Transmission removal inspection repair install

gmcman

Member
Dec 12, 2011
4,666
For the taps in every gear, is the vehicle stationary and you are selecting each gear, or are you driving it? If stationary, you should only have 1st engaged when in 1-3-D, and 2nd engaged if in 2.

Are the torque converter bolts tight?

How long did the engine run before you shut it down? Are you sure the pump is getting fluid? I agree a pressure test would tell a lot.

I don't know the protocol for the 1st run on a rebuilt trans, but I would suspect raising the rear wheels off the ground and let everything turn slowly under minimal load.
 

Uncleenvoy

Original poster
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Feb 12, 2020
545
Ny
@JayArr i think i know how to do pressure test..there was a nut on the side of the case that looked like it didnt serve a purpose but thinking of it now it would be perfect for pressure test...no xtra pump parts.. dont think i had to change anything in the pump ill gi back and check..and you said it brother..i swear the first thing i said to myself while sitting there realizing im in for round 2 was "glad i put that drainplug in"
 

Uncleenvoy

Original poster
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Feb 12, 2020
545
Ny
@gmcman. Vehicle is sitting like this..still on front ramps so didnt drive it.torque converter bolts are tightend down to spec 44lbs i believe..once fluid was in i started her up let in run for about 10 mins to get the flulid going then let put in neutral and let it run while i jacked it up and removed the 2 yellow ramps from the rear tires u can see one if them on the left here..put it in every gear to make sure its set..i can hear and feel when it goes from P to R to N to D..no noticable diff from 3 2 and 1..ill doublecheck..the tapping noise didnt start right away i think 3rd time i started it and went thru gears i heard it..ran for prob 30 to 40 mins accumulated time not continuously b4 i turned it off..pressure test is next step.. @JayArr so true taking it apart the 2nd time is gonna be a cinch i can go from memory every step..
 

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gmcman

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Dec 12, 2011
4,666
When you select D from a standstill, you have commanded the trans to engage 1st, same as 3. The only difference is 2nd, this engages the band and allows you to take off from a start in 2nd gear to reduce wheelspin under slippery conditions.

So when stopped, D is 1st gear, 3 is 1st gear,.there is no difference.

Did you use a rubber tipped blow gun with about 30 psi to test clutch engagements and leaks during reassembly?
 

gmcman

Member
Dec 12, 2011
4,666
Something else came to mind, pump alignment.

Curious to how you ensured both parts were aligned. Not doubting you, just ccurious as this is a diagnosis.
 

Uncleenvoy

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Feb 12, 2020
545
Ny
@gmcman no worries all criiticism welcomed..im humble..learning as i go..i didnt do anything particular as far as alignment..just stuck the pump in the bellhousing made sure it was fully seated and when i mated it i just aimed for the dowel..wouldnt the process of bolting the plate to converter ailign it?..speaking of dowels i saw somewhere that they're 2 but im pretty sure i only saw one on the drivers side..once i take it off again ill be sure to take pics and take a good look at the engine side..thats something i neglected to do, that certainly would if avoided the "not realizing the plate had 2 tpyes of holes" issue that i ran into
 

gmcman

Member
Dec 12, 2011
4,666
In regards to the pump, did you take it apart? If so, both halves need to be aligned when reassembling them.

I don't know how critical that step is, but it is a well-documented step to ensure the pump is aligned.
 

Uncleenvoy

Original poster
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Feb 12, 2020
545
Ny
@gmcman yea..post #153 page 5 in this thread

 

Uncleenvoy

Original poster
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Feb 12, 2020
545
Ny
Had to take off drive shaft and neutral safety switch and use the 90 degree adaptor
 

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gmcman

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Dec 12, 2011
4,666
Any success on uploading the video? YouTube is a good option, you can choose to keep it unlisted.
 

Uncleenvoy

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Feb 12, 2020
545
Ny
Anyone know what the avereage psi is supposed to be at idle..the book shows the pressures if i incremetly increase amperage to the PCS..i dont have a tech 2 or bidirectional scanner..
 

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Uncleenvoy

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Feb 12, 2020
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Ny
Getting 60psi in PND321 and and 90 in reverse i let the engine get to normal running temps and numbers were the same..im betting i broke the plastic circle that holds the vanes in the pump during reinstallation..55 to 189 according to book so average is 122 for PDN. and 64 to 324 avg is 194 for reverse..so im way low on the spectrum for both..gotta go take care if some biz but ill try and take apart what i can today if i get back b4 dark
 

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gmcman

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Dec 12, 2011
4,666
Are you sure that a valve isn't bleeding off pressure? I don't know if that would be the issue, but something to consider.
 

JayArr

Member
Sep 24, 2018
544
Mission BC Canada
Well, that may be good news in that you won't have to disassemble the whole transmission. Just drain the fluid, pull the bell housing and then pull the pump. You can leave the bottom end alone and you don't have to go into the gear sets.

I hope you find something really obvious in the pump.
 

Uncleenvoy

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Feb 12, 2020
545
Ny
I dont know..how can i test for that?probably would need the bidirectional tool to activate each valve..but the broken pump vane thing would explain the noise as well..this circle in the middle that holds the small metal blades
 

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Uncleenvoy

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Feb 12, 2020
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EXCELSIOR!!! Guess who reversed out of the driveway on her own and got up to 65mph on the highway...No tapping noise, slipping,banging late shifts or anything..i was all set to disassemble and got to thinking " if the pump was broken. I shouldnt have any pressure at all or it should be fluctuating at least".so started her up and revved in park got no movement in pressure..put in reverse and reveed and the pressure jumped to almost 200.so revved it up more to 3000rpms and boom she moved..i dont know but maybe the wheels were locked up from sitting on the stands so long or things just needed some time to get aquainted in there..but shes good..a little wobbly in the front end over 50 and the abs/brake light is still on and got a p00917 code and a p0014 pending..i'll deal wiih those after i take off pressure gauge and put back front drive shaft..cheeks are hurting since ive been smiling so hard..i have succesfully removed, inspected,repaired and reinstalled a 4l60E transmission..BIG THANKS to @Mooseman. @MRRSM @gmcman @NJTB @xavierny25 @JayArr and everyone else that commented and or has been following in silence thanks for the advice,vid links and not slamming me too hard when i messed sumthing up
 

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Uncleenvoy

Original poster
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Feb 12, 2020
545
Ny
Also it was a little joonky at first while reversing out of the driveway..wouldnt move unless i pressed gas..did a little local drive a few blocks b4 i went on the highway and no longer had that problem..i put it in reverse let off the gas and she moved on just the idle power with no probs
 

Mooseman

Moderator
Dec 4, 2011
26,041
Ottawa, ON
Are you sure you put the torque converter in properly on the shaft engaging the pump tangs? Many have destroyed the pump if the TC isn't in right.

Edit: ignore the above. Missed a whole page of posts.

For videos, you have to upload it to YouTube and then post a link to it.
 

MBS1994

Member
May 26, 2019
326
Colorado
Now that it's done I feel comfortable asking. How bad is it to remove and reinstall? I've been wanting to do a torque converter and boost valve as part of my shift kit in my pump.
 

Uncleenvoy

Original poster
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Feb 12, 2020
545
Ny
@MBS1994 to be honest not that bad..things took a little longer than it should've just due to the simple fact ive never done it b4..the hardest part of the removal was getting the 2 top bolts of the bell housing to engine because of the 2 vent hoses that block it..i had to go buy a 20 inch ratchet extension and add a 3inch and 6 inch extension that was pretty frustrating.you gotta kinda tug hose to the left or right depending on which one ur working on at the time and try and squeeze the socket past..also i thought i took out all those housing to engine bolts but i missed one and struggled there..they're 11 bolts 11..a trans jack would definitely be a plus on removal..or u can use the ratchet straps like i did just be sure to remove electrical connections from brackets..on reinstall transfer case was the hardest to get in..once again a good trans jack woulda helped
 

mrrsm

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Oct 22, 2015
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Roger THAT... Brother!

@MBS1994 ... I used the Sealey Transmission Jack which is adjustable to a reach up to 23.0315” above the Deck and Lowered down to 7.677165”. I ABSOLUTELY HAD USE THE SAFETY BELT in order to keep the Filled 4L60E Transmission from falling over to the concrete deck. I also had to place Telephone Books wrapped in Duct Tape in “steps” to be able to coax the 4L60E down from the Jack onto some Cardboard to be able to clear the necessary space under the 2002 Trailblazer and slide it in order get it out out from under the SUV.

Later on, reversing this technique requires great physical strength to overcome the difficulty of getting the 4L60E “Back in The Saddle” of the Jack and Strapped Down again… something akin to trying to 'Bench Press a Dead Drunk Boatswain’s Mate', but it was the only way to get the job done. In the end, it took the additional help from my son working with me in order to get the Damned Thing back on top of the Scissor Jack and set in a stable position.

In it’s favor...the Jack is Safe and Reliable and can be Highly Incremental in ALL Positions ...AS LONG AS YOU REMEMBER TO KEEP YOUR HANDS AND FINGERS WELL CLEAR OF THE INNER SCISSOR BLADES DURING THE RAISING AND LOWERING THE JACK. It is Definitely NOT a Toy to be played around with:

$147.00 + FREE S&H via eBay:

http://rover.ebay.com/rover/1/711-5...0001&campid=5338077216&icep_item=143494926045

4L60ESCISSORJACK.jpg4L60ESCISSORJACK1.jpg4L60ESCISSORJACK2.jpg4L60ESCISSORJACK3.jpg4L60ESCISSORJACK4.jpg

Having a Milwaukee 1/2" Pneumatic Right Angle Ratchet Wrench along with applying some High Pressure Grease onto the Threaded Drive Rod to Raise and Lower the Jack helped out ENORMOUSLY with using it. Avoid using an IMPACT GUN and Remember... EVERYTHING WILL BE TOP HEAVY ON THIS THING. So if you wind up getting one like this... MOVE IT AROUND ON THE DECK ...SLOWLY!!!
 

Uncleenvoy

Original poster
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Feb 12, 2020
545
Ny
@MRRSM i bought the harborfrieght version of that ti get it out..i dont know if it wasy inexperience or the jack was crap but it was sliding all over the place even with the strap on it ultimately ending up falling offf and i had to slide the trans out on some cardboard..returned that death in a box next day.i was looking at there other style trans jack they have other day when iwent to buy the pressure gauge kit think it cost 169.00..that one looked good..has the cradle that tilt/adusts forward backward left right and a very wide wheelbase..i was really thinking of buying it with the prospect of having to pull the trans again but they didnt have any in stock
 

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JayArr

Member
Sep 24, 2018
544
Mission BC Canada
The alternative to MRRSMs method is to get 12 ton jackstands that will raise the frame rail high enough to pull the transmission out while still on the jack. I used an adapter that fit on one floor jack. I spent less on the transmission jack adapter but had the added cost of the jack stands and was able to do it all myself without having to enlist any added muscle.

If you look closely in the picture you can see the new transmission sitting on a jack that was rolled under while the car sat on the jackstands.

 

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mrrsm

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Way ahead of you Pal... Been there... Done That...Got The "T" Shirt... 11 Years Back:

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