What did you do to your GMT today?

[Mike534x]

Doing more work to the Envoy before Winter fully hits, been down the past 2 weeks with a bad virus thats going around. Ended up taking the Envoy into the shop this week to have the Front Axle Shaft seal replaced, only costed about $200 which was pretty reasonable. Turns out the seal wasn't the only problem, the UPJ pinch bolt had broke sometime on the trip. The front end was so tight I didn't feel anything off, but sure enough they hand it to me and the end where the bolt usually sits is rusted through and gone (along with said bolt). Shops nearby were out of stock on it, so they bought a cheapo UBJ to steal the bolt from.

I also started noticing the front brakes are squealing when coming to a stop, so I'll be looking into that tomorrow. There is also a fair amount of brake dust build up on the wheels, which is a bit odd. Anyone else experience this with the AC Delco Professional pads? Rotors are Napa Premium front + rear.

Also swapping out the the sway bar links again. The inner bolt on the MOOG sway bar link striped, and the rears are shot (after 2 years). Decided to bite the bullet and ordered SuspensionMAXX ones for the front and rear.

 

[Mounce]

Oil change on the Silverado, went back to 5w30 maxlife and the usual wix 51522 extended (larger than calls for) filter.

Was gonna rotate tires but brother and nephew came over to hunt for youth gun weekend so I figured I ought not fire up the compressor and impact.

 

[Mooseman]

Got the starter out of the Saab. What a bitch of a job! Had to jack up the engine until stuff on top started crunching and it was still tight. Had to bend tranny lines out of the way and squeeze it through the space between the engine, exhaust pipe and crossmember. New one will go in another days as I was too cold to continue.

 

[Mooseman]

So got the starter in. It was easier than getting it out . Engine mount wouldn't go back into the holes on the bracket. Had to use a skinny screwdriver in a hole to move the stud and then lower the engine. Started right up but it now has a tranny line leak . And it's not in an easy spot where I could quickly splice it, oh no. It's right at the fitting that goes into the tranny. Screw it. Later this week, I'll drive it to the gas station with the leak, fill it and then park it in my yard till the spring.

I can't win

 

[Mounce]

Installed a factory tailgate cap that I scored at the junkyard recently. Hated the plain cap that the previous owner had put on and I actually like the way the factory ones look.

Spoiler

Double sided body tape is the devil, took two hours to clean it off

 

[HARDTRAILZ]

Took it out to our property for some deer hunting.

 

[xavierny25]

Last night.

The SS got a fresh new tune thanks to @limequat !

 

[gpking]

I replaced the belt tensioner on the Silverado. Very easy job. While looking around, I noticed a puddle forming on the driveway and a coolant leak presumably coming from the petcock that had leaked into the fan shroud, down into the skid plate. It's always something. Fix one thing, find two more things wrong.

 

[Blckshdw]

Yanked out the rear interior panels this morning. Needed to pick some stuff up from the hardware store, and a 4x8 sheet of plywood doesn't fit quite right, was a couple inches short on width with them in. In addition to that, got an attic ladder, and some vertical blinds for the living room. Ran a bungee cord through the lift gate striker, and inserted both hooks into the latch. Kept the gate mostly closed during the drive home.








Didn't realize how dirty the panels had gotten, especially the backsides. Guess that's what happens when I forget to close the 3rd row windows and it rains, so gave them a good wipe down before reinstalling.

 

[Mike534x]

Installed the SuspensionMAXX links in the rear, had to get the torch and a few cutting wheels. Managed to get the driver side off, took a bit due to the bolt being seized. Couldn't believe the rear links were shot after 2 years, so hopefully the lifespan on these are better.

After a long test drive, wow. I am very impressed. Definitely better then the MOOGs when they were first put on, so I feel the value already. Also did the front and rear brakes, took out the Delco's and put the Akebonos on. Water pump is developing a slow leak, so I have to get that fixed now after just replacing it. When it rains it pours.

 

[Eric04]

Tiny job that had to take twice as long as it should have. Passenger taillight was out. Bulb was bad. Install new bulb, nope. Order new circuit board. Takes days longer than it should have to arrive. Remove old board today, two pins remain in the connector, flush. Take connector apart and fiddle with a T pin and magnet to fish the damn things out. Reassemble, apply dielectric grease and finally done. Mini rant over, and I know, should've upgraded to LEDs long ago.

 

[Reprise]

Needed to get a spare tire for the Sierra, with a -1 size change from the 17s I put on from a NBS Silverado 2500. And they had to be load range 'E'. Looked online, and the cheapest ones I could find were about $135 or so.

On a lark, I checked CL, and found a guy selling two used ones in the exact size I needed for $20 (total). Had to drive about 30mi each way into WI to get them, and I'll have to pay to mount them, but still a helluva lot cheaper than paying for a new tire I'd probably never use (the ones on the truck are brand new). Legal (barely) tread, no sidewall / belt issues, never patched, even wear, and mfg'd in 2015. Put a double sawbuck in the guy's hand, and into the bed they went.

When I got home, I put the truck in park and let it idle for a couple of minutes - and the ABS & traction control lights lit up (along with a few corresponding 'bongs' from the DIC (but no message on the dash). The same thing happened yesterday, when I made the jaunt to the auto parts store for the trans filter. Key off / restart, and the lights are gone. And they only show up after the truck has been driven, put into park, and left idling for a minute or two. Weird.

I'm leaning toward the VSS or maybe a hub (but I have rear hubs, instead of fronts). Braking is fine, otherwise. Will hook up the Tech2 tomorrow and run diags.

 

[Mounce]

Gave the Silverado a few loud grumpy sighs to show my disappointment.

Have replaced everything in the front end a while back and still have a squawk coming from the new moog lower control arm bushings, they squeaked the day I put them in. ONLY THE PASSENGER SIDE. It's driving me nuts. Sometimes a proper douche of silicone spray will quiet them or they'll quiet by themselves occasionally. Gave the fasteners full beans with the impact today hoping they had came loose (gave 1/16 of a turn so maybe?) along with another douching. No luck.

Oh, and filled it up, averaged 13.7 smiles per gallon.

Edit: the old factory ones squeaked the same, so I replaced them thinking it would fix it.

 

[Reprise]

From above... Tech2 reported two speed sensor codes (both for left front) - C0227, C0225 (erratic signal, missing signal). Got a new ACDelco replacement ordered from Amazon; it'll be here on Wed. Also, as of today, the lights are constantly on now, and reappear immediately after clearing with the T2. Was kinda wondering when the codes would trigger 'full-time'. Didn't take long.

As I recall, when I reconnected the harness for that one sensor a couple of weeks ago, it wasn't staying in the frame rail with it's little 'christmas tree' (although the other retainers along the length of the harness were fine). Hopefully, I don't remove the tire to see the harness ripped out of the connector. Still, glad to find out it was a front sensor, rather than the rear one(s).

On a side note... while I'm glad I have the Tech2, it's definitely a pain to scroll back & forth through all those nested menus. And I do have a question, which I'll post in the appropriate subforum.

 

[TollKeeper]

I had parked the Envoy 2 weeks ago so I could get the new Buick tested and properly broke in. Then over the weekend the wifes car broke. So I pulled the Voy in the garage, put the new Drivers Door Check, and broke the support bracket for the door handle pull. Then put my new tires/rims on. Pulled the wifes now broken car out onto the street, pulled the Buick into her parking spot. And called it a night.

While I was out over the weekend getting some smaller parts to finish the repairs on the Buick, I ran across the same year Buick Rendezvous in the salvage yard. I was tempted to scavenge all the hard external parts off it, but decided against it. Not going to become more of a pack rat! It was hard to resist thou. The engine on this car is a 1 year production only! However, it did have the very hard to come by Navigation unit. I pulled it, and the rear hatch license plate finish panel, and rear hatch pull handle.

Got home tested out the Nav unit, and it works flawlessly. SCORE! Now I just need to get a hold of a Tech2 or a Autel 908s to clear out the VIN.

 

[Redbeard]

Replaced right side brake light circuit board and placed new plug that inserts into the circuit board. Brake light stopped functioning with power to the board and when the board was disconnected two of the prongs also came out of the circuit board. Burn marks were on the Ground Wire. Go figure. Back up and functioning properly.

 

[djthumper]

The Silverado is currently parked for some R&R.

 

[Mounce]

Added hid high beams to the Silverado. Had bulbs, ballasts, wiring, and relay on hand. Saved myself 10 bucks making my own relay harness with everything I already had.

 

[2001ZR2]

Based on reading the above I am a slacker but my two GMT 360s are running solid. I did finally do the rear brakes on my son's Trailblazer. I had to get it done as he is leaving to go back to college today.

The rotors had corrosion and pitting on them when we brought but that soon cleared up. I did measure the old rotors and they were at 18.57-18.58 mm on a 18.50 minimum. I think someone changed the pads and reused the rotors at some point.

All back together and ready to roll.

 

[littleblazer]

Just finished up the trans cooler lines on the escalade. Was actually really straight forward... took 3.5 hours with a lunch break and 2 trips to the autoparts store... so maybe 2 hours tops?

 

[gpking]

I thought I had a leaking petcock on the Silverado (it happens as we get older). Turns out there was a hairline crack in the plastic of the radiator below the upper hose inlet. It was weeping a significant amount of coolant. This is apparently a common failure on these.

A new radiator was in order. I picked it up new for $119.99 on a Black Friday deal.


Unbelievable story time:

Spoiler

So I lost a J.C. clip for the trans cooler lines when disconnecting (I was taking them off to re-use for the new fittings). I searched the engine bay meticulously, took down the skid plate, looked on the ground, and then I tore my house/garage apart for an hour looking for my stash of spare J.C. clips. Finally, I gave up and decided to clean up my tools a bit and go buy some new clips.
I clumsily knocked a bolt off the air box and it fell down to the driveway. Unbelievably, it must have found the J.C. clip's hiding spot as it fell, because both the bolt and J.C. clip resurrected on the pavement below.
I was in awe at the unbelievable odds of such a thing happening.
... then I unboxed the new radiator and saw it came with new J.C. clips.
J.F.C.

 

[seanpooh]

Polished and waxed the rims.

 

[BrianF]

I may have done a pile of shit hooks in the yard.... may have..... its possible my wife did some as well.....

 

[Blckshdw]

Decided to change my oil a couple weeks early, since I have some other more pressing stuff to deal with. Also changed the sway bar bushings. Those were surprisingly stubborn to get the brackets back over.

Attempted to swap my upper ball joints, and ran into some difficulties. I thought the press kit I was using was incorrect, as the pieces didn't seem to fit/line up correctly. With some helpful suggestions from @littleblazer I ended up using some sockets to get the damaged one out, and new one in. Damaged the section the zerk fitting screws into as a result, so I skipped on doing the other side for now. Figured I had to have missed something somewhere, and started doing some research. Turns out, I was using the press clamp upside down from the way the kit is designed. Which is the opposite of the videos I've seen online as well as the images in GMSI. The jack screw is supposed to point down for the uppers, and up for the lowers.

I had the old joint on my workbench, so went into the garage and took out the press kit again. Flipped the clamp over, lined things up and it would have worked much better had I thought of that sooner. Live and learn I guess. Have a tap and die set on order, will be here Tuesday. I'm off that day, so only 1 day of driving on a dry ball joint. We'll see how noisy that's gonna be in the morning.

 

[Mounce]

The jack screw is supposed to point down for the uppers, and up for the lowers.

In my experience it actually doesn't matter as long as you have supporting adapters or get the adapters lined up close enough. No matter where the screw is, the force is moving in the same 'plane' if the adapters are set up right.

 

[littleblazer]

Fought with the damn brakes. Cursed it. Did an awd burnout.

 

[Sparky]

Was going to change the oil this weekend but realized I had only 5 qts not 6. Good thing I always get the stuff out before draining. Rotated the tires and bought 2 quarts later Saturday evening (truck leaks/burns about a quart every 5k or so, not bad for 216k miles I guess).

 

[Blckshdw]

In my experience it actually doesn't matter as long as you have supporting adapters or get the adapters lined up close enough. No matter where the screw is, the force is moving in the same 'plane' if the adapters are set up right.

That's what I thought too, and why I was getting so frustrated with it. Before I got to the truck, I took some of the adapters out of the case, matched them up on one of the new joints, to see which ones I needed. Thought I was good until I got the steering knuckle out, and the adapters I set aside didn't want to mate up with the clamp as expected. The end of the clamp and the screw's tip weren't even close to the same type of mating surfaces, so certain adapters would only fit (and lock into place) on one end or the other.

The whole time I kept thinking, either these adapters weren't right, something was missing, or the clamp needed to be longer in order to stack them together so they stayed aligned. Never dawned on me to flip the clamp over, cuz I didn't think it should have mattered either. At least now I know.

 

[coolride]

That's what I thought too, and why I was getting so frustrated with it. Before I got to the truck, I took some of the adapters out of the case, matched them up on one of the new joints, to see which ones I needed. Thought I was good until I got the steering knuckle out, and the adapters I set aside didn't want to mate up with the clamp as expected. The end of the clamp and the screw's tip weren't even close to the same type of mating surfaces, so certain adapters would only fit (and lock into place) on one end or the other.

The whole time I kept thinking, either these adapters weren't right, something was missing, or the clamp needed to be longer in order to stack them together so they stayed aligned. Never dawned on me to flip the clamp over, cuz I didn't think it should have mattered either. At least now I know.

I just replaced my uppers and lowers. It was always difficult to make the press kit work, and to get the joints installed straight. The kit needs more options.

 

[TollKeeper]

On Saturday..

On my GMT250 (Pontiac Aztek) - After chasing my Check engine for MONTHS.. I finally got a different check engine code along with the same O2 sensor code I had been getting. It was for a misfire on Cylinder #5. So I bit the bullet, and ordered a Downpipe with Cat, front and rear O2 sensors from NTK (NGK), 6 Double Platinum AC Delco plugs, and a set of wires.

O2 sensors change out went as expected. The front gave no fight, the rear gave a bit of a fight, but I was ultimately successful.

Started changing out the plugs and wires, and everything was going perfect, if not too perfect. Until I got to Cylinder #5, the last one I needed to change. The dealer had performed a tune up about 10-15k miles ago. And I guess the tech felt the need to crack the porcelain, and cross thread the plug on cylinder #5, and not even change the plug on cylinder #1. The crack was causing a arc with the O2 sensor, but it never threw a code, until it did, months later. I had to use a breaker bar to get that plug out, 1/4 turn at a time. IT SUCKED! I wrenched on that one plug for 30 minutes or more, longer than I had on the other 5 plugs combined.

So at this point I am preparing for the worse, new head/engine, etc. I decided to try a thread that new plug in. It went in! With some effort, and sealed. I put the car back together, cleared the codes on the computer, and went out for a test drive. The truck performed flawlessly, and no more check engine light.

I know that more than likely, this will be the last time that Cylinder #5 is going to allow for a plug change. Next time I am fully expecting threads to come out with the plug, if the engine doesnt blow that plug out first. Hopefully I wont have to worry about it for 70-100k miles.

I returned the Downpipe and Cat, and called it a day. My chest is now hurting from wrenching on that plug for so long. I will not be giving that dealer any of my money, parts, service, or even a vehicle.

 

[Mooseman]

Added a pair of load resistors to the LED brake lights as the BCM was not happy and withholding cruise control. Funny that my 02 didn't do that with this same set of taillights. Must be a new feature they added to later years. One wasn't enough, I had to put two resistors. Next will be to figure out why the cruise light doesn't work. Never has since I've had it. It is an LS so maybe it was added post factory. Maybe just needs a BCM or IPC reprogram.

 

[Drec]

I bought a universal catalytic converter for the Envoy and some new oxygen sensors. So a couple of days ago, I jacked the car up and put it on stands. Then cut off the old cat and got the new one in place. So, laying under the car, doing one of my fun jobs gas welding overhead, the cat installation was accomplished yesterday. Then I moved to installing the oxygen sensors; which was easy for #2, but #1 was hard to get out. I ended up cutting the wires and the projection out of the sensor, so I could get a short socket on it and with an impact, a universal joint and a long extension, it came out.

Replaced a couple of headlight bulbs and took it out for a drive today. Still have a two items in the drive cycle that need to clear, but so far it looks good. The mileage jumped up from 12.5 MPG to 17.9 MPG.

I’m still moving and hopefully I’ll be able to get my lifts moved soon. I’m getting too old to get up and down like that anymore.

 

[gpking]

P0171 & P0172 on the Silverado. Time for Intake Gaskets.
(Graphs show idle, then revved up and held at 2k, yikes).


Quite a lot of connectors and stuff to get out of the way to get that sum-b out.


Out with the old, in with the new. No CEL anymore! Only took 4.5 hours including a trip to Advance to buy a fuel line quick disconnect tool after experimenting with picks and a sleeve made out of a beer can, cleaning the mating surfaces, dropping an injector lock clip UNDER the intake after I already bolted it down, and using only hand tools while standing on a chair.

 

[Mounce]

Rear brakes on the Silverado, painted rotors and ceramic pads of course. Factory rotors but had been pad - slapped before I got it. Rotors were warped.

Had noticed the pads were pretty low when I last rotated the tires then heard a squeak once a few days ago and made the decision to replace them. Was gonna put it off till January or whenever but I've got a trip to make on new years and didn't wanna chance it after hearing the singular squeak.

 

[xavierny25]

It's been just gas and go for the past couple of months for the Voy. Until a few nights ago when I went to pick up wifey from work and the power steering line to the cooler busted. I had to muscle it and get it home with out power steering. It's been cold wet and or snowing out so I can't get under it to see what line busted. Hopefully I'll be able to get under it tomorrow on my day off and getter fixed up.

I'm wondering if 1 of those bushings rubber caps from the rack made it's way through the system and caused a blockage and the pressure from the pump made the line burst.

To be continued.....

 

[Maverick6587]

Totally bombed that state mechanic's test yesterday.

That's what I get from not doing enough research to know that the state test is not very similar (at all) to ASE test questions. I'll be studying some more and probably take it again next week.

EricTheCarGuy's YouTube channel has been very helpful as well! I can't stand reading books.

 

[Blckshdw]

First day of staycation, and my plans for the day fell through, so decided to tackle my motor mounts a day early. Skimmed through a handful of threads to see how others did it, to compare to the GMSI procedure. Had a fun time trying to figure out how to get at the upper driver's side nut. Was able to get a deep socket on it, with a swivel joint and an extension, but the angle was so sharp, that trying to turn it, just made the socket pop up off the nut. Opted for drilling a hole through the PCM bracket.

After getting all 4 nuts off, started with the passenger side mount, since I know that one is bad for sure. Oddly enough, the passenger side mount was the more troublesome of the 2. Got it out OK, and as you can see, compared to a new one, it was shot.





Getting the new one in, was a whole other issue. Couldn't get enough clearance. (and this is supposed to be the easy side? ) Lifted the engine a bit more, and next thing I know, it's picking the whole front end up. Let it back down some. I needed about 3/4" of clearance to get the top post set after getting the lower post and tab in place. I remember some posts where people cut off the top, so I went that route. Threaded the nut on, and ended up cutting off the top couple of threads to get enough clearance.




Got that one in, and moved over to the driver's side. This is where the comedy begins. As tight as it was fishing the passenger side one out, I figured since there was less room for the engine to rotate due to the intake manifold, I'd need to at least loosen the bracket bolts to get me enough clearance for removal, and help more with installing the new one.

Had the driver's side up on a jack stand, wheel off. The spring's coils are in the way to get a socket on them, and I don't have a 21mm wrench. OK, let's take the strut out... Undo the top mount nuts, and the yoke nut, but the damn thing won't budge. Seriously? For kicks and giggles, rolled under the truck to see how much room I had to work with, and I was able to get the mount out with just some wiggling. Cut off the top of the post for this one too, and was able to get it in place. Whew boy was that a relief, I was preparing for a headache that didn't come (just yet)

Here's both the old mounts, rubber is split and cracked in a lot of places, most notably around the top post. I assume that additional amount of play, is where the vibrations are coming from




Started putting everything back together. Torqued down the suspension stuff, then torqued down the motor mount nuts. I had removed the PCM to drill the hole in the bracket, so reconnected that. I also disconnected the fan clutch, and left it loose in the shroud. For whatever reason, I had a hard time getting the clutch to thread onto the water pump. Took me probably 15 minutes on that alone. After that, wanted to turn the truck around, so hopped in, turned the key, dash comes on but engine won't start. DIC says service brake system. Umm...

Go back and check the PCM connectors, turns out I didn't seat them completely. Gave them a good squeeze, and tightened the bolts down. Didn't really crank on them the first time, cuz I made that mistake before years ago, and snapped one off in the harness. Had to replace it with a machine screw. With that done, backed the truck out, turned it around and put it back in the garage. May go to the grocery store later, but it seemed to idle a lot smoother, as you'd expect.

 

[Mounce]

Added tpms to the Silverado via an external stand alone unit from Amazon. I'm super paranoid about a sudden leak on the road turning into a blowout with the danger of a crash. Sometimes I have to pull over and look at the tires real quick like I'll feel a sway or something and I'm just oversensitive to it anyways.

Nice small unit, directions are poorly translated but it's possible to figure it out. Stuck it in the useless cubby provided when running a single din radio. Will see how it acts and lasts. Has a solar panel for charging but that's kinda blocked in my case so I'll just feed it when it needs it via the included cord. The sensors are kinda ugly but the peace of mind is worth it. Auto on/off.

 

[xavierny25]

It's been just gas and go for the past couple of months for the Voy. Until a few nights ago when I went to pick up wifey from work and the power steering line to the cooler busted. I had to muscle it and get it home with out power steering. It's been cold wet and or snowing out so I can't get under it to see what line busted. Hopefully I'll be able to get under it tomorrow on my day off and getter fixed up.

I'm wondering if 1 of those bushings rubber caps from the rack made it's way through the system and caused a blockage and the pressure from the pump made the line burst.

To be continued.....

Drove it up on to my ramps. Saw what needed to be addressed.

Got on the local bus headed to auto zone and made the return trip with some goodies.
Slipped into my cold weather gear to go all in on the repair. I really did fear that the cooler or pump would be leaking or busted. Don't I look happy to be doing this. Lol
Doubled up or worm gear straps. Thinking now, I should have done the same for the other line since I bought a pack of 4.
Drove it off the ramps, filled the reservoir, lifted it with the jack, got both front wheels off the ground and went full left and then full right a few times till I heard the reservoir scream "feed me" topped it off again. I did a few move lock to lock turns on the steering wheel while it was still in the air, checked and filled the tank 1 more time. Put the front end on the ground and put all my tools away. Drove around the block and made 4 rights all seems good. Drove around again making all lefts this time and everything is good to go. Going to be doing some more driving today so I'll continue to monitor things.

For those wondering if cleaned up the spill on the asphalt, I did! I grabbed some old rags and blotted up what I could and then poured some asphalt cleaner I picked up at auto zone. I'm hopeful that the next couple of time it rains the stains will wash away or be less visible.

 

[Mooseman]

Don't I look happy to be doing this. Lol

You look like you're getting ready to rob a bank! LOL!

I had the same thing happen to me but with the tranny line. It was -30c (-22f) one morning on my way to work one morning and the rubber line going to the aux cooler blew off the hard line. As soon as it shifted into 4th, I lost all gears. Basically did an impromptu fluid change on the side of the road. Man it was cold working on that. Double clamped the hoses and I always retighten them whenever I'm around there. It's crazy what extreme cold can do to stuff.