What did you do to your GMT today?

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Blckshdw

Moderator
Nov 20, 2011
10,665
Tampa Bay Area, FL
As far as today goes, drove it to work, and broke out my IR thermometer to check the temps of the wheels and rotors after I parked it for reference.

Why you ask? Well last night, a buddy brought his XUV over during a test drive. He finally got some engine work done, after blowing the head gasket by towing a loaded trailer, at highway speeds, in D and overheating it a few years ago. :duh: Initially he wanted to get some miles in, setup his Torque dashboard and see which gauges I had to compare readings. When he pulled into my driveway, I knew something was wrong, something was burning. Popped the hood, had a look only thing that looked out of place was the coolant in the reservoir was lower than it should have been. While we were standing there talking, the front passenger wheel cap fell off, and when he went to pick it up it almost burnt his hands.

Checked with the IR thermometer, rims were about 240 degrees, and rotors were 280. All 4 of them. :eek: He said it drove fine, didn't feel like the brakes were dragging, but I told him it's likely that could be what we were smelling. Got his Torque setup and everything seemed fine there. After hanging out for a bit, he went to HF on the way home to get an IR gun like mine. Called me when he got home and said the truck overheated. He didn't check the temp in torque, but the dash gauge was pegged to the right, and he had the familiar sound of coolant bubbling in the reservoir tank.

He was going to take it back to that shop anyway for an oil change and follow up, so they'll have their work cutout for them trying to figure out what happened. The shop gave him a really good warranty, so he knows he's covered regardless. :thumbsup:
 

HARDTRAILZ

Moderator
Nov 18, 2011
49,665
I did not do it, but it happened to the truck yesterday. Some girl decided to back up from the gate in the parking lot and cram right into my front pass side. The back of her lil jeep crossover exploded, including part of taillight hitting my windshield. She was almost stuck on the tube of my bumper as she hit hard enough to slide up n sit down on it.

So far my bumper has a twist n minor kink, scrape on fender, headlight is whole, but loose. If I did not have the MDB bumper I think she may have totaled my truck as the tire was turned way out and I think she would have ripped right through a plastic bumper and fender.
 

Mike534x

Member
Apr 9, 2012
894
Attempted to replace the speed sensors, I couldn't figure out how to get "nut" that holds the metal seal in place out. I managed to cover the hole and cleaned up as much of the rust as I could. So I decided to jack up the passenger side, and of course, I go to remove the bolt that holds the sensor in place, and it breaks clean off in the hub. The bolt definitely feels cheap, compared to the one that came off the Timken (driver side). With little to no daylight I could't attempt to extract the broken bolt. So i'm deciding if I should try, or just order another hub and be done with it.
 

Mike534x

Member
Apr 9, 2012
894
Changed the oil on the Envoy, was sitting at 24% @ 4k into the oil change, looked like I was able to push it to 5.5k before needing to do it. Put M1 5w-30 HM in after trying out Valvoline HM which wasn't bad, but I think I like M1 just a bit more. After some quick checking, it looks like its 2 QT's I'm going through every oil change, even with the newer design valve cover.

Also noticed battery acid coating the box/frame near the fender. Took it after work to the shop to have it all looked at, after doing some testing it looks like the alternator is overcharging the battery. Definitely not good.
 
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Sparky

Member
Dec 4, 2011
12,927
Aired the tire up again and went on a grocery run. Was able to snag a few cans of green beans. You'd think the apocalypse was upon us by the way how many shelves are already stripped bare only halfway thru the day :rolleyes:

I still need to take it to the dealer for an SRS code scan and a tire shop to repair the tire leak. Maybe have them put the new tpms sensor in at the same time. Who knows, maybe I'll no longer have any dash lights on soon for the first time in over a year :hahano:
 

aaserv

Member
Dec 1, 2019
408
N of Baton Rouge, La.
2.5 more hours trying AGAIN to install the rack and pinion and get the steering knuckle on by myself. Ive come to the conclusion it is impossible. IF I could get the boot pushed up far enough to see what Im doing, If I could remove the crossmember that is right where I need to put my arms, If i could place my light somewhere that my hands didnt completely block it out, If I could hold the rack up while lining up the knuckle at the same time and do this blind at an awkward angle....If If If If If.....3 weeks now its sat there less than hour away from being back on the road, still up on jack stands with the rack hanging down ....Every time i walk by it I want to scream!!!!!!!
 

Mounce

Member
Mar 29, 2014
13,667
Tuscaloosa, AL
Drove her to pigeon forge for family vacation, all went well.

My leaking shocks are getting bouncy finally. Saw a decent sized crack on the rubber of the trans mount when I changed the oil last weekend, seem to notice some extra vibes after the drive so I'm guessing the engine mounts are getting worn too. I don't blame them, they've had a rough life under my ownership using the throttle as an on off switch lol.
 

mrrsm

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Oct 22, 2015
7,640
Tampa Bay Area
I noticed that the lower cross-over on the "Y" Pipe of the Y2K Truck 5.3L Exhaust is Flatter than a Tortilla on the bottom. I'm thinking having "squashed" Motor and Transmission Mounts might be the reason. @Mounce ...if you do replace all of yours and you use any "Tips and Tricks"... I'd appreciate knowing them. If all of the Mounts are involved...I want to get mine done before replacing-installing the S/S LT Headers and New Cross-Over Pipe and wind up damaging them. TIA...
 

Sparky

Member
Dec 4, 2011
12,927
That is normal. The factory Y pipe has a flat bottom where it crosses over. Mine is flat on my 2007 as well.
 
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Mike534x

Member
Apr 9, 2012
894
Replaced the passenger side wheel hub, the SKF one seemed to be pretty decent as far as quality goes. I sprayed around the wheel sensor and metal gasket with fluid film, to prevent any rusting issues that will cause it to go off again. Unfortunately while that took care of the code for the front right wheel sensor, the driver side is now throwing one. ABS light is coming on/off sporadically while driving, and the only code popping up is C0035. I tried using MAF cleaner and CRC electrical connector cleaner on the Timken sensor to clean it up good as well as cleaned up more around the surface of the hub. As soon as I pulled out of the garage the code for the front driver side came back up. My original plan was to swap both sides with the AC Delco wheel sensors I purchased. I swapped out the Timken one. No dice, so it looks like I'll be needing another hub.
 

Mooseman

Moderator
Dec 4, 2011
25,260
Ottawa, ON
Got her a bit dirty. The road on the family's wood lot was half frozen and half mud. Some spots were rough enough she bottomed out.
 

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BrianF

Member
Jul 24, 2013
1,192
West central Sask.
Well I feel quite neglectful... I run longer oil change indexes on my trailblazer. Usually a minimum of 20,000km that plateaus around 24k. I run decent oil, a capable filter but know to monitor usage frequently around the 20k mark. Well I wasn't. We have piled on the miles, lots of daily driving and many long highway trips. Just added close to 1.5 litres of oil. The level was just off the dipstick.

I have been putting off this oil change until the weather smartened up as I have a pile of things to do once she is up on blocks.
 

Matt

Member
Dec 2, 2011
4,019
Thought about it sitting in the covered lot at the airport in Cleveland.
 
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Mooseman

Moderator
Dec 4, 2011
25,260
Ottawa, ON
Yesterday, took it to the spray wash, in the rain, to hose off all the mud from the weekend. Much better.
 

TollKeeper

Supporting Donor
Member
Dec 3, 2011
8,047
Brighton, CO
Decided I need to start driving it for a bit, to get rid of the E15 gas, and fill it up with E-0 gas.
 

Mounce

Member
Mar 29, 2014
13,667
Tuscaloosa, AL
Drove her home and topped off oil, used 3/4 quart in a thousand miles. Despite my flush/cleanout attempt I still had a lifter get loud for a few minutes the other day. Didn't fully collapse and misfire like normal but got very tappy.

Haven't found too many outside-looking-in positives with the t6 5w40 other than oil pressure runs higher while driving (same at idle) and its staying nice and clean. Will actually peg the oil pressure gauge at wot lol. Which both of those could be attributes to the flush I did too. Oh well.
 

Pygot

Member
Dec 6, 2019
82
RI
Replaced the passenger side wheel hub, the SKF one seemed to be pretty decent as far as quality goes. I sprayed around the wheel sensor and metal gasket with fluid film, to prevent any rusting issues that will cause it to go off again. Unfortunately while that took care of the code for the front right wheel sensor, the driver side is now throwing one. ABS light is coming on/off sporadically while driving, and the only code popping up is C0035. I tried using MAF cleaner and CRC electrical connector cleaner on the Timken sensor to clean it up good as well as cleaned up more around the surface of the hub. As soon as I pulled out of the garage the code for the front driver side came back up. My original plan was to swap both sides with the AC Delco wheel sensors I purchased. I swapped out the Timken one. No dice, so it looks like I'll be needing another hub.
Quick question pertaining to the wheel hub. I have a bad driver hub is it a 32mm for the nut? Thanks
 

Mike534x

Member
Apr 9, 2012
894
Quick question pertaining to the wheel hub. I have a bad driver hub is it a 32mm for the nut? Thanks

I believe mine was a 36mm
 
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Mooseman

Moderator
Dec 4, 2011
25,260
Ottawa, ON
OEM was 35mm. Some aftermarket replacements were 36mm. The 36mm socket will work with both.
 

2001ZR2

Member
Jul 16, 2019
93
Kansas
Got my son’s Trailblazer up and started looking for damage in the drivers side steering. It won’t meet the spec for caster and camber. Wheel hub is still tight and no noise. UCA and LCA match up well with the replacements. The spindle come off with the nut on the lower ball joint. The cotter pin was still there so not sure if this is the smoking gun. Will finish the change out tomorrow and alignment shop Friday.
 

Mounce

Member
Mar 29, 2014
13,667
Tuscaloosa, AL
Used her to haul my roll cart and tools to work since I finally got the promotion.

Then noticed she was tapping pretty bad on my lunch break and tapped even worse when leaving work. Kinda bizarre to me that it's gotta do this on fresh oil everytime, never at the end of the OCI which would make more sense. Gotta do something about these lifters, they're driving me crazy, just waiting for one to eat a cam lobe at this point. Just kept driving and it eventually primed up and all sounded great again.
 

mrrsm

Lifetime VIP Donor
Supporting Donor
Member
Oct 22, 2015
7,640
Tampa Bay Area
Congratulations on your Promotion :thumbsup:...

FWIW... Brian from Briansmobile1 has arguably the most direct method of solving the sluggish-oil thru the Roller Lifters issue for the LS Engines in this video:

 

aaserv

Member
Dec 1, 2019
408
N of Baton Rouge, La.
The Rack is IN!!!!!!!!!!!! Flush the power steering lines, ck the tightness on all the bolts. Put the washer tank and air filter back in and Im ready to fire it up!!! 2 more months MAX !!!! LOL
 

Drec

Lifetime VIP Donor
Supporting Donor
Member
Jan 29, 2018
216
Yakima, Washington
A couple of days ago, I bought a GMT-400. A 1998 Chevrolet 5.7l 5-speed 4x4 truck. It has 167k miles on it. Today I removed the frontend brush guard and the headache rack; which just aren't me. In the next few days, I'll give it a tune up and a new muffler. I suppose I'll have some questions about it in the near future.
 

2001ZR2

Member
Jul 16, 2019
93
Kansas
Finally finished replacing the UCA, Spindle,. Ball Joints and LCA on my son's truck after the wreck.

Still have a noise when driving which I am thinking might be the wheel hub or the CV shaft.

Did find the tie rod attachment point on the spindle between the two was different. The one that was in the wreck looked to be pulled down which makes sense as the tie rod broke.

Getting an alignment tomorrow and the mechanic will give the front end a second set of eyes. I hope he can find the noise.
 

bobo52

Member
Dec 6, 2019
25
st pete
Well last last week I finally fixed the transmission after replacing one of the clips that hold one of the solenoids in (then found lost clip), and replace the NEW park neutral safety switch because I left the part about putting it in neutral first now she purrs and moves. I would like to thank everyone for the help with that one. Plus some additional add-ons like a 3" lift in the front, air intake radio, and wheels. Haven't picked a size yet for the tires, wheels came of a Silverado so 1.25 spacers (hub centric) of course
 

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fletch09

Member
Nov 20, 2011
1,982
Kind of hate to admit this, but gave her a hand job today. Been years since I had, but due to the IL Shelter In Place Order, (car wash was closed) had to do it at home In 40 degree weather. Actually enjoyed doing it. Exterior plus an long over due interior cleaning. Actually gave me a feeling of pride that I did it!9E0B44C6-E36F-4D61-8320-39107A33DB6F.jpeg
 

HARDTRAILZ

Moderator
Nov 18, 2011
49,665
Got the insurance check for being backed into. Will cover everything and I will be able to fix myself, so i gave it a full load of premium fuel and will figure out which of my sets of lights to put back in it.
 

Mooseman

Moderator
Dec 4, 2011
25,260
Ottawa, ON
Went to the grocery store. People doing the "social distancing dance" I call it now. Still no TP. Store put X's on the floor in front of the cashiers to denote how far you have to stay back in the waiting line.

Wife's unable to work as her work's VPN has gone down and is unable to log in. They were supposed to add capacity for more connections but I guess it wasn't enough.
 
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BrianF

Member
Jul 24, 2013
1,192
West central Sask.
So we had taken the trailblazer to Crimetown on the weekend to grab a few things we cannot get in our small town. Was only supposed to get a few bags of alfalfa cubes (supplemental food for pregnant mares) and a couple bags of high fat mare and foal pellets. We ended up getting way more than we planned and filled the whole cargo area. Then we stuffed in a pile of groceries before heading home. That little 360 was starting to feel a bit squirly on the highway with that cross wind.... Anyway I notice today that we have a mouse in the damn thing. So I set a trap for it and hopefully can get the little sonofabitch.
 

aaserv

Member
Dec 1, 2019
408
N of Baton Rouge, La.
Decided to pull a vacuum on the entire power steering system since it had been open for 6 months, i didnt know how long the rack had been open before i got it and I have no idea what condition the fluid that was in the system when i got it was in. Didnt want to get fluid in my A/C vacuum pump so I pulled a vac on a recovery cylinder then used a cutoff freon hose to connect to the steering lines at the rack. Covered 1 line and connected the other then swapped them. Opened the recovery cylinder and it sucked every drop of fluid out the pump , lines and cooler. Dumped that fluid, pulled another vac and then just held the cutoff hose to each hole on the rack and sucked them dry also.
Attached the lines to the rack and tried to fill with fluid but as I had learned earlier the fluid does not flow easily down to the rack via gravity. seems to just stay in the cooler and very little trickles down to the rack. Might take the belt off and try spinning the pump by hand to get some to the rack before I start it up. Kinda wish I hadnt put any in it at all and pulled another vac on the whole system then let that vac pull in the fluid. As it is Im sure the rack is now full of air and it will be even harder to get it out when i start it. Should have put a lil more thought into that step... But fluids cheap and it wont be that much trouble to suck it all out and start over.
Only thing left to do now is tighten the rack mounting bolts to "spec" and put the covers on underneath. Couldnt find my deep 13/16th socket to do it today so a trip to the pawn shop tomorrow is in order.
Finally realized that the vehicle never had a cover over the flywheel on the starter side. I thought I had lost it but I got 1 from the junkyard and theres no way to take it off or put it back on without removing the starter which I never did so the cover obviously was never there. The starter has the fluorescent numbers on it so someone must have got it from u pull it and put it on shortly before i bought the car. Guess Im going to back the starter out and slip the cover on. Hopefully that doesnt turn into a disaster.
Looking like good weather all week so hopefully by Saturday Im ready to put the battery back in it and see what happens. F'n Corona is really skyrocketing here ( Im about 50 miles N of New Orleans) so I have no idea from day to day what Im going to do the next. 4 days ago there were less than 400 cases in my area today its over 1200 w 34 dead. Im getting a little worried to put it mildly......
 

Mooseman

Moderator
Dec 4, 2011
25,260
Ottawa, ON
@aaserv , you can bleed the rack by jacking the front end and turn the wheel lock to lock multiple times without running the engine. I've used this method and works well to get most of the air out.
 
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