What did you do to your GMT today? [Part II]

Mooseman

Moderator
New thread.

Took both to have oil sprayed. I feel much better now with anything old man winter or the salt truck can throw at them.
 

TollKeeper

Well-Known Member
Drove it to work.. Hoping the knocking motor makes it another 18 months. It only knocks on COLD starts.
 

gpking

Well-Known Member
I tried driving the GMT360 to work... didn't quite make it before my 4.2 did the Colorado/DoD/AFM mod and decided to drop down to 5 cylinders to save fuel of course.
I did the right thing and limped it to work, worked all day, then drove it the whole 22 mile journey back home with a flashing CEL on 5 cyl.
Tore into it and swapped the coil pack from #1 into #2. Yup, bad coil.
1609456951945.png
I did the right thing and only replaced the bad coil. Drove it to work today running like a top.

------

Then on the 6.6 GMT800, I relocated the block heater cord (which was still zip tied up from the factory) to under the headlight for easy access, and also enabled Elevated Idle which was also disabled from the factory... not sure why none of this was used up north where this rig came from, but I'm sure as hell using it. On the heater for 30 min and less than 5 min of high idle in 20 degree weather and the coolant needle started climbing.
Snapchat-744679488_01.jpgSnapchat-2041574789_01.jpg
 

christo829

Well-Known Member
Repaired taillights. I had replaced them last January because one was faded and got me a comment by the safety inspector about how orange it was rather than red. Turned out that one was the original lens, and the red one was a replacement that was on the truck when I bought it. Said the heck with it and got a matching pair.

FF to about a week ago and suddenly I had no backup lights. Since I'm due for this year's inspection this month, couldn't just ignore it. Found blown #32 fuse. Of course my fuse kit only had *one* spare 10A fuse... Took the new tails off, fuse didn't blow. Dug out the old tails and plugged them in. All good. Swapped the old but working circuit boards (upgraded versions) on to the new lenses and now I can actually pass inspection.

Yay quality control... Maybe after I'm done getting my aunt's house fixed and on the market, I'll dissect the flawed circuit boards and see what actually failed.
 

Blckshdw

Moderator
Used it to move some stuff.

Did the same with mine, but off to the scrap yard instead. Had a bunch of old metal roof panels from a previous deconstruction as well, plenty of old TB parts (I forgot how heavy those LCAs were), parts of the shipping frame from my riding mower, and even that street lamp housing from that accident next to my house years ago. Ended up being 300 pounds worth.


20210109_092027.jpg
 

Reprise

Lifetime VIP Supporter
Made some progress with the Sierra's 'no start on 1st crank' issue; got it to where I can start it on the 1st crank (but the crank is a bit extended, compared to before, and it works better if I slightly depress the go pedal).

Changed the injector crank pulse delay from '2' to '0', so fuel comes in earlier. Now I have to figure out how much *more* fuel to add, to shorten the crank sequence. Tried '1' first; that was no better than '2'.

Something I read on the HPT forum: "If it's cranking & not starting, it's lean. If it's starting and immediately dies, it's too rich". I thought that was useful (if not 'obvious').

Not today, however. Today, I'm digging into the 'Voy and showing it some love. It's the truck I want to be driving in the snow, not the Sierra.
 

coolride

Silver Supporter
After lots of sanding and a wipe down with acetone, I decided to treat this section of frame with Ospho. I've had good luck with the stuff.
frame6.JPG

I picked up a needle scaler and took it to the bottom edge of the rocker panel. Lots of bubbled paint was knocked off. Caught it just it time. I will prime and paint flat black. It looks like it might be galvanized? The rust appears to be located at points that might be spot welds
frame8.JPG
 
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xavierny25

Well-Known Member
Popped open the hood this morning to check fluids before the Mrs headed out to work and what do I see.20210119_063621.jpg
Don't know where, when or what happened to the cap. I know it was there last week and I'm pretty sure I put it back on correctly like I've done for 10 yrs.
 
OP
Mooseman

Mooseman

Moderator
I actually missed the missing oil cap, I just saw the collapsed rad hose. Time for a new cap there too.
 

Mike534x

Well-Known Member
Finally got the Envoy bled today after changing the thermostat. I ordered the wrong bleeder kit, instead of the one that connects to the radiator I got the one that goes to the coolant reservoir. Ended up buying that funnel that goes on the radiator to keep coolant from spilling out, along with opening the steam vent. Day one she wouldn't bleed, just a crap ton of steam from the port until she climbed to 240 and I shut her down for the day. Got the funnel today, and watched her climb to 240 again and heard the actuators open for the heater core and had heat coming through as the temps started to settle down to 195F. Hoping the stant lasts me, figured this would be easier since it has a small bleeder port in the thermostat for the air to escape. Also got an appointment scheduled for next week to get the aftermarket Walker cat I purchased welded in.
 

Reprise

Lifetime VIP Supporter
(over the course of the last few days, not just 'today'... )

Rented a coolant pressure tester and found the leak with the Envoy's system. Turned out to be nothing more than a loose hose clamp. On the top hose to the WP, no less. I had taken apart the washer fluid canister to get to the coolant recovery tank, as I know that's a fairly (?) common issue with the thing cracking at the seams. Not the case with mine, yet, anyway.
Putting everything back together, I couldn't remember how the bracket that holds in the A/C receiver / drier connected back up. So I jerry-rigged it until I can find some pics of it.

Since I had replaced all of the OEM clamps with worm gear type, perhaps this will reopen the debate on the 'best' clamps to use on coolant hoses? :undecided: I know people like to rag on the factory 'squeeze' clamps, but at least I never had to worry about them leaking.

For such a slight leak (the gage never rose above 'normal'), I wound up putting 2/3 of a gallon of coolant back in. Monitoring over the next few days.


Still playing with the Sierra's tune, and the hard starting issue. After backing out almost all of the timing & airflow changes I'd made, I finally flashed the factory tune back in, and tested - it *still* cranks excessively on the first turn of the key. Going to wait until I get the intake / injector / FP regulator / E85 component swap done, before tackling it further (thinking that maybe the swapped FPR will rectify. For now, it can wait.)

Put gas in the Sierra, ahead of our big snow tonight / tomorrow. Noted the gauge is still sluggish (10min to update). Contacted the vendor; they're sending out a replacement pump. The nice thing is, I don't have to send the old one back. :2thumbsup: Which is good, because right now, I'm busy with the Accord (new brakes, all around, along with fixing the airbag light).

Sitting down with some 20yr tawny, waiting for the first flakes to fly (they're about 4hrs late, at this point). Forecast is calling for about a foot, which would be our biggest snowstorm in several years. :yikes: Gonna be lots of blowing / drifting, so the 'real' total out here will prolly be close to 18".
 

Mike534x

Well-Known Member
@Reprise I had a similar issue, it happened at the pump + lower/upper hoses. Bought the clamps from Harbor Freight (oops), turns out they suck and have terrible holding grip even when tightened down as much as possible. Ended up taking them off and buying similar ones from NAPA (felt beefier and a little wider) and after 2 years it they still haven't leaked on me yet.


So far so good with the Stant thermostat, temp gauge is reading 1 hair to the left of the 210 mark. Torque shows a consistent 195 so I'm happy with that, and this cluster has always been "off" by a notch from how the readings typically are. Topped off the coolant reservoir now that the coolants circulated itself through the system, just need to give the engine bay a good rinse to get rid of the coolant smell still. Noticed a "whine" coming from under the hood while driving, sounds like a turbo spooling up whenever I accelerate. Gonna take a look at the pulleys to see if one of them is starting to go.

Otherwise, that's all thats been done within the last few days. Ordered up a set of black replacement headlights. Original ones are getting too cloudy, and the kits I tried to clear them up usually wear off after 6-8 months. Also got a set of Phillips 9011 65w HIR bulbs to get a little more brightness :biggrin:. Oh and a new headlight washer pump. Couldn't figure out why the headlights were still dirty from the snow, hitting the button results in a clicking sound coming from the fuse box. Thought the relay was shot, swapped it with the one that controls the rear pump and....same thing. So got a replacement for $20 on Amazon, so that'll be going in when the new headlights arrive.
 
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Matt

Silver Supporter
Got the front diff done, it was L O W, really low. Couldn't get the rear fill plug off and didn't want to risk rounding out the 3/8" square hole. I'm going to get some cheap 3/8" extensions from HF and if need be, fashion a good one out of them.
 

TB_n00b

Well-Known Member
Going way back...October 30th, traded in the TB and came home with this:PXL_20201030_220602096.MP.jpg

It's no SUV but almost 9 inches of ground clearance and dropping my monthly gas usage by 75% makes the compromise worth it. I'll miss the TB but it was like being on a sinking ship with all the problems manifesting.
 

Matt

Silver Supporter
Going way back...October 30th, traded in the TB and came home with this:View attachment 99647

It's no SUV but almost 9 inches of ground clearance and dropping my monthly gas usage by 75% makes the compromise worth it. I'll miss the TB but it was like being on a sinking ship with all the problems manifesting.

I'm about six month from the same happening.
 

Sparky

Moderator
Driving it to get water softener salt from the Big Orange Box. Really just Driving it every so often, not much going on with it and I'm cool with that. It is behaving well, and winter sucks to do any vehicle work anyway.
 
OP
Mooseman

Mooseman

Moderator
Drove the Avy yesterday to the grocery store, pick up some A&W then home. Same as a lot of ppl, nowhere to go really.

The TB played rental car to my son's GF for a couple of days who totaled her car when she was T-boned. She's fine but the other kid had to explain to his mom why he went through a red light while he was on his phone and totaled her car too. He's gonna be screwed for insurance for the next few years. Actually thinking of suspending the insurance on it since we don't drive it much neither since the Mrs is still working from home and her unit will be a test run for working from home permanently even after all this is over.
 

BrianF

Well-Known Member
Did a 1000km round trip in the old Tb. Went to visit and help my parents. Averaged 15 to 16L/100km pushing some wind and cold temps down there and 13.6 on the way home.

Forgot to check the codes but took a picture of my fuel trims. I have yet to really read and understand them yet.

I watched the output of the O2 sensor. At operating temp at idle it was dead around .64 to .68 volts. Lightly revving I could get it to get a bit north of .7 volts. I really ned to get that changed.

20210129_101809.jpg20210129_101806.jpg
 

Sparky

Moderator
Exercised the 4WD this morning, roads were covered on my way to work. One part was either horribly drifted or just unplowed entirely.
 

BrianF

Well-Known Member
Pulled the codes today. Aside from the SAIS codes I now have p0030 and p0135. I knew that 02 was dying, just need to get that damn thing ripped out still.
 

Reprise

Lifetime VIP Supporter
Had to activate 4 Hi on the 'Voy yesterday; when I did (from Park), it moved right over, but got the 'Service 4WD' on the dash, which stayed lit after I put the xfr case back in its normal 2 Hi. Light was gone on the next restart a few minutes later; given how cold it is, how little I use 4WD, and since the garage has another Reprisemobile in it, it can wait, especially since it went right back to 2 Hi.

Today I went to start the Sierra, to juice up the battery (it's sitting outside, too), and found the driver's door frozen. Thankfully, I got the rear door open, and got in that way. But before then, I tried loosening any frozen moisture from between the weatherstrip and the door with an awl, and prying the door frame with it. The only thing I did there was to gouge the paint around the door / frame (down to the primer, in some spots). Arrgh. :Banghead::dunce:

While I was sitting in the front seat, and also after I'd had the heat/defrost on full-tilt boogie for about 30min, I tried opening the door from the *inside*. Still wouldn't budge. WTAF? Made my way back out the rear door, and tried opening the door again from the outside. This time, it opened right up (must've been a latch issue, trying to pull it from the outside at first - ?) So that was a relief.

Another thing I noticed... my 'no start on first crank issue'... confirmed today that I can just 'bump' the starter ever so slightly for the 'first crank', then turn the key back, and it'll start right up, just like it always used to. So weird! I'd been thinking my FPR was the culprit, but not with this latest development. And fuel pressure isn't an issue, as I didn't prime at all, today (plus the pump is new, and so is the in-line filter.)
Bought a bona-fide fuel pressure tester gauge - once I get the Sierra in the garage (it's 3rd in line, currently), I'll do the diagnostic there. But it's probably going to be a short diagnostic, especially if I find the FPR is shot. The TBSS intake swap will be the 'fix' for that (it gets a new C5 FPR, by default).
 
OP
Mooseman

Mooseman

Moderator
Sometimes it's worth it to just pay somebody to do it.
 

Sparky

Moderator
When the exhaust came apart on the old TB I wasn't about to attempt the manifold by myself! A reported 8 or 9 busted studs told me I had made a wise choice and gladly paid the $
 

Mike534x

Well-Known Member
Still chasing down the sound of the phantom "turbo" spooling noise I'm having while driving. Checked the PS Pump and found it near empty, just a little bit of wetness on the very tip of the dipstick. oops. I guess the seepage from the high pressure line is getting worse, so that's been bumped to the very first thing to do once Spring rolls around. The PS Pump looks like its the original, I may just do an overhaul and replace it along with the other line while I'm in there. I topped it off, and it helped settle the noise down a bit but the "turbo" sound is still there. Gonna try swapping out the idler pulley near the alternator next.

Also got the rear end clunking over bumps (to an extent, the front end also). Thought it was sorted out after I tossed the Moog sway bar links, and replaced all of them with the SuspensionMAXX ones. Took a light under the truck and checked all the links for play. Upper bushings on them look a bit worn, resulting in the middle shaft (the center piece with the suspensionmaxx logo) to have almost 1/4" inch of movement. I don't believe its supposed to allow that much, so I still have yet to hear back from them after sending an email days ago. So I'll be trying to call them tomorrow to figure out what's going on. They've been on the truck for about a year-ish, so way too soon for this kind of wear and tear. I could buy the rebuild kit, but I'm not exactly happy with the short lifespan these have had so far.
 

Reprise

Lifetime VIP Supporter
Gonna try swapping out the idler pulley near the alternator next.

If you have access to a press, the bearing in the assembly can be replaced. It's a 6303, and available from several sources / manufacturers. Not that the cost for the full assembly is exorbitant (it runs about $20 or so; I was looking for one for my Envoy, which is howling right now, especially if it's not started on the regular.)

But... when I found out the bearing can be replaced, and the rest of the assy reinstalled (no 'new bolt' requirement, etc.) -- and that a bearing costs about $8 for a decent Timken... I decided to order up the bearing and try my luck at replacing it. Got the bearing yesterday from Amazon; once I get the Accord out of the garage, it should take me less than 30min to swap them out (and I'll post back my results).

Amazon sells a two-pack for $16 -- and when I got the order yesterday, I got 2 x twin-pack -- so I have *four* bearings, and only need two (one for each GM truck -- the Envoy now; the Sierra at some point down the road. Net cost: $4 for each bearing.
At that price, you better believe I'll try and just do the bearing replacement. :biggrin:
If I fail, the cost for a new assembly is only $20. But... I won't fail :dielaugh:
 
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Mooseman

Mooseman

Moderator
Last night, put my newly received desulfator on the Avy's battery. It's probably still good because it showed 12.9V but decided to run it anyway since the battery (Motomaster Eliminator) is 4 years old. What I probably saw on my Scangauge when shutting off (11V) is likely ghost readings.

I also have a 5 year old Interstate deep cycle for the RV that's currently on a trickle charger that I'll do some tests and see if it improves it.
 

BrianF

Well-Known Member
Almost burnt my Trailblazer down after it failed to start this morning. Lucky the ether can was so cold it barely sprayed.

Supposed to warm up but hey, -38c before windchill, why not? Had it plugged in all night but not the battery tender. Had to charge it for 30 minutes before i could get it to pop over. Sounded and felt just like an old carbed engine.

Old trusty the C1500 had a frozen battery and I almost snapped the key off trying to turn the ignition switch. Hopefully get it running today as a backup. My 3500 is almost in complete shutdown, going to book it in for a delete today.

It's so cold that I got just over 130km to the top half of a tank of fuel on my Trailblazer.

Also its so cold the gas struts for the lift gate don't work. Tried to load groceries yesterday and it fell, smoking my wife in the head.
 

BrianF

Well-Known Member
Alright so.... plugged the C1500 in for a few hours, had to jump it and got it running. Of course those bloody side post terminal bolts are mangled from the previous owner and I couldn't pull the battery to thaw it. Its got the charger on it for a few hours. Overnight she will get the battery tender and block heater when I leave in the morning. Need it as backup while I'm gone.
 

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