Transmission removal inspection repair install

[JayArr]

If you are going to put up a shed or tent I reccomend you buy a roll of thick poly, the kind used for vapour barrier on houses and then a bunch of 2x4s. lay the poly down and build a frame out of the wood around the perimeter and staple the poly to it and then fasten the tent to the wood. It keeps the tent frame solid in the wind and gives you a poly floor that that you can sweep but it also keeps the moisture from the ground out and the tent and everything in it stays dry even when it rains.

 

[Uncleenvoy]

Thanks for the tip @JayArr ill look into that..
I havent done amytjing else so far been super busy..the book came yesterday though

 

[Uncleenvoy]

Took a hiatus there..been busy..so a neighbor walked by and saw what i was doing..turns out he has a brother that worked for aamoco for like 15 years or so that luckily for me just happened to be visiting..he came over took a look gave me some tips and suggested a local place that had all the parts..so picked them up yesterday..except for the torque converter they wont have that till later today..wasnt planning on replacing converter but neigbor guy said its a must.. especially since i told him the background story..so here we go hopefully i can get this put back in and be driving by sunday

 

[Uncleenvoy]

Didnt get the clutches for this part though neighbor guy said to see if i can get a prepacked one but guy at the trans sjop said its expensive 250 and up if he can find one so gonna hold out until i see how people took it apart in the videos..frim what i understand so far u need a special step press..also dies anyoneknow if the top should be scarred like that

 

[NJTB]

That's where the band applies. Clean it up, should be good.

 

[Uncleenvoy]

@NJTB thanx..i watched the rest of the transmission bench video last nighg and i noticed the one he was working on looked the same..didnt get much done yesterday watching the video he said to check the check ball capsule for leak and of course mine was leaking so spent most of day trying to find a replacement..put in the new one and no more leak..

 

[Uncleenvoy]

Went to replace the the rear case bushing
.the kit i bought didn't come with it so had to find i lt elsewhere..the one i got was correct height and diameter but those u shaped holes were way bigger 1 1/2 maybe 2x as big and they werent in the same position..the guy at the store said dont worry about it but yeah imma goa ahead and worry about it..ordered one from dealership itll be here tues..4got to take pic b4 i returned it..returned one 4.00, dealership one 10.00

 

[Uncleenvoy]

So since i have to put that in b4 i can put the lo reverse clutch piston, clutches and steels back, i skipped to input housing dissasembly..got everything out easy..when i got to the part that supposedy required the spring press i looked for what i had laying around and ended up using a brake pad spreader ,some flat steel bar i had and the first retaining clip from the input drum..basically what the transmission bench guy did but i just didnt have the tool that he used..but hey physics right?steel bar cost maybe 10bux dont remeber..had it for over a year lying around fron something else i was doing

 

[Uncleenvoy]

Input drum was filthy looks like the reason there was much clutch mterial in tge pan is because it was all stuck up in here

 

[Uncleenvoy]

Cleaned it up as best as i can for now..some of the clutches where burnt off so bad that they fused/siezed to the plates..had to use hammer and screw driver to get them off..had use considerable force too the didnt just pop out when i put the screwdriver in..had to use the vise to seperate some and still have one plate and clutch stuck together that just doesn't want to separate..busting my but trying to seperate those two then got to wondering if the new kit comes with steels in it..so went to go buy the kit but they were closed...get it tmrw..also if anyone is doing this i highly recommend buying that gallon of brake cleaner 31bux at pep boys maybe cheaper online and one if these pump pressure sprayers 5 bux at lowes also maybe cheaper online..ur gonna use a lot of cleaner and as we know they're like 5 to 7 dollars a can unless u catch a sale and probably 50% full of conpressed air I've used 1/2 gallon already probably 15-20 cans worth..plus definitely good to have around for future projects

 

[Uncleenvoy]

So gonna try and get the reverse input drum,fluid pump and valve body disassembled and rebuilt today so by the time i get the rest of parts by tursdsy it'll just be a matter if reassembling the main parts back in and on the case..keep ya posted

 

[Uncleenvoy]

Got the revesre drum taken apart used the mcgyvered press tool again to get the snap ring out..pretty easy..hard part was getting that piston to reseat all the way..i used the feeler gauge to guide in the rubber gaskets but ended up cutting the smaller one by mistake so put in the old one it was in good condition not dry, brittle or deformed..the reverse clutch friction discs looked good too but the kit came with new ones so gonna replace them..tirns out the kit came with friction discs for the input shaft so im glad i couldnt get them yesterday so gonna put that back together using the old steels if i can get that last one seperated from the siezed friction disc

 

[Uncleenvoy]

Reverse drum is done..had to modify the spring press tool ..it kept slipping off of the spring cage under pressure..left some tabs on the new ones to fit in the holes on spring cage.did the warp test on the drum ..very little warping i think with the new band it should be ok

 

[Uncleenvoy]

And rubbed down the outside of the drum with some 400 grit sandpaper thise burn marks are gone

 

[Uncleenvoy]

Trying to do the input drum but this one clutch is too fused to steel and uve already scarred up and smashed chunjs out it the atrel trying to get it off ginna see if i can buy 1 steel and not the whole set

 

[Uncleenvoy]

Old forward clutches and steel..clutch friction material completely burnt off and steels gouged..got a set of new steels 4 bux each

 

[Uncleenvoy]

3-4 clutches and appply plate and backing plate sane deal..completely burned off frictions and gauging on both plates and 4 out of the 5 steels
...stealership wanted 43bux each for backing and apply plate and 160 i think he said or 106 (i tuned out after i heard the100 part) for the 3-4 steels but it came with frictions..got the apply and backing for 20bux each and 4bux each for plates so 60bux at transmission place..frictions were in the kit i got

 

[Uncleenvoy]

Input drum done..picked up trans rear case bushing this morn gonna put that together now

 

[Uncleenvoy]

Forgot to put these damn things in the input drum..first thing to do in the morn..glad i caught that now

 

[JayArr]

At least they go in last.

 

[mrrsm]

With the strongest possible emphasis in this suggestion... This is a Very Worthwhile and quite unique "POV" 4L60E Tear-Down and Rebuild Video for you to watch because it is just Chock FULL of the Pro's Tips AND Cautionary Recommendations that are well worth checking out ...even now... at this later stage of your work:

,,,and this 4l60E has No Reverse and No Re-Build after 200,000 Miles of Wear and Tear and is another one Worth the Time to View:

 

[Uncleenvoy]

@JayArr yeah thats the good part..4got to test its functionality with the air compressor also...gonna do that too.. @MRRSM thanx 4 the vid ill check it out

 

[Uncleenvoy]

One other note..transmission bench guy said to use a 1 7/16 socket to press trans bushing in but when i went to store it was too big they had a 1 5/16 that was the right size but it was a 3/4 drive..i do not have a 3/4 drive socket extension and no stores had them or a 1 5/16-3/8 or 1/2 drive socket..im sure the make them but after 2 hours going to every parts and hardware store couldnt find anything..sure enough when i get back i see my 35mm axle nut socket sitting on the ground which fit perfectly..that and a 10 inch extension got it done in 5mins

 

[Uncleenvoy]

Upon further investigation..these load springs are supposed to be a little taller than thier brackets..understandably over time they get smashed down and lose thier springyness..see how some if these are lower than the others..just gonna go ahead and get 5 new ones looks like they're about 2-3bux a piece..however since ive already made 5 trips to the transmission store already and its about a 15 minit drive one way..im just gonna goa ahead and start making a list of needed parts and proceed to the end to see what else might popup and make one trip..so onwards..got the low reverse piston,springcage and snap ring in so far

 

[Uncleenvoy]

This part the output ring gear and hub is supposed to spin freely once place in the case..mines did spin..rurns out the hub paer us what rides on the bushing that goes in first..the bushing was crooked by 2-2.25 mm..one side was higher than the other so u figure just tap the hugh side down amd all good..nope..when u tap one side the whole thing slides down..still crooked but deeper..had to remove reinstall bushing like 10 times and and test spin the ring gear hub after each reinstall b4 i got it spinning freely..so low reverse clutches,rear ring gear,rear planet,low reverse sprag anti rattle spring and low reverse clutch support in..that half if case is done

 

[Mooseman]

@Uncleenvoy , although I find this work very interesting, I would ask that you watch your spelling as it makes it sometimes difficult to read and even understand, like "rurns out the hub paer us". I have no idea what you're talking about here.

 

[Uncleenvoy]

@Mooseman my apologies..greasy fingers..ill be sure to proofread b4 i hit send.meant to say "mines didnt spin...turns out the hub part is what rides....."

 

[Uncleenvoy]

Starting on pump now..i think i might have marred it up a bit here when i took off that seal..hope its not an issue

 

[Uncleenvoy]

Vid sais this spring is supposed to have another spring either over it or in it..supposed to be a spring inside another spring..i dont know if this one here is the interior or exterior because only one came out..does anyone know if they deleted a spring in the 2006?

 

[Uncleenvoy]

Same thing here..sais there's supposed to be another spring inside this one..was this deleted as well?

 

[Mooseman]

Vid sais this spring is supposed to have another spring either over it or in it..supposed to be a spring inside another spring..i dont know if this one here is the interior or exterior because only one came out..does anyone know if they deleted a spring in the 2006?

For that pressure regulator, it could have been changed during a shift kit swap. I know I did. I think there's a spring inside the regulator valve that's not serviceable.

 

[Uncleenvoy]

Done with the pump..kinda..gotta get some ratchet clips to make an alignment tool..got the pump seal in with a roll of electric tape..definitely a different model pump or somebody was in here and changed parts..vid said to put the converter clutch valve in with the narrow end first but it didnt fit..stuck way too far out of pump even when i pressed down the spring as far as it could so just put it back in the way i pulled it out..and the other vid with the longwinded chap, his pump had wires and a speed sensor on it..on to the valve body tmrw if i get time

 

[Uncleenvoy]

So almost done fellas..got the bottom of the trans case reassembled.replaced solenoids and epc..made an alignment tool for the pump with these hose clamps and torqued to spec..just gotta get these 3 parts tmrw ..the load springs and it was recommended to change the forward acumalator and 1-2 acumalator pistons from these plastic ones to aluminum so depending on cost ill do that..trans bench guy did say to prevent a common dtc code (4got the number 1870 or 1070 something70)to ream the bore for and replace the converter clutch valve..the reamer is 100plus and the new valve cost around 50..so not gonna do that..also suggested to replace some other valve the one that has a sleeve i think 1-2 accumulator valve..but the one i have here was fine

 

[Uncleenvoy]

The Good...got the parts this morn..put the piston in the valve body..put the springs in the drum..the steels have to be aligned a certiain way for them to go in and mines weren't i thought i got the wrong steels ..but after looking at them and comparing them with the old ones i figured it out..4got to take pics but ill take some when i put it back together(stay tuned for the ugly and thats why im gonna have to put it back together).tested it with air compressor clutches moved..no leak from those pistons..which i was concerned about cause i used the old one

 

[Uncleenvoy]

The Bad...clearance is really tight..i can get 2 feeler gauges in therer that add up to .060 of an inch but like i said its really really tight..the range is supposed to be no less than .060 and no more than .080..feels like im closer to .058 or so..idk..gotta call neighbor's transmission brother see what he says and also double check the book to see what they say the tolerances are..those numbers quoted above were from transmission bench guy so we'll see

 

[Uncleenvoy]

The Ugly..i stepped away for no more than 30 seconds to take a phone call and while u was talking i heard a noise in the back..when i got back there i was looking to see what it was.. didnt notice anything right away its a windy day today in ny so thought some tools blew over.i was working on finishing up the case so i can put the band and pump on so i could reinstall the new piston that attaches to the case..it wasnt until a few minutes when i looked up and saw that this table and everything on it (including the input drum) tipped over and was lying in bottom of that big tub of what looks like trans fluid but is mostly rain water with a thin layer of trans fluid on top..heated right now..i so wanted to put this thing back together today

 

[Uncleenvoy]

Already disassembled the drum down to the spring cage and cleaned and dried steels and frictions off.i think i heard trans bench guy say make sure not to get frictions wet cause clutch material and water dont get along..anybody know if thats the case?do i gotta go buy a new set of frictions?they were sitting in that tub for at least 6 mins..im done for the day.. gonna take out spring cage and pistons tmrw who knows what kind of detritus got in there ..this is one of those things that really make recently quitting cigarettes hard..let me know if the frictions can be saved..maybe if i soak them in trans fluid overnight?idk..

 

[JayArr]

trans bench guy did say to prevent a common dtc code (4got the number 1870 or 1070 something70)to ream the bore for and replace the converter clutch valve..the reamer is 100plus and the new valve cost around 50..so not gonna do that..

This is actually really important, without it there is leakage or "blowby" of fluid past the piston in the worn cylinder, this causes the overall pressure to drop which means the clutches and band don't have full pressure and they start to slip and burn. It would be a shame to rebuild everything you've done so far and not fix the problem that caused it all in the first place.

There are two fixes for that worn valve, one is the reamer and inserts from Sonnax to restore them to OEM operation of PWM lockups of the torque converter. When the PWM works you don't feel the tourque converter locking. I think the other fix is by Transgo, it's a lot cheaper, no tools required you just change some springs and install their new piston and it holds pressure but you lose the PWM function and the lockup feels like a shift when it happens.

If your cash is wearing thin or you just don't want to spend the $$ on a one time use tool then at least get the cheaper kit so the leak gets plugged and you're not burning all your new clutches.

 

[Uncleenvoy]

@JayArr i wasn't getting any codes and from what ive seen its a preventive measure..the valve looks and feel fine but ill take it out and take some pics..cash is definitely low but i might have to get the tool anyway im going to be doing this job again..i have an 03 chevy express work van that the trans just went on..we got a new van and my partner took the old one to scrapyard they only offered us 400..so i told him ill keep it and fix it..i believe its also a 460le..ill start a new post on that when i start..is there anyway to measure cylinder diameter for wear?..also whats your thoughts on the frictions..are they shot?if the budget wasnt getting so tight i'd just go get them..but since have to take it apart anyway i was thinking about getting new molded pistons.

 

[Uncleenvoy]

Also isnt the cheap fix only for earlier models?