What did you do to your GMT today?

Blackstar

Well-Known Member
Started on a rear brake replacement. Rotors are bad and I thought the pads were worn. Also wanted to check handbrake shoes because of a squeak I hear when pulling away from a stop. Found that the pads were ok but both upper control arms are rusted and broken where they bolt to the frame. I think I may be going to a repair shop for this one. Can't seem to find any videos showing this specific repair.
 

TollKeeper

Well-Known Member
The front control arms are really easy. I replaced mine while doing a brake and bearing change a while ago. There are some posts on here, or over on the off road gmt website. I seem to remember the most difficult bolt to remove is the drivers side upper rear bolt. But it isn't even that bad.
 

xavierny25

Well-Known Member
@TollKeeper I think @Blackstar is referring to the rear upper control arms which do break. 20180915_125750.jpg
There really not all that bad to switch out. I guess it would depend on the amount of rust you may have in that area.
Edit: this is my brother-in-law tbss for reference.
 

TollKeeper

Well-Known Member
It's just 2 bolts. I thought the rear was about as easy to do as the front? The hard part was breaking the bolts loose.
 

Blackstar

Well-Known Member
Thanks for the replies. There is a lot of rust on this one. Lots of salt used on the roads here in Nova Scotia. I'm gonna take another look at it, maybe next weekend if I can't find a drive to work.
 

TollKeeper

Well-Known Member
Start soaking it now with some penetrating oil.
 
Hopefully it's not broken on the frame mount like we have also seen.
 
Took her for a drive.
 

Reprise

Lifetime VIP Supporter
Took the Sierra out in the snow to see how she handles in it / how the A4WD kicks in (we're supposed to get 12" here, but I don't think it's going to be quite that much, based on what I've seen so far).

Anyway... I was pleasantly surprised with the A4WD - it's not a 'slip-bang' system like in the 360s. I can feel when it kicks in (and out) - but I have to be focusing on it. It's subtle, by comparison.

I could hear one of my front hubs (the one I didn't replace) howling a bit - I probably should've replaced it when I had the LH side axle apart recently to fix the diff leak there. It'll last until spring without getting much louder (fingers crossed). It's making noise intermittently now, so I probably have awhile.

The other thing I heard was a lot of popping / bumping - and since I've got a brand-new suspension all the way around, I figure that with its age / mileage, I probably need to replace the body mounts (isolators) all around. First, I'll get back underneath and inspect them before ordering new ones - it would be a royal PITA to order first, and then discover that one or more couldn't be replaced due to corrosion issues.

Was wondering if anyone had done this before (on a 360 / 800 / 900 / etc.) Searched our forums and didn't see any hits on 'replace body mount'. External sites range from 'stupid easy' to 'be careful, else you'll lose fingers'. Looking to see what YT has on it, video-wise.
 
Picked up my truxk from the brake shop. New master cylinder and all is well. Hated the bill but I was tired of messing with stuff and I just did not have any more time to put into it. Drives nicely again. Smells like an old smoker was in it though, so I have to find a way to air it out.

Yes the A4WD mode on the full size is so mich better than the slip bang. I've used it a few times and it actually works well.
 

smt 59

Well-Known Member
Gave the trucks a wash on Sunday and it rained on Monday, I New it was going to but wanted to wash of the salt. Now it’s snowing, more salt!
Changed the license plate light today.
 
Installed new winter wipers on the Saab. 22" and 24". And cleaned out the FOB as the contacts were dirty and not working all the time.
 
Filled the tank with just under 23 gallons. Hadn't calculated MPGs lately, cuz I know they aren't great, but got 13.1 this time, with 2" front lift, 31.6" tires, and a blown t-stat for the majority of this tankful. Now I'll get to see how things improve with the new t-stat over the next month.
 

TollKeeper

Well-Known Member
Filled it up on my way in to work. 25.6 gallons? How does that work? Averaging 16.6 DIC MPG, 414 miles, on stock tires and suspension. Hearing a banging in the front passenger side. Need to crawl up under there and figure it out.. Will have to wait to next weekend. Im betting its a ball joint. But could be a sway bar link. I put a new upper control arm on a few months ago. If its the lower ball joint, I think I will just replace the control arm. The bushings were starting to push out.
 

xavierny25

Well-Known Member
Dipped in to the dash LEDs koolaid and I liked it!

After picking up a budget soldering station and stand last night and texting @Blckshdw a few times I started tackling the steering wheel control lights.

After a few Trial-and-error moments I got those all done today. 20181201_164858.jpg
Pics really dont do it justice, it looks way better in person. 20181201_121454.jpg
My work bench this morning. 20181201_164956.jpg
A side profile of the finished product. Still plenty of work to do on the rest of the inside of the Voy.

Big Thank You too @Blckshdw for the assist on all of this.
 

TollKeeper

Well-Known Member
Does anyone on the forum do the LED mod? My steering wheel controls are new, less than a year old. But the lights on them are already out. Should probably do my cluster too, but only 1 light is out, been that way for 10 years.

I don't have the hand stability to do it on my own.
 

xavierny25

Well-Known Member
Does anyone on the forum do the LED mod? My steering wheel controls are new, less than a year old. But the lights on them are already out. Should probably do my cluster too, but only 1 light is out, been that way for 10 years.

I don't have the hand stability to do it on my own.
I was just talking to @Blckshdw about this since I have a set from the tbss steering wheel I can do. If your really interested I can get them made up for you. I'll be honest the faces of these switches are not in the best shape but if yours are good you can just pop yours open and swap in the boards with fresh LEDs in them.
Can you take a pic and post of your steering wheel to be sure it's the same button lay out.
 

TollKeeper

Well-Known Member
I can next time I am in my truck..
 
Hopped in it and ran some errands around town. Made a harbor freight run to get a magnetic pick up tool, mini mirror with an retractable handle, a d a box of nitrile gloves.

Got home and got under it for some fishing. Time to find where that stray socket went, and get it out of there. Turns out it worked its way down to where the AC compressor bolts in at the bottom. Had to remove the OEM skid plate to have enough room to maneuver my arm in there, but having the magnet made quick work of it. :thumbsup:

20181202_120304.jpg
 

Reprise

Lifetime VIP Supporter
Determined (on the Sierra) that...
-My power steering system isn't leaking at all (what I saw on the driveway was oil w/ uv dye...d'oh!)

- My rear main seal looks to be intact - nice & dry in the area (good news, I suppose) - but that means...

- I've got a helluva pan leak, most likely in both rear corners at a minimum. Gonna take it in to my mech who did the trans on the Voy, and see what he'll charge (it's a 4wd, so a pretty suck job - let the people who have a lift and room to move around do it.) Or, put the ad back in CL and let the next guy worry about it.
 
Man, you sure haven't had any luck with this thing. I know your pain...
 

Reprise

Lifetime VIP Supporter
I need only look in the mirror to find the cause of that pain (but I do appreciate the thought.)

I will prolly send you a PM w/ some details in a day or two; right now I seriously can't decide whether to keep or sell it.
 

Matt

Silver Supporter
Replaced the passengers front mid driver with a new one because it would fade in and out, but, it hasn't done it for a few days because of the weather getting a bit warmer.
 
With a lift a pan drop is not too hard. Been there on mine. Without a lift it is probably a sucky job though.
 

Reprise

Lifetime VIP Supporter
With a lift a pan drop is not too hard. Been there on mine. Without a lift it is probably a sucky job though.
Yeah...just to clarify - I meant a hydraulic vehicle lift, not a suspension lift.

There's actually a place near me that rents out lift space; I've used them before. Problem with that is that they charge by the hour, and I'm not the fastest mechanic - leave it there long enough, and cost-effectiveness goes out the window. Having all the right tools on-hand is an issue as well.

I'll admit - it does give me a real sense of satisfaction to say "I did it myself". Therapeutic, even (but that's a post for another time.)

Anywho...I have an appt at the new job (!) this afternoon (pre-employment stuff), so I'll pick this up tmrw. Maybe order up some supplies from Rock - they got my P/S hoses (which I don't need) to me in a day. Kudos to them. Besides the pan gasket, I'll get an o-ring for the pickup tube, maybe another part or two.

@Sparky - you did this on 4wd? I was thinking of unbolting the diff (9.25") at the CV flanges and dropping it as an intact unit - I dont want to pull the axles, if I can avoid it.
 
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Yessir I did. Undo the cv axles at the flanges, disconnect the drive shaft, unplug the electrical connector, and the whole thing basically just unbolts with 4 big bolts IIRC. Did it this past spring to redo my oil pickup tune O ring to fix poor cold oil psi and a leaky pan gasket (use rtv at the block seams front and back when putting on new gasket). I can't remember if there are large nuts, or if they are welded in place.
 

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