I have to get it on a real car lift to get the pic I want but this is exactly what I was looking for when I started this project.
I have to tackle all the surface rust on the frame hopefully sometime this spring.
So after I get home, I am sitting on the forums, and the power goes out. Call the power company, and they tell me that its going to be the next day before they get it back on (came on about 4 hours ago now). So realizing its going to get cold in the house, and realizing that all my fireplace wood is outside, soaked from the rain 2 days ago, and now frozen from the blizzard..
I pull the emergency release for the garage door, and head out to my local Lowes. Its usually about a 5 minute drive, took 90 minutes. Road is completely blocked. Police have called in the local national guard to pull everyone out of there cars, and are just abandoning the vehicles where they sit. Problem is that the National guard cant get to them because a Semi-Bobtail is blocking the way to them. I again put my XUV into 4x4, grab my tow strap, hook it to the back of the semi, and start pulling. Definetly a bigger pull than the Dodge Journey earlier, but I have faith in my beast. 3 good yanks, and its moving, wheels were stuck in his own ruts. Trooper runs up to me to tell me where to drag him to for everyones safety, its about 150 feet UP the street. So I just keep pulling.
Trooper comes up to me and asks if I can pull a Honda Odyssey out. I look down to where the Mini-Van is, and flat out say NO. I would have to blow thru snow drifts that are as tall as my truck. I have faith in my beast, but I need to get some firewood, and head home to keep my Mini-Me warm.
Found an alternate route to the Lowes, picked up some firewood, and a light switch for my office, and headed over to a Chick-A-Filet, then on home. Snuggled up with my wife in front of the crackling fireplace, and had some chicken dinner.
My back is hurting today. Probably over did it a bit yesterday (have 5 partially blown discs). Work calls me and says the power is still out. Wish they would have called me before I got half way to work. The roads are still bad out there.
Started messing with my fog light issue and dropped that till I get a replacement light control switch. While putting my tools away I came across the spark plugs I've been meaning to replace. So I went ahead and tackled that while I still had light out and it didn't start raining.
COIL 1 through 6 read left to right.
Tb got the new links and bushings. Then I payed some attention to the GMT400. Chasing down the poor fuel economy so I decided to check those plugs. They were in great shape with a beautiful and even tan color. I checked gap, which was .045 all across the board. Emissions sticker and the interweb tell me .035, so that's what they all got. Now to put some miles on her to check.
Took Sierra #1 to the emissions test station the other day. Got a nice surprise - the truck is actually exempt from testing, due to the GVWR of #8800. Which means the other Sierra is, too. Yay me. Although I'm wondering why I got a test notice for it -- prolly b/c this was the first time the truck had been titled in IL (it spent its whole life up until now in WI). FWIW, I get to repeat the trip for the Voy pretty soon.
Drove Sierra #2 around a bit with its fresh oil, and hooked it up to Torque, to see if I could get any info on the misfires. Not much on those - I set up R/T and historical counters for all 8 cylinders, and while I saw intermittent R/T misfires across many of the 8, none were 'stored' for more than a few seconds.
(by comparison, Sierra #1 is clean on all cylinders except for #5, and it has plenty of them stored for that one. But I'm not tracking that one down further, since it's for sale and no CEL.)
Anyway, on the new truck, I ran a diagnostic scan, and the only thing that came up was a 'pending' 'P0171 - Bank 1 too lean'. Which could (?) explain the rough idle. Put it back in the garage and made plans to get up close & personal with the MAF sensor. If I'm feeling frisky afterward, I'll pull the plugs & put the ones in I'd been saving from the other truck. Curious to see what the ones in this new (to me) truck look like. Cheap LS ignition wire recommendations, anyone?
Feeling more & more like the new truck has some sort of tune -- its throttle response feels at least as good as the old one, which has a Limequat-provided tune on it.
Sold one (well, I've got a committed buyer, at least...he left a deposit and is due to bring the balance on Wed.)
Funny thing...I had put the tan Sierra on my area CL twice, and had my share of 'CL morons', as @Mooseman so affectionately calls them. Took the truck to a nearby strip mall that gets a lot of traffic passing by, about noon yesterday.
9:30am this morning, I get the call from the guy who wants to see it, and winds up buying it. Not counting my chickens, but I don't think he'll back out of the deal.
Where I'm amazed, is that it only took me about 1-2 days to sell another vehicle a few years ago, putting it in that same strip mall.
If I ever have another vehicle I want to sell, I guess I know how I'm selling it!
And it looks like the proceeds may already be spent - the new axle on the QS truck is making noise, as well. The conditions under which it occurs make me think it's the posi unit - and if it is, Eaton makes a drop-in replacement. Not gonna put a third Trac-Lok (Dana LS) in.
Went to inspect the front brakes on my C1500, which I have been incorrectly calling the K1500. My truck is indeed only 2wd but K code with the 350. My mistake. On that note... I pulled the slide pins out, which were bone dry. They got a wipe down and fresh silicone grease. The iron on iron caliper slide area was quite rusty so I knocked it all free and put in a small amount of silicone grease and worked it in. I will give GM one on the board for how easy it was to rip the pins out.
Issue 1: The bleed valves are rusted in. I hit them again with a wire brush and penetrant. Using a 10mm wrench I had no give on either direction. I will keep working on them... Not surprising since they had no rubber boot on them.
Issue 2: The driver side outer tie rod end had a decent amount of play in all directions. Just great. I filled it with grease again and dosed everything with penetrant. I ordered some cheapo ACDelco Advantage outers from RA, which should be here sometime this calendar year. They are greaseable, 16 bucks apiece all in and will monitor any wear. I put maybe 4,500km on this truck in 1.5 years so it is not a high miler. Those Moog were my top choice but I wanted to test out the cheapo line.
Oh well, they look original, making them 26 years old with 375,000km on them. For 32 bucks, no biggie. The wife wants me to source out a parts truck as well from Chickenman (aka Towman), who is our local tow truck/wrecking yard guy.
I fit the new $45 "junkyard brush guard" to devise a way to mount it that isn't stupid like the mounts they offer.
I discovered the tow hooks run all the way to the air slot for the power steering cooler. Ding ding ding!
Rather than going way outside and through the tow hook holes like Waag did, I am going to remove some material from the bumper cover in that slot and mount the guard using two L-shaped brackets which connect the brush guard to the tow hook mount points.
My design only uses a 12x12" sheet and 24" of 2" square tube steel.
New upper and lower ball joints for the trailblazer, went with mevotech ttx. All went pretty smooth besides press issues and surprise of the "factory" lowers being different sizes like one had been changed. Still need lower control arm bushings and end links all the way around.