What did you do to your GMT today? [Part II]

Mooseman

Moderator
New thread.

Took both to have oil sprayed. I feel much better now with anything old man winter or the salt truck can throw at them.
 

TollKeeper

Well-Known Member
Drove it to work.. Hoping the knocking motor makes it another 18 months. It only knocks on COLD starts.
 

gpking

Well-Known Member
I tried driving the GMT360 to work... didn't quite make it before my 4.2 did the Colorado/DoD/AFM mod and decided to drop down to 5 cylinders to save fuel of course.
I did the right thing and limped it to work, worked all day, then drove it the whole 22 mile journey back home with a flashing CEL on 5 cyl.
Tore into it and swapped the coil pack from #1 into #2. Yup, bad coil.
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I did the right thing and only replaced the bad coil. Drove it to work today running like a top.

------

Then on the 6.6 GMT800, I relocated the block heater cord (which was still zip tied up from the factory) to under the headlight for easy access, and also enabled Elevated Idle which was also disabled from the factory... not sure why none of this was used up north where this rig came from, but I'm sure as hell using it. On the heater for 30 min and less than 5 min of high idle in 20 degree weather and the coolant needle started climbing.
Snapchat-744679488_01.jpgSnapchat-2041574789_01.jpg
 

christo829

Well-Known Member
Repaired taillights. I had replaced them last January because one was faded and got me a comment by the safety inspector about how orange it was rather than red. Turned out that one was the original lens, and the red one was a replacement that was on the truck when I bought it. Said the heck with it and got a matching pair.

FF to about a week ago and suddenly I had no backup lights. Since I'm due for this year's inspection this month, couldn't just ignore it. Found blown #32 fuse. Of course my fuse kit only had *one* spare 10A fuse... Took the new tails off, fuse didn't blow. Dug out the old tails and plugged them in. All good. Swapped the old but working circuit boards (upgraded versions) on to the new lenses and now I can actually pass inspection.

Yay quality control... Maybe after I'm done getting my aunt's house fixed and on the market, I'll dissect the flawed circuit boards and see what actually failed.
 

Blckshdw

Moderator
Used it to move some stuff.

Did the same with mine, but off to the scrap yard instead. Had a bunch of old metal roof panels from a previous deconstruction as well, plenty of old TB parts (I forgot how heavy those LCAs were), parts of the shipping frame from my riding mower, and even that street lamp housing from that accident next to my house years ago. Ended up being 300 pounds worth.


20210109_092027.jpg
 

Reprise

Lifetime VIP Supporter
Made some progress with the Sierra's 'no start on 1st crank' issue; got it to where I can start it on the 1st crank (but the crank is a bit extended, compared to before, and it works better if I slightly depress the go pedal).

Changed the injector crank pulse delay from '2' to '0', so fuel comes in earlier. Now I have to figure out how much *more* fuel to add, to shorten the crank sequence. Tried '1' first; that was no better than '2'.

Something I read on the HPT forum: "If it's cranking & not starting, it's lean. If it's starting and immediately dies, it's too rich". I thought that was useful (if not 'obvious').

Not today, however. Today, I'm digging into the 'Voy and showing it some love. It's the truck I want to be driving in the snow, not the Sierra.
 

coolride

Silver Supporter
After lots of sanding and a wipe down with acetone, I decided to treat this section of frame with Ospho. I've had good luck with the stuff.
frame6.JPG

I picked up a needle scaler and took it to the bottom edge of the rocker panel. Lots of bubbled paint was knocked off. Caught it just it time. I will prime and paint flat black. It looks like it might be galvanized? The rust appears to be located at points that might be spot welds
frame8.JPG
 
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