What did you do to your GMT today? [Part II]

[Mooseman]

Took the TB in for a new set of shoes. Got the same Nokian nAT All Terrains that I got for the Sierra. Loved them so much on the Sierra that I decided to splurge on the old girl. The winter tires I had on there were worn and old and driving in snow has not been fun. And since the summers were also over 10 years old, decided to get an all-weather tire I can use all year.

Unfortunately, I let them talk me into "checking the alignment". Of course they said it was off. I had it done last summer at the dealership before I quit there and it was the best alignment I had ever had and was still good. Now it does track straight but the wheel is off-center . Gonna go back to get it done again but they'll get a face full of snow when they put it on the rack since it will be a storm tomorrow. I knew I shouldn't have done it.



Anybody want a set of Envoy chrome rims with old winters?

 

[Mike534x]

Got some progress pics for you all that he sent over! Bright side is, I caught it in time! The downside is, there's a small bit that's rusted/rotting out thats hidden by the cross member/CAT. He was working on her last night, and found it while beginning to clean the inside of the frame. Figured you guys would appreciate seeing what it looks like from the inside out.

Should be ready this weekend, to help me out he's painting the inside frame rail, and the outside by the cat with multiple coats of that chassis saver. It should keep it from getting any worse until I bring it back over the summer for him to work on it. According to him it's better then POR15, and from what I've seen it has good marks online from the Tacoma community.

 

[Mooseman]

It's crazy the amount of frame rust you guys down south get whereas I haven't seen anything like that with three GMT360's. Only other truck I've seen and fixed was my son's 2011 Silvy but he's up north and they use brine on the roads there, which is what I think is also the problem in the US rust belt. We don't use it in my area, just regular road salt, but I always get my vehicles oil sprayed. So far, my 07 TB has just a few rust spots on the front hood lip, one corner of a rear door, bubbling on the rear roof corner at the seam and the rear hatch lip.

 

[Mike534x]

It's crazy the amount of frame rust you guys down south get whereas I haven't seen anything like that with three GMT360's. Only other truck I've seen and fixed was my son's 2011 Silvy but he's up north and they use brine on the roads there, which is what I think is also the problem in the US rust belt. We don't use it in my area, just regular road salt, but I always get my vehicles oil sprayed. So far, my 07 TB has just a few rust spots on the front hood lip, one corner of a rear door, bubbling on the rear roof corner at the seam and the rear hatch lip.

Tell me about it Moose. I'm in NWI (20 min East of Chicago), and they go nuts with the salt over here. Its bad, but nowhere near as bad as the East Coast, like in Eric O's area where its just completely gone after a few years. Some of the Midwest uses brine, but we're still using salt unfortunately. We did have one year where there was a salt shortage, and we used sand which made it the easiest winter to deal with. I wish they'd use that instead.

Anything GM here rusts out badly, especially if its a GMT800. I have yet to see one that didn't have nearly every body panel rotted out. My Dad's 06 Yukon has the rockers rotted out, but the frame is still good from the undercoating I did 3 years ago. It definitely needs a touch up, used cosmoline, and it went on nice but its flaking off badly. The Trailblazer has spot inside the rear door near one of the drain holes, it hasn't bubbled/eaten its way to the outside metal yet. The Envoy has a section by the rear fender by the gas door that's been bubbling for awhile, but its not fully through yet.

 

[Mooseman]

So my saga with the alignment is finally over. Third time's a charm. Took it in again yesterday and they redid it. Driving it home, the wheel was still off center tilted to the right. Took it back in again today and finally it's straight ahead. I think he just readjusted the front wheels so to turn the wheel to the left. Never again will I get a "free" alignment check.

Anyway here are some pics of the new tires. They do look good and traction in snow is phenomenal.







Thinking this summer I'll repaint the wheels.

And... I'm now getting ABS and Stabilitrak lights. Codes C0035 (LF wheel sensor), C0455 (Steering wheel angle sensor (known intermittent issue)), C0244 (PWM Delivered Torque Malfunction). I probably have a wheel bearing starting to fail and I have to update the ABS module as per @mrrsm 's TSB he posted for the SWPS error.

 

[Mooseman]

Replaced the turn signal module. It had been flaky lately where it usually didn't want to work the left turn signal unless I flicked it twice. Very annoying. I had the old one from the 02 I kept as a spare so $0 fix. Also had the one from the Saab but it is vastly different because of the HID and the turn signals as a DRL. I should put all these Saab parts on eBay.

 

[TollKeeper]

Drove it for just short of 1000 miles in the last year, and it needed emissions. Passed with flying colors.

While sitting in line, there was a 2006 Volvo XC90 V8, which is a vehicle I was considering.. Glad I didnt I think. It maybe that she was having it serviced only at the dealer, but every repair bill has been 3000 to 10000. She has put $19000 in the truck since last January 2024. More than the truck is worth! The V8 is cool to drive, fast, and peppy. But at those repair prices, I think I will pass!

 

[Mike534x]

Forgot to post the repair pics, this was after I picked her up Saturday evening. The chassis saver was still a bit wet, but otherwise it looks good! Coating has cured, and after banging around it feels very solid like the factory metal. Overall, for the price, I'd say it was worth it keeping this thing going especially with what I spent so far, and what I've spent on fixing her up. She's stored in the garage right now, waiting on a can of Eastwood Rust Encapsulator to show up to touch up a few spots elsewhere on the frame. At least until its nice enough out to climb under and not freeze while coating it fully with Woolwax.

Driving the Envoy for now, since the frame is still well protected and to get some of the old gas from October used up. Still watching the battery levels as she sits for a day, since the phantom draw is only during the winter I'm leaning towards it being a module thats the issue since it can sit for days when its warm out and be completely fine. So far I'm averaging 14-16 with city driving.....beating out the Trailblazers 12. Not sure if the Envoy's 3.73 gearing over the 3.42 makes a difference or not.

 

[TollKeeper]

Drove it for just short of 1000 miles in the last year, and it needed emissions. Passed with flying colors.

While sitting in line, there was a 2006 Volvo XC90 V8, which is a vehicle I was considering.. Glad I didnt I think. It maybe that she was having it serviced only at the dealer, but every repair bill has been 3000 to 10000. She has put $19000 in the truck since last January 2024. More than the truck is worth! The V8 is cool to drive, fast, and peppy. But at those repair prices, I think I will pass!

Quoting myself here...

Drove 6068 miles in the last 2 years!
Emissions done in 2023 at miles 212104
Emissions done in 2025 at miles 218172

Did an oil change on 5/5/2024 at miles 217677, or 495 miles since it has been done.

I really should get rid of the old girl.. But I cant. I really love my GMC, and its relatively cheap to own a spare car. only $30 am month in insurance, and about $90 a year in registration. SO about $450 a year. I think its cheap insurance.

 

[azswiss]

Rotated the tires. 55K miles on the Michelin LTX AT2's and there is still plenty of tread left.

 

[Mooseman]

So for a while now, the TB's HVAC was only sending air to the defrost, not the feet. Broke out the old Tech 2 and it had some codes.

B3761: Air flow control 3 feedback circuit
B0248: Air flow control 3 circuit

Cleared the codes and checked the door positions. All but the defrost worked perfectly. It would not go all the way to the commanded position when selector is to full defrost. Only went to 101 when commanded to 111.

Did a relearn of all the actuator motors, same thing but I might have screwed it up. Did it two more times and it finally took. Now getting heat on my feet and defrost is off when commanded.

While I was at it, the ABS light was on again. Scan gave me:
U1000: Comms error
C0244: PWM Delivered torque Malfunction
C0455: SWPS
C0035: RF wheel sensor

Cleared the codes and did a yaw rate recalibration. Maybe that will get rid of the SWPS problems. RF sensor could be the hub or the sensor getting rust jacked. The U1000 is a little more disconcerting. I'll see if this returns.

 

[littleblazer]

Brake job. (Just popping in as I do from time to time.)

 

[azswiss]

Tracked down a coolant leak to the heater hose tee at the firewall. Replaced this about 8 years back with a non-OE part (by comparison, the original OE part lasted 13 years). New OE parts on order (decided to replace both tee's while I am there). Video link below:

Heater hose connector leak

 

[Mike534x]

Tracked down a coolant leak to the heater hose tee at the firewall. Replaced this about 8 years back with a non-OE part (by comparison, the original OE part lasted 13 years). New OE parts on order (decided to replace both tee's while I am there). Video link below:

Heater hose connector leak

I had that happen on my Envoy back in 2019, there's a identical piece that sits further up on the V8 (past the dipstick) and mine completely broke in half where the quick connect seats into. Just not a fan of plastic being used on something like the coolant system.


Got the Trailblazer back the other day, the eBay special power steering lines the PO installed decided to crap out, well...the high pressure line did at least. Ordered new ones off RA, and had a shop do the work and all seems well. Only other problem I'm having is I think the TCC valve bore is worn, she doesn't seem to be entering lock up most of the time. Loaded HP Tuners, and went to the TCC max/min table, and set it to 100% for max, and 90% for min. From what I gathered, this should have the lock up function as an on/off. I don't feel the "5th gear" feeling like the Envoy's does with the delete, but I noticed the RPMs are lower during cruising speeds.

The TB has 3.42 gears, before the TCC edit she liked to stay at about 1700-1800 RPM while on level ground at 45-50 MPH, with the tune shes getting down to 1400-1550. Other clue was that when using cruise control going 55, the tach jumps up 200-300 every few seconds. So this is leading me to believe its a lock up issue either with the TCC PWM solenoid, or a worn out valve body bore.

 

[azswiss]

Replaced the two heater hose tee connectors at the firewall. Broke the retainer clip inside the connector on the inlet hose; fortunately it was available at Napa (Dorman makes them as well, available at AZ).

 

[Mooseman]

Nice enough day to do some work on the TB. Replaced the LF hub with the Mevojunk Supreme I ordered. They did supply new bolts and axle nut but the bolts were 15mm instead of 18mm and the nut was 36mm instead of the stock 35mm so I just kept the originals. No more ABS/Stabilitrak codes or unwanted ABS activation. The old one felt fine but in my experience, it's the hub going bad that causes it.

Then did an oil change. It didn't look overly dirty and it still had 15% OLM left. I had used an old Purolator Classic filter I had in my stash and I put in another one but when I cut the old one open, I just found the filter media was just brittle and had a bit that was torn. Just didn't trust it. Maybe too old or just crap. I also had some Fram Ultra Synthetics XG3506 from when I had the 02 EXT, which is a bit shorter (3.359") than the XG9837 (4.06) specified for the 06-09 but it fits. Neither has a bypass valve so no difference there. I have three more to use. And I replaced a quart of oil with a quart of tranny fluid. No particular reason, just preventative cleaning.

 

[xavierny25]

Got in the Voy this morning and before I closed the door I noticed something was off.
Literally off. Not sure how this happened, my guess would be I took out a bird or seagull. It could have been 1 of my yard cats as I often catch them chewing on 1 of my neighbors' shark fin antenna.

 

[Mooseman]

So your OnStar or XM won't work anymore . Instead of replacing it, you could just take it out and plug the hole. Would eliminate that cat problem and clean up the roof.

 

[Mooseman]

On Sunday, did an oil change on the Sierra and changed the rear brakes. After 77k km, the inner pads were down to almost metal. The wear sensor should have said it was down to 1% instead of 11%.

The rotors were thrashed with grooves and rust. Since it has electric parking brakes, used my scan tool to retract them and put them in brake service mode. Removing the calipers proved to be a challenge with the PB motor in the way. Looking at some YT videos, they recommended that the motor be removed (just two screws). Then the piston has to be compressed back in. The f@cking torx retain screws broke three of my t30 bits and drilling them out proved to be near impossible. Drilled one enough to use the bolt holes to pry the rotor off but the other the hole broke . Used my mini grinder to cut into it and eventually got it off. I did not replace them and used a lot of antiseize.

The install went as per usual. Once installed, I pushed on the brake pedal and then took it out of brake service mode by just holding the brake pedal and the parking brake button (which I learned in the videos so scanner not really needed).

Went to burnish the the brakes. Since there were no instructions for that included, I used the 30-30-30 method. All good

When I watched the videos, everybody else had the same issue with the inner pads wearing out faster. I know my calipers and pins were fine and it didn't look like the parking brake was sticking so I don't know what gives on these trucks.

I'll have to do the fronts soon too. They're showing as 21% left.

 

[BrianF]

@Mooseman wow that's a shitty job!! That's why I tore my Ram down preemptively, I need to get ahead of that rust!!

I went through the Trailblazer today. Cracked the bleeders and lubed the slide pins. Glad I did. The rear bleeders were starting to seize in and the lube on front slide pins was getting tacky. I think I last did this in 2020.

I tore it down to get at the unit bearings, which got some grease pumped in. I pulled the passenger side CV shaft and slathered in some grease on the bearings. It looked good in there so I did not pull the CAD.

She came apart like butter. I guess using grease and anti seize over the years helped.... as did the half a dozen times I tore it down. Regardless, I greased up the u joints, end links and tie rod ends. Finished it off with a tire rotation. Other than the ac (have to booked it into a shop) she is ready for summer.

Oh, no staged photos for you dribbly bastards!

 

[Mooseman]

I fixed the driver side door pull handle with a little JB Weld . And the oval moulding around the other handle had broken tabs. I went to Kenny to look at the one TB they had and the handle was black whereas mine is grey. The moulding was already gone.

So slather a bunch of JB on the three broken pieces and a couple of screws through the moulding where the alignment pins used to be. She's solid now.

 

[flyboy2610]

Last December 4th I replaced the CV shaft seal on the drivers side of the differential. At the same time I replaced the drivers side outer tie rod end, and noticed that the lower ball joint could use replacing. Today time and weather finally coincided so I could replace the lower ball joint. Not a bad job to do. I also turned the tie rod end in one turn. After I replaced it in December the TB handled fine but the steering wheel was cocked to the left a bit. The steering wheel angle is better now, but still not quite centered. Handles fine. I think tomorrow I'm going to give it one more turn inwards. If the TB jiggles and wobbles I'll turn it back out one turn.
While I had the caliper and bracket off I noticed that it's time for new pads. I'll do all the pads, front and rear. I'll do the same for the wife's '06 TB. Mines an '04 EXT. I ordered them today from 1Aauto.com. I got 5 years out of the last set from them!
I've switched from semi-metallic to ceramic pads. The semi-metallic pads work well, but they tend to chew up the rotors much quicker than ceramic pads do. Ceramics work fine for our driving habits. I used to buy Duralast pads from AutoZone, but after having a backing pad fall off I switched away from them. Research reveals that I'm not the only one that's happened to! "The Official Brake Pads of NASCAR" my @#*!
The pads should be here by Wednesday, so next weekend will be brake pad time!

 

[Mooseman]

Just finished the front brakes on the Sierra. Not as bad as the rears but at the wear squealers. These are kinda nice to work on as they are basically unbranded Brembos. Exactly the same as the Camaro Brembos I installed on the Caprice. Inners were also worn more than the outers, which is surprising for a 4 piston stationary caliper. I again had to grind off the torx screws but I won't miss them .

So I'm all caught up on the Sierra. Next weekend we're heading to our son's in North Bay and in mid May we're also heading to Long Island for a memorial service.

 

[xavierny25]

The SS got some much needed attention. All spohn rear upper & lower control arms. Panhard bar. Nolathane rear sway bar, rear endlinks.

Here's some red for all the guys on here who hate my flourecent pink powder coated parts.

 

[Mooseman]

The L in the LS on my TB flew away a long ago and was an irritant. I picked up some letters at the PnP and wanted something different since I've modded it and not really an LS (Less Stuff) anymore. Was was gonna put TS as "Très Spécial" but settled on ST, which is basically a swear in French "estie". People around here won't pick up on that

 

[xavierny25]

Dropped the Voy of to my trusted mechanic after trying everything I could possibly do to fix a P0017. Unfortunately after 272000 miles it's time for a timing chain, guides, vvt sprocket and all the different seals that need to be replaced.

 

[mrrsm]

Depending upon the Expense Differences... If you can encourage him to Pull the Oil Pan and get the Front Timing Cover OFF... He will also be able to Pull the Gerotor Pump "O"Ring and Clean out any "Gas Blow By Carbon Gas-Gum and Black Mung" from the Pick-Up Screen as well as completely replace the Timing Chain, Tensioner and Chain Guides with Absolute FREE Access to all of those areas... and REALLY give that motor a New Lease On Life:




More to Follow...

 

[mrrsm]

Last Group of Images... Note the Distinctions between the Old Style Front Timing Cover with the Beveled, Shallow Blue Viton "O" Ring Inserted and the NEW Style GM Front Timing Cover with the Updated Orange Silicone Impregnated Vacuum Seal.

These Two Covers cannot have their Gerotor Oil Pumps Inter-Exchanged... This Updated Exchange includes the need to purchase the Melling Update Style Oil Pick-Up Tube and Screen as shown in these images (above and below)



...and finally...The Link to my "Flickr-Bucket" for the information of New Parts and Components...Hope This Helps:

GM_04_42L_NEW_ENGINE_PARTS

This Album contains images of Brand New Engine Parts and Components for the Complete Rebuild of the GM Atlas LL8 4.2L Engine for the years 2002-2004.

www.flickr.com

 

[xavierny25]

Just some follow up pic's for you guys.

You would think I dont change my oil enough but I do, every 3k to 5k since we've owned it(14yrs) 5w30 mobile 1 synthetic. From the very bottom of the pan and a little more then 1/2 way up the Pick up tube was fine everything else is just gonked up. Gonna cost some extra $$$ but he's gonna clean it up as best he could and throw a new starter in it since its the factory original.
Hopefully I'll have it back by Monday or Tuesday the latest.

 

[mrrsm]

Great News! Incidentally, The "Black Mung" decorating the lower entrails of your Motor (Which Looks Superb in the Top End Valve Train due to Proper Oil Changes over all these years) is due to Excessive Combustion Blow-By Gasses escaping from the Cylinders around the Stuck, Gummed Up Carbon Trapped "Low Tension Compression Rings".

From there, those partially burned fumes enter the Boxy Bottom End, pressurizing that area and driving Engine Oil out and up through those "Parallelogram" shaped Mains Webbing Support Slots in the interior sides of the Engine Block into the areas under the Valve cover, then gets vacuumed through the Small Rubber Elbow into the Air Plenum, then through the Throttle Body and down into the Intake Runners of the Intake Manifold to be ingested during the Intake Strokes... NOT from any Poor Maintenance on your part.

The only treatments that can help this issue over a decade of regular driving are Regular Treatments of using ACDelco Top Engine Cleaner to Break up the Carbon to Metal Bonds on the Piston Tops and loosen the Carbon and Gas-Gum Grip holding the Dual Top Compression Rings inside the Lands and Grooves of the Pistons and around the Valve Seats for a Few Hours of Soaking to dissolve away all of the Carbon Mess. Nothing else will do the trick, save of Re-Rings or a complete engine over-haul... or Pistons & Cylinders being replaced.

Soaking the Crank Case with Berryman's Chem-Dip while it is still off of the Lower Engine Block... WILL completely Dissolve all of that Crap, too... Be sure to clean the slots and grooves of all the Old Gray Hardened Silicone before applying the New Stuff (Permatex High Temp Gray) will ensure that the seal becomes sound again.

Just so you don't feel alone with this common issue...Here is One "BEFORE" and quite a few "AFTER" Cleaning Shots to encourage you:

 

[MAY03LT]

Did some underhood wiring clean up. The fuse block is one of the first from the big homie meade916 - the newer versions are "better" even though this has been in 2 cars over 8 years or so.