After thinking about it..i think ill just leave the old one in..if i get codes or notice any slipping,the part in the valve body so i can just fix it under the truck or take off the valve body..im selling it so i really cant be stressing about what might happen to it a year from now..ill just be sure to tell the buyer what i did and didnt change
Transmission removal inspection repair install
- Thread starter Uncleenvoy
- Start date
JayArr
Member
The cheap fix is a new piston and springs, SK4L60E, it's for later models as well and it just replaces the current piston/spring. No tools, about $30. You can always put it in later but that's another fluid dump and working on your back under the vehicle.
Went ahead and got the 3 new molded pieces..only 33bux kinda glad i did..one of them is supposed to be a tight fit around the hub of the piece where it goes over..the old one would stay on when put together and held upside down..but if i shook it then it would fall off but the new one wont fall off no matter how hard i shake it..its amazing how easy mechanic work is the second time around..got the lower half taken apart in 3 minitz using the brake spreader,flat steel bars and snap ring technique..cleaned up the drum and rest of parts but rain stopped any further progress..should be done by next clear day
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Got her back together..but isnt there supposed to be a gap here for the pump to case o ring to slide into?also had to take apart these bearings they were ma3ling noise..turned out it was filled with the dirty strawberry shake water
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I ended up putting the pump un with no ring..idont recall taking one off,none of the pics i have show a groove b4 disassemly and longwinded guys pump didnt have a groove..one note on the pump..you realy have to tighten it down in stages in the crisscross pattern..i tightend them down and by the time i got back to the first bolt its was totally loose..so were all the others had to make about 7-8 passes b4 they were all tight then torqued em..big problem im having here is that there is absolutely zero endplay..tried testing it using vice grip feeler gauge method but it doesnt budge..
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No end play is a problem-somethings too tight. Push the shaft with your hands and try to pull it back out. There should be some movement.
Before I put it back in, I would definitly find out why. Too thick a thrust washer?
Before I put it back in, I would definitly find out why. Too thick a thrust washer?
From what ive looked up so far its a common problem when rebuilding..im gonna have to take it apart again and triple check if i put any bearings in upside down,measure the old steels and pressure plates against the new ones and measure frictions too maybe they swole from that dip in the tub..just gotta find my digital caliper..havent seen it in a while
Aamco neighbor stopped by sais not to worry about the endplay as long as the shafts are turning so gonna trust him and mive forward..got most of it put together but tiday was veey unproductive for the most part..while torqueing down the 1-2 accomulator bolt the long one went fine torque wrench clicked move on to the shorter ones no click and just i was thinking"these are pretty tight why usnt it clicking?" Snap broke the bolt..used one of the valve body bolts same size and markings just so i can proceed..tightend them down real tight still no click on wrench though..spent hours trying to find a replacement bolt and bellhousing bolt that broke during disassembly..no luck..one place had the bellhousing bolts but you have to buy all of them for 30bux..so im missing one valve body bolt 6 o'clock in pic
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Then figured ill put the servo in and go check dealership in the morn for the bolts b4 i order them online..when i put servo in it was too tall to put the snap ring in..o pressed and hammered no go..took it back out and saw a chip broke off on the piston and the gasket/ring was danaged..i took off the gaskets and left the big spring out just to do a dry fit..still too tall..after some head scratching and staring at the parts i realized when i disassembled the servo to check for damage i put it back together backwards..live and learn..gotta go get a new one..the pointy end of this rod/pin should be on the wider side
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Aftee thinking about it and reading the book some..im gonna go ahead and take it apart to see if i put the bearing in properly if i did then im going to replace the selective washer..the one in there now is I.D. number 69..the one trans bench guy had was # 68..i ordered a 67 and 68 about 14bux each..check the chart pic to see the difference..67 will be here tmrw 68 next week..also got the a new servo piston this one is the upraded corvette one for 35bux..dealership wanted 84bux for the oem and 2 week delivery..amazon had an oem for 30 bux 2day delivery..this was hard to find by just googling it but once i got the actual part number(oem 864-2613) it was easy to find..forgot to order the 2 missing bolts gonna do that later
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Took it apart..bearing was installed with the black side facing up..which is how it was done in vid..book illustration not very clear take a look let me know if u understand it. Good thing i took it apart again one of the teflon seals broke gotta replace those.so the problem of the day is i cant get the input drum out ..it came out easy last time after i got the band pin out.. but now it just wont come out..ive been twisting, pulling and shaking for an hour now..im spent.. shes heavy again. I wonder if that's contributing to the no endplay..well see tmrw if the #67 comes b4 sundown tmrw
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Got the 2-4 servo reassembled..correctly this time..used screw,nut,socket ratchet, flat steel and wrench to compress spring and removed/replaced snap ring with screwdriver..so gonna stick this somewhere safe until its needed
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# 67 came this morn.. gonna put er in and see if i get any endplay..figured out the illustration its a vertically cut cross section..so according to that, the bearing was installed correctly..input drum stiill wouldnt come out as of last attempt yest..maybe itll come out today..
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Got the teflon seals on using oiled up cellophane paper..got one from an old photo album..tried using the zip tie only method to resize them but the zip ties kept slipping off so tightly wound electrical tape and zip ties should do the trick..gonna give it 15mins
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Got a .016 in there a .017 gets in there really tight too but not all the way in.. .015 is the lowest in the range but at least i got something..gonna torque down the pump,put back on the valve body and accessories and wait for the missing screws to show up.4got to put in the band..so that first
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Bolts came yesterday also went ahead and ordered a drainplug..i dont get why they didnt put a plug in at the factory..all put back together just gotta put it back up in there
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Glad i went to change the transfer case fluid..it was bone dry..i dont know what size hex/allen bolts are needed here but way bigger than anything i had..was about to go buy a set and saw this pack of star bits i had. A T55 with an 8mm socket to attach to the other end worked perfectly
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I was wondering where you were with this. Been following with interest. Need to know how it turns out.
@NJTB took a week off..forgot im not 20 years old anymore so after lifting the trans down and sliding it under the car my lower back reminded me the next morning..by the time i felt better it rained for 3 days...got her in..all housing to engine bolts torqued to 37lbs..torque converter bolts 44lbs..trans cooler lines,vent hose and dipstick reconnected.would if gotten more done but that lower cooler line was a pain and i couldnt find my plastic clip removal tool..also i thought i messed up the torque converter or something cause i couldnt get the bolt in...turns out there are 2 types of holes in the flexplate..hour and a half minimum to figure that out..gonna finish her up now..hopefully driving in a few hours
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Though not necessary i disconnected the secondary air pump..found it was always in the way and kept bumping my head on it..crossmember is in so just transfer case and drive shafts and reconnect them electrics..took longer than expected no air compressor to drive those crossmember bolts in quick
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Transfer case in..boy let me tell ya that was a task..no trans jack..used straps to get it up then slid under it loosenend straps..let it rest on my chest then bench pressed it in at an angle..took about 3 tries..lets see how i feel in the morn..driveshafts here i come
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Rear drive shaft is in..having a hard time figuring out how the shift cable fits in its bracket b4 i put in the front drive shaft..mostly due to it getting dark and im tired..so tmrw we will be done
Still functioning..nothing sprained,strained, pulled or sore from that transfer case bench press yesterday..starting early to beat the expected rain..looked up some vids regarding the shift cable bracket..everyone ive seen so far skips past the bracket installation part..anyway slid under the daily driver (an 04 envoy) to see what it should look like..i think i got it..should be done soon
No luck fellas..still no reverse and now there's a noise..tried to upload a vid but sais something about extension not allowed..its a tapping noise about 3-4 taps per second at idle in every gear prnd321
JayArr
Member
I'm no expert, I'm just following along and watching vids like you but...
Try taking a pressure reading before you take it out. I'm not 100% sure how to do it but I remember seeing a vid where there was a place to put a pressure gauge to see what the internal pressure is.
If there is no pressure from the pump nothing will work. Knowing that would allow you to concentrate on the pump and leave the rest of the gears/clutch packs alone.
Didn't you end up with an extra seal or o-ring on the pump rebuild?
If there is pressure then you can ignore the pump and look for a reason why the clutch packs aren't engaging.
My bet is on the pump since all gears including reverse are out.
On the bright side... - aren't you glad you put that drain plug in!
A note for the cable, I undid the nut on the end of the shaft and dropped the entire cable adjustment assembly. The shaft has a flat spot so it goes back indexed to where it was. This saves playing around with that adjustment.
I feel your pain, I've had to pull things twice before and pulling it the second time is rough but it's fresh in your mind and will go a lot faster this time.
Try taking a pressure reading before you take it out. I'm not 100% sure how to do it but I remember seeing a vid where there was a place to put a pressure gauge to see what the internal pressure is.
If there is no pressure from the pump nothing will work. Knowing that would allow you to concentrate on the pump and leave the rest of the gears/clutch packs alone.
Didn't you end up with an extra seal or o-ring on the pump rebuild?
If there is pressure then you can ignore the pump and look for a reason why the clutch packs aren't engaging.
My bet is on the pump since all gears including reverse are out.
On the bright side... - aren't you glad you put that drain plug in!
A note for the cable, I undid the nut on the end of the shaft and dropped the entire cable adjustment assembly. The shaft has a flat spot so it goes back indexed to where it was. This saves playing around with that adjustment.
I feel your pain, I've had to pull things twice before and pulling it the second time is rough but it's fresh in your mind and will go a lot faster this time.