Loading it up to take stuff to the farm for last weekend of deer season. Bunch of jugs of water since the main system is winterized and some cooking apparatus to have some people over in evenings and enjoy some tasty treats.
Just a quick note ... brake fluid boils in the caliper and creates a vapor space. That vapor space is what causes the extremely "spongey" brake feel. It also dramatically decreases heat transfer to the fluid. So what happens is the heat boils the fluid which creates the vapor space pushing fluid backwards in the line (and away from the heat). The vapor remains until it drops below it's condensation point (which takes forever since it's in contact with the heated portion of the caliper). While the vapor space exists, if the brakes are applied it compresses the gas in the vapor space (whereas the fluid is not compressable) which makes the feel "spongey" and the pressure inside the caliper no longer gets high enough to push the piston to the pad with any meaningful force - thus, you get a loss of braking. If you've boiled brake fluid, do a brake flush.Another note from the new to me 9-7x troubleshooting, that I just could not leave out because I laughed about for a little bit and still find it very amusing as I'm writing this.
The guy said he was an ASE mechanic... After I fixed the UCA I took it for a little test drive down the road a few miles. Got back into the driveway to hear a boiling noise and immediately remembered @TequilaWarrior's post about how he boiled brake fluid.
On inspection of the master cylinder to see if the fluid was boiling. I notice that this ASE mechanic had placed a plastic bag in between the cap and the mastery cylinder. The cap does not catch, to stop turning.
I didn't have time to look and see if the cap itself was broke or the master cylinder. So, I have to figure that out as well. My guess with my luck is it's the master cylinder and someone probably tightened the cap too tight and broke it.
Nice find! I'm not familiar with those wheels. Maybe from a Rainier? They do look nice on it. Keep an eye on the infamous rust on the front of the hood. Look for my thread on fitting aftermarket HID ballasts as the originals are oh so expensive if they need replacement. Oh, and get a tune!Found a deal I could NOT pass up on! 2007 9-7x 5.3 with 230k miles on it for $850.
I luckily found a decent 9-7x hood at the junkyard a few weeks ago that I've been working on getting it rust free and painted, now I can add a bumper cover to that paint list. I found your HID thread, thanks! I waited until I got home to really "give it some gas", that 5.3 really has some power with AWD! I'll either get a hold of limequat or play around with HDTune.Nice find! I'm not familiar with those wheels. Maybe from a Rainier? They do look nice on it. Keep an eye on the infamous rust on the front of the hood. Look for my thread on fitting aftermarket HID ballasts as the originals are oh so expensive if they need replacement. Oh, and get a tune!
Thank you for the detailed explanation! Honestly, I'm not 100% sure it was the brake fluid, just fairly sure. The brakes are very light/spongy. I could feel the boiling coming from the front left floor board. I assumed I was feeling the boiling in the brake lines.The boiling you heard - unless you had a spongey brake pedal - was most likely engine oil, but possibly transmission fluid, especially if you are missing the heatshield from your exhaust manifold or catalytic converter. The noise you heard, if it was "percolating" type noise, is one I've heard and each time it came down to engine oil for me.
I know you had replied to my thread regarding brake flush so you're more than likely already aware of the lessons I learned the hard way. Also, I was surprised at the improvement of my transmission after my tranny fluid flush - the hardest part of which was knowing when to stop as I didn't have a graduated container. Good luck.Thank you for the detailed explanation! Honestly, I'm not 100% sure it was the brake fluid, just fairly sure. The brakes are very light/spongy. I could feel the boiling coming from the front left floor board. I assumed I was feeling the boiling in the brake lines.
I do plan to swap out the master cylinder and do a complete brake fluid flush this weekend. The plan is to flush as many fluid systems I can this weekend. Transfer case and differentials are 2nd priority to the brake fluid and and engine oil. I might be able to get to do the transmission and coolant. I'll probably find something in horribly wrong along the way and only get the brake fluid and engine oil changed though.
The wiring is there but only to the underhood connector near the fuse box. They terminate there with the corresponding wiring to the sensor on the other side of the connector is missing. You could just chop the two wires there and make your own wiring to the sensor or do like I did and take the two wires with its pins from the connector from a junker so it's like stock. We already have a couple of writeups on this for both methods:The TrailBlazer celebrated its 17th birthday last month. (It needs another ignition switch soon).
I hit the pick-a-part for some goodies for the Silverado - connectors to splice in so I can hook up my 2nd gen towing mirrors, and an electrochromic mirror with temp and compass ($10)!
It's doing interior temp duty right now until I figure out where the hell the existing sensor wires go (it reads 0 degrees on the factory wiring, so I know there is no sensor on the other end).
View attachment 92625
The wiring diagram makes it seem like the wires run all the way to the non-existent sensor location (hey, maybe the connector is there). I'm not looking forward to tracing these out so I'm probably just going to run my own wires once I realize disassembly of the front clip takes more than 5 minutes of effort.
View attachment 92626
U-pull yard is your friend in this instance and may be the only choice as I have heard that these are not available new.I closed the back hatch after throwing out the garbage, got in the car and upon closing my drivers door heard a terrible noise.
My rear glass shattered into a thousand pieces.
And my comprehensive has a $500 deductible.
I will chalk it up to "What did my Trailblazer do to me today?"
I hope so. The few wrecked examples I saw were missing any trace of it.It's probably right near the top of the grille, in front of the radiator.
Cool, I'll see if this is also applicable on the Silverado. I'm kicking myself for not ripping open the harness further to see where they went...The wiring is there but only to the underhood connector near the fuse box.