What did you do to your GMT today?

TB_n00b

Well-Known Member
Did my tranny fluid and filter for the 150k mark. Threw in an engine oil flush and replacement and diagnosed a dead front washer pump. Will throw in a new one when I do the TB cleaning and new air filter on a cooler day.
 

Sparky

Moderator
Not what I did to it but what I noticed. Rust creeping out from behind the tail light. Sigh.

20190804_173441.jpg

And the doors that I thought at least were rust free are apparently not either. Coming from behind the seal on the driver front.

20190715_071347.jpg

The rockers underneath are getting pretty bad too.

Good thing is, no significant frame rot that I've found, compared to what was going on with my old TB, so we are good there. Maybe after moving into the house I'll have some time and space to do some redneck body work and clean some of this up before it gets way out of hand. I want to keep this truck another 2 years if it holds up mechanically (210k going strong), but I'd rsther it not have rotten holes in it!
 

gpking

Well-Known Member
My front sway bar bushings are clapped after only 50k miles, and by clapped, I mean they allow ±1/2" of vertical play in the brackets. It sounds like my front end is about to collapse. They were not the cheapest ones available either, they're polyurethane, they should have lasted a hell of a lot longer.

Any recommendations for a brand/type? Might go with rubber again if I'm going to have to replace them regularly anyway.
 

Mooseman

Moderator
Towed the trailer home with the Saab sans A/C. That clutch bearing must be really done because I could smell burning rubber from under the hood. That belt is something tough because it held all 360km while towing in 3rd. The 5.3 did a better job than the 4.2 and found the rig more stable. The new brakes got a good workout when an asshole sped up to get in front of me while I was merging onto the highway and then we both had to brake hard to not run into the lineup of cars. Car behind me veered off onto the shoulder (as seen on newly installed rear camera). Good thing trailer brakes worked like a charm with the Prodigy controller.
 

Matt

Silver Supporter
My front sway bar bushings are clapped after only 50k miles, and by clapped, I mean they allow ±1/2" of vertical play in the brackets. It sounds like my front end is about to collapse. They were not the cheapest ones available either, they're polyurethane, they should have lasted a hell of a lot longer.

Any recommendations for a brand/type? Might go with rubber again if I'm going to have to replace them regularly anyway.
I've had good luck with SMAXX endlinks. @HARDTRAILZ will tell you to make a set using helms links.
 

gpking

Well-Known Member
I've had good luck with SMAXX endlinks. @HARDTRAILZ will tell you to make a set using helms links.
I like the design of the Suspension Maxx links and that they are serviceable, but they don't sell sway bar bushings.

I did my endlinks at the same time as the bushings. The endlinks are still going.
 

Martyelzz4

Well-Known Member
A couple of months ago I found a set of 8 NEW injectors for my 5.3i 9-7x for $49.95, but I had my wife's 99 Buick Park Avenue in the garage and now that it is done and sold.. it was time to do the injectors. I did find one of the old injectors on the passenger side that was bad reading infinite on the 20 ohm range. The other 7 were reading right around 12.6 ohms. I kept getting misfire codes indicating one of the injectors was sticking open. So now, the new injectors are in. All 8 of the new injectors measured 10.6 ohms. We'll see how it goes. I also installed new retaining clips.
 

Attachments

djthumper

Administrator
Not what I did to it but what I noticed. Rust creeping out from behind the tail light. Sigh.

View attachment 90335

And the doors that I thought at least were rust free are apparently not either. Coming from behind the seal on the driver front.

View attachment 90336

The rockers underneath are getting pretty bad too.

Good thing is, no significant frame rot that I've found, compared to what was going on with my old TB, so we are good there. Maybe after moving into the house I'll have some time and space to do some redneck body work and clean some of this up before it gets way out of hand. I want to keep this truck another 2 years if it holds up mechanically (210k going strong), but I'd rsther it not have rotten holes in it!
I know how you can get rid of your rust problem.
 

Reprise

Lifetime VIP Supporter
Replaced the worn driver's side front hub on the Voy, after cleaning out the garage, rearranging my tool chests for more room, and actually *storing* all the tools in the cabinets for a change.

The 'good' news -- Eliminated the noise (so I diagnosed correctly / avoided the parts shotgun. Yay me) 👍 And now I can pull the Sierra in and start working on it. 👍 👍

The 'bad' news -- my new (to me) compressor is 110V, but will trip the breaker every time it needs to restart the motor & replenish the tank (it does the initial fill just fine). I'll start a separate post on this for suggestions / ideas.

As an aside - the Sierra's < 6mo old WallyWorld battery self-discharged. Given that this isn't the first time / first vehicle that this has happened to, I will no longer recommend them (was their 'top of the line' Maxx w/ 3yr full replacement & 2 more pro-rata after that). Now looking for a good AGM battery (suggestions are always welcome).
 

Beacon

Silver Supporter
@Reprise I don't know if they are good, but i just bought a napa premium for my jeep, and they have a $25 rebate until August 31st. easy rebate, to 2 pics and filled out a form online. plus the battery was cheaper than what advance and o'reilly had for the same/similar CCA
 

Mooseman

Moderator
Very tiring day but a lot of work done on the Saab. Replaced the A/C compressor (on the V8, it's a bitch), replaced the water pump with the new ACDelco I found at Kenny U-Pull and while I was at it, replaced the oil pump with the proper DOD high volume/pressure Melling unit.

When I did the DOD delete a couple of years ago, I mistakenly used the regular LS pump and my pressure was lower because the DOD bypass in the pan is still there. So low that I was getting a code for it. I was getting 20psi while cruising and like 10-12psi idle. Since I was going in there to replace the compressor due to noise from the clutch bearing (it was totally toast and wobbly!) and the water pump, might as well get the proper oil pump in. It has 33% higher volume and pressure. Now, I get 30psi hot idle and 60psi hot at 3000 rpm. I didn't have to drop the oil pan because I had already modified the oil pump pickup bolt.

And now the engine is so quiet, I can hear the piston slap again :frown: . It was too late to refill the A/C after installing the new compressor so that'll be for Monday.
 

Reprise

Lifetime VIP Supporter
@Reprise I don't know if they are good, but i just bought a napa premium for my jeep, and they have a $25 rebate until August 31st. easy rebate, to 2 pics and filled out a form online. plus the battery was cheaper than what advance and o'reilly had for the same/similar CCA
Appreciate the suggestion. When I bought the Walmart batteries, it was with the idea that I could get a replacement anywhere in the country, and (mostly) any time of day. That's important for me b/c I could literally be 'anywhere in the country', depending on time of year, etc. So that played into my decision to go with them.

If care is taken with them, the 'Maxx' batteries will last awhile; they have 5yr warranties (3yr full replacement), have very good CCA, and they cost less than $100, net. But they drain quicker than others when sitting connected for long periods -- I sulfated the one in the Envoy a couple of years back, although I was able to repair that one. It turns the starter more slowly now, but it's been reliable for the last couple of years now, even when we had the -32F temps here last winter.

WRT Napa, the Sierra came with one from the previous owner, and it died rather quickly -- within its own warranty period, per the labels on the case, but I had no proof I was the purchaser. So it was of no value to me, except as a core.

The other factor in why these batteries deteriorate, is me letting the vehicle sit for long periods of time. When I drive it, I drive it a lot. When I don't, it sits (outside) for a month or more, on a regular basis. While I could take the battery out and put it on a float charger, I'm more inclined to have the battery in-car and connected (yes, I know that even if I don't want to take the battery out of the truck, simply disconnecting it would help slow the rate of discharge)

So... after all of that, what did I do yesterday? Exchanged my discharged (sulfated) battery for a brand new one at Walmart (figuring I might as well get the 'free' one, and if I manage to destroy this one, then get the AGM, which do much better sitting for long periods, vs. a 'flooded' battery.) Another reason was that the AGM brands I'd likely pick from, I'd have to have them shipped, and I needed to move the Sierra before I could get the AGM I wanted in the truck. Not to mention the cost, when I have plans to spend a small fortune on other parts for the Sierra, and soon.

The CSR @ Wallyworld tried telling me it 'just needed a charge' after using their load tester. But I could tell I could 'baffle her with BS' and told her that at 2.78 volts (when it was supposed to be at +10V or better), the battery was toast, and my own charger had flagged it as bad (it did, but mostly because it doesn't have a desulfation mode. My old one did, but it bit the dust prematurely).

Even if I could've brought the battery back to life, it was permanently damaged, for sure. Had I charged it about a month ago, when it was not as severely drained, I likely could've kept it from dying. But I left it in, knowing I could just let it die and get a new one (and I had to focus on getting the Envoy's hub changed out.) The lead plates get recycled again into another battery, so in the end, it's (mostly) resource neutral.

In the end, I got them to give me a new battery. Charged it up, put it in the Sierra, and now it's in the garage. Will grab some oil out of the pan for analysis, and see where we're at, before I start ordering $$$$ worth of parts. Oh, and I'll disconnect the battery... LOL


I got the Duracell AGM from Costco and am liking it so far.
I'm surprised Costco carries Duracell -- they've been using Interstate heavily for years now.
The nice thing about Duracell is that it's a rebranded Deka / East Penn, and I like their batteries (US made, too). While I have a (lapsed) Costco membership, the only reservation I have about getting one from them is that there are a couple of hundred (guessing) Costco in US / Canada -- while there are about 6000 Walmarts.

Batteries Plus (or, 'Batteries Plus Bulbs', as they're now called) also carries Duracell - I got two 6V FLA golf cart batteries for my camper there (and I maintain them on a charger over the winter, as well as having them on solar when I'm using the camper). So far, so good; we'll see how they hold up.
 

Sparky

Moderator
Pretty sure the NAPA AGM I got in my truck is a Deka rebrand. It looks nearly identical to the flooded Deka that used to be in there that got weak with only 400 ish CCA left after something like 7 or 8 years.
 

xavierny25

Well-Known Member
Digging into the search for a 4.10 front diff. Mine is toast.
I've got 1 if your really in a bind and need it asap. I haven't moved in on my 4.10 swap and it will probably be a while before I do. Beside my brother-in-law is going to convert to rear wheel drive so I'll have that 1 when I'm ready to swap over.
 

TollKeeper

Well-Known Member
Digging into the search for a 4.10 front diff. Mine is toast.
Still looking for a rear GT5 LWB G80/G86. Glad I bought the front when I did. 300 bucks shipped seems to be a good price when comparing things around the web. Cant seem to get as lucky with the rear thou.
 

Mooseman

Moderator
Filled the A/C in the Saab, new compressor (UAC from RA) works like a charm and is so quiet, even on clutch engagement. However, my old gauge set bit the dust with the low pressure gauge showing like 120 psi.

Also fixed the rear hatch that wouldn't open (linkage was undone).
 

Blckshdw

Moderator
Popped the door panels off, removed the side mirrors, and put the stock mirrors back in temporarily. Maybe 6 or 7 years ago, the turn signal lenses got knocked off in a roll through car wash and the plastic posts on the underside of the mirror where the lenses screw in, were snapped off at the base.


90465

90467

As a result I used some 3M double sided foam tape which held up for a pretty long time, but is starting to let go a touch, and the lenses are separating slightly. I can squeeze them back in place, and they'l hold for about a day, then I can notice them sagging again. The other day, the passenger side had to be hanging about a half inch down. :eek:

90466

So off these come, so they don't let loose while I'm driving. Gonna disassemble the top sections, get some epoxy putty and pack it into that cavity where the mounting posts used to be. Clip the lenses back in place, so I can mark the screw hole, and then put a pilot hole for the screw to secure them properly.
 

xavierny25

Well-Known Member
Installed the !@#$%^& oil catch can20190813_190423.jpg

For those wanting to do this the easy way you need 2-1/2"to 3/8" barb adapters. Cut the factory tube in half and push them apart. Install worm clamp over each end. Push in the 1/2" side of the barb in the hose and fasten the clamp. You'll need about 4-5 feet of 3/8 hose (probably less). Put a clamp on both sides, slide that over the barb and tighten the clamp. Decide where to mount your can. Cut the hoses to reach and add another set of worm clamp and that's it.... You are Done.....Do follow instructions on how to put the can together carefully so that nothing leaks.
 

Mounce

Well-Known Member
Changed oil on the Silverado. Promptly got a "SERVICE 4WD" message on the DIC on the first start and no lights on the controls. Couple starts later and the whole system was fully functional. Pulled codes and only had a B2600 which is a DRL circuit fault from where I cut the BCM out of that circuit and put it on a switch.
 

littleblazer

Gold Supporter

TollKeeper

Well-Known Member

littleblazer

Gold Supporter
I want that.. Been looking for a truck idenitcal to that for me to put a flat bed on to tote around my ATV's and Snowmobiles.
It had the bed on it. Unless I'm not privy to some info I think he pulled it off to have the cross members redone so he can have a hitch again... and to fix the fill neck lol.

Look for utility bodies, a lot of the time people sell them off cheap. The box comes off easy and you can sell it to someone else if it's in decent shape.
 

TollKeeper

Well-Known Member
It had the bed on it. Unless I'm not privy to some info I think he pulled it off to have the cross members redone so he can have a hitch again... and to fix the fill neck lol.

Look for utility bodies, a lot of the time people sell them off cheap. The box comes off easy and you can sell it to someone else if it's in decent shape.
But the catch to utility bodies is they are insured as a Cab/Chassis, and the insurance goes way up for those.
 

littleblazer

Gold Supporter
But the catch to utility bodies is they are insured as a Cab/Chassis, and the insurance goes way up for those.
Wait... Jersey does something normal? They're insured as commercial vehicles by weight class here... aside from liability they're similar to a normal 25/3500 here.
 

TollKeeper

Well-Known Member
Wait... Jersey does something normal? They're insured as commercial vehicles by weight class here... aside from liability they're similar to a normal 25/3500 here.
Not sure about NJ, but Colorado and Missouri recognize it as a commercial class. In Missouri, you even have to pay more for your plates and tags. BL6 for a SRW, and BL12 for a 2500/3500 dually. I havent registered a truck in Colorado yet to know if they do the same thing or not.
 

littleblazer

Gold Supporter
Not sure about NJ, but Colorado and Missouri recognize it as a commercial class. In Missouri, you even have to pay more for your plates and tags. BL6 for a SRW, and BL12 for a 2500/3500 dually. I havent registered a truck in Colorado yet to know if they do the same thing or not.
But that's if you register commercial, once you remove the box and writing you should be able to register it as a pickup. When we first got the trucks we weren't allowed to register them as commercial until the company name was on the side. Same with insurance. :dunce: Nothing makes sense.
 

TollKeeper

Well-Known Member
But that's if you register commercial, once you remove the box and writing you should be able to register it as a pickup. When we first got the trucks we weren't allowed to register them as commercial until the company name was on the side. Same with insurance. :dunce: Nothing makes sense.
Missouri doesnt care, if its a truck, it gets a BL6 or BL12 plate. But we are way off topic now LOL
 

HARDTRAILZ

Moderator
Pulled CVs, but the front driveshaft may spin freely when parked yet is grabbing n spinning broken front diff. Guess today will be driveshaft removal
 

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