smitty5150
Member
- Nov 18, 2011
- 1,069
Lol just the money shot. Took more than just a couple hours, though I did channel my old retrofitter.At least we know your retrofits won't take nearly as long as mine do
What did you do to your GMT today? [Part II]
- Thread starter Mooseman
- Start date
Yesterday I changed the hubs out on my wife's Envoy Denali. I was slowing down as the job as taking very long and wasn't hard. I kept expecting a bolt to fight or hubs to be rusted in. I guess doing the ones on a couple of 2nd gen Blazers, 1997 Suburban and my son's TB gave enough practice. All buttoned and and tested. While check the lug and axle nut torque this morning before she goes to work.
Still waiting on my son to come home from college to change the fan clutch which shipping is delayed on
Still waiting on my son to come home from college to change the fan clutch which shipping is delayed on
xavierny25
Member
Blckshdw
Moderator
Earlier this week, the EXT cranked a little slow one morning, and the interior lights flickered badly while doing so. Turns out something had another cardiac episode just before the evening commute the day before, and pulled the battery down to 11 volts overnight. 
Glad it started all the same. If I hadn't been parked in the garage, I probably wouldn't have noticed.
Finally broke out my meter, and went with the fuse voltage drop method to check for a parasitic drain, hoping that whichever module that does this from time to time, would show some signs. Opened the rear driver's side door, pressed the latch so the truck would go back to sleep, and waited an hour. Took me about 15 minutes to go through both fuse blocks, and there was no voltage drop on any of the fuse contacts. For a quick test, turned on the headlights, rechecked the low beam fuse and got a reading of 1.6 mV, so I know it's not operator error or an issue with the fuse test leads (had never used these from my kit before)
So I guess I'll just have to get lucky, and catch the system having one of these fits, so I can run tests and checks while it's happening.
Glad it started all the same. If I hadn't been parked in the garage, I probably wouldn't have noticed.Finally broke out my meter, and went with the fuse voltage drop method to check for a parasitic drain, hoping that whichever module that does this from time to time, would show some signs. Opened the rear driver's side door, pressed the latch so the truck would go back to sleep, and waited an hour. Took me about 15 minutes to go through both fuse blocks, and there was no voltage drop on any of the fuse contacts. For a quick test, turned on the headlights, rechecked the low beam fuse and got a reading of 1.6 mV, so I know it's not operator error or an issue with the fuse test leads (had never used these from my kit before)
So I guess I'll just have to get lucky, and catch the system having one of these fits, so I can run tests and checks while it's happening.
- Jul 22, 2015
- 2,724
FWIW / FYI... my Sierra never exhibits those fits... it's just a sloooow, steady drain, vs. self-discharge rate disconnected.
I'm sure you've already thought of this, but if yours still has OnStar... I'd look there, as far as something 'waking up' / going into hysteria. They're known to take about 72hrs to finally 'go to sleep', after engine shutdown.
My Sierra still has it, and when I finally take something apart in the passenger dash area, it'll be coming out (mine has the floor console, so it's not something I'm looking forward to).
But since I don't have that spiking, my next likely suspect is the DDM, which is a known drain source on the 800-series trucks.
As for me... I worked on the battery disconnect yesterday (a fiasco; still ongoing), and kinda figured out my radio issue (the underhood fuse). Got the factory unit re-installed and working again, so I know it's not a factory wiring issue. So, 1-for-2... not a terrible day, considering.
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Blckshdw
Moderator
I did, actually had the fuse pulled for OnStar for the past month, until Friday. So unfortunately that's not it. Was kinda suspecting the LGM maybe since it listens for the key fob, but not sure of a way to test that, other than swapping in a different one.
Installed my new Hayden tranny cooler. I remembered after transmission replacement, the initial couple of times I saw the tranny hit 200* during long drives, I bypassed the oem cooler, and tested it just running through the aux cooler and it got really hot really quickly, so it definitely wasn't doing its job. Since the footprint of each is roughly the same, the mounting location was already figured out. The mounting holes on the cooler were different though. Luckily I saved the brackets I made on the original install of the previous one (had to make new ones when I moved it further forward) Just had to angle them slightly, and remove the side plastic piece by the headlight.
The commutes to the office aren't far enough or long enough to get a good test, so I'll have to wait a couple of weeks before I have any planned lengthy road time.
flyboy2610
Member
Built this yesterday:
This is one of two new front struts that will be installed over Memorial day weekend (hopefully).
The strut itself is a Monroe Sensatrac unit. The spring is a Moog 81114. All components are new (spring mounts, isolators, rubber boot, etc.) The top mount has been replaced by a BDS 2” top hat. This will replace the current TRQ strut from 1Aauto.com, which has worked just fine since I installed it last July, and the 2” ReadyLift leveling spacer. The rear will get Moog 81069 Z71 Tahoe springs. I plan to leave the 1” aluminum spacer that was part of the ReadyLift leveling kit in. I'll see how that turns out. If I need to remove it, it's no big deal.
Behind the spring you can see the coil spring compressor I used. That style is (from my understanding) actually designed for MacPherson strut springs, and not double wishbone suspensions such as are on the TB. It did the job just fine, but getting it off the assembled strut was a chore. The blocks had to be moved all the way to a the lower end of the strut before they would pivot down far enough to come free of the coils. And it was rather tight in spots! If you look closely you can see some marks on the spring coating. I'll at least touch those up with some paint before installation. I bought these compressors for my '99 Plymouth Grand Voyager (need to get that running again) and it has MacPherson struts. These are pretty tightly wound with that BDS top hat up there! I think if I had just built a 'regular' strut with the standard top mount I wouldn't have had any problem.
I ordered a new set of compressors for the next strut. Hopefully they won't be such a PIA to get off!
This set has gotten some pretty good reviews, so I sprung for it.
(P.S. I've heard that putting the BDS sticker on will gain me an extra 0.00000000001" of lift.)
This is one of two new front struts that will be installed over Memorial day weekend (hopefully).
The strut itself is a Monroe Sensatrac unit. The spring is a Moog 81114. All components are new (spring mounts, isolators, rubber boot, etc.) The top mount has been replaced by a BDS 2” top hat. This will replace the current TRQ strut from 1Aauto.com, which has worked just fine since I installed it last July, and the 2” ReadyLift leveling spacer. The rear will get Moog 81069 Z71 Tahoe springs. I plan to leave the 1” aluminum spacer that was part of the ReadyLift leveling kit in. I'll see how that turns out. If I need to remove it, it's no big deal.
Behind the spring you can see the coil spring compressor I used. That style is (from my understanding) actually designed for MacPherson strut springs, and not double wishbone suspensions such as are on the TB. It did the job just fine, but getting it off the assembled strut was a chore. The blocks had to be moved all the way to a the lower end of the strut before they would pivot down far enough to come free of the coils. And it was rather tight in spots! If you look closely you can see some marks on the spring coating. I'll at least touch those up with some paint before installation. I bought these compressors for my '99 Plymouth Grand Voyager (need to get that running again) and it has MacPherson struts. These are pretty tightly wound with that BDS top hat up there! I think if I had just built a 'regular' strut with the standard top mount I wouldn't have had any problem.
I ordered a new set of compressors for the next strut. Hopefully they won't be such a PIA to get off!
This set has gotten some pretty good reviews, so I sprung for it.
3pcs Heavy Duty Coil Spring Compressor Strut Remover Installer Tool Suspension | eBay
Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for 3pcs Heavy Duty Coil Spring Compressor Strut Remover Installer Tool Suspension at the best online prices at eBay! Free shipping for many products!
www.ebay.com
(P.S. I've heard that putting the BDS sticker on will gain me an extra 0.00000000001" of lift.)
xavierny25
Member
Swapped out some of the goodies @Mooseman got for me.
New to me steering wheel. Wood grain is a bit different then mine so I'll probably end up vinyl wrapping it at some point but it's way better then what I had.
Smoked side view mirror the old one must of got hit a some point and never really sat correctly and vibration in the wind made it useless. Lastly was the visors but I didn't get a pic of those.
New to me steering wheel. Wood grain is a bit different then mine so I'll probably end up vinyl wrapping it at some point but it's way better then what I had.
Smoked side view mirror the old one must of got hit a some point and never really sat correctly and vibration in the wind made it useless. Lastly was the visors but I didn't get a pic of those.
littleblazer
Member
- Jul 6, 2014
- 9,267
Been driving it all over Long Island. Helping my wife's relative with her upcoming move with purging stuff at the dump and Goodwill. Since she's moving from a house to essentially an apartment, she's giving us her Honda gas pressure washer and possibly a newish BBQ. Might be interesting at the border on the way back.
littleblazer
Member
- Jul 6, 2014
- 9,267
Ditto. Lived in Hicksville after moving from Switzerland.
(Edit: Yes, there really is a place called Hicksville!)
New Suffolk. Just went to Orient Point on a drive today. Day before, we went to Montauk. Nice drives
littleblazer
Member
- Jul 6, 2014
- 9,267
Lived in Dix Hills until I was 5... actually know of Hicksville lol.
New Suffolk is nice. Orient Point is where Dad almost sunk the 33 going down the sound... turned the corner and basically went straight through a 20 foot wave that came from nowhere. Went back through later and it was constant 10-12 footers... Glad I wasn't there.
Spent many, many summers in Sag Harbor. Fished & clammed the Peconic all around Sag Harbor, Nort Haven, Shelter Island, Greenport, Orient Point, & Gardiner's Island. A beautiful area.
- Jul 22, 2015
- 2,724
I'd be more surprised if you were writing this from CH.
Here? Nah...
As for me... worked out the battery disconnect, thanks to a couple of nuts / bolts. My Amzn review reflects the extra effort & expense. LOL
Also figured out my radio issue, so I'll get that wrapped up. And I picked up some more nuts / bolts for next Sierra mod. Pics soon.
Beacon
Member
Went from Staten Island across the Verazzano onto Long Island. Took the LI-CT ferry going back home. Tried to avoid the city as much as possible.
Big day today. Replaced the wipers on the TB and drove it to the grocery store. It needed to be driven.
Sparky
Member
- Dec 4, 2011
- 12,927
Not so much what I did to it as what I did with it. Over the weekend I bought dirt to be used for landscaping repairs on the house. I didn't even think about how much dirt weighs, but it fit in the bed of the truck just fine.
Any idea how much a yard of dirt weighs? Depends on the water content, but a rough average is 2200 pounds.
I hauled 2 yards.
I might have been a tad overloaded for a 1500... oops.
Any idea how much a yard of dirt weighs? Depends on the water content, but a rough average is 2200 pounds.
I hauled 2 yards.
I might have been a tad overloaded for a 1500... oops.
Matt
Member
- Dec 2, 2011
- 4,035
northcreek
Member
Took the old motorhome (Chev G30) in for it's annual inspection, passed no problem. Don't know if we will be doing more than local trips this year with the price of gas being what it is.
At 10-12 mpg you can get up to "Cruise Vacation" money pretty quick...
At 10-12 mpg you can get up to "Cruise Vacation" money pretty quick...
Tried out my ScanGauge II in the Sierra and it basically works reporting the normal readings. Checking on their website, it does work with the the 2.8L LWN Duramax and the 6.6 L5P Duramax so I figure it would probably work with my 3.0L LM2. But I would need the latest firmware for it to work to report the diesel related stuff like the DPF regen. For $25USD + my shipping it to them ($27CAD), I am getting it updated. Worse part is finding a spot to mount it.
carshinebob
Member
- Jun 13, 2014
- 154
I went to drive my blue Bravada this morning and as soon as I turned the key I realized I had open exhaust. Darn thieves got my catalytic converter. They took the one off my parts car too. Only good news was the Blue was covered by insurance. ~BOB
flyboy2610
Member
There are two kinds of people I really can't tolerate: thieves and child molesters.
OK, there are more than two kinds, but those head up the list.
Check with your neighbors. Maybe someone got the skunk on camera.
OK, there are more than two kinds, but those head up the list.
Check with your neighbors. Maybe someone got the skunk on camera.
Insurance companies are totaling cars out because of that.
3 things that are getting harder and harder to get for the everyday user..
Catalytic Converters
Oil Filters
Brake Rotors
3 things that are getting harder and harder to get for the everyday user..
Catalytic Converters
Oil Filters
Brake Rotors
Repaired a couple of stars in the windshield on my '03 Suburban. Used Permatex single use kits and was pleasantly surprised by how well they worked. Reduced the visible nuisance factor by 80%-90%.
Interesting bit of repair in the video posted by @TollKeeper above. Has all the hallmarks of a true craftsman . . .
- Dec 3, 2011
- 386
Over the past few days, got new tires, then put with into show for new front strut assemblies, Drives side axle assembly, steering alignment as well a new exhaust from cat back.
smitty5150
Member
- Nov 18, 2011
- 1,069
Blckshdw
Moderator
Unfortunately, due to my own neglect, the carpet for the 2nd row seats had gotten pretty bad over the years. The worst contributor, was me trying to test out the back seat drink holders, and got a large Sprite from a fast food spot. Thought it would be fine sitting back there, and out of the way. Well it wasn't, flipped right out, spilled all over the driver's side floor and the driveshaft hump. No idea what spilled on the passenger side, but as you can see, it wasn't a pretty sight, which the OEM floormats didn't do a good job of hiding.
Considering these stains have been there more than a decade, I was not expecting any miracles, but wanted to try and get things looking a little better. Had a can of foaming carpet cleaner from my apartment days, that was collecting dust in the back of a cabinet since I don't have carpet in the house, and went to town with it. Let that sit for about half an hour. Grabbed the large and small drill brush and my impact gun, and let those do their thing. I tell you what, I will never use a scrub brush by hand again!
Let things dry a bit, and then went over it with the vaccuum. By no means perfect, and there's still some discoloration, which was expected with the amount of FL summers those stains sat through, but it looks 100x better. Been half considering getting some Husky floor mats for the back, to match the ones I got up front, but I almost never have any people back there, so I've held off.
Also a weird observation, the passenger front seat doesn't slide as far forward as the driver's seat does. Never noticed that before. Is that the same for everyone else?
Considering these stains have been there more than a decade, I was not expecting any miracles, but wanted to try and get things looking a little better. Had a can of foaming carpet cleaner from my apartment days, that was collecting dust in the back of a cabinet since I don't have carpet in the house, and went to town with it. Let that sit for about half an hour. Grabbed the large and small drill brush and my impact gun, and let those do their thing. I tell you what, I will never use a scrub brush by hand again!
Let things dry a bit, and then went over it with the vaccuum. By no means perfect, and there's still some discoloration, which was expected with the amount of FL summers those stains sat through, but it looks 100x better. Been half considering getting some Husky floor mats for the back, to match the ones I got up front, but I almost never have any people back there, so I've held off.
Also a weird observation, the passenger front seat doesn't slide as far forward as the driver's seat does. Never noticed that before. Is that the same for everyone else?
- Jul 22, 2015
- 2,724
Good to hear. I've got one of those kits and have been holding onto it for warmer weather. The Sierra has a medium deep 'chip' on the P/S, near the tint band, up top. If it works there, I'll get another kit and use it for a much smaller chip on the D/S, in line-of-sight.
OMG... I need a rivet gun. The Sierra's headlamps have flimsy mounts and keep breaking. Got a JB Weld kit for plastics and will be using it today; haven't had luck repairing in the past. But I'm tired of buying new lamp assemblies
(I think my new neighbor's kid probably took this one out. "Get off my lawn!")
I have a set that I ordered for my Voy a few years back, but never used them. If you want me to look up the model #, PM me. Can't remember if it's a F/R set, or fronts only. But they're the all-weather (like the Weathertechs) in grey. I'll send 'em for shipping cost.
Now for my latest... I've got two pics, as it may be hard to tell from the first one alone...
Yeah, it's a front hitch (2"). Fairly easy to install - 4 bolts / washers, using the tow hook locations (which I didn't have to remove). Got it from Amazon on a 'return' deal. Was missing the hardware (and Curt wouldn't send replacement, although their site says they will). But a visit to Ace took care of that.
Had to remove the 2 inch grey plastic 'air dam' that attaches to the bumper cover. I could cut it, and probably get it back on. But for now, I'll just store it away. Doesn't bother me to not have it; the one on the Envoy has been missing since I had the cover replaced / repainted, years ago (the lower clearance on that caused it to get caught on deep snow and ripped the cover halfway off).
As for what I'm going to use the hitch for... a couple of different things...
One, I can put a 'platform' on it, and use it for a step, if I need to.
The other... I can hook this up to it.
Which I got on Black Friday, and have had it stashed away, since. Although what I really got it for... was to roll vehicles in / out of the garage (found out after I got it that a 12,000 lb rated winch is really overkill - for rolling weight, a 1:5 ratio is sufficient (meaning that a 1500 lb one would be fine for the Sierra, which is the heaviest vehicle I own)
As far as using it for 'recovery', etc. ... hopefully, I never need it for that. But since the Sierra is RWD, you never know.
As they say... fortune favors the prepared. And I was a Boy Scout back in the day, so there's that. 
flyboy2610
Member
Sweet! That Badlands winch will work well up there! Last February I bought the Badlands Apex 12,000 winch with synthetic rope. I have this hare-brained idea of using the Harbor Freight winch plate (which I bought at the same time) and mounting it between the frame rails of my '04 TB EXT. I've been collecting parts for the job, just need better weather and time! I've pretty well got it figured out how I want to do it.
flyboy2610
Member
Actually did this yesterday, May 9th. I took the day off to take advantage of a beautiful day to some work on the wife's '06 TB.
It's developed a habit of dripping gas when being fueled. It drips right behind the rear tire. The fuel nozzle is inserted into the filler neck all the way, and it wasn't coming back up the filler neck. I thought the neck may have a small leak (it was rather rusty) so I replaced it.
I also replaced the charcoal canister. The bracket was looking rather sad, so I cleaned it up and gave it a fresh coat of paint. It's happy now!
About 6 weeks ago we had new tires put on this TB. I had the shop cut the spare loose from the hoist because the safety latch on the hoist wouldn't release. The tire wouldn't go up and it wouldn't come down, it was just kind of dangling slightly down from where it should normally ride.
Of course this destroyed the OEM hoist. I installed a Dorman 924-509 replacement hoist. Normally I'm not real keen on Dorman parts, but this one had pretty good reviews from what I could find. It seems to be a pretty well made part, installed very easily lining up perfectly with the factory J-nuts. I let out as much cable as I could and gave it a light rub of lithium grease. The spare was installed "upside down" so I can access the valve. This hoist does not appear to have the safety latch built in so it's just the cable carrying the tire no matter which way it's installed.
I have also been wanting to replace the rear differential fluid and change the cover. I tried to remove the fill plug and even with heat and using a 3/8" pipe plug socket (looks like the end of a ratchet or extension, only it's solid) that plug will not come out! The hole in the plug is becoming deformed, so I'm going to plan B.
Cast aluminum covers are available for this differential. Most of them have drain and fill plugs. I'm not so concerned about a drain plug, but a fill plug is a necessity! The drawback is price! $$!
I could drill a hole in the new cover I have and weld a nut to it, using a bolt and nylon washer to make a fill plug. I have a MIG welder, using flux core might be a bit too hot for the cover material. I'm thinking if I go this route to weld the nut on the outside of the cover. Probably use a 5/8" nut and bolt. Thoughts?
It's developed a habit of dripping gas when being fueled. It drips right behind the rear tire. The fuel nozzle is inserted into the filler neck all the way, and it wasn't coming back up the filler neck. I thought the neck may have a small leak (it was rather rusty) so I replaced it.
I also replaced the charcoal canister. The bracket was looking rather sad, so I cleaned it up and gave it a fresh coat of paint. It's happy now!
About 6 weeks ago we had new tires put on this TB. I had the shop cut the spare loose from the hoist because the safety latch on the hoist wouldn't release. The tire wouldn't go up and it wouldn't come down, it was just kind of dangling slightly down from where it should normally ride.
Of course this destroyed the OEM hoist. I installed a Dorman 924-509 replacement hoist. Normally I'm not real keen on Dorman parts, but this one had pretty good reviews from what I could find. It seems to be a pretty well made part, installed very easily lining up perfectly with the factory J-nuts. I let out as much cable as I could and gave it a light rub of lithium grease. The spare was installed "upside down" so I can access the valve. This hoist does not appear to have the safety latch built in so it's just the cable carrying the tire no matter which way it's installed.
I have also been wanting to replace the rear differential fluid and change the cover. I tried to remove the fill plug and even with heat and using a 3/8" pipe plug socket (looks like the end of a ratchet or extension, only it's solid) that plug will not come out! The hole in the plug is becoming deformed, so I'm going to plan B.
Cast aluminum covers are available for this differential. Most of them have drain and fill plugs. I'm not so concerned about a drain plug, but a fill plug is a necessity! The drawback is price! $$!
I could drill a hole in the new cover I have and weld a nut to it, using a bolt and nylon washer to make a fill plug. I have a MIG welder, using flux core might be a bit too hot for the cover material. I'm thinking if I go this route to weld the nut on the outside of the cover. Probably use a 5/8" nut and bolt. Thoughts?
Theres a simpler way if price is the big obstacle.. Do what dodge does. a big fill plug on the diff cover that rubber. Easy to take off, and to fill... You would still have to drop the cover to drain it thou. And you would have to find the perfect spot to drill the hole, and find out how big that hole needs to be.
Dodge Diff Cover for Reference
Fill plug for reference:
www.moparpartdepot.com
Dodge Diff Cover for Reference
Fill plug for reference:
Differential Cover Plug - 2001-2024 Mopar (52070428AA) | MOPAR Parts Depot
2001-2024 Mopar Differential Cover Plug 52070428AA
www.moparpartdepot.com
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flyboy2610
Member
Thanks, TollKeeper! I didn't know they made those!
I would definitely pull the cover every fluid change, anyway. I would want to see what was on the magnet and get a look at the gears. Finding the exact spot would be the challenge. The only really flat area on the cover is right behind the ring gear. I don't know how much clearance for the plug there would be. I imagine the plug could conform to less than perfectly flat area though.
I just watched a video where the guy used a pipe nipple extractor from Harbor Freight and generous application of heat to remove a stuck plug. I might try that first. I go right past HF on my way home from work everyday.
I would definitely pull the cover every fluid change, anyway. I would want to see what was on the magnet and get a look at the gears. Finding the exact spot would be the challenge. The only really flat area on the cover is right behind the ring gear. I don't know how much clearance for the plug there would be. I imagine the plug could conform to less than perfectly flat area though.
I just watched a video where the guy used a pipe nipple extractor from Harbor Freight and generous application of heat to remove a stuck plug. I might try that first. I go right past HF on my way home from work everyday.
If you have a welder, why not just weld a nut on the plug? Same method as for removing broken bolts.
Today I fixed the mirror I bashed into the concrete light post in my driveway while backing out a couple of months ago. Used a 3D pen and ABS to fill it in, then filed and sanded, filled some more, filed and sanded some more. After sanding, it looked kinda grey so I used my new 3" air polisher with some plastic polish. Worked like a charm. Not perfect but better than that gaping hole.
Today I fixed the mirror I bashed into the concrete light post in my driveway while backing out a couple of months ago. Used a 3D pen and ABS to fill it in, then filed and sanded, filled some more, filed and sanded some more. After sanding, it looked kinda grey so I used my new 3" air polisher with some plastic polish. Worked like a charm. Not perfect but better than that gaping hole.