xavierny25
Member
Thanks! Actually didn't have to because the Voy is lowered. I did have to replace the u-joint.
What did you do to your GMT today? [Part II]
- Thread starter Mooseman
- Start date
flyboy2610
Member
Colorful.Rear differential swap completed.View attachment 114443
Polished up the headlights since it's darker in the morning heading to work and I'm tired of looking at them all sun burnt. I used leftovers from Meguires headlight polishing kits and their spray coating. Turned out pretty good.
And since I'm playing with lights, decided I would finally add the fog lights I've been holding on to since I scrapped my 02 TB.
First cut out the "I'm too cheap to buy an LT" hole fillers.
Then took the cut out from the old bumper with the fog light pocket and trimmed it to the edge.
Test fitted from behind. Because of the bumper frame, I had to pull on the bumper cover for room and I broke that plastic thing that holds the cover to the frame on the right side. The left side I was able to disconnect it without breaking it but there was an unused bracket in the way that a little bending took care of (just thinking about it, could have been the siren bracket from its previous career).
Used some contact cement to glue the pockets onto the bumper from behind.
After a little drying time, the fog lights went in.
Unless you look really closely, you can't tell it's not stock. Just looks like it's supposed to be a black pocket. Just have the wiring to work on. It's possible the plugs are there, just have to look. If not, I'll figure something out later.
So today's work:
And since I'm playing with lights, decided I would finally add the fog lights I've been holding on to since I scrapped my 02 TB.
First cut out the "I'm too cheap to buy an LT" hole fillers.
Then took the cut out from the old bumper with the fog light pocket and trimmed it to the edge.
Test fitted from behind. Because of the bumper frame, I had to pull on the bumper cover for room and I broke that plastic thing that holds the cover to the frame on the right side. The left side I was able to disconnect it without breaking it but there was an unused bracket in the way that a little bending took care of (just thinking about it, could have been the siren bracket from its previous career).
Used some contact cement to glue the pockets onto the bumper from behind.
After a little drying time, the fog lights went in.
Unless you look really closely, you can't tell it's not stock. Just looks like it's supposed to be a black pocket. Just have the wiring to work on. It's possible the plugs are there, just have to look. If not, I'll figure something out later.
So today's work:
BrianF
Member
Well, like a procrastinating idiot, I got sidetracked before ordering the waterpump foe the Trailblazer. Went to order and no more OE Acdelco. Well shit boys, realizing I am in more of a time crunch than I hoped. The dealer said OE is discontinued but they got some Acdelco version. So I snagged one of their Chinese made ones along with two gallons of Dexcool.
Swap went well for a couple reasons, one being I did this job 11 years ago and in doing so, used antiseize on the bolts and prebroke the rad shroud.
Two hours in and out. That included breaking one of those stupid constant tension clamps on the lower hose. It was half on so I used a stainless clamp to finish. She used just shy of two gallons and I got it to operating temp. I'll check levels and leaks tomorrow.
The old pump had quite a bit of play so it was on its last legs and I need to start daily driving it by month end.
Swap went well for a couple reasons, one being I did this job 11 years ago and in doing so, used antiseize on the bolts and prebroke the rad shroud.
Two hours in and out. That included breaking one of those stupid constant tension clamps on the lower hose. It was half on so I used a stainless clamp to finish. She used just shy of two gallons and I got it to operating temp. I'll check levels and leaks tomorrow.
The old pump had quite a bit of play so it was on its last legs and I need to start daily driving it by month end.
Attachments
Yesterday was my pre-winter maintenance. The Caprice has never had the coolant changed so at 13 years old, it was due, even though it only has 127k KM. It looked more kinda pink than orange. The Aussies know how to make it easier for maintenance with a bottom drain plug in the radiator that's accessible through the lower plastic cover, which I only noticed AFTER removing the cover. The overflow tank was trickier to drain as it's buried in the fender. I used a hand sanitizer pump on the hose to pump it out, put some new Dexcool in it, pumped it out some more and then refilled it. That tank is so inaccessible that it has a dipstick on the cap to check the level. Refilled and burped the system. Then changed the oil and filter (Wix XP). Still have to switch the tires to the junk Goodyears on the steel rims before putting it in storage, likely next weekend. Also want to bring it to get it washed and cleaned this week.
Then the Sierra got an oil change with the ACDelco 0w20 DexosD and a Wix filter. OLM was at 37% but I usually change it at about that much life left, which comes to about 8k KM. Being diesel, it's always black. The fuel filter was at 25% so changed it before the winter since I don't have a garage to do it in. It wasn't that dirty at all and no water in the trap. It was just slightly beige from the new white. I guess the fuel I've been getting is good quality. It will need a new set of tires before winter as they're down to the wear bars. The Cooper AT3's lasted about 65k KM. Looking at maybe getting a set of Nokian Outpost NAT tires which are all-weather, meaning they are true winter rated but can be run all year, same as the Coopers. I liked not having to switch to winter tires saving trouble and cost.
Then the Sierra got an oil change with the ACDelco 0w20 DexosD and a Wix filter. OLM was at 37% but I usually change it at about that much life left, which comes to about 8k KM. Being diesel, it's always black. The fuel filter was at 25% so changed it before the winter since I don't have a garage to do it in. It wasn't that dirty at all and no water in the trap. It was just slightly beige from the new white. I guess the fuel I've been getting is good quality. It will need a new set of tires before winter as they're down to the wear bars. The Cooper AT3's lasted about 65k KM. Looking at maybe getting a set of Nokian Outpost NAT tires which are all-weather, meaning they are true winter rated but can be run all year, same as the Coopers. I liked not having to switch to winter tires saving trouble and cost.
BrianF
Member
And that reminds me, I also found the hvac fan not working correctly. Setting 5 doesn't work. So I need to pull the resister pack out for a look.
She also needs a new set of tires. I was thinking of those AT3s. I ran a set for a couple of years on my 1500. Back in 2014 or so. We towed heavy and they looked like they wore a bit fast. We traded the truck in so I never got a full run. A buddy runs them on his F350 and loves them. These are the newer XP or XT or whatever version they make. @Mooseman what is your opinion on them? I run the Cooper Discovery Rugged Treks on my 3500 and so far they have exceeded my expectations.
She also needs a new set of tires. I was thinking of those AT3s. I ran a set for a couple of years on my 1500. Back in 2014 or so. We towed heavy and they looked like they wore a bit fast. We traded the truck in so I never got a full run. A buddy runs them on his F350 and loves them. These are the newer XP or XT or whatever version they make. @Mooseman what is your opinion on them? I run the Cooper Discovery Rugged Treks on my 3500 and so far they have exceeded my expectations.
BrianF
Member
BrianF
Member
Fuse 35 was good. Pulled the resister pack and found some melting around the pin for fan setting 5. Ohmed it out with the multimeter and it tested fine. So there was some light melting in the connector. Cleaned it out, compressed it in a bit and used an old cheap trick of some folded fine copper wire. Fan works great now. Ran it on 5 for some time with no issues.
There was a few drops of coolant on the floor this morning. Could be residual from the puddle on the skid plate as nothing found in and around the pump.
I then took some time to adjust the driver door again. As a recap for the masses, this guy I know, who's name rhymes with Ryan, backed into a fence post with the driver door propped open. This was back in 2021 and it took some bending to get the door to close but it was never really good. So I Jerry rigged some straps around the hinges and attached it to the skid steer boom. I gave her some love taps and voila, the door opens and closes damn near like new.
Took my 14 year old daughter out for some driving lessons afterwards. She did great and sure likes the old Trailblazer. Pretty sure both kids came home from the hospital in the Trailblazer.
There was a few drops of coolant on the floor this morning. Could be residual from the puddle on the skid plate as nothing found in and around the pump.
I then took some time to adjust the driver door again. As a recap for the masses, this guy I know, who's name rhymes with Ryan, backed into a fence post with the driver door propped open. This was back in 2021 and it took some bending to get the door to close but it was never really good. So I Jerry rigged some straps around the hinges and attached it to the skid steer boom. I gave her some love taps and voila, the door opens and closes damn near like new.
Took my 14 year old daughter out for some driving lessons afterwards. She did great and sure likes the old Trailblazer. Pretty sure both kids came home from the hospital in the Trailblazer.
They lasted 65k KM and that was towing our 7k trailer occasionally. Liked the ride and winter traction was good. I don't know if the wear is on-par to others. Thinking of trying the Nokians because my wife is part-Finnish so anything related to Finland, she approves
Apparently the Coopers have been updated.
BrianF
Member
I knew they had updated the AT3 truck tires but on the Cooper site, they have changed it a bit more for the Trailblazer and renamed it. I'll see what the shop can get.
BrianF
Member
P0412 — 2006 Chevy Truck TrailBlazer 4WD L6-4.2L VIN S Service Manual | Operation CHARM
Detailed repair manual for the 2006 Chevy Truck TrailBlazer 4WD L6-4.2L VIN S.
charm.li
P0418 — 2006 Chevy Truck TrailBlazer 4WD L6-4.2L VIN S Service Manual | Operation CHARM
Detailed repair manual for the 2006 Chevy Truck TrailBlazer 4WD L6-4.2L VIN S.
charm.li
BrianF
Member
Forgot to mention, my air pump has been removed for several years. She died and caused a parasitic draw. Never had the thing tuned to remove it.
christo829
Member
Cat back exhaust and these odd little bump stops. I had a garage replace my exhaust a few years ago in order to pass inspection, but they used an aluminized set. It rusted out. So got stainless this time. Couldn't quite arrange the resonator delete, so just went back to stock design.
Discovered that I'm missing a few hold downs for the heat shield, so it was riding on top of about 2/3 of the old muffler. I'll go get those later today.
Also discovered two of my stabilizer bar linkages are wobbly. Project for another day, since I think they'll have to soak for awhile unless I want to try to cut them off. But not gonna do that until I have the replacements in hand.
Those bump stops appear to have been original. Almost looked like they'd been burned! The new ones look too shiny/clean...
Cheers-
Chris
Discovered that I'm missing a few hold downs for the heat shield, so it was riding on top of about 2/3 of the old muffler. I'll go get those later today.
Also discovered two of my stabilizer bar linkages are wobbly. Project for another day, since I think they'll have to soak for awhile unless I want to try to cut them off. But not gonna do that until I have the replacements in hand.
Those bump stops appear to have been original. Almost looked like they'd been burned! The new ones look too shiny/clean...
Cheers-
Chris
Attachments
xavierny25
Member
Yeah, well that happened. Lucky for me my brother has a shop and he's hired someone who could weld it back in. Replaced the bushings, sleeves and bolts packed in some fresh grease and that corner is all good again. I'll be doin the other side at home tomorrow since I won't be needing to weld anything back in or at least I think I don't have to weld anything back in. 
I've also ordered up some motor mounts and lower ball joints which I'll try to get to tomorrow if I have enough time/daylight.
Attachments
xavierny25
Member
Found this before I even started working on it. ABS wire to the hub was siting on the exhaust manifold. No codes and wires seem okay, I'll let if fly till I order up that male and female connector 
As luck would have it 1of the welded nuts for passenger upper control arm is spinning so I'll have to get that welded in next friday.
Removed and installed Motor mounts. Wasn't to bad this times around. Last time I did them was I wanna say 8yrs ago and over 140k miles ago.
Lower ball joints and smurf blood refresh is gonna have to be done next weekend.
As luck would have it 1of the welded nuts for passenger upper control arm is spinning so I'll have to get that welded in next friday.
Removed and installed Motor mounts. Wasn't to bad this times around. Last time I did them was I wanna say 8yrs ago and over 140k miles ago.
Lower ball joints and smurf blood refresh is gonna have to be done next weekend.
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flyboy2610
Member
Gave it a much needed bath, as some birds used a couple of the windows and doors for target practice. Had left the way back windows open for quite a while as we haven't had the daily rains in months, and there's an oak tree that I park under at work, so a fair amount of leaves had found their way into the cargo area. Put the vacuum to work, which was also overdue.
xavierny25
Member
I got the passenger side upper control arm nut welded back in yesterday. Today passenger side tie rod end and lower ball joints on both sides.
BrianF
Member
Not much for my old girl. As usual, have to pause on the abs issue, as she is back in DD use.
Went to the dealer and have a CV shift seal on order. Did the front driver side back in 2013 and it's due up again. That will be this weekend.
Scanned the codes again, having the usual AIR injection ones but seeing the exhaust cam/lean codes are long gone.
Today I picked up a Mothers headlight resto kit. It came with a drill attachment for the sanding and polishing discs. Wet sanded with the 800, 1500 and 3000 grit discs. Then several runs with polishing compound. You really cannot tell from the before and after pics but the lights are better but the kit was lacking some clear coat spray, which I will have to pick up some.
I also have to price out some new moccasins. Then old Goodyear Trailrunners are worn out and 3 of them have slow leaks.
Went to the dealer and have a CV shift seal on order. Did the front driver side back in 2013 and it's due up again. That will be this weekend.
Scanned the codes again, having the usual AIR injection ones but seeing the exhaust cam/lean codes are long gone.
Today I picked up a Mothers headlight resto kit. It came with a drill attachment for the sanding and polishing discs. Wet sanded with the 800, 1500 and 3000 grit discs. Then several runs with polishing compound. You really cannot tell from the before and after pics but the lights are better but the kit was lacking some clear coat spray, which I will have to pick up some.
I also have to price out some new moccasins. Then old Goodyear Trailrunners are worn out and 3 of them have slow leaks.
Attachments
Ilikemy3s
Member
- Joined
- Dec 3, 2011
- Posts
- 407
Getting it ready to wash it. Also getting ready to replace all the exterior lights as i have 2 that are out, and from my experience, once one or two go, more will soon go. And with winter soon upon us, i don't want to have to be freezing my caboose off replacing any later
Fixed a broken retainer for the passenger side switch panel. Saw it was loose the other day and after a quick wiggle it was clear that either the clip on the switch panel or the corresponding retainer on the door panel interior was broken. Took the panel off and found that the retainer was broken, Looking around the garage for a piece of ABS (that I had been saving for just such an emergency!) I noticed the locking clasp on an old pool chlorine bucket bore a striking resemblance to the shape I would need to fit into the door handle. A little trimming & shaving and some epoxy; works like a charm.
Swapped the tires/wheels on the TB to the winters. Checking the DOT codes on them, they were also made in 2015 so it will be their last winter as well. Come spring time, I will have to buy a new set of tires but will go with winter rated AT tires, like on the Sierra.
Speaking of which, the Sierra's Cooper AT3's are down to the wear bars, lasted about 70k km/4 years so looking at some replacements. Kinda disappointed with their wear. The prices of tires have shot up since I got these for $800. They're now $1350 not including install. Costco has some interesting options, looking at the Pirelli Scorpion All Terrain Plus at $1400 + tax, install included. They're only rated to 80k km though. Kal Tire has the Nokian Outpost NAT All Terrain rated to 100k km but those are $1550 + $80 install + tax. Decisions, decisions.
Speaking of which, the Sierra's Cooper AT3's are down to the wear bars, lasted about 70k km/4 years so looking at some replacements. Kinda disappointed with their wear. The prices of tires have shot up since I got these for $800. They're now $1350 not including install. Costco has some interesting options, looking at the Pirelli Scorpion All Terrain Plus at $1400 + tax, install included. They're only rated to 80k km though. Kal Tire has the Nokian Outpost NAT All Terrain rated to 100k km but those are $1550 + $80 install + tax. Decisions, decisions.
coolride
Member
I would not get the Pirelli. Many on the forums have been having them wear out in 20k or less
flyboy2610
Member
flyboy2610
Member
Not today, but yesterday I installed the new GM front axle disconnect actuator. 4WD seems to be functioning properly again. Hopefully it won't crap out on me in the middle of winter!
BrianF
Member
Just picked up the front different, driver side CV shift seal from the dealer. Hoping this weekend I'll have it put in....
Just had both front winter wheels and tires on the TB resealed and swapped a TPMS sensor as it was dropping out once in a while. One wheel was really bad, leaking 10 psi overnight, the other 2-3 psi per day. I picked up 3 sensors from the u-pull yard and used one of those. I have a bi-directional TPMS scanner that tells me if it's working or not as well as battery status before taking it out. They didn't even charge me for them except for the $5 admission fee. And how did I get them out of the junker? Basically just cut a window in the tire to access the sensor. Tires were junk otherwise I wouldn't have done that. Anyway, next year, I'll need new tires and will likely throw in new sensors so I don't have to deal with them ever again except rotations.
BrianF
Member
Which reminds me, I got the new Nokian Outpost NAT on Monday. So far, very nice. A little noisier than the Cooper AT3 they replace, but barely noticeable. Just a very low hum. Rated for 100k km, hope they last more than the Coopers at 70k.
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flyboy2610
Member
Tracked down what's been leaving an oil spot on my driveway: left outer differential seal. 
Why couldn't it have done this a month ago when it was warmer? I'm going to do the bearing at the same time.
Why couldn't it have done this a month ago when it was warmer? I'm going to do the bearing at the same time.
flyboy2610
Member
Topped up the front diff with some Valvoline 75W-90 gear oil (lovely smelling stuff that is!). Took about a half quart. I plan to do the seal and bearing on Wednesday. It's supposed to get up to 50(F), so it should be a pretty decent day to do it. When I get home from work on Tuesday I'll put it up on a jackstand and start unbolting what needs to come off: the outer tie rod end nut and the upper and lower ball joint nuts. Plus the caliper and rotor.
I plan to just pull the steering knuckle rather than try to work around it.
One good thing: I know for a fact that the diff fill plug will come out!
I plan to just pull the steering knuckle rather than try to work around it.
One good thing: I know for a fact that the diff fill plug will come out!
Mike534x
Member
- Joined
- Apr 9, 2012
- Posts
- 1,062
Started getting into the teens this past week in NWI/Chicago, of course as is tradition with the ugly cold something is bound to go wrong. Thermostat is sticking partially open on the Trailblazer, aside from weak heat the upper hose is warm and not hot to the touch. The coolant temp sensor needs to be replaced for sure, as it does cause the needle to read 3 ticks to the left on the dash. Torque is reporting about 170 to 178* F on the temps, and my gas mileage is definitely in the gutter.
I've got the new Delco coolant temp sensor in the glovebox, and I have a Dorman T-Stat on hand. 1 year ago today is when I replaced the original with the now failed ACD.
I was very tempted to pick up another Stant T-Stat, but I'm iffy on it since the one from RA last year had a motorad stamp on the housing....I can't imagine the Dorman would be awful.
I've got the new Delco coolant temp sensor in the glovebox, and I have a Dorman T-Stat on hand. 1 year ago today is when I replaced the original with the now failed ACD.
I was very tempted to pick up another Stant T-Stat, but I'm iffy on it since the one from RA last year had a motorad stamp on the housing....I can't imagine the Dorman would be awful.
flyboy2610
Member
I'll give Dorman this: they have been trying to imrove their parts in recent years. I still don't trust them too much, though.
Mike534x
Member
- Joined
- Apr 9, 2012
- Posts
- 1,062
I feel the same way, though I have been pleasently surprised as of late with how good the quality has gotten. Depending on what it is. I'm just iffy on ACD T-Stats at this point, between having to replace the Envoys twice (both failing after 2 years), and now the Trailblazers after a year I'm willing to give Dorman a chance.
I'm not looking forward to getting the ECT Sensor out, how nice of GM to relocate it to the passenger side by the firewall.
I'm not looking forward to getting the ECT Sensor out, how nice of GM to relocate it to the passenger side by the firewall.
Mike534x
Member
- Joined
- Apr 9, 2012
- Posts
- 1,062
Dorman Thermostat, and ACD Coolant Temp Sensor installed and seems to be working as it should. Gauge on the dash sits exactly on 210 (torque reports it sitting between 192 and 208), and doesn't budge while driving and the heats working perfectly.
She definitely was running rich, had a #5 misfire during the initial cold start that cleared up within 10 seconds. Plug was carbon coated black, and reeked of gas. So I guess I'm doing plugs again, and after purging the system of air I got a code for the Upstream Sensor. I cleared it, and will see if it comes back. I'm pretty sure the sensor might be toast going off how fouled the plugs are. Also that coolant sensor is in a terrible spot, I spent more time trying to get it in then it took to yank the T-Stat.
She definitely was running rich, had a #5 misfire during the initial cold start that cleared up within 10 seconds. Plug was carbon coated black, and reeked of gas. So I guess I'm doing plugs again, and after purging the system of air I got a code for the Upstream Sensor. I cleared it, and will see if it comes back. I'm pretty sure the sensor might be toast going off how fouled the plugs are. Also that coolant sensor is in a terrible spot, I spent more time trying to get it in then it took to yank the T-Stat.