What did you do to your GMT today? [Part II]

[aaserv]

No staged pics, but swapped out 7 quarts of oil and a new filter this morning. While I was at it, went to address the rear diff leak, or so I thought

On closer inspection, not only was the bottom of the pumpkin oily, but the entire assembly, both axles, and the front of the diff was oily too. I wouldn't think gear oil would spread all over everything like that, if the seal was leaking, especially flowing forward. Put the passenger side of the EXT up on a jack stand so I could roll underneath. With some cardboard under the diff, pulled the fill plug, which fluid promptly started coming out of, so I put the plug back. I checked my previous diff gasket order, and it was in 2017, so if it was leaking for a considerable amount of time, the fluid level shouldn't still be at the fill plug level (after sitting parked for 3 days) should it?

More recently, I swapped the transmission pan to one with a drain plug, and didn't tighten it enough, which resulted in a spray of tranny fluid all over the undercarriage. I sprayed degreaser all over everything followed by a rinse to clean things up, but I don't remember if I went all the way back to the diff or not. But leftover tranny fluid spray makes more sense than a sprawling diff fluid leak, unless anyone knows of something I may have missed?

When I found my Transmission rear seal leak 1 of the things I noticed was the look of fluid all over the rear diff. Thats where I thought I had a leak at 1st. The leak is very small but I guess it runs on the driveshaft and sprays out in a pretty wide pattern.

 

[Blckshdw]

When I found my Transmission rear seal leak 1 of the things I noticed was the look of fluid all over the rear diff. Thats where I thought I had a leak at 1st. The leak is very small but I guess it runs on the driveshaft and sprays out in a pretty wide pattern.

That almost tracks, as the drive shaft is clean. BUT, I had my tranny replaced just 3 years ago, so the seal better not be leaking already!!! I'll have to make sure I check the tranny fluid level next time I go for a decent drive to get it up to temp.

 

[aaserv]

Interesting story on my daughters car. I was trying to find a mechanic in Omaha, Neb. to do the work if I got the parts from my friends at RockAuto.com . Well let me tell you honest mechanics in Omaha are rarer than Brandon voters. You can hear about them but good luck finding 1 ! I ckd everywhere, reviews, etc and sent her all over getting prices. Well instead of just telling her they didnt want to do it if they didnt supply the parts (which is stupid but its their choice) they gave her high as G.P. prices. Im talking between $550 and $900 to simply change the pads, rotors and calipers.....on the rear wheels only!!
So she tells me there is a place not far from her apt and they will look at it. She brings it there , they put it on the rack . She goes inside and a few minutes later the mechanic comes back and confirms our diagnosis. They give her a rock bottom price of over $500. This is about the 6th shop shes gone to and Im beginning to think Im going to Omaha to do a brake job. 14hr drive to do a 2hr job and Im not happy.
The next morning she leaves to go to work and finds white paint all down the side of her car. Closer inspection finds someone has side swiped her car. O boy. She heads to work and on the way the phone rings. Its the manager of the shop shed been to the day before. He wants her to cpome by and swap insurance with him as it seems the mechanic had ran her car into HIS car when driving it off the rack and didnt tell either 1 of them!! He wants to file a claim against her insurance. She calls me and I tell her no way. You call the shop and tell them your filing a claim against the SHOPS insurance not his. Their employee did the damage and their insurance is responsible for BOTH cars. They do and she gets a ck for $3800!!! Things are looking up!!
THEN..... She goes to another place and there the guys bring her to work and go back and get her, Fix the brakes with our parts, puts the calipers back in the rock auto boxes and sends them back for my core charge and charges her a grand total of $ 174 !!!!!! We get the brakes done and shes still got $3200 left just in time for the holidays........... I wish I had the name of the shop handy but needless to say if your ever broke down in Omaha msg me cus I got a guy....lol

 

[TollKeeper]

XUV had been sitting neglected for awhile. Needed to burn off the gas in it, and get the engine running. She fired up as if I had just parked it.. Love my XUV. Took it for a drive thru the mountains on Thanksgiving.

Went up to my cabin, for a trip down memory lane. Might be loosing the cabin, so best to get those memories in while I can. It sucks, but my brothers are only interested in the money, and I am interested in keeping this family heirloom in the family.

Dumbasses.

 

[christo829]

New battery and all four gas lifts for the rear hatch and glass.

The old battery didn't take too kindly to sitting more thanks to the telework schedule. New battery has the monitor and a charge port attached to it so I can keep a better eye on it, though I'd like to put small adapters in there to reconfigure how those are attached.

Gas lifts were getting stiff and not lifting the hatch or the glass as far as they should. Almost smacked my head on the latch bump the other day when it didn't go fully up.

 

[Mooseman]

Replaced the right lower ball joint. Keeping the worn TTX one so that when the left one goes, I can just bring it in and get another one right away, no shipping BS.

Then went to Kenny to find another fan clutch. The Hayden thermal I have now runs too much and killing my MPG (just filled it today and calculated 15.5 MPG). Found an original GM from an 09. From the same truck, someone was kind enough to remove the rebuilt ACDelco alternator and leave it there and it also had a new belt tensioner. Also tried to find a decent EV fan clutch but they were all original and junk.

Compared the two and the original looks beefier than the Hayden. (I think it was @JayArr that saw the same thing). Put it in and it didn't roar as much as the Hayden, even when it was cold, and it calmed down faster. My wife was complaining about the roar. I just hope my MPG improves.

The Hayden is on the left.

 

[TollKeeper]

I need to get this mod done on my Saab. My EV fan runs A LOT. Like I can always hear it. I already have it tuned out on the PCM.

 

[Mooseman]

My EV fan runs A LOT

It's probably seizing up or bearings going bad. I'd recommend an ACDelco thermal just so you don't get the startup roar.

 

[aaserv]

Since we're on this never ending topic again I thought Id update my review of the "new" ACDelco clutch fan. Behr the original manufacturer was bought out by Mahle. I have the new ACD fan made by Mahle. My original review was critical as on above 90deg days I was getting 215+ temps in traffic.
Well since that time we have been under 90 degs every day and Ive had no problems at all. Driven it 300 mile round trips, heavy traffic w the A/C on wide open, daily driven all over town, etc and its performed as well as any fan Ive had on it ......and thats a lot of them!
There is a factory software update from GM that addresses the overheating issues with my model (03-V8) so its entirely possible that the new fan is up to standards and my stupidity in STILL not having this update done is what is causing the issue I had at 90deg+.
I believe I bought this fan from Rock Auto but it may have been Amazon. I dont remember but regardless it is supposed to be the newest offering from ACDelco. It was much cheaper than the older versions , I want to say I paid around $140 for it. At that price or even approaching $200 it would be a bargain compared to past models. which went for $240- $300. The local Auto parts stores still get $275+ for them.
Hopefully if anyone does try 1 we'll get another review , in the mean time I believe that they are worth trying .

 

[Blckshdw]

Got under it for a quick check around the transmission for any wetness that could be leading to the wet diff. No dice, everything was clean and dry, no residue on the driveshaft. Didn't spend too much time under there, but now I'm suspecting maybe the drive pinion seal is the culprit.

Checked out the process in GMSI, and doesn't sound super difficult outside of needing special tools to get stuff out. Anyone have any experience changing that seal?

 

[Mooseman]

I did once a long long long time ago. The manual said that the crush sleeve needs to be repalced. Didn't have a torque wrench to install a new crush sleeve so I marked the pinion to the yoke to the nut and just turned the nut a little more to make up for the lost crush of the crush sleeve.

Basically did it the way this guy did but without the impact. I had to fabricate a bar with holes to use the strap bolts to hold it while I loosened and tightened the pinion nut. Don't remember using a puller.but this was about 35 years ago. An impact would help tremendously.

 

[flyboy2610]

Earlier this year I bought a bumper cover at the local automotive recycling facility. I sanded all the gloss off of it, used some plastic adhesion promoter spray paint, and painted it with Rust-Oleum flat black bed liner spay paint, followed by some matte Krylon with UV protectant. The brackets that hold the cover to the truck on the sides were falling off, so I used some black oxide bolts to reattach them. I also used some 5/16" bolts and hardware to attach the bottom corners to the support rods. Hate those push pins!
I finally got it put on today!




The cover was lying face down on a piece of pink extruded foam insulation board, and a bit of it seems to attached itself to the cover!
I'll have to figured out a way to get that off. I can retouch the bed liner, so that's not a problem.
The fog lights I transferred over from the original bumper cover.
I'm not too worried about runs or drips in the bed liner. I don't think it came out too bad!

 

[BrianF]

Did the long awaited oil change in the Tb. 270,000km on the clock and it was last changed April 2020. Broke my filter cap wrench as the extension spun in the slot. Broke out the old strap wrench and it came out. Out was I think Quaker State and in was Mobil 0w30.

Tires were rotated, airednup and everything greased. Now of course the end links proved to be a PIA. they are corroded and took a bit to take grease except one zerk just snapped right off, leaving the threads behind. She just let go with no effort. So that will be addressed some day now.

No staged photos were taken.

 

[BrianF]

Well I regrouped after watching the first how to video on removing busted zerks. Hammered in a T20 torx and just like that the threads turned right out. After the usual dicking around, I just jacked up the side and took the wheel off. Hardest part was closing up the tool clamshell. Did the proprietary spillage of every damn socket I could.

Tomorrow I will wheel my ass into some ag stores and pick up some new zerks.

 

[Mooseman]

Drove the TB, roads were messy and the rear window got dirty. Tried the washer, the wiper wiped but no fluid so it just smeared the grime. Probably a dead washer pump . Was raining today and I have to check my stash of spare parts.

On a positive note, seems to be using less gas with the used OEM thermal fan clutch and no roar at all. Won't know until the next fill when I calculate actual MPG. However did find a Behr EV clutch in my pile-o-parts and may give it a try.

 

[filthyfingers]

Yearly state inspection View attachment 101409
Its been a while since I've had it put on a lift.

My 2002 is on the lift now. Guy says all rotors are shot. He’ll install my parts. Any recommendations out there? I last replaced them myself about 7 years ago. We don’t drive far and we drive slow. We’re old.

 

[Mooseman]

I swear by ACDelco pads and rotors, which are supposedly Raybestos. Another that is very favoured is Adaptive One from Napa.

 

[azswiss]

Finally got around to tracking down the source of the washer fluid leak. The rear pump (below, left) is leaking from the pump body; will add a new pump + seals to the RA shopping list. The temps were quite pleasant so I went ahead and rotated the tires as well. Only negative was finding a torn CV boot on the right side; will add that to the shopping list too.

 

[Ilikemy3s]

Replacement alternator last Wens. Today was a new battery. Guess the past battery just could not be charge to keep up the job

 

[Mooseman]

Did a fill up on Friday and was pleasantly surprised that it went from 15.5 MPG to 16.3 MPG. Almost a whole MPG gain just from the fan clutch change. When I checked it cold, it was freewheeling just as much as the old EV clutch, able to stop it with my gloved hand. The Hayden never did that, always pulling even after loosening up after the initial roar.

Yesterday, took both trucks to Krown for their annual oil spray. Good thing because today it snowed and the salt got spread.

 

[azswiss]

Changed the oil and replaced the rear windshield washer pump. Miller time!

 

[TJBaker57]

Today I will gather some TCCM 4WD data.

As usual I have been noodling about in the inner workings of modules such as the TCCM, trying to find ways to get at data the specific module doesn't give up easily.

I think I have developed a way for me to read such things in Torque Pro and Car Scanner albeit at a somewhat slow refresh rate of perhaps approaching 3 second intervals. If that is all I can get I'll take it.

What I am specifically looking at right now is what is the rotational difference of the two opposing gears inside the front axle disconnect at various vehicle speeds and such. I know the owners manual states one can switch to 4WD mode at any speed but I want to know more about what is happening inside the disconnect at the time of changeover.

 

[TJBaker57]

What I am specifically looking at right now is what is the rotational difference of the two opposing gears inside the front axle disconnect at various vehicle speeds and such

Pretty sure I don't like the idea of meshing those two gears when the rotational difference between them is approaching 1100 RPM!!

Seen here in a Torque Pro screenshot where "FAD_∆" is Front Axle Disconnect delta.

"INT_SHFT" is the intermediate shaft rotating -360.9 RPM in the reverse direction.

 

[Mooseman]

Took the TB out to shop and when stopped, could smell fuel. This pretty much confirmed my worst fear.



Fuel pump leaking probably from a rusted out line. Ordered the Bosch fuel pump and Spectra tank straps from RA (my 5% discount code was expiring on Jan.1) and the lock ring, bolts and line clips from Amazon. Close to $500 total and not including the garage rental I'll have to do.

I needed this like a hole in the head

 

[azswiss]

Went to replace a torn outer CV boot only to find that there was no access to the retaining clip that holds the shaft in place; looks like it is internal to the inner race. Bummer! Not a complete loss as the joint felt a little rough as I moved it around (also, the outer race is showing some discoloration due to heating?). Looks like a visit to RA is in order.

 

[gmcman]

Well,......this was a few days ago, but I was able to pull a little here and there to straighten a few things out....







Long story, but nobody was injured. Still on going so don't want to discuss much but our newest driver "connected" with another young driver and it was just a bad mix of everything with the heavy downpour....was not speed related.

The receiver hitch behind the rear bomber cover of the other vehicle won this engagement. The Emvoy bumper went under the other bumper so the core support was pushed in pretty hard.

I believe it's repairable with minimal body work,.I will need the core support welded and I'm sure there's still alot of fine detail work that needs to be done.

I have access to a black donor Envoy front end so all parts are avail.

I'm fine with the fact it's 20 years old, 335K miles, if worst case comes around.. I have gotten a great life out of it.

However.... in the last year and a half, I've put about $1800 into it with a bunch of new parts given the age, more for preventative maintenance....and it was a turn-key, long road trip vehicle with no worries.

It will need a condenser, radiator, fan, fan shroud, header, lights, bumper cover and what's behind it.

No airbag deployment, just a folded in front end..

 

[gmcman]

Surprisingly enough, I was able to start it and drive into an adjacent lot when I arrived...with some clicking of the harmonic balancer against what was left of a fan blade.

This was before I pulled on it, it was close to being really bad.



Lower core support mount, no frame damage thankfully.




Behind bumper cover.

 

[gmcman]

Fan clutch survived, but not the fan.





Alot of short pulls in many locations from a seldom used winch, helped alot.

 

[TJBaker57]

I had very similar damage just about two years ago from a 60+ mph deer encounter.

 

[gmcman]

I had very similar damage just about two years ago from a 60+ mph deer encounter.

View attachment 106178

Ouch.

Looks eerily similar for sure. I wish that core support was bolt-in but once that gets taken care of, and the fenders line back up where the support meets, then it's a bunch of bolt-ons at that point.

And some $$$ in parts.

 

[TJBaker57]

once that gets taken care of,

I opted to not replace my radiator support. I just pulled, pushed and hammered it into a position to hold everything it needed to hold in their proper place. A few trips to the Upull and back in business. The header panel took me the most time to find one that wasn't already trashed.

 

[gmcman]

I opted to not replace my radiator support. I just pulled, pushed and hammered it into a position to hold everything it needed to hold in their proper place.

That's what I'm trying to do. If I can get it all to line up, then I will roll with it. I want to say I also need to push it down about an inch, maybe less, that might be the tricky part.

I didn't lose any freon and have only slight seepage from the radiator, but both definitely need replacement.

There is just a phenomenal amount of small black plastic fragments.....everywhere, lol.

 

[azswiss]

Installed the new CV axle.



Had to break out the torque wrench multiplier since the outer axle nut torque spec is 177 ft-lbs vs. 150 ft-lbs max on my torque wrench.

 

[808]

Y'all I been *DE-GLUING* some bloody dickens outta my front cover & block(just about to strop), does anyone know if we have a *Cache* of TSB's hanging around -on the site- that are directly related to the LL8? I have been digging and digging and digging through the TSB mountain out there in the interwebsz and have not found an easily appropriated copy of : the TSB: ---> 07-06-01-018 (RPO LL8) <--- indicated in GM Corporate Document PIP4945B

 

[TollKeeper]

As much as I hate to do it.. But...

Compression problem...

www.trailvoy.com

***runs and hides under the bed***

 

[808]

As much as I hate to do it.. But...

Compression problem...

www.trailvoy.com

***runs and hides under the bed***

@TollKeeper sometimes ya just gotta HTML the trailing voy's > lololol *Pirate voice*: "GARRR THEY BE MATEYS TO OUR FLAG, REGARDLESS WHATBE THEIR STRIPES" - Just got e-mailed an exact copy of the 07-06-01-018 TSB from a local dealer, and (((((for all intensive purposes on cross referencing))))), the *EXACT* same procedural scenario that we're all aware of for this in-vehicle-service procedure is available under the 06-06-01-017G Title @ https://www.tsbsearch.com/Chevrolet/06-06-01-017G - LEGEND LINE INDICATING THE 85,000 REPAIR TOME OF YORE @mrrsm so surgically prepared and thoroughly detailed.

 

[808]

Also though, do we have a TSB cache hotlink up on the site? I know @Mooseman THE MOOSE MAN HIMSELF has graciously brought the isuzuzz ASCENDANCING for all of us to cherish on his signature, but I couldn't find a specific grouping of TSB in a forum folder in technical discussion form search, but hey, I could -just not be able to see the forest for the trees- because I've been *underwater* today trying to find 07-06-01-018(now updated to present day -018A) @gmcman you're kicking ass and taking names - @azswiss did you make that torque multiplier? Please forgive me if I'm not noting a badass brand attached to that reveal, but that's a slick form factor design and I haven't seen it before.

 

[Blckshdw]

trying to find 07-06-01-018(now updated to present day -018A)

Pulled this out of GMSI. If you're familiar with downloading torrents and working with VMware virtual machines, you can get a copy here

@SovietExplorer I found the ISO image, and created a torrent, I'll let this seed for a while, see if you can unzip and open this torrent file.

 

[azswiss]

@azswiss did you make that torque multiplier? Please forgive me if I'm not noting a badass brand attached to that reveal, but that's a slick form factor design and I haven't seen it before

Thanks @808. Homemade, nothing fancy. Two pieces of shelf channel bolted together to secure a large breaker bar in place and a large nut on the other end to attach the torque wrench to. Based on the dimensions of the multiplier and the torque wrench the multiple is about 2.6x. (Edit: typo).

 

[808]

Thanks @808. Homemade, nothing fancy. Two pieces of shelf channel bolted together to secure a large breaker bar in place and a large nut on the other end to attach the torque wrench to. Based on the dimensions of the multiplier and the torque wrench the multiple is about 3.6x.

View attachment 106202

@azswiss *Bloody Rippah* Mate, BLOODY Rippah. Very lean industrialism. I dig that table ye got there as well!!!! Nigh invulnerable woodsies all buttoned and snipped right tight - those joints look wicked cozy