What did you do to your GMT today?

Mooseman

Moderator
I used some red loctite on that small bolt.
Very good idea. I have experienced that bolt backing out first hand on the Saab a few years ago (not my doing, I hadn't even opened the diff yet)

Although I would have used blue because red may be next to impossible to remove without heat. Apparently the new orange is in between red and blue and doesn't need heat to release.

I just drove the TB to Costco, gassed 'er up there, then dropped off a donation of some old clothes at Value Village. It's still doing that squealing noise in the rear. Gonna have to tackle that soon. It's annoying to me and anyone within earshot.
 

BrianF

Well-Known Member
Ya I torqued her in good. Just a dab of loctite was used. If there is a next time, the location of the threads will make it easy to hit with the torch and hopefully release that little bastard.

I didnt have any loctite on hand and that's all my buddy had kicking around. Beggars cant be choosers. This is the first time in years, many years that i actually used the stuff.
 

gmcman

Well-Known Member
Removed the StopTech stainless brake line for the OE AC Delco lines for the TBSS calipers. I'm more comfortable with the factory mount and the OE lines don't appear to be as limited in travel. Also have a provision for the ABS sensor clip.

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Maybe the TBSS has a larger turning radius, but the stainless lines seemed to be pulled a bit too tight for my liking.
 

gmcman

Well-Known Member
Replaced the original 18YO master cylinder....wow, what a difference.

I had a good pedal before, could lock up the brakes albeit slightly soft. Now it's a very linear feel, no longer have to noticeably increase pressure on the pedal when coming to a stop. Can't believe I waited this long.

I will chalk up the much improved braking with the addition of all new brake hoses, but this was icing on the cake. If you have an old master cylinder, I would highly recommend a new one.
 

Mooseman

Moderator
Went to the shop with the Saab to get the set of used tires I picked up last fall installed. They couldn't take me right away so I went to Costco to gas er' up. Got there and I could smell hot brakes. Check the wheels and the right front was hot. Damn. Probably the same problem I had with the left with the caliper that wouldn't release completely a couple of years ago.. Get the tires installed and take it home. The pins and pads were fine so the caliper is done. call and confirm the local parts house had one in and head down to pick it up with the old core to compare just in case one for the smaller brakes is in the box. Took the pins out and added more lube as the rebuilder was stingy. Install it and put back the old pads (they're new ACDelco Pro from last year). Wifey assisted with bleeding and done. Checked the other side and it was fine.

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Since it was hot and the A/C cycled, pulled out the gauges and saw it was low. Added a couple of cans. Nice and cold. So the Saab is ready for towing duty.
 

aaserv

Well-Known Member
Finally got the Bilsteins in last week. Now I cant find a shop to put them on. Every shop worth a damn around here has all the work they can handle right now with just over heating and AC problems. And then when you tell them you have you have your own parts your quickly shown the door...Only 1 shop said they would do it at all.........in September!! My buddies shop will do it but hes had a huge turnover in employees and now none who speak English and they dont want anyone watching...That aint happening either. Every bolt put on with an air wrench, not a torque wrench in sight. When I get work done its my way or no way.....Ill find somebody, Im in no hurry.....

Decided to change the window motor today since it was under 90 degs for the 1st time in a long time....Didn't go as planned. I changed the front passenger side a few months ago with the 1 from my SWB parts car....took 20 mins. Rear passenger side though is completely different....Doesnt look like it at all. Mounts are in different places, motor is upside down. Thought i might could swap motors and cables but their not the same either...As usual......Im shocked!!IMG_20200718_200043083.jpg
 

Mounce

Well-Known Member
And then when you tell them you have you have your own parts your quickly shown the door
Huh, the shop I work at likes byop labor jobs because it pays better (costs more). As long as it's nothing silly they tend to get right in if an opening is available. Guess it's different everywhere.

Blew the soot out of the Silverado a few times today as if it ever has time for any to settle between the usual Italian tuneups. Hit 150k this week, still purring away. 3 more payments and she's paid off. Took it through a car wash yesterday, first wash its had in months embarrassingly. Of course it rained 4 or 5 times today.
 

Mektek

Well-Known Member
Removed an ass indentation. :eyebrowhuh:
Under certain lighting conditions it was visible right in the middle of the hood. Two half moon shaped indentations where someone sometime must have sat - not realizing that the thin sheetmetal of the newer GMT cant take the weight of a person's rear end without damage.:nono:
I had to remove the hood insulation and insert several styrofoam blocks in between the sheetmetal and the bracing underneath to push the sheetmetal up to a normal position. And a few blows with a rubber mallet did the final adjustment.
I had a girl sitting on the hood of my old 90 Nissan Pathfinder without damage. Maybe the one that sat on my TB was fatter?:laugh:
 

gmcman

Well-Known Member
Out with the old, in with the new. Good riddance to that stock hoist.

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Also cleaned up some surface rust above the spare tire. The receiver hitch and the cross brace in front of the hitch will need more attention later.

I started to wipe the area near the ground strap with acetone but the original undercoating, whats left of it, didn't like that as expected, hence the slight wrinkling.

Screenshot_20200726-134021_Gallery.jpg

Also cleaned up the frame rails last weekend, did both the frame rails and above the spare tire with some wire wheel cleaning and sanding pads.

Used the trusty rustoleum rusty metal primer for both areas, then topped with black enamel. Wish I used flat for both but no big deal, satin on the frame has a bit of sheen to it.

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aaserv

Well-Known Member
The Jinx continues to earn her name at every turn. After buying struts, mounts, window motor and a few other things from Rock Auto they announce a nice discount for members literally 1 day afterwards....lol
Got the window motor in and it works great.
Looks like the guy i got the fan clutch from was just BS'ing about replacing it. Not a word or a tracking number since saying he'd ship a replacement out asap a week ago. Came up with a an idea to switch to the non electric fan, strap this elcheapo on to the side of the battery, leave it wired up. Run the later model fan clutch and the computer wont even know the difference . I do want to have lime-swap reprog the computer but id prefer to wait until Ive replaced the cam and Im months probably away from that.
Still done nothing on the wont't start issue or had the struts replaced. Blaming it on the Fan Clutch prob but the truth is Im seriously lacking motivation....
 

Mooseman

Moderator
Came up with a an idea to switch to the non electric fan, strap this elcheapo on to the side of the battery, leave it wired up. Run the later model fan clutch and the computer wont even know the difference .
That probably wouldn't work. The PCM will likely throw a code that the fan speed is out of whack. There are codes for fan speed too high and too low. Low speed doesn't come up often but a 0 RPM reading would likely trigger it.
 

HARDTRAILZ

Moderator
Few days ago it got new front hubs and rotors. Had somehow gotten a bit of warp to one of front discs a long while back and just dealt with it. So nice not to have a shimmy at every stop.
 

BrianF

Well-Known Member
Contemplating working on the Trailblazer... I need to finally get around to cleaning that last chassis ground in hopes of clearing that brake warning light on the dash. That and I picked up some of that freeze out stuff to work on the stuck O2 sensor. We are finally in some real hot weather and the bugs are out in force. Almost cant wait for winter...
 

Matt

Silver Supporter
AC replacement complete. I wanted to start last night but I forgot the o-rings and PAG, so I got them instead of starting. Took about 30 minutes to do the dryer and orifice tube. I ended up using a hooked pick to get the tube out because the needle nose pliers couldn't grip it enough to hold on. Took out the battery, belt, alternator and idler pulley to finally get at the compressor..abount 1 hours work.

Then I was pharked. The stud in the old compressor has to come out and get put in the new one. I didn't have a second nut with the right pitch to do the 2 nut removal method so I borrowed my neighbours car and went and bought a stud extractor. One hit with the impact and it was off. New seals and o-rings where they need to be, put in about 4oz of PAG (the new compressor had 3oz in already), spilled about 1oz getting the compressor in and started to put everything back together. Took about 6 hours and 3 new scars all told.

I went out to my mechanics place and we pulled a vacuum, let it sit at that and it had no leaks! So, recharged and let it rip. He put a probe in the vent and we saw a nipple hardening 34° coming out when the AC was set on 60° with the fan going full blast. The ride home was most comfortable.
 

BrianF

Well-Known Member
I cleaned the last chassis ground that is related to my brake light. It was rusty as hell, cleaned it up and....... no dice. I will try using some electrical wire next time and check alternate grounds. Will see where this goes.

I then had the engine nice and hot and tried the freeze out on the O2 sensor. I think... possibly that the sensor started to turn but due to angles, my anger, the socket began to spin on the sensor. I then did my proprietary drop of the socket and had to fish around underneath to find it.
 

MRRSM

Lifetime VIP Supporter

Mooseman

Moderator
Get a 21mm deep impact socket and cut a slit for the wire (if you need to). It's just a little tighter than the standard 7/8 sensor socket. Always worked for me.
 

BrianF

Well-Known Member
I will send a pic maybe later. It's just a deep 3/8 drive socket with the usual slot in it. I think I may look at one of those crows foot style. That should get me clearance with the ratchet and put it on the same plain as the hex head. I may just try and attack it again tonight.

I have change a few sensors over the years but none this bad, although none as awkward. Hell the original one on my 1993 c1500 was a breeze.
 

Sparky

Moderator
i remember using a big honking pipe wrench on the upstream sensor on my old 02 TB to get it out. Somehow the manifold threads didn't get totally ruined because I was able to put a new sensor in it. I had to do it that day as the sensor died on the road home (about stalled the engine when it suddenly flatlined the output) and I had to get to work the next morning!

The best thing I've done to get stubborn sensors out was spray with PB, let it soak, heat it up with some engine running, let it sit, repeat over a couple days. Did that on a co-worker's truck a few years ago and the sensors went from not budging at all to coming out using only a standard box wrench with another hooked through for initial break free leverage.
 

Mike534x

Well-Known Member
Made attempt #1 at dropping the valve body, managed to get the 1-2 accumulator swapped with the Sonnax Pinless one. It was a good thing too, the original plastic one had a hairline fracture starting at the pinhole. Poor planning on my part, I should have checked the pan gasket. I received the right filter, but the gasket was for a 2wd shallow pan. After driving around for a little over an hour and the incoming rain storm I bundled it all back together and refilled the trans fluid.

The job actually seems easier then the instructions/videos make it out to be. I was daunted at first but once I was face to face with the valve body it seemed like a piece of cake. I'm making attempt #2 next week, a family friend is letting me the borrow a lift in their body shop over the weekend. This should make getting it in and out easier/quicker, and make the job less messy. Would I be able to get away with reusing the filter, rubber pan gasket, and the fluid? Or would it just be better to replace it all again?

While the valve body was a bust for now, I did swap out the throttle body. I've been having erratic idle issues (posted about in the past) and I think I narrowed it down. I found an open box one on Amazon (AC Delco) that claimed to be used but it was new in sealed retail packaging. Score! 60% cheaper then the "new" one. Installed it, and followed the re-learn procedures off the TBSS forum (it works for the 5.3 too!) and all seems good! I would have issues where having the A/C running would cause the idle to dip (enough to sound like it was going to stall out). It was getting worse over these past few months, where slowing down to a stop would cause the idle to drop for no apparent reason. Maybe its a placebo effect, but it "feels" like I gained back a little power/feels much more responsive when getting on the gas. Will be keeping an eye on it to see if the problem was resolved, but so far so good.
 

Mounce

Well-Known Member
Yesterday swapped out the hids lows in the TB for some leds. It's went through many ballasts over the years.. Might have found the source as I left the leds running for a few minutes and went inside. When I came back out they were off. Then would only come on dim and flickering. Touched the ground wire of the harness and they came back on. Had it grounded at a factory ground near the battery. So I moved the two grounds I had there to the negative post with a piggy back terminal. So far okay...

Today took the TB and filled up with gas then ran it through a touch less car wash. It did mediocre.

Took the Silverado to town and picked up 40 pavers to make a landing at the back door porch and some cleaner and a brush to knock the algae off so it'll stop being slick when wet. Has her squatting a little and can definitely tell they're back there when braking, I guess 700 lbs behind the rear axle takes a toll. Brakes have always required a lot of pedal weight, Chevy things.

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Mooseman

Moderator
I received the right filter, but the gasket was for a 2wd shallow pan.
Are you sure you don't mean the filter? That's the only thing different between the two pans. Gaskets are the same. And it's not different between 2wd or 4x4. There was no rhyme or reason why some got shallow pans but most got the deep pan. Make absolutely sure you have the deep pan filter otherwise you could starve your tranny for fluid.
 

aaserv

Well-Known Member
Did my 1st oil change with the new Shell Rotella Gas Truck oil today. Put it in my 4.8L van . Ive only used the Black ACDelco oil filters for years but couldnt find 1 locally so went with the standard blue PF48. Dang thing picked up almost 10 lbs of oil pressure....I know it doesnt make sense but it did. Went from idling at about 32 to idling at 40 and when accelerating it used to hit maybe low 40's now jumps to over 50 with just the slightest reving.. Damnest thing Ive ever seen....not complaining ....but crossing fingers its good and not bad....
 

xavierny25

Well-Known Member
Heard some rattling in the rear so I reversed it on to my ramps. Turns out 1 of the rear end link nuts started walking out. I added some red thread locker to the bolt and cranked it down really tight. I went over all the other bolts but they seemed to be on there really good.
20200802_173206.jpg
 

Mike534x

Well-Known Member
Are you sure you don't mean the filter? That's the only thing different between the two pans. Gaskets are the same. And it's not different between 2wd or 4x4. There was no rhyme or reason why some got shallow pans but most got the deep pan. Make absolutely sure you have the deep pan filter otherwise you could starve your tranny for fluid.
Definitely the wrong gasket, it didn't line up with the bolt holes on the pan no matter how I tried orienting it. I thought I bought the wrong kit at first, so I went to Advanced and bought the CarQuest branded one. The kit I bought was a Wix one off Amazon, all 3 filters were near identical, but for some reason the Wix gasket didn't match the pan. Not sure exactly why as it matched the part number from RockAuto. All I can guess is that maybe I got a kit that was opened and thrown into the "new" pile. I know the shallow filter is smaller without the "stubby" feet on the bottom.
 

gmcman

Well-Known Member
@Mike534x The rubber-like gasket is definitely the one you want. While some topics have been torque-related, not sure if you have an inch-pound torque wrench, but that's a good tool for your trans work.

Double check, but I believe all the valve body bolts are 8 ft.lbs or 96 inch-pounds, and the pan bolts are 9 ft. lbs or 108 inch-lbs.

I use the inch-pound wrench and go around the pan once at about 50 inch-pounds to avoid any deformation of the gasket, then 3 times around the pan at 108 inch-pounds. Never had a leak.

The valve body is more critical, just use a flashlight and look up through the bolt holes to make sure the seperator plate is aligned, will be very noticeable if it's not.
 

Mooseman

Moderator
Must have been the wrong gasket inserted into the filter package because the filter has been the same from 1982 (on the TH700R4 predecessor) all the way to 2013.
 

gpking

Well-Known Member
I had a valve cover gasket leak on the driver's side by #7 when I bought my truck. It finally got to the point where both sides were leaking and I had the "automatic oil change" feature. Just add oil - no draining necessary!

The Silverado never ceases to amaze me how easy and cheap it is to work on. I think I have mechanic's PTSD from years of TrailBlazer maintenance. It took me all of 2 minutes to get the driver's side valve cover off - and I don't work quick!
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Mike534x

Well-Known Member
@Mike534x The rubber-like gasket is definitely the one you want. While some topics have been torque-related, not sure if you have an inch-pound torque wrench, but that's a good tool for your trans work.

Double check, but I believe all the valve body bolts are 8 ft.lbs or 96 inch-pounds, and the pan bolts are 9 ft. lbs or 108 inch-lbs.

I use the inch-pound wrench and go around the pan once at about 50 inch-pounds to avoid any deformation of the gasket, then 3 times around the pan at 108 inch-pounds. Never had a leak.

The valve body is more critical, just use a flashlight and look up through the bolt holes to make sure the seperator plate is aligned, will be very noticeable if it's not.
I've got every inch-lbs I could find written down, I picked up a 1/4 torque wrench from Harbor Freight on Friday. I got as far as the 1-2 accumulator unfortunately. I'm making attempt #2 this weekend/next weekend, our friend is letting me borrow their lift to do this on. Even on the ramps it was still difficult to maneuver around, so I think once its up in the air it'll be easier for me to do. Unless I can find a way to get more lift at home.

Must have been the wrong gasket inserted into the filter package because the filter has been the same from 1982 (on the TH700R4 predecessor) all the way to 2013.
That's what I'm thinking happened too, but all seems well so far. Once I make attempt #2 at getting the VB down I'll be happier to get it done.
 

aaserv

Well-Known Member
Decided to do the front struts myself. Every repair shop is swamped with work nobody wants to fool with it. Local auto parts has a brand new never used spring compressor on rental so Im going for it. Pulling the old 1's off I noticed a big time drag on the right drivers side wheel. After using my 6ft breaker bar to remove the bolts I think I found the sticking point....IMG_20200805_095454692.jpg
 

aaserv

Well-Known Member
Shipping , Tax and OEM Parts.......$250.00 OUCH!!!!!!!!
 

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