What did you do to your GMT today?

Mike534x

Well-Known Member
Fixed the exhaust leak on the Envoy finally! The tick from the front driver side exhaust manifold had been getting louder over the past 2 months, thought it was the lifters but saw the manifold had a gap between the headers that a dime could easily squeeze into....yikes.

Ordered a Dorman 917-142 exhaust manifold clamp, that supposedly fits the front driver side. While the hole for the coolant sensor lined up, the clamp was incompatible. The manifold for the LH6 has a slightly different design from the one used in my Avalanche. There is a bit of a "hump" where it meets the heat shield, this "hump" prevents the clamp from lining up with the screw holes properly causing it to be off about 3/8 to a 1/2". Decided to search again for a fix, but this time searching for a clamp that fits the TB SS, and came across the #KAP108 clamp that fits the 5.3/6.0 (verified to work with the 360/370). Got it today and installed it a few minutes ago. The tick is gone, and it sits flush against the manifold and block. What a difference, and $50 was all it took! Next step is to figure out where the "vibration" noise I'm getting on startup from the truck is coming from.
 

brianlibby791

Well-Known Member
Washed mine yesterday for the first time in over a month.. just got the bed back on the truck on Thursday thanks to the help of @littleblazer .. just had the cross members where the spare was redone and some plating on the outside frame rail channel along with a patch for a cross member starting to head out.
 

Mounce

Well-Known Member
Pulled the tb into the shop and blew out the vent valve and line, has been refusing fuel for a while now. Was gonna check the charcoal canister but couldn't find it... Even dropped the spare. Must be tucked behind one of the tank heat shields. Confirmed bad rear sway links while I was under there.

Then tackled the rear three dome lights, one out and two flickering. Always had issues with connection of the single side lights with your average 194 leds so I pulled the housing and soldered a 5730 board connector to the socket and put boards in both plus replaced the failed board in the main rear light, figure it'll be pretty bright back there at night now and I won't have any more connection issues. Will do the same to any other lights that give me an issue.

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Then pulled the Silverado in and topped off the oil and checked fluids and air filter. All was as expected other than the air filter still being clean.
 

littleblazer

Gold Supporter
Win... the oil pressure lol. (the odometer is about 40k off)
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DocBrown

Well-Known Member
I actually did this a couple of weeks ago and then went on vacation so didn't have time to post this. Anyway, rust on the rear wheel wells of 2007-2013 Sierras and Silverados is a well known issue. I've done a lot of body work and paint over the years but the thought of rebuilding these panels makes me want to take a nap. I found plastic wheel flares that are paintable and look like stock items. They are made by Bushwhacker. I have a spray gun and compressor, the paint is Napa Martin Senour Crossfire base coat and Finish 1 clear coat. I'm very happy with the look. I have stock size tires and didn't want flares that stuck out 5 inches from the body. That looks stupid unless you have tires to go with them.









 
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Blckshdw

Moderator
Swapped out the dead EV fan clutch, for the thermal version, and stumbled across something I hadn't seen posted before. I was able to remove the clutch WITHOUT having to remove the fan shroud, and messing with the radiator hose/coolant. Major time saver! :wooot:

After cracking the clutch nut loose, so I could spin it by hand, I then removed all of the fan blade bolts, and then moved it up against the engine. Disconnected the shroud from the radiator, pushed it back a bit, and disconnected the clutch wiring harness.

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Spun the clutch completely off the water pump shaft to get it free. Fan blades stay put on the pump shaft. Lifted the driver's side corner of the shroud a bit, and with some man handling, was able to pull the clutch out through the gap. :cool: :biggrin:

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Put some anti seize on the threads, reversed the steps and put the new one in. Started it up, and even after the initial roar, the fan was noticeably more audible at idle than previous times I had the hood open. (which has been a LOT lately :ugh: ) Not loud, but I could tell it was spinning faster than before, so that's a good sign. Hopped in, turned the truck around to back it in the garage, and there was a very slight roar when I'd hit the gas during a 3 point turn.

True test will be the morning commute, and see what my temps are doing. Traffic has been pretty bad this week, so for once, that will be a good thing! lol
 

littleblazer

Gold Supporter
U-Joints on the escalade.
 

Redbeard

Well-Known Member
Replaced the battery. Yesterday she turned over a bit slower than normal so I checked the voltage while cranking and it dropped to 8 1/2 volts when starting :sadcry:
The old battery lasted 3 1/2 years so it was time to replace it. Still on the original alternator at 15 years old and nearly 200k miles. :smile:
 

Blckshdw

Moderator
Finally buckled down and dug into why 3 of the red LEDs on my passenger side mirror were dim for the longest time, and now not lighting up at all. Turns out 1 of the solder joints had disconnected, found it by having power applied, and a light touch to one of the LEDs caused all of them to light up as bright as the rest of them. Touched up the joint (melted part of the LED casing :ugh: ) and it was good to go.

Laid the electrical tape back down to cover up the white PCB, and put everything back together. I'll put them back on the truck in the morning.

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wstuckey1

Well-Known Member
Finally cut the coolant lines to the rear heater core and spliced then together. A lot easier than I was expecting a while ago.
 

TollKeeper

Well-Known Member
Not a GMT360, but a GMT250. Battery light kept flashing on, with no rhyme or reason to it. Pulled the alternator and battery out (WHAT A PAIN IN THE ASS), and had them both checked at 3 different stores. All checked out fine. Cleaned up the connections, pulled the navigation radio and bluetooth module out, and reinstalled the factory 6cd unit, to see if they are screwing with the BCM, or if my BCM is just failing on me. God I hope its not the BCM.
 

BrianF

Well-Known Member
The C1500 has been run around the acreage the last few days. Moved piles of limbs and deadfall to the burn pile. I then cleaned the box out and she is full of old barbed wire and page wire, ready for a dump run. I may have scratched some of the paint loading this stuff...
 

Maverick6587

Well-Known Member
I've been trying to figure out this very slight misfire feeling coming from the engine, only at idle, for over a year now.

I finally decided to just swap out the MAF, even though it was reading close to 4.2 gr/se.

That engine runs so smooth now that I can't even tell the engine is running!
 

Mike534x

Well-Known Member
Went for gas while shopping for a small road trip this weekend, sitting at the stop light when I noticed this. Hello infamous P0463. Of course this happens after I put a full tank in. :Banghead:

Looks like I'll be driving her around and get the tank as empty as possible, after looking at the cost of the sending unit and the entire fuel pump assembly. I may just go for the whole assembly for peace of mind.

Between the Avalanche refusing to fill at the pump, and now this I think I'm on a pre-winter roll right now. :crackup:
 

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Maverick6587

Well-Known Member
Yikes. Don't buy Delphi. I had to warranty replace mine after about 5 months.
 

littleblazer

Gold Supporter
Just looked at the escalade sitting on jack stands. I suppose you're wondering how the differential/transfer case rebuild went... well it was great. Drove it Saturday night and it was so effing quiet I was amazed. Now the exhaust we welded up where the cats are is tweaked and not even close... so it sits, exhaust less lol.
 

Mike534x

Well-Known Member
Yikes. Don't buy Delphi. I had to warranty replace mine after about 5 months.
No worries! I bought a Bosch 67508. I did see the Delphi, and saw all the issues people were having with the pump not staying primed. I originally planned on buying a Delco unit but they (5 available last night when added to cart) were gone this morning. Its going to be a fun week when I get back home.
 

Mooseman

Moderator
Bosch actually supplies ACDelco with their pumps.
 

littleblazer

Gold Supporter
My delco had a Bosch sticker on it.
 

Mike534x

Well-Known Member
Bosch actually supplies ACDelco with their pumps.
Sounds like I made a solid choice! Is there any reason why the AC Delco one is more expensive? I don't understand how there was a $40 difference between the two.

My delco had a Bosch sticker on it.
I'm feeling better about not spending the extra premium in that case. Its a shame the Delphi models are junk, do you guys suggest replacing that medal snap ring at the same time or any suggestions of what I should buy/replace while I'm in there?


So is there an easy way to get the tank down? I saw May03's video for his TB. But then I had a thought, has it ever been attempted by someone to make an access hole above it through the truck, and just JB weld/rivet a latch of some sort?


In other news, I picked up the Avalanche from the shop. They cannot figure out why it keeps refusing to fill up at the gas station (tried several different ones),just shuts them off like its being over filled. The lines are clear, the EVAP canister and solenoid have been replaced and they're telling me the problem lies with the gas tank. Going to take it elsewhere for a second opinion come Monday. Just in the off chance the EVAP canister is a dud, I bought another off Amazon. Both are AC Delco, but I figured what do I have to lose by replacing it again since experience here has shown OEM parts can be defective out of the box.
 

Mooseman

Moderator
Is there any reason why the AC Delco one is more expensive?
Yeah, the ACDelco box! :laugh:

It has been talked about cutting in the floor but seems like more work than it's worth. If you live in the rust belt, you will probably have to replace the retaining ring.
 

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