What did you do to your GMT today? [Part II]

[Joe_67]

@Joe_67 So with the 3M kit you get about 6 months give or take? I had good luck with the blue boxed Meguiars headlight restoration kit. Its good for light oxidation, but anything heavy requires various sand/cutting discs. With that it would last about 8 months before the protective coating they give in a can starts to disappear.

Played around with the Spring Compressor kit I purchased a few posts up. Its FANTASTIC, no signs of bending or anything! I have to say, its very sturdy and well constructed. It may be due to the design of the clamps, but compressing the spring goes great but when you loosen it there isn't any wiggle room to get them free once the struts assembled. I tried about 3 different times before throwing in the towel. Going to come back to it tomorrow (after the frustration started kicking in), and give it another go.

I also didn't tighten the cap on the jugs used for the old tranny fluid. Went to grab something, knocked it over and fluid went everywhere.

IMHO, any "protective coating" is something like a red herring/snake oil. These cheap plastic things (OEM or not) will oxidize and pit no matter what. So to me it's just a regular maintenance item. If the headlight assys have heavy pitting and oxidation, and if you don't want to buy new ones, then you sand the sh** out of them (5-600 down to 3000). Then you just keep them polished on a regular basis.

A lot of internet advice ends with clear coating them to keep them nice. But the clear coat dies too and then it's a bigger mess. My Envoy has that problem - someone cheap clear coated them and you can see it just break down and flake over time.

But it's not terrible, so I haven't done more than a 3000 sand on the though. I figure if I just do the periodic 3000 wet sand and polish at each oil change (just MY marker) followed by a polishing compound eventually the flaking clear coat will be gone. In the mean time it keeps them looking and shining well enough.

I have to start taking before/afters (which I don't).

 

[flyboy2610]

Put new MOOG 81069 Z71 Tahoe springs and Rough Country shocks on the rear. I have (had) a ReadyLift 2" front, 1" rear leveling kit on it. My original plan was to run the new springs with the 1" aluminum rear spacers, but once I got the original springs out and compared them to the new MOOG springs, I decided not to run the spacers. Old spring is on the left, new spring on the right.


New spring with the spacer on top:


I think the new spring and the spacer would be too much lift back there. If the suspension settles, and I think it needs more lift, I can always go back and re-install the spacers.
Also, on the new springs, I could not tell one bit of difference from one end to the other. On the old springs, the bottom coil is much tighter than the top one, but on the new springs they are identical. No markings, nothing! No installations instructions in the box, either. I finally just picked the end that seemed to have the best fit for the spacer/rubber isolator and put that end at the top. No matter which end is down, the bottom coil isn't going to snuggle the raised area on the bottom spring mount like the old one did.
New shocks and springs installed:


I added a couple of drainage holes at the low point of the shock boot. I have read that drainage is a concern when using boots. But I like the look, so I used them.
The new front 2" BDS top strut mount style lift installed. I made new strut assemblies using Moog springs, Monroe shocks (would have gone with Bilsteins but they were on indefinite back order when I built these up), new spring seat/isolators, and the BDS lift.


The easy way to install a lifted strut is to remove the upper sway bar link, and remove the upper ball joint pinch bolt. Remove the nuts holding the strut to the strut tower, and put a floor jack under the lower ball joint. Raise the jack until it contacts the lower ball joint. Now use a 24mm socket and remove the strut mount nut from the lower control arm. Pop the upper control arm off the upper ball joint, making sure you unfasten the speed sensor wire from the upper control arm. Also remove the two 10mm bolts securing the brake line bracket to the steering knuckle. Slowly lower the jack, guiding the old strut out as you do. To install the new lifted strut, lower the jack until you can get the strut mount yoke back on its stud. You should have already installed the yoke on the new strut. Spin the 24mm nut on by hand, but don't tighten it yet. Slowly raise the jack, guiding the strut mounting bolts through their holes in the strut tower. Spin the nuts on the strut mounting bolts. Now just put everything back together. Easy-peasy!
Since I already had all 4 wheels off, I did a tire rotation as well. I took this opportunity to install new lug nuts. I've had them for a while, planning to install them when I did this job. New lugs nuts are good for 50 more horsepower, and 15 MPG! At least that's what I've read on the internet, and we all know there's nothing false on the internet!


By the time I got all of this done, it was already after 5:00 PM, and getting all hot and sweaty! Not to mention having a rumbly in my tumbly, to quote Winnie-the-Pooh. So this


is going to have to wait for another day! I picked up a bumper cover on one of my excursions to the local automotive recycling facility. I made sure to get one with fog lights, as Snowball already has fog lights. I used a random orbital sander and scuffed the surface until all trace of red shininess was gone! Then cleaned and de-greased the surface thoroughly. Next came a couple coats of Rust-Oleum adhesion promoter, followed by a couple coats of Rust-Oleum spray on textured bed liner, the stuff in the red can. Frankly, I wasn't real impressed with it. I used light coats, but still wound up with some runs. I have since read that others have had the same complaints. The consensus seems to be that the Pro Grade Rust-Oleum bed liner (the white can) seems to work much better. Oh,well. Ya lives, ya learns.
The bumper cover mounting brackets got the same treatment. One of them was broken off when I bought the cover, the other fell off soon after. I have some black oxide button head bolts and nuts I will use to reattach the brackets. I decided to do this just to make my TB stand out a bit from all the other white TB's I see in Lincoln!
Tomorrow I'll give it a test drive to see how it runs. I don't have any fender height measurements yet, but I'll get them.
Right now, time for bed!

 

[flyboy2610]

Took Snowball out for a test drive this morning. Runs and drives quite nicely. No weeble wobbles all over everywhere or anything like that. I do plan on having the alignment checked, though, just to be sure.
I found a nice flat parking lot and took some measurements. These are with a full tank of gas, no heavy load in the back. Measured at the centerline of the wheel from the pavement to the bottom edge of the wheel well.
Front right: 37-1/2"
Front left: 37-3/4"
Rear right: 36-1/4"
Rear left: 36-5/8"
So the rear end is about 1" lower than the front end. I don't believe this qualifies as a Carolina squat, however. I will drive it like this for a week to let the suspension settle, then re-check it with a full tank of gas to make an accurate comparison. The spacers I took out are 1" aluminum, so they may need to go back in, but that's really not too hard to do.
No truck work today. Got other things that need doing.

 

[flyboy2610]

After thinking (yes, I KNOW I shouldn't do that!) it over, I decided to go ahead and reinstall the 1" aluminum spacers in the rear. It was a bit snug just getting the 81069 springs in there, but when you add a 1" spacer, well........
With some help from a pry bar and the handyman's secret weapon (no, not duct tape: ratchet straps) I got them installed. I also replaced the front sway bar links. The TRQ units I got as part of a kit I bought from 1Aauto.com weren't holding up too well, and since I was doing vehicle work anyway I just replaced them. I bought Duralast brand from AutoZone. I've had pretty good results from Duralast parts over the years, aside from their brake pads. Plus they're greasable, which is a plus, and they have flats on the link side to help with installation and removal.
Took Snowball out for a test drive, and while I can tell that the ride is a bit firmer, I don't think it's too bad. It's not like I have stuff bouncing all over the place every time I go over a bump, but I can tell that the ride is a bit stiffer. 6 months from now I won't even notice!
I went back to the same parking lot I used to measure the fender height a couple days ago, and checked it again. The results are:
Right front: 37-3/8"
Left front: 37-1/2"
Right rear: 37-3/8"
Left rear: 37-5/8"
So it's within 1/4" of level all the way around! Good enough for a guy like me!
Maybe next Saturday I'll do something about the bumper cover.

 

[$ Khalid ! 9130]

Been a busy two weeks or so. The Trailblazer and Yukon are being dailied!! TB needs to be detailed from the inside. It has enough dust on it the dash is turning brown

But the most exciting news I know is off-topic but I just received my visa application for Canada!! This was a long time in the coming and I can't wait to start my new chapter in Canada. @Mooseman had the inside scope on this, but I thought I'd wait till everything was done and dusted to announce it.

On a slightly sadder note, this probably will be the sunset of my Trailblazer, as my Dad doesn't want the "downgrade" from his Yukon and it doesn't make sense for me to keep it stored away here. Still have a few months with it and I do plan to enjoy it to the fullest. Maybe I will save the heartfelt emotional post when I actually part with it.



As always this is not the end and I am already shopping for my next GMT in Canada

 

[aaserv]

I have bragged on and on about how much better my truck handles and rides after replacing struts and shocks with Bilsteins and then replacing the rear coils with some later model truck springs.
Well I lied!!! It did feel a lot better than the previous set with 203,000 miles on them but today I went and got 4 brand new Michelins put on and WOW did it make a difference! They brought it around and gave me the keys and in the 50 ft from the lot to the road I thought I was in the wrong car..
Seriously if I had a 60% better ride after the shocks and springs I have a 90% better ride now. Its amazing what a new set of good tires can do. Yea 4 of them set me back $1100 but its worth every penny...
My newest problem is however recurring a lil more often and will have to be handled soon.........My starter overheats after driving more than about 30 mins and i never know if it will start or not if I kill it. I ran a water hose on it last time and got it started in about 15 mins but if no water is available it can be 45 mins or more before it fires up. I knew it had a junk yard starter on it since the day I got it so its no shock that it will have to be changed but having to jack up the motor to get the old 1 out and the new 1 in has made it easy to put off as long as possible...... Making my 3 times a year 375 mile trip tomorrow so got to hope I dont have to stop anywhere along the way.......

 

[Mooseman]

Drove the TB for once. I've been neglecting it as I drive the Caprice and the Sierra mostly. The battery is weak as the battery monitor told me I only had 30% charge left but it still started. I put the charger on it tonight. I think I will also need to address the brakes as the right rear rotor is rusty and doesn't look like it's applying as it also pulls to the left when braking. I have also been toying with the idea of slapping in the Saab's 8.6 3.73 G86 LS diff instead of the stock 8.0 3.42 G80 locker. The brakes on the Saab were near new and working fine when I scrapped it so I may just do a wholesale swap. If it works out, I'll swap the front diff later.

 

[Mike534x]

Got the junkyard 08 thermal clutch installed! After some persuassion from a long flathead screw driver, and few love taps from Mr. Hammer I was able to drive the screwdriver between the old fan and clutch to separate them from whatever the crap was that it was bonded with. Wasn't JB weld like I thought, but since there was a "new" fan I didn't mind getting a little rough with separating them. Wasn't too bad removing and installing them. I lost grip of the clutch and putting a small ding in the radiator . Damage wise it's not terrible, just a few fins bent from the edge of the clutch. Fuuuuu.....well to be honest, the previous owner did worse from what I saw.

So verdict? LOVE IT. In the entire 5 years of owning her, I completely forgot what it was like to hear the fan clutch roar. The old one never did, and was always quiet. It did take a minute, and short drive to get it quiet and then it was perfectly fine for the hour I spent out doing errands. I will say, it does feel a hair better power wise. The A/C was blowing immediately cold, tomorrow will be the real test since it's supposed to be 85*F out. Oh and this thing is firm as can be when trying to turn it by hand, versus the old one that I could move with ease. All in all, I'm satisfied and for $18 I'm happy with it. Now I just need to get the core swap set up with PCM of NC since I can't have her down for a week with everything going on.

Here's a pic of the old clutch, it seems like there's a lot of build up on the seal. I'm wondering if this thing has been weeping for a long time.

 

[TollKeeper]

Found a 02 trailblazer ltz in a junkyard, grabbed the running boards, and installed them on the Saab. #kids #shortwife

Took two tries thou, didn't know they were side specific

 

[Blckshdw]

With the somewhat recent discussions about headlight polishing, I remembered I had an old 3M drill kit in the tool chest. I've been long overdue, as the aftermarket units I used in my retrofit had the UV coating flake off after 18 months, and had gotten pretty dull looking.



Removed the grille, and taped off the surrounding areas, and got to work with the 500 grit disc. Took a minute to get the technique and pressure down. Made another couple of passes after I took this pic, wanted to be sure everything was good and uniform.




Switched to the 800 grit disc and went to town with that one. Honestly, I couldn't tell the difference between the scratches of the 500 and 800 grit discs, other than the color of the dust they made. So part of me thinks I should have switched to additional pads and made more passes.



Switched over to the 3000 grit foam pad for the wet sanding part, grabbed the spray bottle. About 30 seconds in, the foam disc disintegrated and flew all over the place.



I grabbed the thicker foam polishing pad, in a last ditch effort to clean them up a bit, but it was hopeless. When wet, the headlights look pretty good, but as soon as they dry, all the fine scratches make them look even more hazy than before. Looked online, and 3M replacement 3" pads come in much higher quantities that I need. Much cheaper for knock offs, so I may try that. I don't do much driving at night, at least not until we need to switch the clocks back, so it's not an emergency, just more of an annoyance.

 

[northcreek]

With the somewhat recent discussions about headlight polishing, I remembered I had an old 3M drill kit in the tool chest

Just watched a show where they sanded like you did and then sprayed the lens with clear lacquer with pretty good results .

 

[Mooseman]

I tried the 3M kit on the Caprice headlights and, following the directions to dry sand, introduced deep scratches. I used another kit to try and salvage them and mostly did with a few still showing. I then used 3M film to protect them. That was a b!tch to use with the curves and didn't get them on quite perfect but good enough. Seems to protect them well.

 

[Blckshdw]

Just watched a show where they sanded like you did and then sprayed the lens with clear lacquer with pretty good results .

Yeah I had read similar tips on the projector forum when I was really active over there. Getting such an up close look, they need to be opened up and cleaned out, lots of debris found its way in them. Or rebuilt with new shells, but I just don't put the same energy into mods anymore.

 

[TollKeeper]

Yeah I had read similar tips on the projector forum when I was really active over there. Getting such an up close look, they need to be opened up and cleaned out, lots of debris found its way in them. Or rebuilt with new shells, but I just don't put the same energy into mods anymore.

This whole getting old thing? Sucks... I got a 4.10 to put in the envoy.. Been sitting on the floor in the garage for 2 years or more.. Just need to cut my losses and sell it.

 

[littleblazer]

We used the frame machine 9000 to straighten the frame back out on the escalade. I swear that truck is saying "I was dead... three times! let me rest in peace please...." Couldn't even tell now. And it doesn't need a salvage title either... weird.

 

[Blckshdw]

Got my replacement 3000 grit sanding discs, so jumped back on the headlights after work. Smoothed out all the previous scratches, and the lenses were super smooth. BUT, they still seemed cloudy to me, like it was on the inside. Used the rubbing compound and foam pad, and that helped some with the clarity, but there's still a yellow tint going on.

I may double back and try to sand them down a bit more, see if I can get down to some good plastic, beyond the yellowing. Maybe if I can get to that point, I'll apply some protectant to the lens to make them last.

 

[Mike534x]

Had planned on taking the Envoy this afternoon to get an alignment done, that plan went out the window. I was getting a "popping" sound over bumps this morning from the passenger side. Got the truck up on jack stands, and pocked my head underneath. The lower ball joint is shot, grabbed the prybar and there's play in it (the bushing was torn all the way around too). Also found the source of the "slight" pull when braking, the passenger side control arm bushings are shot. The arm is in great shape still, so I ordered the LBJ and arm bracket and should have them Monday. About $90 in total, and here I thought I was done doing more suspension work after getting the struts in.

Also received the new LED's and resistors to redo the window switches. I made the mistake my first round using a flat top kind with 3 SMD's. Turns out it doesn't transmit light very well, after taking a peak at the LED FAQ I ordered a 100 count of the 90* bulb type ones so that should restore the brightness/make it look better. Amazon also sent me an open 3M respirator, with the filters missing (despite the packing/page saying it comes with two). So no Wool Waxing the undercarriage this weekend.

 

[Mike534x]

Ugh what a day.

So I've mentioned prior a few week ago, that when we did the front end rebuild on my dad's 06 Yukon we used Detroit Axle parts. We got the truck up on stands in the garage, and the front end disassembled. The news isn't good. So we need to go a new route. The Detroit Axle Upper and Lower Control Arms ARE NOT compatible with Moog or AC Delco parts. Why? Because the Detroit Axle BJ's are DIFFERENT sizes, we called DA to confirm and they basically told us that we have to USE their BJ's due to the proprietary nature of their size. So they were willing to warranty the part out, if we sent the invoice showing the control arms/balljoints were bad by the shop. They ended up agreeing to warranty it out....for $160 to cover shipping both ways. Yeah no. I'm not looking to do this job a third time 6 months to two years down the road when it fails again.

So the truck is going to be parked in the meantime while we try and fight to get most of the money back on the parts hopefully, and order up better quality ones.

It's definitely a good lesson in you get what you pay for.

 

[azswiss]

Installed the new valve cover with the revised PCV vapor opening & baffling. Big difference between the new unit vs. the original (which, I believe, is actually the second design rev); chief difference is the location & shape of the vapor pickup openings and the addition of two lips to prevent/reduce oil take up. The newer unit also did away with the four oil seep openings near the bolts. I was pleased to see how clean the valves were considering the engine has 178K miles on it; goes to show the importance of regular oil changes (3K miles) with a quality oil. Topped off the oil and will now check every 250-500 miles to see how oil consumption is affected; fingers crossed.

 

[NJTB]

Ugh what a day.

So I've mentioned prior a few week ago, that when we did the front end rebuild on my dad's 06 Yukon we used Detroit Axle parts. We got the truck up on stands in the garage, and the front end disassembled. The news isn't good. So we need to go a new route. The Detroit Axle Upper and Lower Control Arms ARE NOT compatible with Moog or AC Delco parts. Why? Because the Detroit Axle BJ's are DIFFERENT sizes, we called DA to confirm and they basically told us that we have to USE their BJ's due to the proprietary nature of their size. So they were willing to warranty the part out, if we sent the invoice showing the control arms/balljoints were bad by the shop. They ended up agreeing to warranty it out....for $160 to cover shipping both ways. Yeah no. I'm not looking to do this job a third time 6 months to two years down the road when it fails again.

So the truck is going to be parked in the meantime while we try and fight to get most of the money back on the parts hopefully, and order up better quality ones.

It's definitely a good lesson in you get what you pay for.

Mike534x
I'm real curious about this. When I did my front suspension, I used Detroit Axle uppers and lowers, and A/C Delco uni struts. This was about 2 years, 10k miles ago.
What was bad in your front end? Ball joints, bushings?
Did you try to put a different brand ball joints in? What led to your inspection of the front suspension, noise, wandering, etc?
Same as you, I don't want to do this job twice.

 

[Mike534x]

Pretty much everything from Detroit Axle, aside from the wheel hub bearings and cv axles. The upper and lower joints were lose with a lot of play, and the bushings were just gone. The Moog BJs don't fit, they're too big for the hole and would need to shaved down in order to squeeze it in. Had the classic popping sound when turning the wheels or going over bumps, took it to get inspected and an alignment and they showed us the play in the uppers and lowers. Taking it apart reverified everything.

 

[TollKeeper]

I guess I got lucky with my DA parts, no failure on parts so far, and no issues with sizes either.

 

[NJTB]

Pretty much everything from Detroit Axle, aside from the wheel hub bearings and cv axles. The upper and lower joints were lose with a lot of play, and the bushings were just gone. The Moog BJs don't fit, they're too big for the hole and would need to shaved down in order to squeeze it in. Had the classic popping sound when turning the wheels or going over bumps, took it to get inspected and an alignment and they showed us the play in the uppers and lowers. Taking it apart reverified everything.

'The classic popping sound'. I got that, refused to beleive the ball joints were bad since there's so few miles (and time) on the parts. Checked everything else, like you, I really don't want to do this job again.

 

[Blckshdw]

Saturday mid afternoon, made a drive over to Orlando to meet up with some friends for dinner. Hadn't taken a drive that far in a few years, and the last time I did, the tranny ate itself, and I believe plugged up the thermal bypass in the aux cooler I had at the time.

Since the new aux cooler doesn't have the bypass, I was interested to see what the temps did. For the most part it was an easy drive, set the cruise at 70 after finding an open section of highway and left it there. Coolant stayed around 195, tranny was at 175, both give or take a couple degrees. Got near Disney and ran into a parking lot (as expected). Within about a minute, the tranny temp climbed to 188. I knew the residual heat would do that with the airflow only coming from the fan, but after maybe 5 minutes of 1st gear stop and go, the tranny came back down to 179.

To that point I had all 4 windows down, and decided to put them up and use the AC. Coolant went up to 200 and stayed there, but the tranny readings stayed the same at 179. Once traffic got free flowing again, coolant temp came back down to 195, and tranny back down to 175. Made the drive back home at 11:30 PM, and the tranny temps stayed around 168 due to the cooler night time temps. Very happy with the performance of the Hayden model I got. The thermal bypass on the Tru-Cool that I had before was more trouble than it was worth, given the FL temps.

 

[TollKeeper]

Late last evening I installed a USASpec BT45-VETTE into the Saab.. Now have Bluetooth on the factory radio.. Love those things.

 

[Mike534x]

Got the Envoy back from the shop this afternoon. Ended up having them install the new tie-rods I bought last summer, the bolts were seized and would not budge no matter how much heat/prying I tried. They ended up installing the lower ball joint as well, and took care of the control arm bracket. So suspension work is finally done, and it drives great.

Ordered a new driver side master window switch. Mine's having some sort of lighting issue, the lower buttons for the lock/heated seats stopped lighting up. Thought the LED went bad, soldered a new one in and it still isn't working. Reversing the LED's polarity causes it to come on at 10% brightness, which doesn't seem right? Cleaned up the solder and installed one of the working bulbs before making the switch. Nada, still isn't working. Ordered a "new" old stock window switch, that arrived yesterday. Switch is completely dead. Pressing the buttons results in no feedback from the windows/locks, or the heated seats. Plugged in the old one, it works. Seller on eBay is overnighting a "new" replacement. I did stop by Pick n Pull to snag one from the only fully loaded Envoy in their yard, just to have incase this replacement is a dud.

To add another fail on the list, I've gotta make a run to Home Depot or Menards to get new drill bits/extractor. The license plate screws were looking bad, and I needed to replace the LEDs since they developed a flicker and it made the rear looking like a strobe light. Right side came out easy, left side not to much. My drill bit broke off inside the screw, broke another trying to make some room to get the extractor in. No dice, the other screws head came off with a small piece of the drill bit stuck in that too.


Yukon's second front end rebuild is taking place next weekend. New Moog UCA/LCA with the BJ's have been ordered, and the inner/outer tie rods are being installed this weekend for now until everything arrives. DA still isn't responding, so I don't think we'll have luck getting some of the money back from them.

 

[northcreek]

Started doing a pseudo transmission flush on the wife's Nox since I don't have the equipment to do a dealer type flush.

 

[aaserv]

Got the wheels today. They are not factory wheels but the Asian knock offs that have been available from time to time. Put 1 side on just to see if they fit. They do but the front is VERY close. As you can see in the pic there is about a 3/8" gap between the joint and the tire and then the joint hangs over the top of the tire a good 1/2" or so.
Im no front end man plus its late and Im tired so I have a question.
Is this distance going to remain the same as the wheel moves up and down or do I need to do some other modifications.....Looks a lil to close for comfort to me...

 

[Blckshdw]

Is this distance going to remain the same as the wheel moves up and down

Yes that gap will remain constant, all of those components move together when the suspension travels, so there won't be any rubbing on the tire.

When I upsized my tires the first time, I had just about the same gap, when I upsized the 2nd time, it was too much and the tire rubbed the ball joint, so I had to add spacers.

 

[aaserv]

Yes that gap will remain constant, all of those components move together when the suspension travels, so there won't be any rubbing on the tire.

When I upsized my tires the first time, I had just about the same gap, when I upsized the 2nd time, it was too much and the tire rubbed the ball joint, so I had to add spacers.

Thats what I thought but Id rather hear it from someone whos experienced it.... Which always leads me to GMTNation...... Thanxxxxxxxxxx

 

[Matt]

Got the wheels today. They are not factory wheels but the Asian knock offs that have been available from time to time. Put 1 side on just to see if they fit. They do but the front is VERY close. As you can see in the pic there is about a 3/8" gap between the joint and the tire and then the joint hangs over the top of the tire a good 1/2" or so.
Im no front end man plus its late and Im tired so I have a question.
Is this distance going to remain the same as the wheel moves up and down or do I need to do some other modifications.....Looks a lil to close for comfort to me...View attachment 105540

That's not that close.

This is close.


That was the gap when I upsized my tyres. No rubbing issues at all if you stick to 30.6" diameter or under.

 

[aaserv]

What about speedometer issues? I live in the ticket writing capital of the South and 6mph over can get your picture in the post office......

 

[Blckshdw]

Your speedo will be off a little bit. When I was on the highway last weekend, the speedo said 70, but the GPS said 75. You can use any tire size calculator to see what the difference would be.

 

[Mooseman]

Depending on the year, it is adjustable via a tune. 06+ are adjustable.

 

[Matt]

What about speedometer issues? I live in the ticket writing capital of the South and 6mph over can get your picture in the post office......

My 02 was 2mph over the speedo, so not really a problem.

 

[TollKeeper]

My Saab 06 is 3mph high, and I have slightly undersized tires (0.2%).

 

[aaserv]

Drove it around last night. Might be spoiled by the new Michelins but didnt like the way it felt at all. I expected a rougher ride and got it . But handling felt really weird. These tires probably only have 40% of tread left but it felt wobbly and like I was driving a skateboard in turns.
Im going to try to get used to them this weekend, maybe have them balanced but 1st impression is the looks are not worth the tradeoff in ride and handling. Might have some wheels for sale next week.......

 

[BrianF]

I still haven't had time to do the oil change on my Trailblazer. She is doing water trailer duty still. Maybe before the snow flies?? Lol, ya right.

My buddy was having HVAC flow issues in his 2015 Sierra 2500. I asked about his cabin filter....... He did not know his truck had one. Its his work truck and his dog rides along most times.

I forgot to add, I hit it relentless with 90psi of air and smashed it like a rented step child and it was still giving up dog hair from deep in the pleats.

 

[Mike534x]

Spent about 2 hours this morning finally applying the Woolwax, only took a year to get around to it but I'm happy with the results. Added a before and after. There's a few sections I went heavy on it, mostly the front half, and wherever I thought would get battered by the snow and eventual puddles the most. I did miss a few spots in the after image. Didn't catch it until I had the gun and wands cleaned, and stored away. Took the can of Fluid Film I bought to do the doors/lift gate and just climbed under to touch them up. I think this should be fine, especially since it's still needs time to cure which should give fantastic results.

Original plan was go to with the clear/straw colored one, but I figured spending a tiny bit more for the black one would make it easier to look under and see where it needs some loving when it's time to do touch ups in between the seasons. Tomorrow she's getting a nice wash, and two ceramic coats to finish off the winter prep. Depending on how sore my back and shoulders are in the morning will determine if I have it in me to climb under and do the transfer case service too.

 

[Mooseman]

I wish they'd use the black stuff at the commercial places. Looks much better.