Matt
Member
- Dec 2, 2011
- 4,039
What did you do to your GMT today?
- Thread starter MAY03LT
- Start date
- Status
Well the green bitch fired up just fine this morning. Only to find that its warming up. Was only -31. Our daily highs are going to be in the 25 range over the next few days. Almost not worth plugging in but at least she works.
Matt
Member
- Dec 2, 2011
- 4,039
Let me get back to you. It will likely be a yes, but need to see what the wifey says.
- Jul 22, 2015
- 2,724
Took the Envoy out of the garage, after installing the new battery & putting a new gas cap on (had the 'small evap leak' code, and the cap gasket was cracked all around; been driving with it that way for a bit.) Figured it was a great time to finally get a new cap, since the code would be erased by having the battery disconnected.) Drove it around on errands long enough to train the ECU, filled up w/ gas... all is running well on it. Even the flaky HVAC actuator fixed itself by the second key cycle 
It's funny how I spend so long in one vehicle or the other, that I forget how it handles / accelerates, where the gearshift is, that kind of thing. Was making a LH turn out of the Dunkin' this afternoon and you'd think I'd just got my license, with how I had to correct course at the end of the turn.
Although being out of the Envoy for awhile makes me appreciate the ride / handling, compared to the Sierra. Almost car-like, in comparison... 
Getting 1st 'real' snowfall of the winter tonight; put the Sierra in the garage, and will lube up the rear hubs over the next day or two. Once the snow / salt dissipates, the two trucks will trade places again and we'll see if the fancy blue grease I picked up stops the noise I'm hearing (not loud, and only when cornering during the 1st few miles I drive it). Trying to 'save' the hubs, if that's where the noise is coming from. Else, I'll prolly be replacing some axle seals / bearings.
Also ordered up some engine gaskets & stuff for the Sierra's next project from Rock, as that will be starting up soon (will have a dedicated thread on it).
It's funny how I spend so long in one vehicle or the other, that I forget how it handles / accelerates, where the gearshift is, that kind of thing. Was making a LH turn out of the Dunkin' this afternoon and you'd think I'd just got my license, with how I had to correct course at the end of the turn.
Although being out of the Envoy for awhile makes me appreciate the ride / handling, compared to the Sierra. Almost car-like, in comparison... Getting 1st 'real' snowfall of the winter tonight; put the Sierra in the garage, and will lube up the rear hubs over the next day or two. Once the snow / salt dissipates, the two trucks will trade places again and we'll see if the fancy blue grease I picked up stops the noise I'm hearing (not loud, and only when cornering during the 1st few miles I drive it). Trying to 'save' the hubs, if that's where the noise is coming from. Else, I'll prolly be replacing some axle seals / bearings.
Also ordered up some engine gaskets & stuff for the Sierra's next project from Rock, as that will be starting up soon (will have a dedicated thread on it).
Eric04
Member
Stopped procrastinating on the front brakes today. New calipers, hoses, pads and rotors. I didn't want to spend the money right now but it is good to have it done.
Matt
Member
- Dec 2, 2011
- 4,039
$ Khalid ! 9130
Member
Well today ws something Had both trucks in 2 different shops doing different things at the same time!!
Got into the transmission valve body for the Yukon, wasn't shifting into 3rd so thought I'd start by the shift solenoids. Sadly that didn't solve the problem so will be pulling the tranny out on Tuesday most probably. More details on https://gmtnation.com/forums/threads/yukon-slipping-transmission.20722/
The Trailblazer has the stabilizer link arms replaced as they were quite worn out. Front end feels much better already and topped up steering fluid. Suggested repairs came in including lower armarms and bracket assembly, lower ball joints, upper arms and the EVAP cannister
Also found myself a shop where I can work on the trucks myself under an ex-dealership mechanic, who is an electrical and mechanical genius. Finally!!!
Got into the transmission valve body for the Yukon, wasn't shifting into 3rd so thought I'd start by the shift solenoids. Sadly that didn't solve the problem so will be pulling the tranny out on Tuesday most probably. More details on https://gmtnation.com/forums/threads/yukon-slipping-transmission.20722/
The Trailblazer has the stabilizer link arms replaced as they were quite worn out. Front end feels much better already and topped up steering fluid. Suggested repairs came in including lower armarms and bracket assembly, lower ball joints, upper arms and the EVAP cannister
Also found myself a shop where I can work on the trucks myself under an ex-dealership mechanic, who is an electrical and mechanical genius. Finally!!!
gpking
Member
The WORST is going from the "old-style" to "new-style" turn signal stalk where pulling the high beams back too far activates them instead of just flashing them. I feel like an absolute doof in my '00 when I go to flash someone and the high beams just stay on blinding them.It's funny how I spend so long in one vehicle or the other, that I forget how it handles / accelerates, where the gearshift is, that kind of thing. Was making a LH turn out of the Dunkin' this afternoon and you'd think I'd just got my license, with how I had to correct course at the end of the turn.
I got a couple projects going this week on the Silverado, might as well wrap them up into one post:
1) REARVIEW MIRROR
I finished up the auto mirror install by mounting the temperature sensor. I ended up just tracing the factory wires to the A-pillar, gave up as expected, and used a free run of wires I got from the u-pull-it to go from there to under the hood, then reamed out a hole close to the factory location for the sensor. Bam, done!
2) SUN VISORS
I didn't like the old-style visors (with no extension to block pesky side-sun) so I picked up a newer set with the plastic piece that extends. They look a lot less 1990s and are more functional now.
Left is new, right is old.
3) TOW MIRRORS
I purchased a set of 2nd gen (03-07) towing mirrors. The new mirrors support more features (like memory) and are supposed to plug into the DDM/PDM with two 10-pin connectors, whereas the old mirrors had less features and plug into a single 8-pin connector. What a dilemma; some splicing was in order.
The new set is power-adjusted, has defrost, and turn signals, so every wire mapped 1-to-1 except for the turn signal which I had to add a new 2-pin connector to support.
I love the look of these mirrors and the visibility is so much greater. I'm really ticking the boxes on my mod list.
Maverick6587
Member
Replaced the rear bumper cover and hatch/tailgate. I had to cut the hatch open to release pressure off the floor/latch, from whatever hit the vehicle.
Also changed the transmission fluid to find that nice little exhaust pipe to be right in the way! That was fun surprise to find. I just left the pan hanging up there on the exhaust pipe and cleaned the pan and gasket sealing surface while it was up there. Swapped out the filter as well.
Next is replacing both the rear wiper and wiper motor.
Also changed the transmission fluid to find that nice little exhaust pipe to be right in the way! That was fun surprise to find. I just left the pan hanging up there on the exhaust pipe and cleaned the pan and gasket sealing surface while it was up there. Swapped out the filter as well.
Next is replacing both the rear wiper and wiper motor.
Attachments
Yesterday..
Drove the GMT250 home from work. I have replaced the ignition switch over the weekend trying to correct this "dash reset". I guess the ignition switch was not the problem. I dont even have a clue as what direction I should go next. The only code in the computers is a COM-BUS has lost communication. I dont have a high end enough scanner to look at a snapshot of what all was wrong. But I do not, and have not, had a check engine light.
Anyone got any ideas?
Drove the GMT250 home from work. I have replaced the ignition switch over the weekend trying to correct this "dash reset". I guess the ignition switch was not the problem. I dont even have a clue as what direction I should go next. The only code in the computers is a COM-BUS has lost communication. I dont have a high end enough scanner to look at a snapshot of what all was wrong. But I do not, and have not, had a check engine light.
Anyone got any ideas?
Took the trailblazer to Calgary this weekend. Averaged 11.9 L/100km on the first leg. Will fill up in the morning and check again.
She is running great this trip and is amazingly nimble in the city. Still love this old girl.
She is running great this trip and is amazingly nimble in the city. Still love this old girl.
So the second leg, which included a pile of city driving brought my average up to 13 L/100km. The last leg was my trip home, 110 to 115km/h and pushing a head/side wind and my average went to 12.8.
Happy to say the trailblazer is still putting down pretty much the same mileage it did when it was young. Nothing crazy but respectable numbers none the less.
Happy to say the trailblazer is still putting down pretty much the same mileage it did when it was young. Nothing crazy but respectable numbers none the less.
HARDTRAILZ
Moderator
- Nov 18, 2011
- 49,665
Found the light meant 0014 code so going to try an oil change.
Replaced thermostat, along with upper and lower radiator hoses. Temperature gauge recently has not been steady verified by my code reader. The last thermostat lasted almost exactly 10 years with the original one dying in the 6th year.
Beacon
Member
The first replacement thermostat was an A/C Delco. This new one is an A/C Delco also and is doing a nice job at keeping temps regular. 
HARDTRAILZ
Moderator
- Nov 18, 2011
- 49,665
Mounce
Member
Noticed the CEL on when I went to leave work. P0161 B2S2 o2 heated circuit fault. Nice. ACD o2's are $30 a pop on Amazon and denso's are $25. Putting it off till I get a home shop job done Sunday then will snag all 4 in the denso variety since that's what comes in the ACD box anyways and swap them all. Hoping that'll be a key to some better idle quality and maybe even a few miles extra per tank once the uppers are replaced too.
HARDTRAILZ
Moderator
- Nov 18, 2011
- 49,665
Let the wife take it to work since we got a dusting of snow and I may need her van for kids later
Last night changed oil, oil filter, and the oil pressure switch. While crawling around in my fender I found that the front passenger wheel is wearing a lot more on the inside than the outside. Most likely my camber is off so I think I need to replace the upper ball joints. While I’m in there I plan to flip and swap the UCA’s and then get an alignment.
As of late, every single ACD O2 sensor I have gotten from Amazon have been knock offs. Be aware! I bit the bullet and just started buying from Advance (for ACD), and NAPA (for NGK/NTK, supplier for the ACD)
Maverick6587
Member
It's going to be a long weekend spent on repairs and maintenance! Going for Diff fluid (front and rear) and transfer case fluid change, rear axle bearings, rear pads and rotors, spark plugs and wires, top engine cleaning, both u-joints on the rear driveshaft, new alternator, and changing the serpentine belt.
I ordered window tint as well but, I don't even know if it will be delivered on time to get to it. I need the front two windows tinted DARK to hide that head-unit. I ordered 5% for the entire vehicle. I might end up changing the front two to 15% but, I wanted to see how dark I could really go in the front.
As I was planning on changing the diff fluids this weekend. I topped them off last weekend and had to use an oxy-acetylene torch on both of the diffs, to get the plugs out! I had two propane torches on the front for about 3 minutes and then stripped the plug head. Had to weld another nut to the head, that wasn't even hot enough to break it lose, so I used the acetylene torch to get it red hot and was finally able to break the plug free. It has probably never been opened before or someone used some extreme red loctite!
I ordered window tint as well but, I don't even know if it will be delivered on time to get to it. I need the front two windows tinted DARK to hide that head-unit. I ordered 5% for the entire vehicle. I might end up changing the front two to 15% but, I wanted to see how dark I could really go in the front.
As I was planning on changing the diff fluids this weekend. I topped them off last weekend and had to use an oxy-acetylene torch on both of the diffs, to get the plugs out! I had two propane torches on the front for about 3 minutes and then stripped the plug head. Had to weld another nut to the head, that wasn't even hot enough to break it lose, so I used the acetylene torch to get it red hot and was finally able to break the plug free. It has probably never been opened before or someone used some extreme red loctite!
My wife took the 360 to town as usual and I loaded up my Evinrude onto the 400. Heading over to a friends place this afternoon for some sled fixing.
xavierny25
Member
Thanks to @Mooseman for sending me out a used replacement door actuator, I got to replacing it while getting laundry done.
My old actuator was stuck in the open position.
***off topic: but my speaker rings are holding up nicely***
Anyway the door actuator replacement had me scratching my head a bit. Seems like the assembly are different from front to rear. I believe the one Mooseman sent me is for a front driver door. Pic shows my original on top with the child safety lock
I tried to swap it over to the replacement but it was a no go.
I was able to remove the child safety lock but it would not go into the replacement lock do to it having a metal bracket riveted in place where I would have slipped the bracket for safety lock.
Since I couldn't get the parts to swap over I just put the replacement in and called it a day for now. The actuator works flawlessly but now I can't have young or dumb kids sitting on that side of the truck. Lmao
My old actuator was stuck in the open position.
***off topic: but my speaker rings are holding up nicely***
Anyway the door actuator replacement had me scratching my head a bit. Seems like the assembly are different from front to rear. I believe the one Mooseman sent me is for a front driver door. Pic shows my original on top with the child safety lock
I tried to swap it over to the replacement but it was a no go.
I was able to remove the child safety lock but it would not go into the replacement lock do to it having a metal bracket riveted in place where I would have slipped the bracket for safety lock.
Since I couldn't get the parts to swap over I just put the replacement in and called it a day for now. The actuator works flawlessly but now I can't have young or dumb kids sitting on that side of the truck. Lmao
Mooseman
Moderator
Sorry about that man. Part numbers show the same for front and rear or I had another brain fart. Or they don't sell a replacement with the child lock. I grabbed that particular front one because that junlker 2008 TB's front door panel was already off. And yours looks nicer than mine and it failed? Geez. At least you won't see it.
Oh, I put some air in my RR tire. TPMS kept bugging me about it. At least now with a DIC, I know which one is low.
Oh, I put some air in my RR tire. TPMS kept bugging me about it. At least now with a DIC, I know which one is low.
Mike534x
Member
- Apr 9, 2012
- 1,019
Been busy with life stuff, so I haven't been around here in forever it feels like haha.
Replaced my ignition switch, I've been dealing with a parasitic battery draining issue these past few weeks. Coming out after a day, or following morning and finding the battery drained or extremely low. Read about the switch doing crazy things, so I figured might as well give it a shot. Picked up an AC Delco one off Amazon and put it in earlier, so time to give it a few days and see what it does. Kept experiencing the Battery, ABS, Brake and Airbag warning lights being illuminated after the battery was close to being drained (took a few very slow cranks before she did kick over without the jump pack). Though when it does this, half the cluster stays off (oil, battery, temp, and fuel) as well as the little indicator from the "PRND" missing leaving the RPM tach the only thing working. If it continues with the new switch installed, I'm thinking the cluster is the next possible culprit.
I tried to air up the spare tire, after noticing it was low. Tried releasing the locking mechanism but it looks like its rusted to hell. Looks like I'll be tearing that out, and replacing it this Spring/Summer.
Replaced my ignition switch, I've been dealing with a parasitic battery draining issue these past few weeks. Coming out after a day, or following morning and finding the battery drained or extremely low. Read about the switch doing crazy things, so I figured might as well give it a shot. Picked up an AC Delco one off Amazon and put it in earlier, so time to give it a few days and see what it does. Kept experiencing the Battery, ABS, Brake and Airbag warning lights being illuminated after the battery was close to being drained (took a few very slow cranks before she did kick over without the jump pack). Though when it does this, half the cluster stays off (oil, battery, temp, and fuel) as well as the little indicator from the "PRND" missing leaving the RPM tach the only thing working. If it continues with the new switch installed, I'm thinking the cluster is the next possible culprit.
I tried to air up the spare tire, after noticing it was low. Tried releasing the locking mechanism but it looks like its rusted to hell. Looks like I'll be tearing that out, and replacing it this Spring/Summer.
How hard do the HD's ride? I try to stay away from Bilstiens as they made my Audi ride very stiff.
Matt
Member
- Dec 2, 2011
- 4,039
You'll notice the difference, but I personally like them way better than the OEM.
fletch09
Member
- Nov 20, 2011
- 1,982
Yesterday, cleaned throttle body, and K&N filter. belief it had been about 50k since last time done.
Filter still dying. had a spare to put on until dry and re-oiled.
Filter still dying. had a spare to put on until dry and re-oiled.
HARDTRAILZ
Moderator
- Nov 18, 2011
- 49,665
Beacon
Member
After a weekend of changing parts, it time for an alignment
Matt
Member
- Dec 2, 2011
- 4,039
I actually washed it for the first time in about 2 months.
Mine is just sitting there. Uses it for my town run today. Once spring hits I have some PM to get done. Oil, check diffs, grease brake slide pins, clean/grease CAD, grease u joints and sway bar end links and rotate tires.
I'm sitting at about 20,000km this oil change index. Need to double check its level when cold and level. Last I checked it wasn't burning any when using some of the thicker 30 weights like Castrol and Quaker State. The Pennzoil seemed to burn and I had to add about half a litre in the full index.
Oh and she needs a wash... real bad. Inside and out.
I'm sitting at about 20,000km this oil change index. Need to double check its level when cold and level. Last I checked it wasn't burning any when using some of the thicker 30 weights like Castrol and Quaker State. The Pennzoil seemed to burn and I had to add about half a litre in the full index.
Oh and she needs a wash... real bad. Inside and out.
Drove my little GMT (250) to work, passed my medium GMT (360) on my way out of my street.. Man do I miss driving that truck, with its real 4wd, and more comfortable seats.
Mounce
Member
Oil change and tire rotation for the TB. 150k and still doesn't use a drop of oil. Starting to leak a tiny bit from valve cover but I'm not worried about it lol.
Martyelzz4
Member
Since I put a functioning new pump in my 08 Saab; this fall & winter I found out why my washer tank hold about 3 gallons of fluid... mine washes the lights (when they are turned on & in Drive) mine seem to wash every 4th time both at the start of the wash cycle and at the end of the wash cycle. Thus I can easily go through a gallon a 120 mile trip in crappy weather. Yes, I stocked up on -30°F quality washer fluid.
Blckshdw
Moderator
The company on Amazon that warrantied out one of my reverse cameras, offered me one of their new models and said they'd refund it if I posted a positive review (I heard of that kinda thing happening, never thought I'd be that lucky) My lower camera, installed in the hitch receiver, is pretty old by today's standards, and only has a resolution of like 480p which looks pretty bad on the big HU screen. The one being offered was the same style and size, so I knew swapping them would be relatively easy.
Got the driver's side of the cargo area torn down again, lowered the spare a few inches, since the split loom protecting the wires to the hitch was caught, and started dismantling and disconnecting wires.
After getting the old camera out, and feeding the harness wiring back through the tail light boot, I tried to feed the new camera's wiring harness through it. Ran into some trouble, as the joint between the video and power cables is a bit larger than the previous one. Squirted some lube into the grommet, and that seemed to help some, but it was still getting stuck. The rubber was pretty pliable so I tried to assist it, with needle nose pliers and snap ring pliers, but no joy. What I really needed was a 2nd pair of hands, so the boot could be stretched in both directions at the same time, and I think it would have come right through. But, in a fit of frustration, I tugged a little too hard, and yanked the wire right out of the casing
Gonna email the company and see if they can send me a new cable, but I doubt it. Their replacement policy was for me to buy a new one, and then they refund the price of it. Moved on to disconnecting the old wiring harness from the power distro block I installed. Had to undo some tape bundles, and for one, I couldn't find the lip. Pulled out a retractable blade and started trying to split the tape between 2 of the wires. Had a thought pop into my head "Maybe I should put some gloves on?" But too late, split second later, I slice my finger tip
Hands were already filthy from handling the loom from under the truck, and the wiring behind the tail light, so had to wash those real good, and get a bandaid to try and stop the bleeding. Figured that's a good enough stopping point for today so I can stop breaking things.
Got the driver's side of the cargo area torn down again, lowered the spare a few inches, since the split loom protecting the wires to the hitch was caught, and started dismantling and disconnecting wires.
After getting the old camera out, and feeding the harness wiring back through the tail light boot, I tried to feed the new camera's wiring harness through it. Ran into some trouble, as the joint between the video and power cables is a bit larger than the previous one. Squirted some lube into the grommet, and that seemed to help some, but it was still getting stuck. The rubber was pretty pliable so I tried to assist it, with needle nose pliers and snap ring pliers, but no joy. What I really needed was a 2nd pair of hands, so the boot could be stretched in both directions at the same time, and I think it would have come right through. But, in a fit of frustration, I tugged a little too hard, and yanked the wire right out of the casing
Gonna email the company and see if they can send me a new cable, but I doubt it. Their replacement policy was for me to buy a new one, and then they refund the price of it. Moved on to disconnecting the old wiring harness from the power distro block I installed. Had to undo some tape bundles, and for one, I couldn't find the lip. Pulled out a retractable blade and started trying to split the tape between 2 of the wires. Had a thought pop into my head "Maybe I should put some gloves on?" But too late, split second later, I slice my finger tip
Hands were already filthy from handling the loom from under the truck, and the wiring behind the tail light, so had to wash those real good, and get a bandaid to try and stop the bleeding. Figured that's a good enough stopping point for today so I can stop breaking things.
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