SnowBlazer
Member
His accent lights are green, other than that it's blue on black. He used to have his hood vinyl wrapped in blue flake. I loved it, looked good.
What did you do to your GMT today?
- Thread starter MAY03LT
- Start date
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Trkdrvremt
Member
[QUOTE
Oh I wish mine were wired for it, I want the turn signal mirrors[/QUOTE]
Turn signal mirrors should be plug and play...
Oh I wish mine were wired for it, I want the turn signal mirrors[/QUOTE]
Turn signal mirrors should be plug and play...
tsmith1156
Member
His accent lights are green, other than that it's blue on black. He used to have his hood vinyl wrapped in blue flake. I loved it, looked good.
Hmm I didn't know that
Turn signal mirrors should be plug and play...[/QUOTE]
Even if the stock mirrors weren't turn signal ones?
Trkdrvremt
Member
Even if the stock mirrors weren't turn signal ones?[/QUOTE]
Yep... Just buy the mirrors they come with the wires to plug into the ddm... Then hit up @TXBlazer for the led inserts...
Mooseman
Moderator
Please stay on topic. Any technical discussions should be brought up in a technical thread.
I ordered a new head locating dowel at the dealer.
$ Khalid ! 9130
Member
Got my Wireless Charger installed. Not the best or cleanest install. But it works.
Pics in a while due to yall know why by now
Update:
Here ya go:
My Brother wanted to contribute So he made a cover to put on top the charger when not in use to keep prying eyes away from the wireless charger's own box!
I also FINALLY got he GM badges of excellence from the junk yard. First car I saw with the badges I took em
Here are some pics of my wiring for the wireless charger:
And my Bluetooth Adapter is hidden in the side as well. This gives me a clutter free Center console
All I have to do is insert my phone in the elastic band and it prevents my phone from flying around in the car due to the way I drive. I will try to get a Black elastic band to fit in with the interior. One thing I'd really like to do is make the rear cigarette lighter plug turn off with the RAP system. Any ideas?!
Pics in a while due to yall know why by now
Update:
Here ya go:
My Brother wanted to contribute So he made a cover to put on top the charger when not in use to keep prying eyes away from the wireless charger's own box!
I also FINALLY got he GM badges of excellence from the junk yard. First car I saw with the badges I took em
Here are some pics of my wiring for the wireless charger:
And my Bluetooth Adapter is hidden in the side as well. This gives me a clutter free Center console
All I have to do is insert my phone in the elastic band and it prevents my phone from flying around in the car due to the way I drive. I will try to get a Black elastic band to fit in with the interior. One thing I'd really like to do is make the rear cigarette lighter plug turn off with the RAP system. Any ideas?!
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smt 59
Member
Installed the 3" lift level kit and then an alignment.
I need to now find specs for the lifted truck for caster/camber etc. As the tech only had factory specs.
Rear end is all adjustable with all Maasive speed system mods, need those as well.
I need to now find specs for the lifted truck for caster/camber etc. As the tech only had factory specs.
Rear end is all adjustable with all Maasive speed system mods, need those as well.
Blckshdw
Moderator
Started taking out non critical parts on the dash and steering column, in prep for some wiring harness modding this weekend.
Dude, this was in the post RIGHT in front of yours!!! 
Dude, this was in the post RIGHT in front of yours!!!
smt 59
Member
Installed the 3" lift level kit and then an alignment.
I need to now find specs for the lifted truck for caster/camber etc. As the tech only had factory specs.
Rear end is all adjustable with all Maasive speed system mods, need those as well.
Found the specs here and found they are factory! WTF is wrong with with these techs?
$ Khalid ! 9130
Member
Started taking out non critical parts on the dash and steering column, in prep for some wiring harness modding this weekend.
Sorry but I don't quite get what you mean by that. Please enlighten me
Blckshdw
Moderator
This isn't a question and answer thread, it's way too easy for things like that to get buried in here, so technical questions should be in technical forums/threads. Your build thread would be a better spot for a question like that.
Blckshdw
Moderator
Got the green light from work to stay home on Friday too, so figured why not start some long overdue modding a couple days early! 
So yeah, this happened!
Got the steering wheel off, had some strong words for the snap ring that wanted to not cooperate with my snap ring pliers.
Had to swap over the rear steering wheel cover, and horn switch.
Old clock spring is out, compared it to the DIC clockspring, and started mapping which wires I needed to de-pin.
Spent a good hour combing through the wiring diagrams to figure out what this straggling pink wire was for. Turns out that's the 12V reference for the radio control buttons. And the green wire isn't for the DIC function that also has a green wire (the green DIC wire gets the purple one from the clock spring
) it goes to the aftermarket radio control module.
That will do it for tonight, just realized I'm almost out of my preferred crimp connectors, time to spend more money! Damned mod bug!
So yeah, this happened!
Got the steering wheel off, had some strong words for the snap ring that wanted to not cooperate with my snap ring pliers.
Had to swap over the rear steering wheel cover, and horn switch.
Old clock spring is out, compared it to the DIC clockspring, and started mapping which wires I needed to de-pin.
Spent a good hour combing through the wiring diagrams to figure out what this straggling pink wire was for. Turns out that's the 12V reference for the radio control buttons. And the green wire isn't for the DIC function that also has a green wire (the green DIC wire gets the purple one from the clock spring
) it goes to the aftermarket radio control module.
That will do it for tonight, just realized I'm almost out of my preferred crimp connectors, time to spend more money! Damned mod bug!
You should totally make a write-up, just saying buddyGot the green light from work to stay home on Friday too, so figured why not start some long overdue modding a couple days early!
So yeah, this happened!
Got the steering wheel off, had some strong words for the snap ring that wanted to not cooperate with my snap ring pliers.
Old clock spring is out, compared it to the DIC clockspring, and started mapping which wires I needed to de-pin.
Spent a good hour combing through the wiring diagrams to figure out what this straggling pink wire was for. Turns out that's the 12V reference for the radio control buttons. And the green wire isn't for the DIC function that also has a green wire (the green DIC wire gets the purple one from the clock spring
That will do it for tonight, just realized I'm almost out of my preferred crimp connectors, time to spend more money! Damned mod bug!
Blckshdw
Moderator
Made a little more progress today. Got the buttons lit up and tested in the truck. Extended some of the wiring on the clock spring to reach some signal sources that I needed to tap, and modded the connectors I had previously for the DIC functions to work with the clock spring instead of the momentary buttons from before.
I had a donated PAC SWI-PS radio control module and tried to test that out. As soon as the radio came on, the volume started increasing on it's own. I would press the volume down button on the steering wheel, and it would turn back down, but when I let go, it would go back up. Disconnected the clock spring from the module, but the volume STILL went up. 
Hit the reset button and it stopped. Looked up the programming instructions and tried to reprogram it, but no dice. Now it won't work at all. Too tired, will mess with that again in the morning. Locked down the steering wheel, so at least the truck is drivable now, in case I need to go somewhere on short notice this weekend.
I thought about it, but Roadie has a good bit of this already written up in his DIC clock spring repair thread, which I used as a guide.
I had a donated PAC SWI-PS radio control module and tried to test that out. As soon as the radio came on, the volume started increasing on it's own.
I would press the volume down button on the steering wheel, and it would turn back down, but when I let go, it would go back up. Disconnected the clock spring from the module, but the volume STILL went up. Hit the reset button and it stopped. Looked up the programming instructions and tried to reprogram it, but no dice. Now it won't work at all. Too tired, will mess with that again in the morning. Locked down the steering wheel, so at least the truck is drivable now, in case I need to go somewhere on short notice this weekend.
You should totally make a write-up, just saying buddy
I thought about it, but Roadie has a good bit of this already written up in his DIC clock spring repair thread, which I used as a guide.
smt 59
Member
Minor maintenance, pulled wheels checked brakes, greased all parts that have grease nipples, touched up red paint on calipers and re-torqued wheel spacers. Checked fluids and topped up where necessary.
Beer and pool time now.
Beer and pool time now.
-Fixed a vacuum leak around the intake coupler; it was making the idle slightly rough surprisingly.
-Added a breather filter to the valve cover. Should make a big difference next time I go to clean my throttle body since I got rid of my vacuum line going to the intake.
-Added a breather filter to the valve cover. Should make a big difference next time I go to clean my throttle body since I got rid of my vacuum line going to the intake.
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Mooseman
Moderator
Yesterday, more progress on the 5.3. After some reading, swapped the stock timing chain damper with an '07+ tensioner as I thought the new timing chain set was a little loose and wanted to eliminate that as a possible noise source. Put the oil pump back on and McGyvered a bolt and washer setup for the pickup tube at the pump since I didn't remove the oil pan and couldn't reuse the original retainer bolt hole. Cleaned up and installed the timing chain cover and damper.
Progress is slow as I do have work, family life, a bad back and just recently, sprained my ankle. Hope to get the heads on today, which will be a bitch to use the torque angle gauge with stuff in the way.
Progress is slow as I do have work, family life, a bad back and just recently, sprained my ankle. Hope to get the heads on today, which will be a bitch to use the torque angle gauge with stuff in the way.
Blckshdw
Moderator
Since I had most of my dash dismantled, figured it was a good a time as any to replace some bad LEDs. One in the headlight switch, 2 in the cluster, 2 in the HVAC controls, 1 in the Homelink module and one of the quarter glass switches. Didn't realize how many LEDs I STILL had leftover from that massive batch that I bought like 5 years ago 
Good way to start the day though
Next up, go back and mess with the radio control module and try to get it programmed to work with the steering wheel again.
Good way to start the day though Next up, go back and mess with the radio control module and try to get it programmed to work with the steering wheel again.
Mooseman
Moderator
Got the heads on. The torque angle gauge I got was a total POS and not very useful on vehicle so I basically just marked the bolts with a marker and went by sight. Broke the temp sensor so had to run quick to get another one because everything is closed tomorrow. Not that it will matter as I won't have time to work on it tomorrow.
therealsethallen
Member
Rolled 155k miles today and figures it might be a great idea to change out the diff oil. Magnet was a little gunky with metal bits but not too bad. Then I made it blue. Should have painted the bolts yellow like the Swedish flag.
bad.
bad.
- Jul 22, 2015
- 2,724
I finally (!) finished my Transgo shift kit tonight (sans Corvette servo, as I saw no way to drop the trans enough to change it out with the passenger side cat in the way.) Over 90% of the time I spent on it was dealing with a pan bolt that I snapped off during disassembly - had it not been for that, I estimate I'd have finished in about the same time as most others here (about 2 days, from what I see).
Test drive tomorrow morning - fingers crossed!
Test drive tomorrow morning - fingers crossed!
Rewired my grill LED strips, the connections corroded, the new setup has better connectivity and water resistance. Also washed the rig today
smt 59
Member
Took her back to have the alignment done properly, got it all within factory spec even with the 3" lift, the tech actually new how to do all the adjustments. Took two of them over an hour to get it done, very impressed.
- Jul 22, 2015
- 2,724
Put my approx 1yr old battery on a charger - it was so dead I couldn't get the key back to the lock position to pull it out. Tried jumping it from my other car first - no dice.
2hrs after the charger has started, I'm still looking at 0% charge, and assuming the battery has sulfated - at least, I hope that's the case. Otherwise, it looks like new battery time.
Needless to say, there will be no test drive of the newly installed shift kit today
2hrs after the charger has started, I'm still looking at 0% charge, and assuming the battery has sulfated - at least, I hope that's the case. Otherwise, it looks like new battery time.
Needless to say, there will be no test drive of the newly installed shift kit today
smt 59
Member
Put my approx 1yr old battery on a charger - it was so dead I couldn't get the key back to the lock position to pull it out. Tried jumping it from my other car first - no dice.
2hrs after the charger has started, I'm still looking at 0% charge, and assuming the battery has sulfated - at least, I hope that's the case. Otherwise, it looks like new battery time.
Needless to say, there will be no test drive of the newly installed shift kit today
Time for a new battery, good times.
- Jul 22, 2015
- 2,724
Oh, there is - 4yr - and I have a scanned copy of the receipt. Just a pain to take it out (especially out of the 'Voy), drag it down to the store, wait for the load test to be conducted, etc.
Not looking forward to hearing those actuators again, either - last time I got lucky, and they found their way home in about a week and a half. If I'm lucky enough to have them (eventually) re-calibrate a second time successfully, I'm buying lottery tickets.
smt 59
Member
Most of the warranties are pro rated and they usually don't have the exact same battery again so there are out of pocket expenses. Depends on the vendor though.
Blckshdw
Moderator
The bug just won't stop... Decided to get started on my power folding mirror kill switch relocation mod. Had the latching button for a minute, just needed to drill the hole in the headlight housing and figure out how I wanted to light it.
Instead of running wires to the exterior of the housing, decided to tap into the parking light illumination signal at the solder joint, as well as the ground right next to it. Used a pair of .1" push connectors, stripped the insulators off (couldn't put the back on with them in place), and soldered the wires to them (crimps weren't very solid without the insulators and the small gauge wire)
Ended up routing the wires below the bottom edge of the circuit board, as there's a gap, along the back side of the board so the wires didn't get in the way of the switch mechanics, or the LEDs, and over to the open area below the fog light button where I mounted my button.
Test at 8V put a smile on my face. Muy bueno!
So next need to relocate the wires to my existing kill switch, up to the headlight switch area. Might do that later this week
Instead of running wires to the exterior of the housing, decided to tap into the parking light illumination signal at the solder joint, as well as the ground right next to it. Used a pair of .1" push connectors, stripped the insulators off (couldn't put the back on with them in place), and soldered the wires to them (crimps weren't very solid without the insulators and the small gauge wire)
Ended up routing the wires below the bottom edge of the circuit board, as there's a gap, along the back side of the board so the wires didn't get in the way of the switch mechanics, or the LEDs, and over to the open area below the fog light button where I mounted my button.
Test at 8V put a smile on my face.
Muy bueno!
So next need to relocate the wires to my existing kill switch, up to the headlight switch area. Might do that later this week
shovenose
Member
On my 99 Suburban I changed the cap and rotor, cleaned the MAF sensor, and half-assedly cleaned the throttle body (didn't remove it, will do that next time, as it was really really dirty and now it's only half as dirty). I was not impressed with the new ACDelco cap as the casting quality didn't seem as good as the generic gray parts-store one that was on there. Oh well, it works. Anyway, still has the ever so slight roughness/miss that I can hear and feel but no codes or anything. I think plugs, wires, air filter, and proper throttle body cleaning will be next, and if it still does it I'll start saving for intake gasket and new fuel spider.
Njg425
Member
I stuck in Yitamotor 120w 6000k led low beams last week and did the simple quad beam mod today. The lights are fantastic! I do a lot of mountain road driving at night and the led upgrade is just perfect. I haven't driven at night with the quad beams yet but everything points to that mod also working flawlessly.
Replaced my Hayden fan clutch for a Behr one. Sooo much quieter now. I guess the sever duty classification on the Hayden is why it was louder. Also got my replica Denali grille installed.
RTTBLT1
Member
Off to PCM of NC it goes...
Down for about a week 
...but I think it will be worth it.
Down for about a week ...but I think it will be worth it.
Went out at lunch break and had a no crank condition. Starter took a crap @ 196k. Better that it happened on lunch break then 5 o'clock, that would have sucked. I don't know if any of the OGs remember the up top/fenderwell/underneath debates but this was 100% up top.
smt 59
Member
dkvasnicka
Member
Filled it's tank with 93 (US octane rating) gas with some valve/injector-cleaning additives. I don't think I can feel any change in engine power/sound because I was knock-less before anyway and I seriously doubt this engine & ECU can make use of that many octanes... I'll probably be doing this once in a while instead of manually pouring injector cleaners into the tank. We'll see.
Sparky
Member
- Dec 4, 2011
- 12,927
New center cap decals. Pardon the filthy truck, they recently re-chipped the road I take to work every day so it is really dusty.
SnowBlazer
Member
Yesterday was the left ball joint. Didn't fix popping. Will address further tomorrow. Today, was Detroit Axle hubs and front brakes. My pads looked like they were only half used but they were squeaking like I had zero pad left. Maybe the wear bar wasn't seated correctly? idk its done now though!! 
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