Matt
Member
- Dec 2, 2011
- 4,039
Thanks for that. I know that you should replace all 3 but yeah, I'm a bit broke myself right now.
What did you do to your GMT today?
- Thread starter MAY03LT
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Thanks for that. I know that you should replace all 3 but yeah, I'm a bit broke myself right now.
gmcman
Member
- Dec 12, 2011
- 4,673
Reman PS pump. Nice and quiet now, no more whine.
That pretty much wraps up the steering system, I think the only thing left to replace is the steering wheel....
That pretty much wraps up the steering system, I think the only thing left to replace is the steering wheel....
xavierny25
Member
Reman PS pump. Nice and quiet now, no more whine.
View attachment 95165
That pretty much wraps up the steering system, I think the only thing left to replace is the steering wheel....
Did your replacement come with the pulley or did you have to swap yours over? I had to swap mine over when I replaced it a few months back.
gmcman
Member
- Dec 12, 2011
- 4,673
Did not come with a pulley. I caved and bought the removal/install tool for $35. I know I will need it again and wasn't terribly expensive.
Mounce
Member
Stereo upgrade on the Silverado. Swapped out the terrific sounding blown out factory bose speakers with a set of pioneer components. Needless to say it sounds even better now. No tweeter location in door panel, drilled holes in pocket for wires and double-sided taped them inside the door pocket. 6.5 mounted nicely with included bracket.
Also pulled radio and added a level control knob for sub amp. Something I've always wanted to do but never did. Another amazing upgrade allowing me to fine tune the bass on the fly without having to change radio settings.
Picked up a set of pioneer 5.25's for the rear doors, just waiting on harness adapters. Then thinking a set of pioneer tweeters to replace the oem A pillar boys to top it off.
Also pulled radio and added a level control knob for sub amp. Something I've always wanted to do but never did. Another amazing upgrade allowing me to fine tune the bass on the fly without having to change radio settings.
Picked up a set of pioneer 5.25's for the rear doors, just waiting on harness adapters. Then thinking a set of pioneer tweeters to replace the oem A pillar boys to top it off.
HARDTRAILZ
Moderator
- Nov 18, 2011
- 49,665
Yesterday it got the vacuum and armorall interior treatment. Today it may get new hubs and brakes and the exhaust rewrapped where the flange has a little gap.
gmcman
Member
- Dec 12, 2011
- 4,673
Found where the problem originated for washer fluid leaking down my door panel....
Also ordered a new upper seal for the license plate pocket.
Being the original....it's long overdue.
Also ordered a new upper seal for the license plate pocket.
Being the original....it's long overdue.
northcreek
Member
Installed some stainless wheel simulators to dress up the ugly steel rims on the old girl..
Mike534x
Member
- Apr 9, 2012
- 1,019
How hard is it to pull the license plate pocket? I may do mine, I've noticed there's been a bit of water sitting inside the tailgate. I'm not too worried since I fluidfilmed it, but I suspect there must be a small opening where the seal failed.
Topped off the oil, making it 2 quarts into my 70% (1900 mi) oil change. I'm almost positive its a valve seals that are bad, or really gummed up. Still debating about pulling the plugs and doing a soak of the Delco Top Engine Cleaner. I also ordered up a new trans pan gasket. Gotten a little bored with how "firm" the 1st to 2nd shift is (2-3, 3-4 are smooth), so I bit the bullet and ordered a Sonnax 1-2 Accumulator and the Sonnax Pinless Forward Accumulator Piston. I'm hoping this will help smooth that out, I suspect the factory plastic one must be failing and the PCM might be commanding a higher pressure then necessary for the 1-2 shift. I'm still on the fence about getting the entire TransGo Kit. On one hand, I want to do it, and make the most of whatever life I can get out of the 4L60E but touching the valve body has me nervous.
littleblazer
Member
- Jul 6, 2014
- 9,267
New battery. The optima finally kicked the bucket but in its defense it sat dead for 4 months...
gmcman
Member
- Dec 12, 2011
- 4,673
Not bad at all. Pull the trim from around the inside of the liftgate, then the 4 or 5 10MM bolts holding the pocket. Remove the license plate light connector and push through the metal panel.
If the lower stud is frozen, loosen the 10MM nut a couple turns then tap lightly with a hammer.
The lower seal is fixed and not replaceable unless you fabricate something or get a new pocket, the upper is a regular part.
I replaced my separator late around 160K ,had a flare on the 2-3 shift. The plate can give wonky pressure problems when the check balls start pounding the plate. I was slightly uneasy about it also but it's not bad at all. Just make a note where the bolts came from, two different lengths and the larger bolts near the shift mechanism. I would get one from the dealer and go with the sonnax super hold and vette servo, the accumulator pistons, and the two shift solenoids while you're in there. Use guide pins or a couple bolts to line the plate back up, and a dab of vaseline for the check ball that goes above the plate.
I will replace the plate again soon as preventative maintenance, but so far so good.
Mounce
Member
Threw the 5.25s in the back doors. Honestly didn't make much difference, seems factory bose amp must focus most power to the front channels. Ran across lots of people saying it's a waste to upgrade them when researching. I would tend to agree now.
Also had to do a fair amount of trimming on the door skin to make them fit in the plate style opening where a 4x6 is usually recommended. Went with the 5.25s due to better sound quality.
Also had to do a fair amount of trimming on the door skin to make them fit in the plate style opening where a 4x6 is usually recommended. Went with the 5.25s due to better sound quality.
Mike534x
Member
- Apr 9, 2012
- 1,019
How long does it usually take to do that work on the valve body? Assuming that's being careful. I saw videos on it, which didn't appear too be bad. Upside is, I did do the shift solenoids about 15k ago when I swapped in the deep dorman pan and filter. The servo looks like such a pain to install, but its worth it? Also thanks! I noticed the lower seal is the problem, so I'll need to find a matching color pocket to replace the current one with.
Spent all of Saturday doing paint correction, but I'm happy with the results. Used a DA polisher from Harbor Freight with Microfiber cutting, and polishing pads. I managed to get about 97% of the scratches and swirl marks out. Still a little bit on the rear driver door, but otherwise I'm happy with the results. I just need to take care of the roof next, and then revisit the rear door. I'm content enough with the work to wait until its cooler out.
gmcman
Member
- Dec 12, 2011
- 4,673
Never doing it before, lying on my back, to change the plate and accumulator pistons was about 3-4 hours and that was learning as I went.
The vette servo is not bad either and the best way is to loosen the crossmember to let the tail of the trans drop down a few inches. Remove all the crossmember bolts except the two vertical bolts on the drivers side, just loosen them about halfway.
The shifts feel perfect with the larger servo and not messing with the line pressure. The sonnax super hold servo would be a wise choice once you get into that side cover, little pricey but I'm going to add the super hold once I swap the plate again.
The vette servo is not bad either and the best way is to loosen the crossmember to let the tail of the trans drop down a few inches. Remove all the crossmember bolts except the two vertical bolts on the drivers side, just loosen them about halfway.
The shifts feel perfect with the larger servo and not messing with the line pressure. The sonnax super hold servo would be a wise choice once you get into that side cover, little pricey but I'm going to add the super hold once I swap the plate again.
Matt
Member
- Dec 2, 2011
- 4,039
Mounce
Member
It's not printed on them and I didn't bother putting a meter on them. 4ohm seems to work fine regardless.
doing some rust prevention and adding the wheel spacers. thanks @xavierny25 ! getting things ready for the lift just waiting on the bilstein 5100s
Mike534x
Member
- Apr 9, 2012
- 1,019
I appreciate the advice! I'll make a post in the Transgo Kit thread so I don't derail this one. I'm going to check out a few videos tonight, I saw the Vaseline trick for keeping the check balls in place, so that helps with one part.
I got home at 8pm from work and by 1130 I was pretty much done swapping fuel pumps in my 2006 Trailblazer. Well almost done.
A couple of notes. I wish I had access and time to clean all the dried mud out. This thing was a mess underneath. Half the quick connect clips worked, the rest broke one way shape or form. I had to knock dirt out of all of them. Some I managed to fix with galvanized wire, the others I managed to hobble them back together. The tank straps were a pain in the ass to put back on. The rear required the driveshaft dropped and the front required lots of swearing and maneuvering of the jack. One of the electrical connectors required me to break the clip as I did not have good enough view and there was so much dried mud in the way.
Now there was not alot of fuel left in the tank, maybe 10 litres. It made the tank really light but it may be my issue.
On reassembly, everything buttoned up fine and I can hear the pump kick in but no start. I got no fuel at the test valve at the rail. Tomorrow I will add more fuel to the tank and see where that takes me.
I took just a few pictures, they show the amount of dried mud and the fact that it wasn't really that rusty, it was in good shape.
I also need to pop in the new evap canister once I am done.
A couple of notes. I wish I had access and time to clean all the dried mud out. This thing was a mess underneath. Half the quick connect clips worked, the rest broke one way shape or form. I had to knock dirt out of all of them. Some I managed to fix with galvanized wire, the others I managed to hobble them back together. The tank straps were a pain in the ass to put back on. The rear required the driveshaft dropped and the front required lots of swearing and maneuvering of the jack. One of the electrical connectors required me to break the clip as I did not have good enough view and there was so much dried mud in the way.
Now there was not alot of fuel left in the tank, maybe 10 litres. It made the tank really light but it may be my issue.
On reassembly, everything buttoned up fine and I can hear the pump kick in but no start. I got no fuel at the test valve at the rail. Tomorrow I will add more fuel to the tank and see where that takes me.
I took just a few pictures, they show the amount of dried mud and the fact that it wasn't really that rusty, it was in good shape.
I also need to pop in the new evap canister once I am done.
I got the new evap canister installed and no clips broken... as the pictures show, this system was chalked full of dust. The issue is the vent solenoid has no filter, its destined to fail for anyone that sees more than asphalt. As a simple test I used some old pantyhose and made a rudimentary filter system. Will monitor how that turns out.
To give credit where credit is due, I listened to my wife. Enough said. Last night she was the one that suggested fuel level as the cause of the no start. I dropped the vehicle level and tossed in another 10 litres of fuel. I gave it one prime, it had press8re at the rail and she fired right up. Instant restarts and she runs like a top. My wife tested it by pulling the drag in the arena and it never missed a beat. Also I ensured I had the propriety dropping off a test port cap and had to dig around the skid plate to find it.
To give credit where credit is due, I listened to my wife. Enough said. Last night she was the one that suggested fuel level as the cause of the no start. I dropped the vehicle level and tossed in another 10 litres of fuel. I gave it one prime, it had press8re at the rail and she fired right up. Instant restarts and she runs like a top. My wife tested it by pulling the drag in the arena and it never missed a beat. Also I ensured I had the propriety dropping off a test port cap and had to dig around the skid plate to find it.
Installed a TPMS.
Stopped at a garage sale on the weekend and picked up a tpms system that the guy had some problem installing. For five bucks I took a chance. Chinese translated instructions were awful, but kept hacking away and finally got all 4 sensors to link to the receiver.
The external sensors are quite large and I think miscreants would find them targets for theft or vandalism. Also, at high speeds the centrifugal force would bend the valve stems towards the rim. I'm not sure this is a good idea for a permanent installation......
If I like the system I might fabricate a strap to attach the sensors inside the wheel. And maybe install a much larger battery to extend the service life - I'm curious how a lithium cell would be affected by continuous 45psi external air pressure. Of course it's a major PITA to break the bead on each wheel..........
Stopped at a garage sale on the weekend and picked up a tpms system that the guy had some problem installing. For five bucks I took a chance. Chinese translated instructions were awful, but kept hacking away and finally got all 4 sensors to link to the receiver.
The external sensors are quite large and I think miscreants would find them targets for theft or vandalism. Also, at high speeds the centrifugal force would bend the valve stems towards the rim. I'm not sure this is a good idea for a permanent installation......
If I like the system I might fabricate a strap to attach the sensors inside the wheel. And maybe install a much larger battery to extend the service life - I'm curious how a lithium cell would be affected by continuous 45psi external air pressure. Of course it's a major PITA to break the bead on each wheel..........
gmcman
Member
- Dec 12, 2011
- 4,673
This will probably turn into a seperate thread, but went to knock down some surface rust on the frame, little bit of prevent.
Then I found this area on the inside near the muffler.
I'm quite surprised and frustrated I found this now, could have and should have been addressed sooner but that's water under the bridge.
This is mostly on the top radius extending down the inside of the rail. This is one isolated area, the rest of the frame on both sides has mild surface rust, but this will need attention sooner than later.
My plan is to remove the exhaust, loosen the body bolts, loosen the fuel filler neck and basically lift and pivot the body on the front bolts or front of the body mounts, so I can gain about 4-5" of clearance to clean up that area.
I don't know the limitations of welding on a frame, but the idea is to clean that area inside (if poss) and out, then secure a 1/4" steel reinforcement in that area.
I could likely clean that area up.and stop the rust and just continue on, but if all possible, would like to replace what has been lost.
Then I found this area on the inside near the muffler.
I'm quite surprised and frustrated I found this now, could have and should have been addressed sooner but that's water under the bridge.
This is mostly on the top radius extending down the inside of the rail. This is one isolated area, the rest of the frame on both sides has mild surface rust, but this will need attention sooner than later.
My plan is to remove the exhaust, loosen the body bolts, loosen the fuel filler neck and basically lift and pivot the body on the front bolts or front of the body mounts, so I can gain about 4-5" of clearance to clean up that area.
I don't know the limitations of welding on a frame, but the idea is to clean that area inside (if poss) and out, then secure a 1/4" steel reinforcement in that area.
I could likely clean that area up.and stop the rust and just continue on, but if all possible, would like to replace what has been lost.
We took the Trailblazer out for a rip and fill its tank. Code check and there are no more leak codes and nothing to denote the new pump having issues. Runs great.
It was 1/4 of a tank and the damn thing air locked a couple times when first starting to fuel. Well sumbitch. Put a couple litres in and then she filled just fine on full blast. Hopefully she is sorted out.
Then went to rinse it off at home. We had close to 5 inches of rain yesterday and she got quite muddy. Found some sticky, greasy dirt inside the driver side rear wheel. Smelled like gear oil. Great, but this was my own fault. I had found some seepage out of the passenger rear a few years back when changing brakes. I should have just done the seals and called it a day. So I will keep an eye on things, recheck the diff level and plan on changing them.
It was 1/4 of a tank and the damn thing air locked a couple times when first starting to fuel. Well sumbitch. Put a couple litres in and then she filled just fine on full blast. Hopefully she is sorted out.
Then went to rinse it off at home. We had close to 5 inches of rain yesterday and she got quite muddy. Found some sticky, greasy dirt inside the driver side rear wheel. Smelled like gear oil. Great, but this was my own fault. I had found some seepage out of the passenger rear a few years back when changing brakes. I should have just done the seals and called it a day. So I will keep an eye on things, recheck the diff level and plan on changing them.
Mounce
Member
Very similar to the set I have on my Silverado. I'm a big fan because I'm paranoid of having a flat tire. They're actually leaving a mark on my rims from the centrifugal movements you spoke of so be aware.
Well FFS! We roll into the city, 2 hours away and smell gear oil. Park at the store and this is what I find.
Looking at the fender well, not much really came out at speed, just came out on the clover leaf's to get to the stores. I keep the diffs fluid level on the high side so the heat and overfill will exacerbate the problem but also have some reserve on fluid loss.
I guess I will monitor the loss before I leave the city and if it's not to much worse I will risk it home at a lower speed. I will see what napa has for seals and go from there.....
Looking at the fender well, not much really came out at speed, just came out on the clover leaf's to get to the stores. I keep the diffs fluid level on the high side so the heat and overfill will exacerbate the problem but also have some reserve on fluid loss.
I guess I will monitor the loss before I leave the city and if it's not to much worse I will risk it home at a lower speed. I will see what napa has for seals and go from there.....
gmcman
Member
- Dec 12, 2011
- 4,673
Removed the fuel tank, exhaust from behind the cat, spare tire hoist, so I can knock down some surface rust on the frame.
Going to replace the spare tire hoist also.
The fuel pump was replaced in 2013, upon removing the tank I noticed the top of the pump has rusted quite a bit...
So would be wise to change it now while it's out.
Bummer is I even painted the new one 7 years ago.
Going to replace the spare tire hoist also.
The fuel pump was replaced in 2013, upon removing the tank I noticed the top of the pump has rusted quite a bit...
So would be wise to change it now while it's out.
Bummer is I even painted the new one 7 years ago.
Update. Went by a dealer, parts open for 30 minutes more and they had the seals for us. Not bad at 23 bucks each. Quick search showed similar on Amazon but no 2 week delivery time.
On further analysis, no more gear oil spewing out. Looks to be that when I hauled ass through those tight clover leaf's I loaded the seal with gear oil and she couldn't hold it back. I slowed down and drove like an old geezer and she is holding together.
On further analysis, no more gear oil spewing out. Looks to be that when I hauled ass through those tight clover leaf's I loaded the seal with gear oil and she couldn't hold it back. I slowed down and drove like an old geezer and she is holding together.
xavierny25
Member
7k over due but I tackled the transfer case smurf blood.
Mooseman
Moderator
And you're also gonna have to deal with oil on the parking brake shoes. If yours are still pretty good, you might be able to get it out by soaking it in paint thinner for an hour or so and then rinsing it off with copious amounts of brake cleaner. That's if you really care about it. Hopefully none got on the main brake pads.
I am betting it's all over everything. I will soak the shit out of everything when I can get her torn down. Will brake clean it all as well.
xavierny25
Member
Those rear rotors have seen better days for sure.
I feel your pain though I had to do both sides 4 yrs ago on my envoy. I also did the bearings while I was in there since the driver side showed some movement up and down and left and right. Even with the proper tools the bearings where not at all fun to get out.
gmcman
Member
- Dec 12, 2011
- 4,673
gmcman
Member
- Dec 12, 2011
- 4,673
Ouch. Was that a sudden loss of gear oil or was it weeping over time? Did you have low fluid?
Friendly reminder...remember to remove the fill plug first.
Well here is the thing xavierny25, a few years ago when doing the brakes, like 50,000km ago, the driver side seal was showing some sweat. I decided to just monitor.
Last year when I did the e brake adjustment, the seals looked fine. Passenger side barely wept anything and the driver side was fine.
Of course I changed the gear oil this past spring. Looking back, when I had this thing on blocks for the fuel pump, I noticed a trickle of something down the backside of the driver side wheel. Didnt smell anything, assumed it was the dog pissing but in the back of my mind wondered.
Now today's leak was much worse. When I first noticed it, it was dripping onto the wheel. Enough for it to puddle. It wasn't long before it stopped and i wiped it up. No more added during our city driving.
We just stopped 50km out of the city and it seems fine. Maybe a slight mist in the wheel well but not enough to worry me.
Before we left we snagged some gear oil from Cambodian tire and will fix this crap tomorrow evening.
Last year when I did the e brake adjustment, the seals looked fine. Passenger side barely wept anything and the driver side was fine.
Of course I changed the gear oil this past spring. Looking back, when I had this thing on blocks for the fuel pump, I noticed a trickle of something down the backside of the driver side wheel. Didnt smell anything, assumed it was the dog pissing but in the back of my mind wondered.
Now today's leak was much worse. When I first noticed it, it was dripping onto the wheel. Enough for it to puddle. It wasn't long before it stopped and i wiped it up. No more added during our city driving.
We just stopped 50km out of the city and it seems fine. Maybe a slight mist in the wheel well but not enough to worry me.
Before we left we snagged some gear oil from Cambodian tire and will fix this crap tomorrow evening.
Mooseman
Moderator
aaserv
Member
Decided to drive the Jinx to Sunday dinner today. Bout 16 miles round trip. Longest run yet but its been starting everytime and I need to put miles on it. Wanted to listen for door rattling also. Turned on frt and rear AC and headed out. Bout a mile away I wanted to make sure the windows were tight to listen for the rattle, hit the wrong buttons and put the rear down instead... Going back up I hear a snap and the rear passenger falls down into the door...cable snapped Im sure..
Seems to be running fine but I can forget listening for rattles now. Get about a mile from destination and look down to see temp gauge climbing... gets to about 230 or so when I get there..
There for an hour and a half or so...get in hit the switch and NOTHING... O Jeeezzzzzz
Try the jumper box...nothing. Let it sit a half hour and try again...nothing. Then I do something Id never tried before bumped the shift lever and turned the wheel back and forth....Shouldnt the wheel be locked? I try the key while moving the wheel and Ill be damned she fires right up... Alright NOW im pissed.....
About halfway the temp starts climbing again....cut the AC off at about 240 and she drops back down to 210. I dunno what to say about that, its 115 degs here but this overheating problem has been lingering for almost a full year...and like everything else it doesnt do it everytime but does it when I least want it too.
Get home grab a 5 gallon jug of gas...get ready to start pouring it over the roof..........change my mind.....Guess Ill keep trying to fix this S.O.B.
Seems to be running fine but I can forget listening for rattles now. Get about a mile from destination and look down to see temp gauge climbing... gets to about 230 or so when I get there..
There for an hour and a half or so...get in hit the switch and NOTHING... O Jeeezzzzzz
Try the jumper box...nothing. Let it sit a half hour and try again...nothing. Then I do something Id never tried before bumped the shift lever and turned the wheel back and forth....Shouldnt the wheel be locked? I try the key while moving the wheel and Ill be damned she fires right up... Alright NOW im pissed.....
About halfway the temp starts climbing again....cut the AC off at about 240 and she drops back down to 210. I dunno what to say about that, its 115 degs here but this overheating problem has been lingering for almost a full year...and like everything else it doesnt do it everytime but does it when I least want it too.
Get home grab a 5 gallon jug of gas...get ready to start pouring it over the roof..........change my mind.....Guess Ill keep trying to fix this S.O.B.
Blckshdw
Moderator
No, our steering columns do not lock. Safety issue, should the engine shut off while you're driving. Would make for a really bad day if you tried to coast to a safe place out of traffic, turned the wheel to steer, and then it locked up on you.
Mooseman
Moderator
Nope. No steering lock on these.
Seems like a lot of ppl are having cooling problems lately.
Got the Trailblazer on blocks, driver side rear caliper off and diff draining. While that's happening I get to cleaning the rotor and pads. That's until I run out of carb cleaner. Now realizing I should have a full can of brake clean. Oh well I get rained out anyway. Poor thing is just sitting there all crippled up.
The rain stopped and I found half a can of the brake clean. Not enough to finish but that's fine, I will hit the store tomorrow.
Had to pull the main cap to access the small bolt holding that center pin within the spider gears. Seems I didnt have a 5/16th wrench and needed clearance for the 1/4 inch drive.
The C clips were not all that bad with some bent picks and the seals came out relatively easy and the new ones popped right in. The axles were not all that bad to r &r.
The passenger side seal was quite bad. Much worse than when I checked last year. It was on it's way out and seeped enough to contaminate the e brake shoe. I will clean it up before buttoning it all back up. Again, all my fault for risking it out.
Just need to source some loc-tite for that small bolt on the carrier. I never use the stuff and dont keep any around. Then check to see what the torque specs are for the main cap.
Had to pull the main cap to access the small bolt holding that center pin within the spider gears. Seems I didnt have a 5/16th wrench and needed clearance for the 1/4 inch drive.
The C clips were not all that bad with some bent picks and the seals came out relatively easy and the new ones popped right in. The axles were not all that bad to r &r.
The passenger side seal was quite bad. Much worse than when I checked last year. It was on it's way out and seeped enough to contaminate the e brake shoe. I will clean it up before buttoning it all back up. Again, all my fault for risking it out.
Just need to source some loc-tite for that small bolt on the carrier. I never use the stuff and dont keep any around. Then check to see what the torque specs are for the main cap.
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