What did you do to your GMT today?

[smt 59]

Adjusted the dual tailpipes and greased the rear suspension as well checked brakes and replaced a broken grease nipple on the end link.

 

[Mounce]

On the Silverado - drilled holes in the bottom of the passenger side turn signal housing to vent water intrusion. Already done the driver side. Tried re-sealing the driver side first with silicone around the halves and if anything it got worse, drilled holes in it and has been mint since besides the water damage to the chrome inside that was already done. So, upon first notice of water in the passenger side it got drilled. (aftermarket housings)

 

[shovenose]

new Denso o2 sensors

 

[smt 59]

On the Silverado - drilled holes in the bottom of the passenger side turn signal housing to vent water intrusion. Already done the driver side. Tried re-sealing the driver side first with silicone around the halves and if anything it got worse, drilled holes in it and has been mint since besides the water damage to the chrome inside that was already done. So, upon first notice of water in the passenger side it got drilled. (aftermarket housings)

Try dielectric grease on the light sockets as well, worked on mine.

 

[Matt]

Changed the passengers side outer tie rod. Took it for an alignment and they say the upper ball joints are done. Got home from the chiropractor just now, put the jack under it and they're right, I can see movement. So, just hit Detroit Axle for another set. I'll be buying a ball joint master kit next week so I can fix it again.

 

[Martyelzz4]

finally got the headlights sanded and Clear coated.. then finished off with ReJecX.
Oh, and installed my new battery terminals...

 

[xavierny25]

The Voy really did me in this weekend. I got my cv axle half shafts from Rockauto on Thursday and front Detroit axle wheel bearing from Ebay on friday.

The drivers side went pretty smooth pulling it all out and getting it in. Now the passenger side gave me hell. cv shaft did not want to let up at all. It finally did after going at it for about 15 minutes, fudge man that thing seemed like it welded itself in there. I greased the hell out of the disconnect in hopes this never happens again. Well this is where shit went left I could not get the new shaft in past about its half way point. I tried every angle, pulled it out turned it tried again and again. I decided to remove the tie rod end to give me a bit more room to play with and "oh boy" did I screw that up. I ended up bending and destroying the nut and threaded shaft there getting it off. After finally getting the cv axle in and putting things back together I new I'd have to run to autzone the next morning to get a replacement tie rod end and put it in.
What I didn't expect was my dash lit up like a Christmas tree. abs ,brake and stabilitrak lights glowing away. So I've been at it for the last few days trying to figure this out. I went to each connector at the hubs and noticed they are at fault . They both had double the amount of green plastic caps inside the connector and bent the 2 prongs inside (manufacturers defect). I straightened things out put it all back together and the brake like went off but stabilitrak and abs light remain.

I can't get my elm obd2 to read the codes they just wont show up I've tried torque, dash command and car gauge pro with no luck. I'm going to run over to autozone this evening and see if they can pull them up to see what the fudge is going on here.
Sorry for the lengthy read folks it had jus been one of those weekends for me....

 

[Sparky]

I found with Car Gauge Pro to pull ABS codes you have to do a "scan all" or it won't pull anything. Really weird program.

I drove mine to work today. Only driving it once maybe twice a week to keep fuel costs down. It is hard to argue 17mpg of the truck vs 37+ on the wife's Civic. Wife usually drives it to work these days but I missed my truck!

 

[dna59]

Not a fun day. Two months ago I replaced a 2 year old radiator that sprung a leak. Saturday the end of one sprung a leak. Just said to hell with it and redid the entire cooling system. I repaired the radiator for now until I can afford to replace that.

 

[smt 59]

Replaced both lower control arm assemblies today at my buddies shop, finally greasable lower ball joints, what a job that was. While all was apart and in the air I decided to replace all brakes with the brand new BrakeMotive parts I got a while back. Did the alignment as well. That’s all for now.

 

[smt 59]

Drove her and enjoyed it.

 

[Reprise]

Managed to get the Sierra in the garage - without having to remove the shelving along the back wall. To do it, I had to remove the front license plate...then manually lower the door, and push *outward* on it as various components came into contact with the bumper. Talk about tight (and lazy? LOL)

Eventually, I'll remove that shelving. For now, I want to get at least the front shocks / hub / ball joint done so I can swap out to new tires (& hopefully eliminate the front end shake) *before* being hounded...er...contacted... to pick up my trailer.
(I actually had to sign paperwork when dropping it off acknowledging storage charges if left 5 days past notification date. Funny how *I* don't get to charge if they make me wait more than 5 days to *bring* it to them!)

I suppose I'm in a mood tonight...or I need to get back on my meds...LMAO

 

[Mooseman]

Getting an oil change done on the TB at the (gasp!) dealer. $70 for a Dexos oil change, ACDelco filter and 15 point check, not a bad deal and no messing under the truck. It costs like $50 for 5L of good synth oil so is it really worth it doing it myself?

 

[Sparky]

IMO yes because I don't trust the dealer oil change grunts. Severely overtightened filters and crap, I shouldn't have to use a strap wrench or vice grips to unscrew the oil filter.

 

[Reprise]

Just finished 1 of 2 front shocks for the Sierra - happy with that for today.

Go ahead and laugh... I didn't break anything or hurt myself, servicing a brand new (to me) vehicle.

Actually, I did break my 7" ViseGrips (HF, not Irwin - which is now MIC, also), and had to stop, wash up, run and get another pair - my others weren't able to stand in properly to get the job done.

Note - With the torsion bar front suspension, the LCA has to be braced when swapping out shocks, as the mounted shock is the only thing that ends its travel. So make sure you put a jack or jack stand under it before removing the bolts. No, I didn't make that mistake - I did my research beforehand (another reason for my imitation of a turtle today). A jack is a little better, if you can swing it, because you can make height adjustments to get the bottom shock mount lined up w/ the shock, etc. Just make sure you put *something* underneath it.

Other than that, fairly straightforward, especially compared with what you go through to remove the front shock on the 360s. Was very surprised to find the lower shock bolt was a 13/16ths ... SAE? WTF? OMG FMR. Took awhile to figure out that size. Hopefully the rest of the truck isn't a mix / match of SAE & metric. I haven't worked on an SAE-sized vehicle of my own, since the 80's

Air filter was good - and I found out not to ever expect the pretty 'change indicator' to move, unless I blow into it. I haven't seen so much room in an engine compartment since my '70 Monte Carlo with a 350 SB and a missing fan shroud. I could literally crawl into the engine bay on that car, stand on the ground, and work on it. Can't wait till the 'must fix' things are done and I can start modding it - I'm seeing a set of long tube headers in this truck's future...lol. And a couple of broken exhaust manifold bolts, right now (with more to come, most likely!)

Lots of Rock Auto boxes everywhere. Xmas in July! (and I pay for it all in August...lol)
Felt sorry for the guy who got stuck carrying a box of rotors to my doorstep two days running.

Note to self: Must figure out better organizational system for tools - I spend waaaay too much time looking for them. Embarrassing to know what I've spent / got over the years, and what I readily have on hand at any given time. Need to pick up a dedicated set for the trailer; I know some of the things I was looking for today were in it...and it's currently 70 miles away

 

[HARDTRAILZ]

Last night I had mine out n about in town and had a guy stop me and ask if it would be at the 4x4 Jamboree this year. I told him if it was fixed by then i would try. Did find my spare steering rack last week so I should tear the thing down and redo the front finally.

 

[Reprise]

2nd front shock in. Much easier for the second one - about 90min or so of 'real' work.

Took a couple of pics of this side; will post a 'how-to' sometime this weekend.

Now to finalize a tire decision, and visit a couple of shops tomorrow.

Checked with the RV shop; parts are scheduled to arrive on Aug 3rd. Parts. Not 'ready for pickup'. Parts.

The one good thing about it is that I should have the Sierra at least ready to tow the trailer the 70mi home, by that time. Gotta clear the back wall of the garage first, though. That'll be my weekend project.

Now for a shower & a test drive

 

[littleblazer]

I now have powersteering and a fan clutch that doesn't sound like a semi.

The hayden (left) is quite a bit different than a real delco. A/C actually works better.

 

[Sparky]

Messed with my tailgate latch that wasn't latching very well. I would have to slam the tailgate shut a couple times to get it to actually latch at all. The latches themselves are fine, but the handle mechanism was all rusted and stiff. It uses steel arms with nylon washers between them and a rivet holds it all together. I guess I could drill the rivet out, get new nylon washers, and sand the rust off the arms to make them move freely again, but... Nah. Ordered a replacement latch handle that also has a lock on it. Sure, if someone really wanted to they could cut the cover to get into the bed, but this will at least prevent a passerby from just popping the tailgate open and pinching something I may have back there. It has never happened, but if I'm replacing the handle I might as well get one with a lock.

 

[Matt]

Replaced the upper ball joints. The Harbor Freight ball joint kit makes this job so much easier but I ended up farking the two new ball joints from Detroit Axle. The rubber boots were bulging out on both of them so when I installed them they just tore to shreds. Went to O'Reillys and got their version and didn't have an issue with them...O'Reillys it is next time even though they're a bit more than twice the price. Also noticed the boot on the drivers side CV has a small hole, so they will need to be replaced at some stage.

Also installed the "fog" lights in the bumper. I ended up making my own brackets (which are pretty rough) out of some flat steel so that the lights actually sit fairly flat.

 

[brianlibby791]

I now have powersteering and a fan clutch that doesn't sound like a semi.
View attachment 85324
The hayden (left) is quite a bit different than a real delco. A/C actually works better.

How can the A/C in that truck get any better?It already is ice cold.

The Duramax has power steering again. But now I blew out a brake line. Just ordered a set of dorman all stainless steel lines. One thing after another

 

[littleblazer]

How can the A/C in that truck get any better?It already is ice cold.

The Duramax has power steering again. But now I blew out a brake line. Just ordered a set of dorman all stainless steel lines. One thing after another

Luckily the ghetto cruiser has been damn near perfect except for overdrive.

 

[littleblazer]

Threw on a new set of wipers. Remember reading way back that 26 and 22 works so I tried that. It is so nice not looking at the top of the wipe pattern anymore.

 

[Sparky]

Tweaked the truck's tune some more after talking to someone about the ping on the 87 tune. Apparently the canned tune for my year truck does advance spark timing, and too far, so he suggested adjusting the 87 tune down a couple of degrees.

Also installed the new driver's door window switch module, a real AC Delco this time. My cleaned up original started screwing up again so instead of messing with it I just bought new. All works!

 

[xavierny25]

Last night I dug deeper into why I was getting an abs & stabilitrak light after replacing my hubs with a set of Detroit axle wheel hubs. Turns out that both of the ones that got sent to me had faulty wire connectors. The one that I replaced on the driver side was the main culprit as the 2 wires at the connector made contact with each other on the way in to the truck side of the connection. I yanked the wires with the prongs out of that connector and fitted then directly started the truck and the lights finally went out. After so much frustration I did the same to the passenger side taped it all up as neat as I could and called it a night.... What a pain in the nuts that ordeal was.

NOTE: if the wires are crossed in the connector you get 12V to both sides of the fuse blades when the fuse is removed in the engine compartment. Dont know why but thats how I really knew I had an issue..

 

[brianlibby791]

So @littleblazer and I just did the brake lines on my truck, now to just bleed them tomorrow after i get off work.

 

[Capote]

Tightened up the bracket for my intake, it loosened itself and was making such an annoying and loud tapping noise against my fender when sitting idle. Annoyed me so much today I pulled over and fixed it lol.

 

[littleblazer]

So @littleblazer and I just did the brake lines on my truck, now to just bleed them tomorrow after i get off work.

F... That... Truck...

 

[brianlibby791]

F... That... Truck...

Hey, watch it.

 

[littleblazer]

Cats on the Escalade.

 

[smt 59]

I now have powersteering and a fan clutch that doesn't sound like a semi.
View attachment 85324
The hayden (left) is quite a bit different than a real delco. A/C actually works better.

I changed mine out with a berh and happy with it.

 

[Blckshdw]

Had a recurrence of the annoying loose lift gate handle. After getting the LP pocket out, this thing fought with me for a good half hour before finally getting that pesky pin to thread and seat properly. Much cursing was done.



Several of the metal clips pulled loose from the panel, and were stuck in the gate. Got those yanked out with pliers, and managed to reshape the teeth enough to get them back onto the panel and tight. If history has shown me anything, I'll be doing this again in another 4 or 5 years from now.

 

[Sparky]

Huh, mine never did that. Maybe because the pin was too rusty to budge!

I replaced the rusty stiff tailgate handle on my truck with the new locking one. The tailgate latches so easily now, better even than when I got the truck originally. Very crisp "CLICK" from both latches when shutting it.

 

[WarGawd]

After years of doing without one at all (dropped in the water at a marina), I tripped over and pocketed two key fobs in two consecutive vehicles at the local U-pull. They were #1 and #2 and were both the correct part#/FCC ID# for my XL....Yay I now have two functioning remotes!

Also after years of procrastination, I finished off the defrost grid repair on my original rear glass, AND re-attached the HMSL and fairing.

While at the U-Pull place, I snagged two almost brand new Goodyear Assurance tires for $45!

I also replaced my oil drain plug cover tray - first time I've had one of those since I bought it 6 years ago.

 

[Martyelzz4]

I got my new AC Delco Shocks in from RockAuto today.. but I didn't get back home or various reasons until about 5 pm.. so since it was 100° here in Eastern Washington today.. I figured I'd wait until it got a little cooler, then I would go out and get the Saab jacked up and ready for the nice cool morning to install the shock. Well, I decided to check to see what I needed for wrenches.. 18mm... deep and standard.. I looked at the upper mount and started cussing GM until I noticed that the inside nut was attached to the frame. Hoping that all the miles that were in the rust belt did not make the nut break awake from the frame.. so.. I went ahead and changed shock. The shocks that came of were, obviously, not the original rear shocks.. as you will see in the picture.. they were pathetic .. no wonder I popped them while towing my Lincoln back from Pennsylvania.. a couple years ago.. yes.. I did know they were bad then.. but being retired I have to plan my purchases with the most important (to me) "fixes" first. I'll test drive it in the morning as right now I'm enjoying a Sam Adams Summer Ale with a shot of lime in it to get rid of the residual bitterness.. that Sam Adams seem to thing everyone should like.. Cheers! It's good to be home where everyone knows my name... .. there is so much rusting flaky crap on the old shocks that I can't even find the brand name.....

 

[Martyelzz4]

I was unable to find the brand on the old shocks anywhere.. top rubber shield... they spent too many years in the East Coast Rustbelt. The new gas AC Delco Professional shocks are great. The end of August .. new AC front Struts assemblies.... I also had to use an impact wrench at full 150 psi to get out the rear differential plug. Took 1 quart to fill it again. I was told by a PA inspection station that there was a slow pinion seal leak. no fluid showing on the differential now.. but I guess it was too low to leak anymore.. after 3 years... I have to clean off the rear cover to find out what size ring gear in this G86 limited slip before I buy parts.

 

[smt 59]

Changed out numbers 45 and 46 relays, bought them off of Amazon and wow half the cost of the dealership so got two.

 

[xavierny25]

rear drive shaft u-joints. What a pain in the az that was with GM's plastic injected u-joints. I also swapped out the tranny mount. "WARNING anyone who does this and does not use OEM part you will have to shave off some of the top bracket as it touches right where the transfer case mate with the tranny." I used the anchor brand and this is what I had to do for it to sit right.

I'm not 100% sure but doing the combination of these parts made the feel of shifting much smoother. It's like I can't even feel the shifts at all anymore. I should of done this 30k maybe even 40k miles ago.

 

[HARDTRAILZ]

FYI--I did not use OEM trans mount and did not have to modify anything, but do not know what brand i used. Something cheap of fleabay I think.

You might not want to make blanket statements if you do not have full experience with all the other mounts available

 

[xavierny25]

There are only 3 listed on RA I used the DEA on the tbss when we had to pull the tranny and we had to shave that one. I took a chance with the anchor brand and also had to shave some off for it to sit right. You possibly got lucky and got the acdelco or who ever makes the oe trans mount. I DONT BLANKET ish.