What did you do to your GMT today? [Part II]
- Thread starter Mooseman
- Start date
Drove the Sierra around town with a bed full of wheels and tires. Hard time to find a shop willing/able to do it due to staffing shortages. Went to my previous go-to. They had screwed up so many times before with alignments and leaky tires that I had sworn them off. At least they're cheap. They should be ready tomorrow.
Then went to Costco for an overdue haul of over $500, now that I'm past the quarantine period. As much as I hate Costco, I love it but I always feel so much poorer.
Then went to Costco for an overdue haul of over $500, now that I'm past the quarantine period. As much as I hate Costco, I love it but I always feel so much poorer.
Swapped the winter tires on the TB with its summer shoes. Did a quick check of things and the rear brake rotors were pretty rusty, took them off and cleaned them with a flapper disk on a grinder. Also adjusted the parking brakes. I'll have to replace them, probably with coated rotors. Also noticed that the rear diff is losing some fluid. Not heavy enough to drip but the bottom is wet. Could be coming from the plug.
Brakes are still pulling to the left. Think I'll just replace the front calipers with the ones from the Saab.
Brakes are still pulling to the left. Think I'll just replace the front calipers with the ones from the Saab.
flyboy2610
Member
I found it helps to use a bungee cord wrapped around the slide hammer shaft and axle to keep them in alignment. I use an axle puller attachment like TollKeeper linked to.
aaserv
Member
I seem to live to replace Fan Clutches....lol
Had to change mine AGAIN. I had put a used 1 on my V-8 that had over 300k miles on it but it worked great for a lil over a year. Then when it turned hot (over 90) I noticed the needle heading towards 215 when driving in traffic across town. A lil research seemed to indicate that Mahle had bought out Behr and were supplying their Fan Clutches. Got 1 off Rock Auto for less than $135 so a bargain for an OEM. Out the box I got a lil worried, no markings what so ever and Im thinking "here we go again". But it felt pretty stiff when trying to turn it so I put it on and so far anyway its working perfectly.
A buddy of mine has a 09 6cyl and he needed to change his as well. No wires on his just the friction type clutch. Realized right away I couldnt hold the pump from turning with the same method I use on my 8cyl. Went to AZ and got this Fan Clutch tool. Boy did it make it easy. Took 3 bolts out of the bell used 2 of them to bolt the tool on and broke the nut loose with a 6" pipe wrench. Rental on the tool is FREE and I couldnt be more impressed with how smooth it worked.... This is definitely the Go To tool for this job IMO
Had to change mine AGAIN. I had put a used 1 on my V-8 that had over 300k miles on it but it worked great for a lil over a year. Then when it turned hot (over 90) I noticed the needle heading towards 215 when driving in traffic across town. A lil research seemed to indicate that Mahle had bought out Behr and were supplying their Fan Clutches. Got 1 off Rock Auto for less than $135 so a bargain for an OEM. Out the box I got a lil worried, no markings what so ever and Im thinking "here we go again". But it felt pretty stiff when trying to turn it so I put it on and so far anyway its working perfectly.
A buddy of mine has a 09 6cyl and he needed to change his as well. No wires on his just the friction type clutch. Realized right away I couldnt hold the pump from turning with the same method I use on my 8cyl. Went to AZ and got this Fan Clutch tool. Boy did it make it easy. Took 3 bolts out of the bell used 2 of them to bolt the tool on and broke the nut loose with a 6" pipe wrench. Rental on the tool is FREE and I couldnt be more impressed with how smooth it worked.... This is definitely the Go To tool for this job IMO
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littleblazer
Member
- Jul 6, 2014
- 9,267
Worked on the trailer today. Cheap azz manufacturers weld the leaf spring brackets just on one side. They were starting to bend sideways. I'm also replacing all the nylon spring bushings with steel ones and the bolts make them greasable as well as beefy shackles. Also reinforcing the brackets welding some steel plating between each side. Just have this initial pic for now. I should get some more tomorrow.
flyboy2610
Member
After re-arranging the bedroom furniture yesterday, I went up to Walmart for some things. Came out of Walmart, started up the TB, and I knew right away that she wasn't happy about something! The idle was quite rough, and then the MIL came on. Not only did it come on, but it was flashing! I knew that wasn't good! I drove home and hooked up the code reader: P0302, misfire cylinder #2.
I know that the two most common causes of of a P03** code are bad plugs and bad coils. It was too late and too dark to do anything about it last night, but today after church I swapped coils between cylinders 1 and 2. I figured that if I now had a P0301 code that it was most probably the coil. If I still had the P0302 code I would replace the spark plug and see if the ode went away. If I now got a P0300 code (misfires multiple cylinders) it was most likely that the spark plug went bad and subsequently took out the coil. I cleared the codes and went for a drive. Within a mile the MIL came back on and was flashing. Came home, hooked up the code reader, and read the codes: P0300.
Off to O'Reilly's I went! I bought two AC Delco 41-103 iridium plugs and a Standard Ignition Parts coil, cost me $97 and change. I only bought two plugs at the moment due to budgetary constraints. I'll buy 4 more on Friday, to take advantage of the rebate offer going on on those plugs (buy 4, get a $3 per plug gift card rebate. I know O'reilly's and Autozone both have this, so I'm guessing it's an AC Delco sponsored promotion.)
Came home, removed the old coil from cylinder #1 and set it FAR off to the side, cause it ain't going back on! Pulled the coil off cylinder #2 as well. Changed the plugs on cylinders #1 and 2, put the old coil back on cylinder #1 where it came from, and put the new coil on #2. Cleared the code again, and went for a drive. No more MIL! Took the TB about 20 miles down I-80, ran like she was brand new!
Next Saturday I'll replace the other 4 plugs, because the two that I took out were Autolite AP 5263 plugs. These are not even iridium plugs, they are platinum plugs! I have read numerous accounts across multiple forums about how picky these 4.2L engines are about their plugs, and if it doesn't have the correct plugs that's something I want to get taken care of!
I have a question I would like y'alls input on: Some folks will put a small dab of anti-seize on the threads of the plug to prevent galling or seizing in the aluminum cylinder head, while others say that doing that prevent getting an accurate torque reading when tightening the plugs, plus it can change the heat range of the plug. When I was in auto mechanics class in high school, the teacher said it wasn't a good idea to put anti-seize on spark plug threads, but that was back when most cylinder heads were cast iron. I can see why a small amount would be applied to plugs in an engine with an aluminum head, though.
What say ye?
The plugs that I removed show evidence of anti-seize, but I did not put any on the plugs when I installed them. When I install the other 4 plugs next weekend, should I put anti-seize on them? If I do, I'll go back and put it on the other two plugs as well.
I'm just glad I got 'er fixed!
I know that the two most common causes of of a P03** code are bad plugs and bad coils. It was too late and too dark to do anything about it last night, but today after church I swapped coils between cylinders 1 and 2. I figured that if I now had a P0301 code that it was most probably the coil. If I still had the P0302 code I would replace the spark plug and see if the ode went away. If I now got a P0300 code (misfires multiple cylinders) it was most likely that the spark plug went bad and subsequently took out the coil. I cleared the codes and went for a drive. Within a mile the MIL came back on and was flashing. Came home, hooked up the code reader, and read the codes: P0300.
Off to O'Reilly's I went! I bought two AC Delco 41-103 iridium plugs and a Standard Ignition Parts coil, cost me $97 and change. I only bought two plugs at the moment due to budgetary constraints. I'll buy 4 more on Friday, to take advantage of the rebate offer going on on those plugs (buy 4, get a $3 per plug gift card rebate. I know O'reilly's and Autozone both have this, so I'm guessing it's an AC Delco sponsored promotion.)
Came home, removed the old coil from cylinder #1 and set it FAR off to the side, cause it ain't going back on! Pulled the coil off cylinder #2 as well. Changed the plugs on cylinders #1 and 2, put the old coil back on cylinder #1 where it came from, and put the new coil on #2. Cleared the code again, and went for a drive. No more MIL! Took the TB about 20 miles down I-80, ran like she was brand new!
Next Saturday I'll replace the other 4 plugs, because the two that I took out were Autolite AP 5263 plugs. These are not even iridium plugs, they are platinum plugs! I have read numerous accounts across multiple forums about how picky these 4.2L engines are about their plugs, and if it doesn't have the correct plugs that's something I want to get taken care of!
I have a question I would like y'alls input on: Some folks will put a small dab of anti-seize on the threads of the plug to prevent galling or seizing in the aluminum cylinder head, while others say that doing that prevent getting an accurate torque reading when tightening the plugs, plus it can change the heat range of the plug. When I was in auto mechanics class in high school, the teacher said it wasn't a good idea to put anti-seize on spark plug threads, but that was back when most cylinder heads were cast iron. I can see why a small amount would be applied to plugs in an engine with an aluminum head, though.
What say ye?
The plugs that I removed show evidence of anti-seize, but I did not put any on the plugs when I installed them. When I install the other 4 plugs next weekend, should I put anti-seize on them? If I do, I'll go back and put it on the other two plugs as well.
I'm just glad I got 'er fixed!
aaserv
Member
From what I understand using anti-seize is not really necessary and can throw off the tightening torque by like 25%. So the advice is if you use it to lower the torque spec by 25%. I dont think id trust all that so I wouldnt use it. No need to complicate such a routine job.
I've always used antiseize in aluminum heads. I've seen too many getting galled threads when pulled out. Never used a torque wrench, just a nice snug fit. Never a problem.
And be sure to remove the plugs on a stone cold engine. Another reason for galled threads.
And be sure to remove the plugs on a stone cold engine. Another reason for galled threads.
The anti sieze is for getting the plugs back out after 100,000 miles. As Mooseman said, you don't want the threads to gall, whole other set of prooblems.
coolride
Member
I anti-sieze everything that crosses my path. Spark plugs included. And I lower the torque spec by 25%. But for spark plugs, it's just a snug fit.
I use Gear Oil, and lube up the threads. Been doing it for 35 years, no problems yet... But I didnt own a Aluminum Engine until 15 years ago..
northcreek
Member
Took Wife's Nox in for NYS annual inspection .Since she just turned 100k miles (the Nox not my wife) I treated it to some 19" Michelin Defender tires, my new favorite tire...
flyboy2610
Member
Thanks to all who replied! 
Sounds like a bit of anti-seize is the way to go. I have read that nickel based ant-seize is the best to use for this application as it's more heat resistant. My plan is to do the remaining 4 plugs on Saturday, weather permitting. Here in Lincoln, Ne we're in a bit of an "unsettled" weather pattern.
Speaking of which: When I got back from O'Reilly's yesterday it was 12:15, and we had storms on the way. I wish I could have let the TB sit for 3 hours, but I don't have a garage and needed to get this job done. I let it sit for 45 minutes and then started on it.
By the time I got to the plugs, the engine was no longer boiling hot but it was still pretty warm! The plugs came out easily, after a nudge with a ratchet and 18" piece of pipe. They weren't in there gorilla tight or anything like that. When I installed the new plugs I just put them in the spark plug socket and used an extension to start them in by hand. I screwed them all the way in to snug by hand, no ratchet used. I torqued them to 156 inch lbs, or 13 foot lbs if you prefer that measurement.
Given that they were installed in a warm engine, and to manufacturer spec, do you think I should let the engine warm up before removing those two plugs? Aluminum expands more than steel when hot, so the grip on the plugs should be loosened, correct? I would let the engine cool down completely before doing the other 4 plugs. I didn't clean out any remaining old anti-seize when I installed the 2 new plugs.
Don't want to bugger up the threads in the head. And I never use power tools on spark plugs!
Sounds like a bit of anti-seize is the way to go. I have read that nickel based ant-seize is the best to use for this application as it's more heat resistant. My plan is to do the remaining 4 plugs on Saturday, weather permitting. Here in Lincoln, Ne we're in a bit of an "unsettled" weather pattern.
Speaking of which: When I got back from O'Reilly's yesterday it was 12:15, and we had storms on the way. I wish I could have let the TB sit for 3 hours, but I don't have a garage and needed to get this job done. I let it sit for 45 minutes and then started on it.
By the time I got to the plugs, the engine was no longer boiling hot but it was still pretty warm! The plugs came out easily, after a nudge with a ratchet and 18" piece of pipe. They weren't in there gorilla tight or anything like that. When I installed the new plugs I just put them in the spark plug socket and used an extension to start them in by hand. I screwed them all the way in to snug by hand, no ratchet used. I torqued them to 156 inch lbs, or 13 foot lbs if you prefer that measurement.
Given that they were installed in a warm engine, and to manufacturer spec, do you think I should let the engine warm up before removing those two plugs? Aluminum expands more than steel when hot, so the grip on the plugs should be loosened, correct? I would let the engine cool down completely before doing the other 4 plugs. I didn't clean out any remaining old anti-seize when I installed the 2 new plugs.
Don't want to bugger up the threads in the head. And I never use power tools on spark plugs!
flyboy2610
Member
Looks good!Took Wife's Nox in for NYS annual inspection .Since she just turned 100k miles (the Nox not my wife) I treated it to some 19" Michelin Defender tires, my new favorite tire...
flyboy2610
Member
I finally made time for the 93 1500 today. Well, it made me make time. So as some may remember, it was having starter issues. Today she died for good and needed a tow out of the pasture.
I ran into the napa in Crimetown and picked up a new solenoid. About an hour and a half to pull the absolutely oil and dirt soaked starter, sweat a bit as I was working on sand. Popped the new one in and she fires up like a boss. Should have did this months ago. 17 bucks in parts.
I ran into the napa in Crimetown and picked up a new solenoid. About an hour and a half to pull the absolutely oil and dirt soaked starter, sweat a bit as I was working on sand. Popped the new one in and she fires up like a boss. Should have did this months ago. 17 bucks in parts.
Took a (very large) chunk of road concrete to the P/S headlight, fractured the poor thing - I'm just glad it wasn't the windshield! I saw it pop up from a semi-trailer tire in front of me, too much traffic to avoid it completely. Anyway, got my headlight assemblies earlier today, and swapped them out. Wow - my old lens were super yellow; looks totally different with shiny new chrome lights (and LED headlamps 
).
I also can't believe I struggled with them - tried resurfacing the lenses; sanding and polishing; but I guess after 20 years, the plastic was just done - and the D/S adjuster has been broken since day one (that I got it); I has a zip-tie /holding/ it to about the right aim (which to say, not really close at all! mostly pointed down at the road).
I should have replaced them a LONG time ago - especially since I think I've spent $40+/- on 'headlight restoration' kits.
Before (sorry not in truck, thought to take pics after job was done) - notice zip-tie modification
After:
).I also can't believe I struggled with them - tried resurfacing the lenses; sanding and polishing; but I guess after 20 years, the plastic was just done - and the D/S adjuster has been broken since day one (that I got it); I has a zip-tie /holding/ it to about the right aim (which to say, not really close at all! mostly pointed down at the road).
I should have replaced them a LONG time ago - especially since I think I've spent $40+/- on 'headlight restoration' kits.
Before (sorry not in truck, thought to take pics after job was done) - notice zip-tie modification
After:
flyboy2610
Member
I got the other 4 spark plugs replaced. Put some anti-seize on all 6 plugs. Runs like new!
I wanted to put the AC gauges on to check the pressures and make sure everything was in top shape, but ran out of time before the crappy weather hit.
I lost my deep 10mm 1/4" drive socket somewhere down the driver's side of the engine compartment. I looked all over everywhere for it, no can findy! I'll probably find it some time when I have the wheels off for something. Hate when that happens!
I wanted to put the AC gauges on to check the pressures and make sure everything was in top shape, but ran out of time before the crappy weather hit.
I lost my deep 10mm 1/4" drive socket somewhere down the driver's side of the engine compartment. I looked all over everywhere for it, no can findy! I'll probably find it some time when I have the wheels off for something. Hate when that happens!
Took advantage of a slight dip in temperature today (101F vs. 113F this past weekend) to change the oil. Oil consumption holding steady at 1QT per 1500 miles; not great but at 177K miles I can live with it. Coming up on emissions testing time so I ran a complete DTC scan and O2 sensor test; no DTC's and the O2 sensors are right where they need to be. Gotta love keeping an older vehicle running when it comes to registration fees, it will run $51 for two years!
Edit: Just for reference, this is a 2003 (Gen III) 5.3L Suburban
Edit: Just for reference, this is a 2003 (Gen III) 5.3L Suburban
Last edited:
Mike534x
Member
- Apr 9, 2012
- 1,019
Finally gave the Envoy a little loving after a LONG two months of work. I despise going through car washes, and took her through a touchless just to get her prepped for this weekend. The ceramic coating I put on last summer is still somewhat there, definitely gone towards the fenders from all the crap hitting it this winter. Ordering touch up paint, because people seem to love nicking the door trim if only they knew NOT to swing the doors out every time they need to get out of their cars. 
Bosses boss got a new company car to drive around in, semi-loaded 2021 Tahoe LT. Its pretty nice, aside from the fact it dropped a lifter. Limped it over to the Chevy dealer near our office. Something oddly hilarious and satisfying hearing the sound of a failed lifter echoing off the service lane walls that makes the service writers turn their heads. Better yet.....the truck JUST rolled over to 5k. We also had a RAM 2500 come back from Dodge, after 3 months of waiting due to the 6.4L (I think it had 20k) spun a bearing.
Bosses boss got a new company car to drive around in, semi-loaded 2021 Tahoe LT. Its pretty nice, aside from the fact it dropped a lifter. Limped it over to the Chevy dealer near our office. Something oddly hilarious and satisfying hearing the sound of a failed lifter echoing off the service lane walls that makes the service writers turn their heads. Better yet.....the truck JUST rolled over to 5k. We also had a RAM 2500 come back from Dodge, after 3 months of waiting due to the 6.4L (I think it had 20k) spun a bearing.
flyboy2610
Member
Coming home from church today, I could hear a rubbing/slight grinding noise from the left front wheel every time I made a left turn. It didn't matter whether the brakes were applied or not. I got home, put Snowball up on jack stands and took the front wheels off. Everything was German: Guttenteit. I did notice that the tie rod boot on the outer end (left side) had come loose. I don't have any band clamps that size, so I used a heavy duty zip tie on it for now. I'll get some band clamps. That was the only thing I could find wrong. Everything else looked good.
I did discover another project for the week of July 4th, when I'll be off work all week. I had already planned to replace the front leveling kit (death lift) with some struts I made up using a BDS 2” lift kit, and install new Rough Country shocks and Z71 Tahoe springs in the rear. The two front body mounts need to be replaced!
Roseanne Roseannadanna was right: It's always something! If it's not one thing it's another! Either your front end is making freaky noises, or your body mounts take a dump on you! Oh, well. I'll replace 'em.
When I removed the wheels, I took the passenger side off first, then did the drivers side. The first three lug nuts came off with no problem, but the last three didn't want to budge! I knew they weren't on there THAT tight, because I always use a torque wrench and torque them to 105 ft. lbs. I tried all three of the remaining drivers side lug nuts, no go on any of them. Then I noticed that those three lug nuts were rounding off. That's when I took a good look at the 19mm impact socket:
Great. I grabbed my 3/4” impact socket and the remaining nuts were soon off the wheel! I guess I shouldn't be surprised that the 19mm died. It's part of a set from Harbor Freight (the cheap ones) that's been used and abused for at least 15 years!
After putting a new zip tie on the tie rod boot, I put the wheels back on. I keep some spare lug nuts in a baggie with the jack equipment in the rear of the TB, so I was OK there. Then I went for a drive.
No more noise! Maybe it was just that tie rod boot rubbing the tire in a turn. It shouldn't be, but who knows?
I stopped by Menards and bought a new 19mm impact socket. I'm rather impressed with their MasterForce line of tools. I've had pretty good success with them. I've also decided to replace all the lug nuts. I have a feeling that the remaining lug nuts are all original to the truck.
I did discover another project for the week of July 4th, when I'll be off work all week. I had already planned to replace the front leveling kit (death lift) with some struts I made up using a BDS 2” lift kit, and install new Rough Country shocks and Z71 Tahoe springs in the rear. The two front body mounts need to be replaced!
Roseanne Roseannadanna was right: It's always something! If it's not one thing it's another! Either your front end is making freaky noises, or your body mounts take a dump on you! Oh, well. I'll replace 'em.
When I removed the wheels, I took the passenger side off first, then did the drivers side. The first three lug nuts came off with no problem, but the last three didn't want to budge! I knew they weren't on there THAT tight, because I always use a torque wrench and torque them to 105 ft. lbs. I tried all three of the remaining drivers side lug nuts, no go on any of them. Then I noticed that those three lug nuts were rounding off. That's when I took a good look at the 19mm impact socket:
Great. I grabbed my 3/4” impact socket and the remaining nuts were soon off the wheel! I guess I shouldn't be surprised that the 19mm died. It's part of a set from Harbor Freight (the cheap ones) that's been used and abused for at least 15 years!
After putting a new zip tie on the tie rod boot, I put the wheels back on. I keep some spare lug nuts in a baggie with the jack equipment in the rear of the TB, so I was OK there. Then I went for a drive.
No more noise!
Maybe it was just that tie rod boot rubbing the tire in a turn. It shouldn't be, but who knows?I stopped by Menards and bought a new 19mm impact socket. I'm rather impressed with their MasterForce line of tools. I've had pretty good success with them. I've also decided to replace all the lug nuts. I have a feeling that the remaining lug nuts are all original to the truck.
littleblazer
Member
- Jul 6, 2014
- 9,267
littleblazer
Member
- Jul 6, 2014
- 9,267
If I told you I used it to pull out a stuck F250 superduty no one would believe me... wish I had a photo of the "little chevy" pulling a superduty out of a sand pit. 
Didn't even spin my tires.
Didn't even spin my tires.
Mike534x
Member
- Apr 9, 2012
- 1,019
@littleblazer That blue is still eye popping, with the metallic/majestic red coming in second.
Ordered a new fan clutch for the Envoy. With the heat we've had the past few weeks being in the high 90s-100*F, the A/C has been acting weird. Its nice and cold when driving, and blows warmish when stopped at a light or in traffic. Oddly enough, I was under the assumption the clutch should engage when the A/C is running, and it doesn't seem like it is. Passes the towel test, and temps never reach anywhere above 205*F. Wondering if the clutch is weak, but not weak enough to trigger anything but its spinning *enough* that its staying within spec. It appears to be the original factory Behr unit, so at 212k that isn't too bad.
If this solves it, I may just keep it or send it back and order the thermal based one. Just time/work is keeping me from having the Envoy down waiting for the PCM re-flash to remove the fan codes/CEL.
Ordered a new fan clutch for the Envoy. With the heat we've had the past few weeks being in the high 90s-100*F, the A/C has been acting weird. Its nice and cold when driving, and blows warmish when stopped at a light or in traffic. Oddly enough, I was under the assumption the clutch should engage when the A/C is running, and it doesn't seem like it is. Passes the towel test, and temps never reach anywhere above 205*F. Wondering if the clutch is weak, but not weak enough to trigger anything but its spinning *enough* that its staying within spec. It appears to be the original factory Behr unit, so at 212k that isn't too bad.
If this solves it, I may just keep it or send it back and order the thermal based one. Just time/work is keeping me from having the Envoy down waiting for the PCM re-flash to remove the fan codes/CEL.
flyboy2610
Member
That reminds me of a question I've been meaning to ask: Is it possible to replace an electronic fan clutch on my '04 TB EXT with a thermal clutch from a later model year (both 4.2 I6) without messing anything up re. the 5 volt reference signal? Could I just leave the fan clutch connector unplugged or does the ECM need to be reprogrammed as well? I've been wondering how much longer my OEM fan clutch is going to last.
Blckshdw
Moderator
I did this on my 05 EXT. I put some electrical tape over the connector to keep water and dust out of it. Had the DTC tuned out so the CEL didn't come on. Been running great ever since.
Mike534x
Member
- Apr 9, 2012
- 1,019
With the thermal based one installed, did it seem to make a difference as far the A/C goes? I know performance wise it won't affect anything, aside negating zapping power away from the engine when running but does it seem to blow consistently vs how the EV one operates?
Blckshdw
Moderator
Honestly I can't tell any difference, although my AC always stayed cold at idle before as well.
littleblazer
Member
- Jul 6, 2014
- 9,267
Thank you.
And as far as A/C performance, mine got warmer at idle... maybe 45-50 degrees at the vent on a 90+ degree day. But not anything uncomfortable. None of my EVs ever worked
flyboy2610
Member
Is this something you had done at the dealer, or did you do it at home with a scanner?
Blckshdw
Moderator
A buddy of mine has HP Tuners, I had my PCM mail order tuned previously and he was the one to flash it for me, so was just a matter of going in and turning off that one code. Can't remember which one it was off the top of my head, but leaving it on won't necessarily hurt anything. You'd just have to scan periodically to see if there were any other codes present.
flyboy2610
Member
Mike534x
Member
- Apr 9, 2012
- 1,019
Received the Hayden fan clutch a few days ago, after some debating I'm sending it back. I ended up ordering the AC Delco 15-40144 thermal clutch. I figured, of I'm going through the hassle of swapping it out, might as well be for the better one! I ended up contacting Kelly at PCM of NC. They have a core program for the 05 year, so I'll be getting another PCM with the fan codes removed, and some other tweaks I'm having added. All in all, with the core charge it ended up being cheaper then just paying for the reflash.
Yeah, the Hayden was dethroned as the best cost vs. quality. One member compared between Hayden and ACDelco electro-viscous clutches and the latter was a much better build quality and operated according to specs. The thermal will likely be the same and will last longer.
Mike534x
Member
- Apr 9, 2012
- 1,019
Funny enough that was the thread I came across earlier in the week. After seeing the data, and quality differences I feel much better about going with the AC Delco one. Now the fun part....figuring out a way to swap the fan clutches without having to remove the upper rad hose and go through the nightmare of bleeding the system. I realllllly don't want to go through that again. 
Blckshdw
Moderator
Now the fun part....figuring out a way to swap the fan clutches without having to remove the upper rad hose and go through the nightmare of bleeding the system. I realllllly don't want to go through that again.
I actually managed to do this without removing the shroud (completely) when I swapped mine. Still had to remove the screws holding the top of the shroud to the radiator, but after removing the fan blade bolts, and spinning the nut loose, I was able to tilt the shroud and fan back towards the engine and wiggle the clutch out between the shroud and top of the radiator.
