pinless, they went with housing -> pinless -> springs (so the pinless is in the housing with the springs facing the plate). Granted, the second step works if this were for a 94' or earlier model....otherwise it should have been installed identical to the OEM config. Needless to say, I'm not happy and I just hope this didn't cause any harm to the bands or anything.

 

[aaserv]

Finally the struts are in...for good I hope. Lotta beating and banging on those lower mounts....wondering if I should have the alignment reckd.....
On another note or interesting tidbit.......Got the strut compressor at O Reillys. Guy said I had 48 hrs to return it....Turns out they charge your card if its not back in 48 hrs but you actually have 1yr to return it for a full refund! If I owned a shop Im not sure Id ever buy a tool I could rent for a year for nothing...........

 

[Mike534x]

Finally the struts are in...for good I hope. Lotta beating and banging on those lower mounts....wondering if I should have the alignment reckd.....
On another note or interesting tidbit.......Got the strut compressor at O Reillys. Guy said I had 48 hrs to return it....Turns out they charge your card if its not back in 48 hrs but you actually have 1yr to return it for a full refund! If I owned a shop Im not sure Id ever buy a tool I could rent for a year for nothing...........

Huh....sounds like a life pro-tip. I'm curious to see if thats a thing elsewhere.

The struts on these can be a pain, hopefully your happy with the new ride and don't mess with them again for awhile. Changing out the struts don't really require an alignment, unless you changed the upper or lower ball joints then yeah I'd get one.


Hard shift is soft. Dropped the pan, and yep....the piston (dome end) was facing the bottom of the housing with the springs facing the top. Ugh. Well getting the damn thing out, and flipping it around and letting the PCM/TCM reset all it well. It does chirp the tires at WOT when you mash on it, which is whatever I'll chalk it up to the bits and pieces from the Transgo kit. Otherwise its back to being just right. After seeing how it is with the OEM springs, I kinda liked the firmness the purple Sonnax ones offered, another job for next time I'm done touching the thing lol.

 

[aaserv]

Tried to do the brakes today. Watched several videos so I didnt cross anything up....But as usual The Jinx won the battle again. Tried using the old brake pad and a c-clamp to push in the pistons but they refused to go. Took the pad out and tried them 1 at at a time and they moved. put the pad back in and they wont budge at all. Had to put a pipe wrench on the clamp to turn it at all...not impressed with the chinese clamp i picked up at oreillys.......

 

[aaserv]

Stuck piston on drivers side.... Thought it might be so I got 1 of those $7 single piston pushers and 1 piston went down by hand the other goes about 3/4 of the way down via pipe wrench then wont budge at all. Caliper looks and has same numbers on it as my I6 swb parts car so hopefully its still functional. Stay tuned next week for my adventures in bleeding the Jinx brakes..... This car is determined to bankrupt me or kill me and right now the race is neck and neck.

 

[gmcman]

@aaserv Unless it was your C-clamp not turning smoothly, with what you went through, I would opt for 2 new loaded calipers. Not worth the hassles down the road with sticking pistons and hardware.

 

[aaserv]

Yea looks like thats what Im going to do. Pulled 1 off my parts car and its dry rotted. I can get 2 unloaded for a lil less than $100. I got all new hardware and pads, etc. I just hate that i gotta go with the cheapest thing I can find but moneys tight and I gotta get this thing rolling or watch it all rot away in this heat.

 

[Mooseman]

Replaced the battery in the Saab with one from Costco. The battery that was in there was totally DOA. Now this is after replacing the alternator. I just hope it's not a parasitic drain.

 

[aaserv]

Ok Ive had it. Im filing suit....class action if anybody wants to join me. Its not my fault all the hell Ive gone thru.
Today i decide to put the new calipers in since Ive got a couple of hours before the tornados start hitting. Cant find either 1 of my 18mm sockets, they just walk off, who knows how. I put new bolts in the floating holes....then dont realize the brackets are different for each side. Putting the second 1 on when I realize it and have to start all over again. Get the 1st wheel complete and move to the passenger side, pull the new caliper out the box and notice the hardware is different........yep its the wrong stuff. no biggie cus i have most of it new with the factory pads.........wait! whats that? the new bolt that connects the brake line to the caliper is just laying in the box and not screwed in like the other 1 was.....OOOOOO I see why,,,,Its the wrong 1!!! well i still have the old 1 so no problem......except it looks like the moron who reman'd this set tried to screw it in the hole....Now the damn threads looked stripped. put it all together and go to put the line on and sure as s*** it stripped.........Ok now Im really pissed. especially since theres a tag on the caliper that says make sure you dont cross thread that line cus that will void the warranty! I didnt cross thread it they did!!

I can tell you who I blame for all this .........When i 1st started to attempt this project I was watching all the Eric O South Main auto channel videos.. Popping this part on, slinging this part on, whipping this 1 on behind his back......looks like the Harlem Globetrotters of Auto Repair.......Easy work , no problem. And whats HE ALWAYS SAY AT THE END OF HIS VIDEOS??????? "Remember folks If I can do it YOU can do it"............. BULLS***!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! I cant f'n do it !!!!!!!!! Im suing , I was mislead and lied to. I want a personal apology and a retraction AND damages!
Anybody else want to join my suit contact my attorneys directly....Dewey, Screwum and Howe,LLC Im working with a jr. partner of the firm so submit your info to her, Delores Blasingame.......

 

[Mounce]

Ordered a couple goodies for it, new bumper reverse cubes, had one die. Larger trans cooler. Super common me to see trans temps as hot or hotter than coolant temp in traffic or a drive through even though it has an external cooler. Trans gets pretty loose at 200 degrees and I'm not a fan.

Filled up with gas, something like 12.5 mpg on the last tank.

Have some replacement sockets for the DRL mod I've done, the Dorman sockets never held leds good and one won't hold on for more than a couple days and let's the bulb move far enough to lose running light function. Also got some new leds, running out of my switchback stock and couldn't easily find the style I like on Amazon so went with some ambers. I love the look of both, just prefer switchback. First time trying amber on the truck, I switched back and forth regularly when I had the Mustang lol.

 

[TB_n00b]

Tried and failed to do the front diff driver side axle seal. Axle wouldn't budge. womp.

 

[Mounce]

Rotate and balance on the Silverado. These yokohama all terrains won't keep balance long, gotta balance every rotation. Could be due to edge wear on the front from hanging turns too hard every day, inside and outside has even edge wear. Whatever, these tires have already outlasted my last set and still have a ton of tread left.

Also took the wheel spacers off for piece of mind. Always made me nervous. Liked the look, hated the extra filth throw on the sides of the truck and rougher ride. Best it's felt in a year.

 

[Mektek]

Tried and failed to do the front diff driver side axle seal. Axle wouldn't budge. womp.

I had a tough time with it too. What worked was the 5lb slide hammer with axle puller attachment borrowed from Autozone. Even that took multiple attempts since the slide hammer weight is in an awkward location and difficult to use without hitting the suspension.

 

[aaserv]

Much fun bleeding the brakes . Almost wore out the grandkid pumping the brakes. Seriously we pumped the drivers side probably 35 times and the passenger side well over 50 before the bubbles stopped coming. Still not much pedal but havent been able to try it running since battery is dead and no way to get to it to jump it off. Walmart battery pack is a piece of s***...should have returned it the 1st time i tried it. Has never worked on anything but my lawnmower...

 

[aaserv]

Took her out for a drive finally. New struts, brakes and fan clutch. Unbelievable the way the front end feels now. 80% of the front end bushings are less than a yr old, decent tires and front end aligned. This thing drives like brand spanking new. Front end sits up a lil higher, maybe 3/4" but it just feels so much better. Brakes are a shade mushy but not a squeak to be heard. I couldnt be happier with how it turned out....well thats not true, the rattling doors are really driving me nuts now. Think it is that rubber seal just shrunk down just enough give them a lil play.
Fan clutch seems to be working, i can hear it changing speeds and feel the difference in airflow but still its not right. Doing some reading it appears that sometime around 05 maybe they came out with a software update to change how the fan is regulated and I think thats what Im missing. That would be around the same time they started using the BEHR clutch fans so it would make sense that maybe they upgraded the programming as well. I did try the towel deal with the brand new clutch fan and i can easily stop it from turning even when its running much faster than normal. Not sure that towel test is legit. I just dont think the computer calls for enough fan speed in really hot conditions. It starts out asking for around 300 rpms and goes up from there but never asks for 100% unless you hit 265 degs! I dont even think its asking for 50% very often. Im going to look around this week for someone with the tool to upgrade the software . I found that HP Tuners also allows you to go in and adjust the settings so maybe Ill find someone who can help with that.

Well next is getting those doors seals tightened up and then rear shocks. Havent been to the junkyard in awhile so I may just go get the best available ones there on the cheap and see how it does. I got $35 detroit axles on there now and their worthless. Feels like a Caddy in the front and a dump truck in the back...lol If I can get the battery and non-starting issue behind me as well I may be able to trust this thing enough to drive it for a change.

 

[Sparky]

Seriously considering some redneck body work again with some patch panels, 3M panelbond, and Raptor Liner. These rear arches have disintegrated this year and the rockers as already noted are falling apart. Thing is, at 223k almost 224k is it worth the time/effort/money to put bandaids on the cosmetics at this point...

 

[HARDTRAILZ]

Got a new winch rope to transfer the old on to the car trailer. Never liked the steel line on the trailer and its looking rough.

 

[Mike534x]

Retightned the sway bar link on the driver side, not sure if I have a bum one from SuspenionMAXX but it keeps loosening up after a couple hundred miles. I put a small bead of blue locktite on the threads, so we'll see how that holds up. Ordered Moog UBJ so I can finally change them out, and put the new UPC in as well. Transmission still feels great after getting some good highway driving in, my cats are definitely due to be replaced with the amount of "rattling" I'm getting from the passenger side.

I'm also feeling the itch to swap out the struts again. The Monroe OESPectrums are nice, but I'm noticing they aren't as "firm" as they used to be. It honestly feels like it did before swapping out the worn struts when I first bought her. Seriously contemplating picking up the blue/yellow Bilsteins, I've got the Moog 81112 (semi firm I think the rating is) springs already so it should firm it up enough that isn't too "hard" of a ride. Rear end is still pretty solid with the silver KYB Gas-a-Just shocks so I'll probably leave them as they are.

 

[aaserv]

Seriously contemplating picking up the blue/yellow Bilsteins.

Well worth the money, and actually not all that much more costly than say the KYB's. Mine feel like Im driving a brand new car and if the original Bilsteins lasted 200k miles when you figure in cost per mile their actually cheap!!

 

[aaserv]

This may sound dumb but after finally getting the Jinx to 90% of where I want it to be I ordered a new camshaft. With 203K Miles it just doesnt have the pep in its step I want it to have. Ive owned this car for right at 18 months and have driven it less than 1500 miles total. But I want it right. I figure new heavier valve springs and a slightly better cam should do the trick. I think with the experience of already having tore it down to replace the timing chain it wont take me 8 months to do it a 2nd time. Ideally Id like to do head gaskets , oil pump and even put the 4 bolt throttle body intake I picked up in a junkyard and a new throttle body also but thats more dreaming than actual planning. I think i can do the cam, valve seats and springs in a weekend or so and be satisfied. Cooler weather should be here in another month or so. Hopefully it all goes back together with an OEM fan clutch this time as well. Im just so impressed with how much better it feels with the front suspension redone that I dont want to stop there. Its so close to being a fantastic ride I feel obligated to go the next step.....

 

[Mooseman]

Have you tried getting a tune? I did on the Saab and it really wakes up this beast.

 

[aaserv]

I might be wasting my time altogether as I believe the motor may be worn more than it appears. I think it got somewhat reasonable oil changes but probably with elcheapo oil and filters. The 1 thing that concerns me is my vacuum readings are still lower than normal. Im hoping valve seals, new springs and just a lil larger than stock cam will get it back....if not I know Ill need crank bearings, rings, etc. I do plan to get the tune afterwards when Im done. 1st the software update, then the springs and seals and once Ive gotten a good factory fan clutch sending it off for the tune. My hope is the motor will still have some life left in it afterwards and over the winter I can work on the tranny and the cats Im sure Ill need at some point soon.. If not Im back to my original thoughts of building an entire motor, hopefully a 6.0 or 6.3. Luckily I dont need the car as an everyday driver. Its strictly just a project for me to throw spare change at and probably leave it to a grandkid 1 day who'll tear it up in a few months time....lol

 

[Mounce]

Upgraded the trans cooler on the Silverado. Hayden 679 just like I used on the trailblazer. Same width and thickness as the factory cooler but twice the height, kind of a tight fit but not near as tight as on the TB.





Also reconnected the washer fluid line and swapped out the PIAA silicone wiper blade inserts, finally started streaking after 2 years.

 

[gmcman]

I might be wasting my time altogether as I believe the motor may be worn more than it appears

Getting a compression test done, both dry and wet, will give you a good indication on the health of the engine.

Least this way you will know what you're dealing with.

 

[Mounce]

Pulled the Silverado into the shop to get it ready for vacation tomorrow. Spent about 4 hours on it. Cleanest the inside has been since I bought it. Noticed passenger side projector was out. Bad ballast. I keep spares so not a huge deal but now they don't match perfectly. Topped off oil and checked fluids. Went to replace the reverse bumper led cubes, had one out. Put new one on and wired up, still didn't work. Positive wire full of corrosion at a soldered splice. Fixed that, then neither one worked. Complete ground wire full of corrosion, guess I moved it around enough to make it show itself. Replaced that and all is good. Put spare tire back under it. Loaded my trip tools into it, packed lighter than usual, I refuse to need them or entertain the thought of using them on this trip. Needed to check tire pressure but noticed it was midnight and said screw it, they're all around 35 per tpms but I prefer 40. Maybe I'll get it in the morning. (probably not)

 

[Mounce]

Drove her 400 miles, old girl done awesome. 15.6 mpg to boot after running 80 the whole way.

 

[Mounce]

Romped her 400 miles back home. 16mpg at the hallway fill up after running 80-90, best mpg I've coaxed out of it. Recently new fan clutch and new trans cooler are an unbeatable upgrade at 150k. Jellico mountain in Tennessee usually tests everything out well, ragged her pretty good and coolant temp dropped 1 degree and trans only rose 2 degrees on the way up the mountain at 3krpm in third with the converter locking and unlocking when it wanted for about 5 minutes. Astonishing. Of course the tcc pwm delete helps a ton with trans temp control, either locked or unlocked, no long slip fest to spike temps.

 

[Mike534x]

Couldn't free the other shock today with the rain, and I was growing tired of my truck barely starting when the temp started dropping. We went into the 60s this past week, and had to jump her after she sat for 10 hours at work. Saw Sams Club had a sale on Duracell batteries, so I went over and snagged an AGM one after being exhausted from fighting Interstate to get the one I had replaced.

 

[mrrsm]

Mike... I know this next thing LOOKS like a "Pretty Pricey Bit of Kit"... but for anyone owning any Expensive AGM Batteries that really wants to keep things working properly at all times...THIS THING is the Best AGM Battery Trickle Charger AND Maintainer around:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01K87YZ3C/?tag=gmtnation-20

Ever since I almost lost the use of my AutoZone Platinum AGM Battery and right after resurrecting it with an Optima 1200 Battery Charger-maintainer:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009M3PQFA/?tag=gmtnation-20

...I've been keeping things going along flawlessly with it by using this "Battery Tender" Unit. Now, whenever I want start the Y2K Silverado after it has to sit unattended sometimes for weeks on end (Thanks to COVID-19 Isolation), it Starts Right Up in less than 5 Seconds and the Battery Power is always at Peak!

After10-15 Minutes of idling, the Top End-Valve Train and all Engine Bearings get nicely refreshed with Mobil1 Motor Oil and I can leave it again for a while and NOT have to worry that it will NOT Start in the future.

 

[Matt]

Did a 200 mile round trip yesterday to play golf with a big bunch of mates. Got 19mpg even for the trip.

 

[Sparky]

Briefly window shopped around for a replacement, to get an idea of current prices. Sigh. Trucks are expensive.

 

[Reprise]

Trucks are expensive.

Yep. If you make your living w/ the truck, you can at least depreciate it at tax time, and maybe even get a new one every few years.

For the rest of us... well, we have to be creative. Or mechanically adept. Or a lottery winner.

 

[Mounce]

Filled up the Silverado, front pads and rotors on the TB.

 

[xavierny25]

This is for anyone planning on putting long tube headers on there 5.3 6.0 6.2 and so on, on there v8 360's 370's or Silverado, Seirra. REPLACE YOUR WORN OUT OLD STARTER BEFORE YOU DRIVE YOURSELF CRAZY LATER.

Story of my last couple of days working on my brother-in-law's tbss started last Friday when his truck wouldn't start after picking up some dinner. I got the call and went over to help but it was late and dark and I couldn't do much but get him a tow to his house using 1 of my free in town tows I get from my insurance.

The truck sat in his driveway for a few days till I could investigate. I did what I have learned from all the no crank no start threads on here and I got it pinned down to being an issue with the starter.

We decided to pick up a stater and get a start on Saturday and hopefully finish that night but that wasn't what happened (never is...lol).

First issue and the biggest is long tube headers. He's got the big 1 7/8 tubes off each port so I'm talking about no room for anything getting by that area and the frame. So the manifold had to come off the head and Y pipe to get it up and out of the way as much as possible. Guess what? Still not enough room.

After a whole lot of !@#$% and ^&*()
The only way and route it was coming out was by dropping the rack down. We already had the brace out the way so just 2 bolts holding the rack in place did the trick after a whole lot of choose words breaking the bolts free.
Tried pulling the tranny lines out the way and this was the way we felt comfortable doing so.


After getting the old 1 out we saw the issue as soon as it was in my hand.
The wire had corroded of the solenoid.
New starter ready to go in. Took all of 20 minutes to get the wires on and it bolted back in place. After about another couple of hours getting everything else back in it was time to fire it up. Unfortunately the battery was died so pulled the Voy up to give it a boost after a few minutes the SS started right up.

All was good till we looked into the engine bay and saw some smoke and we shut it down to find that a power steering line had decided to split.
It was rusty and crusty so its not like it wasn't eventually going to happen but it sucks to get this far and this happen as your repairing something totally unrelated. I'm glad we where standing there as it happened cause the spray of steering fluid coming out could of made a ridiculous mess of the engine bay. Lines are on order and should be here by mid week so we should have his SS back on the road for the weekend.