What did you do to your GMT today?

Mike534x

Well-Known Member
Doing more work to the Envoy before Winter fully hits, been down the past 2 weeks with a bad virus thats going around. Ended up taking the Envoy into the shop this week to have the Front Axle Shaft seal replaced, only costed about $200 which was pretty reasonable. Turns out the seal wasn't the only problem, the UPJ pinch bolt had broke sometime on the trip. The front end was so tight I didn't feel anything off, but sure enough they hand it to me and the end where the bolt usually sits is rusted through and gone (along with said bolt). Shops nearby were out of stock on it, so they bought a cheapo UBJ to steal the bolt from.

I also started noticing the front brakes are squealing when coming to a stop, so I'll be looking into that tomorrow. There is also a fair amount of brake dust build up on the wheels, which is a bit odd. Anyone else experience this with the AC Delco Professional pads? Rotors are Napa Premium front + rear.

Also swapping out the the sway bar links again. The inner bolt on the MOOG sway bar link striped, and the rears are shot (after 2 years). Decided to bite the bullet and ordered SuspensionMAXX ones for the front and rear.
 
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Mounce

Well-Known Member
Oil change on the Silverado, went back to 5w30 maxlife and the usual wix 51522 extended (larger than calls for) filter.

Was gonna rotate tires but brother and nephew came over to hunt for youth gun weekend so I figured I ought not fire up the compressor and impact.
 

Mooseman

Moderator
Got the starter out of the Saab. What a bitch of a job! Had to jack up the engine until stuff on top started crunching and it was still tight. Had to bend tranny lines out of the way and squeeze it through the space between the engine, exhaust pipe and crossmember. New one will go in another days as I was too cold to continue.
 

Mooseman

Moderator
So got the starter in. It was easier than getting it out :wooot:. Engine mount wouldn't go back into the holes on the bracket. Had to use a skinny screwdriver in a hole to move the stud and then lower the engine. Started right up :celebrate:but it now has a tranny line leak :Banghead:. And it's not in an easy spot where I could quickly splice it, oh no. It's right at the fitting that goes into the tranny. Screw it. Later this week, I'll drive it to the gas station with the leak, fill it and then park it in my yard till the spring.

I can't win :frown:
 

Mounce

Well-Known Member
Installed a factory tailgate cap that I scored at the junkyard recently. Hated the plain cap that the previous owner had put on and I actually like the way the factory ones look.

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Double sided body tape is the devil, took two hours to clean it off
 

gpking

Well-Known Member
I replaced the belt tensioner on the Silverado. Very easy job. While looking around, I noticed a puddle forming on the driveway and a coolant leak presumably coming from the petcock that had leaked into the fan shroud, down into the skid plate. It's always something. Fix one thing, find two more things wrong.
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Blckshdw

Moderator
Yanked out the rear interior panels this morning. Needed to pick some stuff up from the hardware store, and a 4x8 sheet of plywood doesn't fit quite right, was a couple inches short on width with them in. In addition to that, got an attic ladder, and some vertical blinds for the living room. Ran a bungee cord through the lift gate striker, and inserted both hooks into the latch. Kept the gate mostly closed during the drive home. :whistle:


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Didn't realize how dirty the panels had gotten, especially the backsides. Guess that's what happens when I forget to close the 3rd row windows and it rains, so gave them a good wipe down before reinstalling.
 

Mike534x

Well-Known Member
Installed the SuspensionMAXX links in the rear, had to get the torch and a few cutting wheels. Managed to get the driver side off, took a bit due to the bolt being seized. Couldn't believe the rear links were shot after 2 years, so hopefully the lifespan on these are better.

After a long test drive, wow. I am very impressed. Definitely better then the MOOGs when they were first put on, so I feel the value already. Also did the front and rear brakes, took out the Delco's and put the Akebonos on. Water pump is developing a slow leak, so I have to get that fixed now after just replacing it. When it rains it pours.
 

Eric04

Silver Supporter
Tiny job that had to take twice as long as it should have. Passenger taillight was out. Bulb was bad. Install new bulb, nope. Order new circuit board. Takes days longer than it should have to arrive. Remove old board today, two pins remain in the connector, flush. Take connector apart and fiddle with a T pin and magnet to fish the damn things out. Reassemble, apply dielectric grease and finally done. Mini rant over, and I know, should've upgraded to LEDs long ago. 😄20191124_164416.jpg20191124_170246.jpg
 

Reprise

Lifetime VIP Supporter
Needed to get a spare tire for the Sierra, with a -1 size change from the 17s I put on from a NBS Silverado 2500. And they had to be load range 'E'. Looked online, and the cheapest ones I could find were about $135 or so.

On a lark, I checked CL, and found a guy selling two used ones in the exact size I needed for $20 (total). Had to drive about 30mi each way into WI to get them, and I'll have to pay to mount them, but still a helluva lot cheaper than paying for a new tire I'd probably never use (the ones on the truck are brand new). Legal (barely) tread, no sidewall / belt issues, never patched, even wear, and mfg'd in 2015. Put a double sawbuck in the guy's hand, and into the bed they went.

When I got home, I put the truck in park and let it idle for a couple of minutes - and the ABS & traction control lights lit up (along with a few corresponding 'bongs' from the DIC (but no message on the dash). The same thing happened yesterday, when I made the jaunt to the auto parts store for the trans filter. Key off / restart, and the lights are gone. And they only show up after the truck has been driven, put into park, and left idling for a minute or two. Weird.

I'm leaning toward the VSS or maybe a hub (but I have rear hubs, instead of fronts). Braking is fine, otherwise. Will hook up the Tech2 tomorrow and run diags.
 

Mounce

Well-Known Member
Gave the Silverado a few loud grumpy sighs to show my disappointment.

Have replaced everything in the front end a while back and still have a squawk coming from the new moog lower control arm bushings, they squeaked the day I put them in. ONLY THE PASSENGER SIDE. It's driving me nuts. Sometimes a proper douche of silicone spray will quiet them or they'll quiet by themselves occasionally. Gave the fasteners full beans with the impact today hoping they had came loose (gave 1/16 of a turn so maybe?) along with another douching. No luck.

Oh, and filled it up, averaged 13.7 smiles per gallon.

Edit: the old factory ones squeaked the same, so I replaced them thinking it would fix it.
 

Reprise

Lifetime VIP Supporter
From above... Tech2 reported two speed sensor codes (both for left front) - C0227, C0225 (erratic signal, missing signal). Got a new ACDelco replacement ordered from Amazon; it'll be here on Wed. Also, as of today, the lights are constantly on now, and reappear immediately after clearing with the T2. Was kinda wondering when the codes would trigger 'full-time'. Didn't take long.

As I recall, when I reconnected the harness for that one sensor a couple of weeks ago, it wasn't staying in the frame rail with it's little 'christmas tree' (although the other retainers along the length of the harness were fine). Hopefully, I don't remove the tire to see the harness ripped out of the connector. Still, glad to find out it was a front sensor, rather than the rear one(s).

On a side note... while I'm glad I have the Tech2, it's definitely a pain to scroll back & forth through all those nested menus. And I do have a question, which I'll post in the appropriate subforum.
 

TollKeeper

Well-Known Member
I had parked the Envoy 2 weeks ago so I could get the new Buick tested and properly broke in. Then over the weekend the wifes car broke. So I pulled the Voy in the garage, put the new Drivers Door Check, and broke the support bracket for the door handle pull. Then put my new tires/rims on. Pulled the wifes now broken car out onto the street, pulled the Buick into her parking spot. And called it a night.

While I was out over the weekend getting some smaller parts to finish the repairs on the Buick, I ran across the same year Buick Rendezvous in the salvage yard. I was tempted to scavenge all the hard external parts off it, but decided against it. Not going to become more of a pack rat! It was hard to resist thou. The engine on this car is a 1 year production only! However, it did have the very hard to come by Navigation unit. I pulled it, and the rear hatch license plate finish panel, and rear hatch pull handle.

Got home tested out the Nav unit, and it works flawlessly. SCORE! Now I just need to get a hold of a Tech2 or a Autel 908s to clear out the VIN.
 
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Redbeard

Well-Known Member
Replaced right side brake light circuit board and placed new plug that inserts into the circuit board. Brake light stopped functioning with power to the board and when the board was disconnected two of the prongs also came out of the circuit board. :sadcry: Burn marks were on the Ground Wire. Go figure. Back up and functioning properly.
 

2001ZR2

Well-Known Member
Based on reading the above I am a slacker but my two GMT 360s are running solid. I did finally do the rear brakes on my son's Trailblazer. I had to get it done as he is leaving to go back to college today.

The rotors had corrosion and pitting on them when we brought but that soon cleared up. I did measure the old rotors and they were at 18.57-18.58 mm on a 18.50 minimum. I think someone changed the pads and reused the rotors at some point.

All back together and ready to roll.
 

littleblazer

Gold Supporter
Just finished up the trans cooler lines on the escalade. Was actually really straight forward... took 3.5 hours with a lunch break and 2 trips to the autoparts store... so maybe 2 hours tops?
 

gpking

Well-Known Member
I thought I had a leaking petcock on the Silverado (it happens as we get older). Turns out there was a hairline crack in the plastic of the radiator below the upper hose inlet. It was weeping a significant amount of coolant. This is apparently a common failure on these.

A new radiator was in order. I picked it up new for $119.99 on a Black Friday deal.
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Unbelievable story time:
So I lost a J.C. clip for the trans cooler lines when disconnecting (I was taking them off to re-use for the new fittings). I searched the engine bay meticulously, took down the skid plate, looked on the ground, and then I tore my house/garage apart for an hour looking for my stash of spare J.C. clips. Finally, I gave up and decided to clean up my tools a bit and go buy some new clips.
I clumsily knocked a bolt off the air box and it fell down to the driveway. Unbelievably, it must have found the J.C. clip's hiding spot as it fell, because both the bolt and J.C. clip resurrected on the pavement below.
I was in awe at the unbelievable odds of such a thing happening.
... then I unboxed the new radiator and saw it came with new J.C. clips.
J.F.C. :Banghead:
 

Blckshdw

Moderator
Decided to change my oil a couple weeks early, since I have some other more pressing stuff to deal with. Also changed the sway bar bushings. Those were surprisingly stubborn to get the brackets back over.

Attempted to swap my upper ball joints, and ran into some difficulties. I thought the press kit I was using was incorrect, as the pieces didn't seem to fit/line up correctly. With some helpful suggestions from @littleblazer I ended up using some sockets to get the damaged one out, and new one in. Damaged the section the zerk fitting screws into as a result, so I skipped on doing the other side for now. Figured I had to have missed something somewhere, and started doing some research. Turns out, I was using the press clamp upside down from the way the kit is designed. Which is the opposite of the videos I've seen online as well as the images in GMSI. :dunce: :duh: The jack screw is supposed to point down for the uppers, and up for the lowers.

I had the old joint on my workbench, so went into the garage and took out the press kit again. Flipped the clamp over, lined things up and it would have worked much better had I thought of that sooner. Live and learn I guess. Have a tap and die set on order, will be here Tuesday. I'm off that day, so only 1 day of driving on a dry ball joint. We'll see how noisy that's gonna be in the morning.
 

littleblazer

Gold Supporter
Fought with the damn brakes. Cursed it. Did an awd burnout.
 

Sparky

Moderator
Was going to change the oil this weekend but realized I had only 5 qts not 6. Good thing I always get the stuff out before draining. Rotated the tires and bought 2 quarts later Saturday evening (truck leaks/burns about a quart every 5k or so, not bad for 216k miles I guess).
 

Blckshdw

Moderator
In my experience it actually doesn't matter as long as you have supporting adapters or get the adapters lined up close enough. No matter where the screw is, the force is moving in the same 'plane' if the adapters are set up right.
That's what I thought too, and why I was getting so frustrated with it. Before I got to the truck, I took some of the adapters out of the case, matched them up on one of the new joints, to see which ones I needed. Thought I was good until I got the steering knuckle out, and the adapters I set aside didn't want to mate up with the clamp as expected. The end of the clamp and the screw's tip weren't even close to the same type of mating surfaces, so certain adapters would only fit (and lock into place) on one end or the other.

The whole time I kept thinking, either these adapters weren't right, something was missing, or the clamp needed to be longer in order to stack them together so they stayed aligned. Never dawned on me to flip the clamp over, cuz I didn't think it should have mattered either. At least now I know.
 

coolride

Well-Known Member
That's what I thought too, and why I was getting so frustrated with it. Before I got to the truck, I took some of the adapters out of the case, matched them up on one of the new joints, to see which ones I needed. Thought I was good until I got the steering knuckle out, and the adapters I set aside didn't want to mate up with the clamp as expected. The end of the clamp and the screw's tip weren't even close to the same type of mating surfaces, so certain adapters would only fit (and lock into place) on one end or the other.

The whole time I kept thinking, either these adapters weren't right, something was missing, or the clamp needed to be longer in order to stack them together so they stayed aligned. Never dawned on me to flip the clamp over, cuz I didn't think it should have mattered either. At least now I know.
I just replaced my uppers and lowers. It was always difficult to make the press kit work, and to get the joints installed straight. The kit needs more options.
 

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