SnowBlazer
Member
Idk if I could do that on a full tank. But thanks again I have an 18 gal tank so it would never be possible.
I changed the rear lift gate and glass struts out. Much better!!
What did you do to your GMT today?
- Thread starter MAY03LT
- Start date
- Status
I changed the rear lift gate and glass struts out. Much better!!
littleblazer
Member
- Jul 6, 2014
- 9,267
Wanted to take the Trailblazer on today's trip, but I was told "oh you'll definitely make it in elliott, don't put the miles on your truck, elliott is a beast." I'm sitting here going "thanks for jinxing me, what's another 300 miles when I'm doing more than that weekly, and I still hate driving it." With my luck the fuel pump or starter is going to crap out and at least I keep tools in my truck. If it breaks on me I ain't fixing it because it's not my problem. I didn't want to take it. And if I hit traffic like I always do, my truck is on fumes by the time I get home. (5 hour trip turns into 9 hours) so with only 19 gallons in the smaller tank I have to keep that in mind too. (For those who don't know, my sister named the envoy elliott...)
If I break down some one come rescue me. I'll probably be in commack somewhere.
If I break down some one come rescue me. I'll probably be in commack somewhere.
Matt
Member
- Dec 2, 2011
- 4,032
Yesterday, changed the drivers side blend door actuator. What a c*&% of a job that was. 99° in the garage. Cut myself up on the metal bracket that's in front of it pretty good, but after farking around for about an hour I put power to it to move it so it lined up with the post and it slipped straight on.
Buttoned everything back up connected the battery again and let it do it's thing. Started the truck and I have nice cold air on the drivers side again.
Buttoned everything back up connected the battery again and let it do it's thing. Started the truck and I have nice cold air on the drivers side again.
tsmith1156
Member
SnowBlazer
Member
I did them by myself so that adds difficulty, especially right after hitting the gym. If you have someone to support the glass or lift gate (which ever you're replacing), it'll be a breeze. Just pop off the metal retainers with a flat head, pull the old strut off, and push the new one in.
I think I installed my gate ones upside-down, with the cartridge on the bottom but it works the same so I'm leaving it as is.
tsmith1156
Member
I did them by myself so that adds difficulty, especially right after hitting the gym. If you have someone to support the glass or lift gate (which ever you're replacing), it'll be a breeze. Just pop off the metal retainers with a flat head, pull the old strut off, and push the new one in.
I think I installed my gate ones upside-down, with the cartridge on the bottom but it works the same so I'm leaving it as is.
I'd like to replace them both just cause they look like crap and are rusting somehow. What brand did you go with?
Wooluf1952
Member
When I changed mine, I put a length of 2x4 in to hold the full gate up. The glass alone isn't bad, but the full hatch is a bitch without the lifts.
Mooseman
Moderator
Sparky
Member
- Dec 4, 2011
- 12,927
Analyzed the rub marks on my front mud flaps. I think if I want to retain flaps I'll need new ones that are shaped differently and mounted a bit differently. Thought about taking them off but I do like how they protect the doors/rockers from the worst of the stuff thrown from the tires.
SnowBlazer
Member
http://www.ebay.com/itm/141621526681
I thought the hatch was fine until I put the new ones in. Night and day difference. Oh and these have a 3 year warranty, I only buy things off ebay with a significant warranty because I know I won't revive a return marked as brand new. That has happened with big companies like Rock Auto.
littleblazer
Member
- Jul 6, 2014
- 9,267
Elliott drove very nicely actually. The leather conditioner made the seats noticeably softer and it was comfortable. My hatred isn't as bad toward it. Well that was until the starter decided to click.
tsmith1156
Member
$ Khalid ! 9130
Member
Took the dash apart on my Dads 05 Yukon. To "inspect" and ponder if he was ready to replace his bulbs in the Auto HVAC unit as all of them are gone. Sadly when putting it back together, I cracked it. I guess if not me it was going to crack someway or another. Soooo..... any suggestions to repair it? It is a minor one but I guess it will get larger the next time I take it off 
Annnnndddd I also went shopping :
http://gmtnation.com/forums/threads/khalid-9130-jha-2009-trailblazer-ls-build.15395/
Annnnndddd I also went shopping :
http://gmtnation.com/forums/threads/khalid-9130-jha-2009-trailblazer-ls-build.15395/
xavierny25
Member
2 weeks ago I put in upper control arms and a set of new wheel hubs.
While doing this I noticed my upper ball joints have boosted boots... Mevotech suck a__. TIme to order some moogs.
While doing this I noticed my upper ball joints have boosted boots... Mevotech suck a__. TIme to order some moogs.
Mounce
Member
Drove it 400 miles home. Ended up nearly a thousand miles added this weekend. Pretty lame gas mileage too, around 400 per tank, most driving was at 75-80 though, it does better at 70. Not complaining though, especially with how cheap gas is now.
Yes I know SES. Gas tank recall is waiting to be completed. Checked half way through the drive and again at the end, still the only code is p0445 pointing at the gas tank, glad there's no new ones.
Yes I know SES. Gas tank recall is waiting to be completed. Checked half way through the drive and again at the end, still the only code is p0445 pointing at the gas tank, glad there's no new ones.
$ Khalid ! 9130
Member
Perimeter Lighting Cap Mod was done two days ago
As always more info on the Build Thread :
http://gmtnation.com/forums/threads/khalid-9130-jha-2009-trailblazer-ls-build.15395/
As always more info on the Build Thread :
http://gmtnation.com/forums/threads/khalid-9130-jha-2009-trailblazer-ls-build.15395/
$ Khalid ! 9130
Member
Blckshdw
Moderator
Welp... Guess it's time for a relevant post from me in this thread... 
So this morning when I got to the office, and went to pull my sunshade across the windshield, it wouldn't latch properly. Kept slipping off and flying back across to the other side.
Upon closer look, the small plastic nipple had come partially out, and eventually all the way out when I tried to mess with it.
It dropped to the floor, so I left it there until I came back out for lunch. My water bottle has a large footprint, and doesn't fit in the big cup holder unless I take the rubber insert out, so I put that in the passenger seat. When I got out of the truck from lunch, I put the plastic nipple in the large cup holder spot, but forgot to put the insert in. So naturally, when I got home after work, it wasn't there anymore, slipping through one of the small gaps...
So setup the HV fan in the garage, grabbed my work light and tool box and proceeded to get the center console loose to do some hunting. I got SUPER lucky, once I was able to lift the console up a bit, I crossed my fingers it had fallen to the side and would fall further, ending up under one of the seats, rather than under the carpet in the transmission tunnel. Which was the case.
So got the sunshade fixed, and pressed the nipple back in carefully with some channel locks. Before replacing the gear shift lever, I realized I had a traction control shifter in my mod parts box for the longest time, so I ran back in to grab it. Didn't realize how much larger the handle was compared to the plain Jane one I had.
Noticed the set screw was in the front instead of the side, thought to check out the shifter post, and of course there was a provision for both.
Hadn't used the AC in the past few days, with the storm fronts coming through, but no rain while I needed to be on the road, I was able to have the windows down and enjoy the fresh air. Today was not the case, so I had the AC cranked up to 4 in the front, 2 in the rear, until it cooled off the cabin, then dropped it to 2/1 and it was nice and icy. Having a properly functioning AC system in FL is a beautiful thing!
So this morning when I got to the office, and went to pull my sunshade across the windshield, it wouldn't latch properly. Kept slipping off and flying back across to the other side.
Upon closer look, the small plastic nipple had come partially out, and eventually all the way out when I tried to mess with it.
It dropped to the floor, so I left it there until I came back out for lunch. My water bottle has a large footprint, and doesn't fit in the big cup holder unless I take the rubber insert out, so I put that in the passenger seat. When I got out of the truck from lunch, I put the plastic nipple in the large cup holder spot, but forgot to put the insert in. So naturally, when I got home after work, it wasn't there anymore, slipping through one of the small gaps...
So setup the HV fan in the garage, grabbed my work light and tool box and proceeded to get the center console loose to do some hunting. I got SUPER lucky, once I was able to lift the console up a bit, I crossed my fingers it had fallen to the side and would fall further, ending up under one of the seats, rather than under the carpet in the transmission tunnel. Which was the case.
So got the sunshade fixed, and pressed the nipple back in carefully with some channel locks. Before replacing the gear shift lever, I realized I had a traction control shifter in my mod parts box for the longest time, so I ran back in to grab it. Didn't realize how much larger the handle was compared to the plain Jane one I had.
Noticed the set screw was in the front instead of the side, thought to check out the shifter post, and of course there was a provision for both.
Hadn't used the AC in the past few days, with the storm fronts coming through, but no rain while I needed to be on the road, I was able to have the windows down and enjoy the fresh air. Today was not the case, so I had the AC cranked up to 4 in the front, 2 in the rear, until it cooled off the cabin, then dropped it to 2/1 and it was nice and icy. Having a properly functioning AC system in FL is a beautiful thing!
SnowBlazer
Member
Got my ACdelco engine mounts and spark plugs today. Can't wait to get them changed hopefully I can get a break this weekend to change them as the vibrations has been annoying the hell out it me. Damn hurricane Earl has left me with lots of frickin' insurance claims to adjust and settle.
Mounce
Member
Swapped turn signal bulbs in the dark. It's bad when you can pull the grill and headlights in the dark and swap bulbs then throw it all back together all within 10 minutes, think I've been under the hood too much lol.
SnowBlazer
Member
Is your grille broken? My crossbar is barely hanging onto the mesh portion because it goes off and on so much.
Mounce
Member
Replaced my crappy Anchor engine mounts with ACdelco ones. From new the Anchor ones vibrated like crazy and after 6 months they were already collapsed. Even worse the passenger side one had something loose inside and was rattling when I took it out. I had to cut off the non threaded top of the mounts to get the new ones in. I can say the 1.5hrs and $150usd was surely worth it. Truck feels brand new! Shall tackle the plugs tomorrow then next week or so my HPtuner programmer should be here.
Matt
Member
- Dec 2, 2011
- 4,032
Changed both hubs. Got the new breaker bar from HF and the passengers axle nut still didn't budge with heat, PB, swearing and me jumping on it. Finally went and saw a bloke and he zipped it off with a rattle gun...took 10 seconds tops. He nipped it back up so I could drive the 3 minutes home and wouldn't take any money from me.
Anyway, got them done and it looks like the drivers side was toast, grease on the front side of it, but all's good now.
Anyway, got them done and it looks like the drivers side was toast, grease on the front side of it, but all's good now.
Changed the oil, oil filter, knocked some dried dirt out of some nooks in the frame, and topped off the front differential. Appears there is a leak somewhere around the input shaft.
Changed my oil with some Full Synthetic Rotella T6 5W-40 and a Mobil 1 filter.
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Picked a hell of a day to mess around with my audio system, sweat my ass off for hours.
Before I could install my capacitor, I had to pre-charge it. Came with an easy to use charging tool too.
The charging tool came with a built-in resistor. Not sure if it was provided by the manufacturer or SonicElectronix.com, but very handy. Saved from tracking down a resistor or using a 12v test light while charging.
The built-in distribution block made install pretty quick. I was able to use the ground I had for my amp on the capacitor then run another ground wire from the capacitor to the amp. Cut another 6" piece of red power wire to run from the capacitor to the amp. The sub sounds strong and the best part is no more dimming lights
The vibrations from the sub box was vibrating my rear quarter panel and was quite annoying. Used the sound deadening/vibration absorbing material I ordered to line the back side of the sub box and also lined the edges of the plastic cover that goes over the sub box. The material was easy to work with, but the curves and crevasses of the sub box made it time consuming. Had to match up multiple pieces.
The material took care of all vibrations and the bass sounds clear and solid. Should have done this when I first installed the sub and box.
Before I could install my capacitor, I had to pre-charge it. Came with an easy to use charging tool too.
The charging tool came with a built-in resistor. Not sure if it was provided by the manufacturer or SonicElectronix.com, but very handy. Saved from tracking down a resistor or using a 12v test light while charging.
The built-in distribution block made install pretty quick. I was able to use the ground I had for my amp on the capacitor then run another ground wire from the capacitor to the amp. Cut another 6" piece of red power wire to run from the capacitor to the amp. The sub sounds strong and the best part is no more dimming lights
The vibrations from the sub box was vibrating my rear quarter panel and was quite annoying. Used the sound deadening/vibration absorbing material I ordered to line the back side of the sub box and also lined the edges of the plastic cover that goes over the sub box. The material was easy to work with, but the curves and crevasses of the sub box made it time consuming. Had to match up multiple pieces.
The material took care of all vibrations and the bass sounds clear and solid. Should have done this when I first installed the sub and box.
Blckshdw
Moderator
Tried copy @Paul Bell to pop loose the rear center stud for the 3rd row seats, but the stud snapped off near the base instead.
For now, that's fine, as it's out of the way when I have stuff back there, and the hole is still sealed from any water intrusion. Will go buy some cobalt drill bits and see if I can drill out that stud, or at least get a pilot hole going so I can use a hole saw on the sheet metal.
For now, that's fine, as it's out of the way when I have stuff back there, and the hole is still sealed from any water intrusion. Will go buy some cobalt drill bits and see if I can drill out that stud, or at least get a pilot hole going so I can use a hole saw on the sheet metal.
$ Khalid ! 9130
Member
My weekend was a really busy one. Just sadly not for my Car. Took out both the Head Unit and Auto HVAC unit on my dads Yukon to replace all the fried bulbs. Technically all of them. On Friday we did the Auto HVAC, pretty straight forward due to the fact that my dad went with the 12V bulbs. The blue jackets wouldn't fit so we just left them. Saturday was the head unit, pretty straight forward. Sadly we were out of bulbs so about ¾ of it if lit up nicely. Same issue with the blue jackets. Has to leave them out. I also finished and installed my secret led project which I'll post ok the led mod thread
A slight difference in color. I would mind but my dads ok with it. As long as he's happy
Teaser :
I'll post more about it in the Led Mod Thread
A slight difference in color. I would mind but my dads ok with it. As long as he's happy
Teaser :
I'll post more about it in the Led Mod Thread
Paul Bell
Member
- Aug 16, 2014
- 460
Tried copy @Paul Bell to pop loose the rear center stud for the 3rd row seats, but the stud snapped off near the base instead.
Your bolts must have been better welded in. How many did that? At least you won't have to seal the hole!
Blckshdw
Moderator
I only tried the center one, since that's the one that's "in the way" when I put stuff back there, I was planning to leave the ones on the sides alone, at least for now.
Blckshdw
Moderator
Picked up some cutting oil and these cobalt drill bits from Lowes, and got to work on that busted seat stud.
*linky*
Read some mixed reviews but decided to use caution as I saw in some online reading. I had dimpled the stud yesterday with a regular bit, so I applied a drop of cutting oil there. One drop on each cutting edge of the bit, and went at it with medium drill speed, and medium to light pressure.
Started with a 1/8" bit, and it only took a minute or 2 before I punched through.
Stepped up to the 5/32" and then 7/32" bits, same technique, and am quite happy with how smoothly it went.
Threw my work light under the truck, just to check clearance, since I wasn't sure how close to the spare tire it was. All good!
So now I have a new idea. Instead of drilling out the stud completely, since obviously it's welded in there really good, I'm thinking of tapping the stud, so I can thread in a bolt from the top side, and not have to worry about somehow securing a nut somewhere to make the combo come together. I figure it would be much less work, and be a lot faster to make the change when needed. If that goes well, I could very well break off the other 2 studs, drill and tap them as well. Then whatever bolt choice I go with, could make the weather seal for me. Done deal!
And of course, anytime there's any commotion and an open garage door, these 2 show up to come see what's going on.
*linky*
Read some mixed reviews but decided to use caution as I saw in some online reading. I had dimpled the stud yesterday with a regular bit, so I applied a drop of cutting oil there. One drop on each cutting edge of the bit, and went at it with medium drill speed, and medium to light pressure.
Started with a 1/8" bit, and it only took a minute or 2 before I punched through.
Stepped up to the 5/32" and then 7/32" bits, same technique, and am quite happy with how smoothly it went.
Threw my work light under the truck, just to check clearance, since I wasn't sure how close to the spare tire it was. All good!
So now I have a new idea. Instead of drilling out the stud completely, since obviously it's welded in there really good, I'm thinking of tapping the stud, so I can thread in a bolt from the top side, and not have to worry about somehow securing a nut somewhere to make the combo come together. I figure it would be much less work, and be a lot faster to make the change when needed.
If that goes well, I could very well break off the other 2 studs, drill and tap them as well. Then whatever bolt choice I go with, could make the weather seal for me. Done deal! And of course, anytime there's any commotion and an open garage door, these 2 show up to come see what's going on.
Mounce
Member
Resonator delete. Finally cut that rattling piece of shit off. Much better now with no rattling, was getting to an embarrassing level. Took me about an hour, Sawzall couldn't get in there at the right angle to cut it straight so I had to cut it at a few different places to make the angled cuts connect.
Gonna work on getting a piece of pipe to extend it out the back now.And oh, didn't help that my floor jack isn't acting right, had to use the sketchy stock jack to lift it.
Sparky
Member
- Dec 4, 2011
- 12,927
Don't know your problem, I reached in there with a hacksaw through the rear wheel well without even jacking the back end up when I lopped mine off 
Mounce
Member
Swapped rear axles between my truck and the Ranier. I'm now the happy owner of a 3.73 rear end, been wanting to do a swap for a very long time!
HARDTRAILZ
Moderator
- Nov 18, 2011
- 49,665
This weekend she got driven a bit and re4ally noticed that it is time to swap some new brake pads up front.
- Status