What did you do to your GMT today?

Oh, I am familiar with MDB Fab. I just wasn't sure who you bought it from. There have been a few parting out their gear. I am a mod over at ORTB too.
 

wstuckey1

Well-Known Member
Oh, I am familiar with MDB Fab. I just wasn't sure who you bought it from. There have been a few parting out their gear. I am a mod over at ORTB too.
It took me a minute to mount it since his rig didn’t have a body lift but I got it on and it’s solid as can be
 

KNBlazer

Well-Known Member
Found the major AC leak, been about 3 weeks with no AC... I live in bipolar Southern California, one day in the 60s the next in the 90s.... last weekend, filled it with 2 cans of 12oz Freon and a can of EZChill w/ UV Dye...AC last about 10 minutes, Looked like crazy with UV flashlight, bought a second flashlight not trusting the first one, lol... looked at the condenser thinking it was for sure the culprit, as I couldn't find anything.... Jacked up car looked underneath as I have the EXT model, nothing... finally since I had the front torn apart I told myself, well I won't lose anything and kept going, took off the air filter box, washer reservoir, coolant overflow and nothing.... out of nowhere, thought came in to my head, remove the sleeve... Jackpot... about 3 hours of diagnosing to find the leak... A visit to Napa and $60 dollars later, pulled vacuum for 25min and shut it off, checked vacuum 20 minutes later and it held... leak has been fixed, pulled vacuum for another 10 minutes... only thing left is charging the system... didn't charge it as I don't know how much pag 46 to add... I had to buy the gauges and the vacuum. flashlights, spent about $280-$300 including the freon... to my surprise not one drop of blood on this project... :2thumbsup:

20181111_160606.jpg 20181111_192621.jpg
 

Juicy K

Well-Known Member
Drove it for the first time since April, I drive my Jaguar in the nice months for fuel economy, and my poor Bravada needed the rear axle gone through, rebuilt it this past weekend. I was quite amazed what a difference it made. No driveline slop at all and much much less noise.
 

Mike534x

Well-Known Member
OK, that's a complete bastard to change. Get a blood transfusion and your arsenal of swear words ready. :biggrin:
I'm not looking forward to it, but will have the beer on standby haha!

Just trying to search up a good way to tackle it, and making sure the blood is not going to waste on the wrong actuator.
 

Mike534x

Well-Known Member
Replaced the alternator with the new one, heard it kick in since the truck sat all day so I take it that its working at least. Replaced the bolts on the battery cables as well. Had a little trouble working the new ones in, but with a little backyard engineering got them into the grommets using a small socket and c-clamp.

Also returning the OBD memory saver, hooked everything up saw the radio was reset and of course heard the actuators recalibrating. So far they seem to have survived another round, the mode door got a little bit quieter. Whether that's good or bad has yet to be determined.
 

Reprise

Lifetime VIP Supporter
Sounds like you learnt from me!
I like to use multiple languages - that way, I know the truck understood, no matter what :wink:


Got some practice in this afternoon, while removing the oil drain plug on the Sierra - having had a shop change the oil when I had an 'inspection' done, daresay the tech used a gun to tighten it, and the corners were rounded from usage over the years.

Merde! Schiesse!
(looked for the Oz version, but apparently, it's one of the rare vulgarities we share. Call me stuffed)

Finally got the thing off, but I shouldn't have to dig out a 1/2" drive with a six point and a hammer (!) to remove it. Now heading out to the auto parts to get a replacement, since I'd be tempting fate to keep using it. Thankfully, the inner thread is intact / unharmed.

To top it off, the only reason I drained the oil / removed the filter was to replace the oil cooler gasket, which is right above the filter. Apparently, these are notorious for leaking on the 6.0, and it looks like the source of my 'big' oil leak, at least. Fingers crossed.
 

BrianF

Well-Known Member
I gassed her up yesterday and put on about 200km. Gas dropped to 104.9$ a liter in these parts. I used it to get ATF, motor oil, oil filter, fuel filter and PEA based injector cleaner, all for my 1993 GMC 1500 rez truck.

Oh and unlike some people... I never swore at it...

I just swore at everything around it and various levels of government.
 

KNBlazer

Well-Known Member
Found the major AC leak, been about 3 weeks with no AC... I live in bipolar Southern California, one day in the 60s the next in the 90s.... last weekend, filled it with 2 cans of 12oz Freon and a can of EZChill w/ UV Dye...AC last about 10 minutes, Looked like crazy with UV flashlight, bought a second flashlight not trusting the first one, lol... looked at the condenser thinking it was for sure the culprit, as I couldn't find anything.... Jacked up car looked underneath as I have the EXT model, nothing... finally since I had the front torn apart I told myself, well I won't lose anything and kept going, took off the air filter box, washer reservoir, coolant overflow and nothing.... out of nowhere, thought came in to my head, remove the sleeve... Jackpot... about 3 hours of diagnosing to find the leak... A visit to Napa and $60 dollars later, pulled vacuum for 25min and shut it off, checked vacuum 20 minutes later and it held... leak has been fixed, pulled vacuum for another 10 minutes... only thing left is charging the system... didn't charge it as I don't know how much pag 46 to add... I had to buy the gauges and the vacuum. flashlights, spent about $280-$300 including the freon... to my surprise not one drop of blood on this project... :2thumbsup:

View attachment 86478 View attachment 86479
Screenshot_20181029-223214_Amazon Shopping.jpg Screenshot_20181029-223214_Amazon Shopping.jpg
This is the Freon I went with, 4 cans and 2oz pag 46 w/uv dye... AC gets down to 40 degrees rapidly, then begins cycling....
 
Put an old set of winters on the Saab. Better than the summer slicks it had until I get the TB back up and running.

On another note, a set of intake manifold gaskets I ordered from Amazon Canada was actually shipped from the US and is currently held up due to strikes at Canada Post. At least it's Prime so I can ship it back when it arrives late and after I bought another one locally.
 
Replaced the driver side CV axle and hub bearing to address a bad grinding noise. Axle was fine, but the hub was shot. Factory original with 200k miles. It did not want to come out of the bore on the knuckle without a ton of persuasion.

End result? Something is still grinding. I don't know how that bearing was not the source given just how terrible it sounded when spun by hand. Now i'm thinking it may be coming from the passenger side. That hub is also factory original so it is possible.
 

Capote

Platinum Supporter
Another oil change...
Replaced Camshaft Position Sensor, followed by a CASE relearn with HPtuners.
 

gpking

Well-Known Member
I threw some parts at it. I'm trying to fix a P0440 not due to the gas cap or filler neck. What else can you do?
The engine has been idling rough so my best guess is the purge valve might be bad.

Tonight I replaced the canister vent and purge valve solenoid assemblies. YouTube was a big help for the connectors. Why does every connector have to be different?
Fingers crossed this fixes it.
 
Glared at it, and ordered a new passenger hub bearing and front brakes. And a gas cap, because the clicky part of mine broke inside on Saturday and it won't close right anymore.
 
LONG day!! Around 9am, headed to the garage for some thermostat lovin. Mine's probably been stuck open for months, but due to the warm FL weather and mostly rush hour traffic of my commutes, the temps were over 190 whenever I looked at the Scangauge. BUT, when the weather cooled off a bit in October, started noticing the dash needle a little to the left, and below the 190 mark. :no:

First off, how do you have the bottom section of a 5 gallon drum under your truck, pull the radiator hose and STILL make a giant mess? Easy, don't take off the radiator cap first, pull the hose gently and position the tub in THAT spot. Then remember the radiator cap, unscrew it, and watch as the coolant spews all over the place. :Banghead:

20181121_093228.jpg

OK fine, tossed a towel down, figured I'd work on the alternator while everything drained. Why did it take me damn near 2 hours to get that alternator tipped forward. Even worse that I've done this before on another 360, so it shouldn't be that hard. That AC hose going into the condenser was RIGHT where that bottom bolt was. Ended up losing one of my 15mm sockets and a short extension, fell onto the AC compressor, couldn't be easily reached. Couldn't get a grip on it, then knocked it out of sight, and couldn't find it. Good thing for duplicate sockets!

Got the alternator tilted forward, and got to work on the T-stat bolts. Somehow the top bolt was directly behind the radiator hose. Didn't remember that from last time. :confused: Got under the hose, cranked up and was able to see over the UCA with one eye, and get it free... Yep, stuck wide open. One pleasant surprise I found, didn't notice this the last time either, on the old one, there are these little green rubber seals on the bolts. I moved those over to the new T-stat, and it held the bolts in place, making it 100x easier to get it bolted in without a spotter.

20181121_115624.jpg

Got that in, hoses attached, and filled the radiator. Double checked everything was snug, and fired up the truck. Let it idle for about 10 minutes, and hit 198 degrees and stayed there. Thought the SGII should have gone into open loop at that point, but considering sitting in traffic the last few times I barely got over 180, I assumed all was good.

20181121_132042.jpg

While putting the front bolts into the alternator bracket, the socket slipped off both the bolt head AND the ratchet, falling into the fan shroud :mad: Naturally I couldn't find it... Spun the fan by hand, could hear it rubbing and sliding. Got out my tiny camera, stuck it up inside the fan shroud from the bottom, still couldn't find it. Took a chance, and cranked over the engine real quick, and then back off. *Clack clack clack* Went for another look, still no dice. Cranked and cut the engine again... *Clack clack clack clack* but this time the socket fell to the ground under the oil pan... Better for it to have battle scars, than my knuckles...

20181121_142002.jpg

With all that finished, decided to try to fix my rattling grille. Pulled that off, and all of the clips were pretty loose except for the ones for the crossbar. Put some duct tape on the back sides of those, and some foam tape to fill in the gap along the top by the hood latch. Seems to be good for now.

Went for a quick drive around the block, and noticed an odd beeping sound. Also my steering wheel radio control buttons no longer working. Got back home, and pulled the PAC unit from the dash, the little LED was cycling through it's colors. Tried to go into programming mode to re-assign all the buttons, but nope, won't take. :hissyfit: Have been seriously considering getting an Android HU this weekend, but the big hold up was if it was going to be compatible with this steering wheel control adapter. Well if this thing pulled an HVAC actuator move, and died from the battery getting disconnected, that may not be an issue anymore... Got some more troubleshooting to do over the next couple days.
 

xavierny25

Well-Known Member
Wifey had a bit of a scare do to the Voy going dead on the highway on Wednesday coming home from work. She switched on the hazard lights shut and pulled the key out the ignition. She then attempted a restart and sure enough truck started up with no issue. No cel nada. After giving me a call she went about her way home. I checked it over yesterday morning and couldnt see anything our do anything to determine what had happened. Fast forward to last night drove about 1hr headed back home from the family's house and pop came on the cel. P0171. With a 180??? on the dash its definitely time for a new fuel pump. I'll inspect for air leaks and such tomorrow at my brothers shop.
Code just had to show up after I dropped 250 on NORCAL SS CUSTOM Belltech 31.5 Trailblazer Shock/Spring Combo Kit. It sure did. lol
 
Wifey had a bit of a scare do to the Voy going dead on the highway on Wednesday coming home from work. She switched on the hazard lights shut and pulled the key out the ignition. She then attempted a restart and sure enough truck started up with no issue. No cel nada. After giving me a call she went about her way home. I checked it over yesterday morning and couldnt see anything our do anything to determine what had happened. Fast forward to last night drove about 1hr headed back home from the family's house and pop came on the cel. P0171. With a 180??? on the dash its definitely time for a new fuel pump. I'll inspect for air leaks and such tomorrow at my brothers shop.
Code just had to show up after I dropped 250 on NORCAL SS CUSTOM Belltech 31.5 Trailblazer Shock/Spring Combo Kit. It sure did. lol
check if fuel pump relay legs fit snug into receptors
 

gpking

Well-Known Member
So I wasted like $60 on solenoids before I bothered to hook a scanner up...

Tank sensor is stuck at 0.2v no matter what. Gas cap is off in this picture BTW. Purge duty cycle responds to RPM changes, vent valve never opens. Even with the pedal on the floor and the purge valve duty cycle increased, 0.2v. Tank pressure is constant no matter what.
IMG_20181123_163327772.jpg

So the fuel tank pressure sensor is impossible to replace without dropping the tank, right?
Welp, good thing there's no inspections here. I'm not about to monkey with it unless I can just get under there and replace it.
 
Wifey had a bit of a scare do to the Voy going dead on the highway on Wednesday coming home from work. She switched on the hazard lights shut and pulled the key out the ignition. She then attempted a restart and sure enough truck started up with no issue. No cel nada. After giving me a call she went about her way home. I checked it over yesterday morning and couldnt see anything our do anything to determine what had happened. Fast forward to last night drove about 1hr headed back home from the family's house and pop came on the cel. P0171. With a 180??? on the dash its definitely time for a new fuel pump. I'll inspect for air leaks and such tomorrow at my brothers shop.
Code just had to show up after I dropped 250 on NORCAL SS CUSTOM Belltech 31.5 Trailblazer Shock/Spring Combo Kit. It sure did. lol
Never did figure out why mine does this randomly either. I'm usually stopped though. Only happened once on the highway.
So I wasted like $60 on solenoids before I bothered to hook a scanner up...

Tank sensor is stuck at 0.2v no matter what. Gas cap is off in this picture BTW. Purge duty cycle responds to RPM changes, vent valve never opens. Even with the pedal on the floor and the purge valve duty cycle increased, 0.2v. Tank pressure is constant no matter what.
View attachment 86593

So the fuel tank pressure sensor is impossible to replace without dropping the tank, right?
Welp, good thing there's no inspections here. I'm not about to monkey with it unless I can just get under there and replace it.
You're in luck, on the 02-04 and maybe 05 it is on the back of the tank to the left of the fill neck. You can feel it with your hand and replace it without dropping. It is a little uncomfortable though but it can be done with a mirror too. The newer ones it is up by the fuel pump.
 
Found the source of grinding. I jacked up the front passenger side and the wheel wobbled. Not sure why I couldn't feel that in my steering nor why I had no warning signs before the bearing self destructed, but sure. Also put in my spare CV axle on that side because the passenger one clicked and had play in the inboard joint.

I also put new front brakes on because both sides had seized up slide pins that had caused weird wear on the pads and they had 72k on them so they're old anyway. Replaced the calipers too because while they worked fine they both had shot rusted bleeders. Problem is I couldn't get them to bleed properly. No pedal, it just goes to the floor, and my master cylinder sounds like it is gurgling every time I push the pedal. The fluid also turned inky black. Weird, no signs of issues with any of that until I opened the system to replace those calipers. Great. I've about thrown in the towel and am ready to let a shop deal with this last bit of stupidity. If it is a master cylinder failure I have no experience bleeding the new cylinder or have the equipment needed to properly bleed the ABS.
 
Found the source of grinding. I jacked up the front passenger side and the wheel wobbled. Not sure why I couldn't feel that in my steering nor why I had no warning signs before the bearing self destructed, but sure. Also put in my spare CV axle on that side because the passenger one clicked and had play in the inboard joint.

I also put new front brakes on because both sides had seized up slide pins that had caused weird wear on the pads and they had 72k on them so they're old anyway. Replaced the calipers too because while they worked fine they both had shot rusted bleeders. Problem is I couldn't get them to bleed properly. No pedal, it just goes to the floor, and my master cylinder sounds like it is gurgling every time I push the pedal. The fluid also turned inky black. Weird, no signs of issues with any of that until I opened the system to replace those calipers. Great. I've about thrown in the towel and am ready to let a shop deal with this last bit of stupidity. If it is a master cylinder failure I have no experience bleeding the new cylinder or have the equipment needed to properly bleed the ABS.
Slam on the brakes on a dirt road a few times. It'll be fine.
 
Yeah that's true. I just need to get the gurgle fixed and a pedal back. Right now I have next to no stopping power.
 

gpking

Well-Known Member
You're in luck, on the 02-04 and maybe 05 it is on the back of the tank to the left of the fill neck. You can feel it with your hand and replace it without dropping. It is a little uncomfortable though but it can be done with a mirror too. The newer ones it is up by the fuel pump.
BIG facts. Thanks a billion.
I had to search Google Images for probably 5 minutes before I found a mediocre picture that showed it was on the rear. Once I cranked the contrast and brightness up I can tell that is it!
Screenshot_20181124-063412~01~01_20181124063754859.jpg
(2003 Trailblazer Fuel Tank Pressure Sensor location)

Heck, I guess that means I actually have to fix it today now...
 

Matt

Silver Supporter
Snapped the GD bolt for my passengers front SMAXX end link. (That side, the bolt was always hard to get tight) Ordered a new pair so I've got no sway bars at the moment.
 
Calling a tow to the brake shop. Screw it. I'm done messing with it.
 

gpking

Well-Known Member
In continuing this unlucky day for the Nation, I went to crank my spare tire down so I had more room to reach the back of my fuel tank. The wheel got about 6" down, then there was a *crack* and the crank spit little broken plastic bits all over the floor. The wheel got stuck where it was. :uhno:
All I could do is crank it back up.

Welp, bolt cutters have now been added to my "tools that go with me everywhere" kit.

Fortunately, I seem to have fixed the problem I intended to solve today. I picked up a new fuel tank pressure sensor, swapped it in with nothing more than a flashlight and a pick, and boom! The purge solenoid and tank pressure voltage are displaying some normal numbers now!
(Before the pressure sensor voltage was stuck at 0.2v and the purge solenoid duty cycle would only fluctuate between 0-30).
IMG_20181124_092911289s.jpg IMG_20181124_092350347~01.jpg
 

BrianF

Well-Known Member
My wife gassed it up yesterday and took it for a highway spin to do some shopping. I gave it a dose of PEA fuel system cleaner for fun. The thing has been making a rear end clunk the last few months and it appears to be the driver side end link. I rocked the back end from the hitch without any noises, then passenger side running board, no noises. Rocked it from the driver side running board and it was making a light clunk....
 
Went to fire it up to go run some errands, engine cranked slow and quit. Tried again, less cranking. :confused: Put the charger on it, and it read about 60% charge. Not sure what happened there, checked the ground connection at the battery (only major thing I messed with recently) and it was snug and solid. Unplugged phone charger and OBDII adapter

We'll see what happens after it's charged. Hoping I don't have a parasitic draw to deal with. Certainly glad I found this out now, and not tomorrow morning before work. :no:
 

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