Transmission removal inspection repair install

Uncleenvoy

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Feb 12, 2020
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Took her to shop they confirmed its the transmission thats bad sais its stuck in one gear..so gonna try and remove it and repair myself..never did this b4 so any help tips or advice is moer than welcome..so far all ive done is unbolt both drive axle ujoints..yes i know that right rear ramp is toast..i drove off them when i as trying to get it up on tgen..i had them in the front first..picking up a new one later today..just bought that 100.00 trans jack from harbor freight hopefully its not a piece of junk..so here we go
 

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Uncleenvoy

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Here is a link to thread with the original story
 

Mooseman

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Dec 4, 2011
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It's been mentioned to use 3 feet of extensions with a swivel socket to get the top bellhousing bolts with the tranny tilted down. Don't forget the flex plate to torque converter bolts which are accessible by the vertical block off at the front.
 

gmcman

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Dec 12, 2011
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Man, that's a bummer but at least you are going to tackle this job, very interested in this project as I'm sure I will be facing it myself at some point.

When you say it's stuck in ine gear, what was it doing when it acted up, which gear?
 

Uncleenvoy

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@gmcman the guy at the shop explained it using the term "stuck in one gear" ..what i was experiencing was
no Reverse..put in reverse,rev engine and no movement
drives in Nuetral but no upshift up to 2nd
drives in Drive upshifts to 2nd but wont upshift to 3rd
 

mrrsm

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Professional Removal of the 4L60E Transmission from an Envoy


...and the Re-Installation of the Same Rebuilt 4L60E Transmission:


Another 4L6t0E Removal Video:

 
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gmcman

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Dec 12, 2011
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When you move from park, does it feel like it falls into each detent for each gear? Reverse, Neutral, Drive, 2,1? Does it do this smoothly?

Before you pull the trans, make sure the shift linkage isn't boogered up and or you don't have a bad shift solenoid.

@Uncleenvoy if it drives in neutral, I think we should approach this differently.
 

gmcman

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Dec 12, 2011
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Have someone inside move the shifter through it's travel and watch the linkage on the side of the trans.

That bushing wears out and I would like you to verify a few things first before you remove the trans.

If the linkage is good, then you would need to remove the pan anyway so maybe we can find an issue inside the pan.
 
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Uncleenvoy

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Progress so far..i took out the pressure plate to inspect first
 

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Mooseman

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Uncleenvoy

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Ok thanks..i put pressure switch and fluid back in to see if it would go into reverse..it didn't so back to original plan..about to tackle converter bolts now
 

Uncleenvoy

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@gmcman no i didnt..but after seeing that pressure switch with thise warped seals i figure i might as well just check the whole thing..plus im already at the point in no return..cooler lines ate disconnected just gitta get a couple of harness brackets and the bell housing bolts
 

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gmcman

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Dec 12, 2011
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This is a web pic but the 2 shift solenoids are in the red circle, easily removed without removing the valve body.

20200824_080359.jpg

I'm not saying that the trans may not need attention inside, but if these solenoids are gunked up and stuck in the engaged position, then your trans will be in 1st gear when moved out of PARK, which is what your said is happening.

They sell a solenoind kit with a pressure plate. Just trying to save you a headache of a rebuild in case it doesn't need it. You can always re-use those parts if in fact it does need to be rebuilt.

I agree though, per our conversation looking at the fluid, hard to dismiss that a clutch pack could be badly worn or welded together. You can really build these back up to go the distance if you plan on keeping it.
 

xavierny25

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Mar 16, 2014
6,323
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@Uncleenvoy I give you mad props for actually going this far. I did a transmission removal and replacement on my brother-in-law's SS and it took the both of us to be able to get it in and out of there. We had a shop with a 2 day turn around time do the rebuild. Of course we didn't have a transmission jack, anyway I hope it makes all the difference in getting it out and back in. My advise is take lots of pictures and there are tons of videos online about taking these 4L60's apart and getting them put back together.
 

mrrsm

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Uncleenvoy

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Thanks @MRRSM i was looking into getting a book but then i stopped to check those manuals that @Mooseman have that u downloaded..gonna order that now..didnt know which one was best i think i daw about 4 different ones, ill go with the ATSG..meant to thank u earlier for those vids..very helpful.all bellhousing bolts are out just gotta take off dipstick and hopefully it comes out smoothly
 
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Uncleenvoy

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Upper passenger side just doesnt want to budge..been going at it for an hour.this feels like one of tjise times when u just need to stop take a break and when u come back it'll cooperate..so gonna grab a burger and chill out for an hour..btw haynes sais if u lower the transmission u can get to the transmission dipstick bracket easier..i spent 40 minutes looking for a bracket that doesn't exist b4 i decided to look up a pic of the dipstick tube..the only bracket is the one on the engine attached to the sec air pump vent valve..fyi
 

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mrrsm

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Before you force anything too hard... Count all of Your Bell Housing Bolts... there should be (11) of them in there:

GMT360BELLHOUSINGBOLTPATTERN.jpgTRAILBLAZERBELLHOUSING1.jpg

Using a Bright Flashlight with Fresh Batteries....Go around the Narrow Perimeters Spaces around the Transmission hollow in the Body and look for anything that might STILL be getting hung up. If nothing shows up... Gently Rock and Pull a little bit at a time from the Back Take Off side of the Transmission ...so you have maximum leverage to move it a little at a time...Side to Side while coaxing the Trans Jack to the Rear... and ... if needs be ... Try RAISING AND LOWERING THAT JACK just a little bit and move things around until they come loose.

ALSO... BE VERY CAREFUL NOT TO DISLODGE THE TORQUE CONVERTER BY GETTING TOO VIGOROUS ...AND HAVE IT TUMBLE OUT ONTO THE DECK IN BETWEEN THE BACK OF THE MOTOR AND THE BELL HOUSING.
 
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Uncleenvoy

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@MRRSM i was just gonna post why nobody in vids or the haynes say the exact number if bell housing bolts..i pulled 10..after the burger break and nap i saw that last 10:00 bolt in there using a flashlight took it out and easy peasy..just had to disconnect that thin vent hose on top..ill start the breakdown tmrw weather permitting..i dont know if i broke off that piece of the bell housing around the bolt or if it was like that..i probably did..ill look for the piece tmrw..i dont think they'll be any ill effect if i just screw the bolt back in without that piece though..anyone let me know if u think that that would be a problem
 

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Uncleenvoy

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@xavierny25 thanks brother..i thought it was gonna be much harder i probably would if gotten it all done yesterday but my compressor konked out on me while i was taking of the oil pand so every bolt afterwards tooki 5 minits to unscrew rather that 10 seconds with the air tools..the hardest part was getting the cooler lines out..last time i did it i disconnected the exhaust and it was easy..and obviously not seeing that last bolt killed a lot of time..the trans jack helped with getting it down but once it was down it wouldnt clear the bottom..i had to put the trans on the floor then jack up the truck another inch and slide it out
 

Mooseman

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Dec 4, 2011
25,257
Ottawa, ON
.i dont think they'll be any ill effect if i just screw the bolt back in without that piece though..anyone let me know if u think that that would be a problem

I did much worse in my younger (and stupid) days. While replacing the engine in my '93 Blazer, I missed one of the bellhousing bolts and broke the whole ear off that also had the aligning dowel. That bellhousing had only 6 bolts. Put it back together with with just 5 solid holding points and the broken piece bolted in just for the alignment. That truck and tranny lived a long time. You have 10 other bolts and that one isn't completely broken. You'll be fine.
 
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mrrsm

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GM makes a Special Torque Converter Restraint Bar that attaches to one of the Bell Housing Flange Holes and it acts to keep the Torque Converter from sliding back and forth and thereby causing damage to the Hydraulic Pump Hollow Shaft Tang and/or the Soft Cut Seals in between. Instead....For now...Use a Bent Mild Steel Coat Hanger stretched aross the face of it and threaded through two opposing Bell Housing Bolt Holes.

Please remember this going forward... This is a Transmission... It is an Object that has Internals that can Behave and Break as easily as a Dropped Swiss Pocket Watch. So... Take your time... Slow is SMOOTH...and SMOOTH is FAST.

If you can find one... use a Larger Size Flat Steel Washer to spread around the Holding Force under the 15mm Bolt Head going back into the Broken Case Tang... you should still be able to use some of its Holding Pressure... BUT ONLY IF IT IS THE LAST FASTENER OF THE (11) BOLTS TO BE TORQUED DOWN.

So Please... Be Gentle with it. You should NEVER have to use Violence to get ANYTHING else done during the rest of this work.

EDIT:

Almost forgot...

In case you encounter anything that wants to "fight" back in the near future even in the slightest, if you post your Questions or Statements about what the problem is before attempting anything that might be hasty, many here will jump at the chance to help you out.

For example... This difficulty you had with extracting the Transmission Cooler lines... A while back, both @Mounce and @Mooseman posted their suggested remedies for this problem over in the Tool Talk Forum that may yet prove a useful and very handy tool to have:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00AZW8PDC/?tag=gmtnation-20

TRANSCOOLERLINETOOL.jpg
 
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Uncleenvoy

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I ordered the book but its gonna be here sometime bet sep 2nd and sep 9th..i downloaded and saved 3 free pdf manuals that showed up..the red one was copyrighted in 2003 blue one 1992 white one 1999..i dont know how copyrights work(can u put out a book in 2006 using a copyright from 2003)..anyway i know that there has been many uprades over the years for the 4l60e so just gonna follow the red one for now..between that,the vids and the help of my gmtnation bretheren im sure ill get it done..slow is smooth...smooth is fast
 

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Uncleenvoy

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I watched a few of this guys videos pretty good..clear informative and easy to follow..i was just about to use the torx 50 that i got in my toollbox but i remembered him saying some thing about a special t50..sure enough..you got to use a torx PLUS 50..I was about to strip the hell out of those bell housing bolts..lots of vids online about people stripping them also..gonna run go pick one up now

 

Uncleenvoy

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Feb 12, 2020
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Ny
Somebody look up the difference between a torx 50 and a torx plus 50..just curious..ill do it later if no one knows and post it
 

mrrsm

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The Torx Fasteners holding the Unique GMT-360 Aluminum Bell Housing to the 4L60E case Front are DEEPER and in the advent of using a Regular T-50 Torx Bit to try and remove them will soon become a serious problem when the entry "star" holes in those Fasteners get RUINED.

The Torx -PLUS (aka TP-50) bit simply is LONGER in the business end with rounded off star tines to minimize sharp angles and is VERY Sturdy AND can reach all the way down inside and as long as they are NOT TILTED when you "Put The Coals" to the Breaker Bar...and use a gradually increasing amount of counterclockwise force...the Torx-Plus Bit will not SHATTER... You can order 'a few' JUST TO BE ON THE SAFE SIDE... from Amazon:


TORXPLUS50.jpg

This Information is VERY Important:

Although this particular "How To Re-Build The GM-GMC 4L60E Transmission involves a Silverado Truck... Once the Transmission is "On The Bench" it will make little difference to the necessary "Step By Steps" required for Dis-Assembly, Inspection and Re-Building them.

THIS Video Series is IMHO... The BEST way to spend some time well in advance of your work books arriving on the 4L60E Transmission Tear-Down and Re-Build going forward. You will really appreciate what this Young Man was able to do... I Promise...

 
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Mooseman

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Dec 4, 2011
25,257
Ottawa, ON
I watched the videos just for my info. If you do watch them, speed the playback to 1.5x. Makes them more tolerable.
 
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mrrsm

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FWIW...

If you want to skip the part about the "Broken Bell Housing Tang" and simply replace it... there is one available on eBay for $32.00 + $15.00 S&H that can "Fill In The Blanks..." so to speak. Ordinarily... Like @Mooseman mentioned... I wouldn't pull a hair with being too concerned about having (1) of (11) Bolts Missing In Action.

But as you've already discovered... The GM Atlas 4.2L Engine AND Crankcase are integrally bolted together and made additionally STURDY by virtue of ALSO being Bolted up via 360 Degrees of Holding Force around the Bell Housing,

This arrangement adds additional Strength and Stiffness to a Unique Motor that has been created from "Lost Foam" Aluminum Ceramic and Sand Casts poured out as Two Half Shells while sporting one of the LONGEST Crankshafts of any In-Line Six Cylinder Engine in the Automotive World.

In short... it needs ALL the Help it can Get to keep that Rectangular "Boxy" Motor as Rigid and Reliable as possible. This Item is among a few others like it available on eBay that are well worth looking over:


s-l1600BH1.jpgs-l1600BH2.jpgs-l1600BH3.jpgs-l1600BH4.jpg
 
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Uncleenvoy

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Thanks for the info guys..cant find that stupid tp50 anywhere been to 5 stores and called 2 more..the best bet was going with napa about 30 minits driving..they say if i order it today it will be here 8:30 tmrw morn. Was gonna go with that amazon one for next day delivery but what time next day?
 

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Uncleenvoy

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@MRRSM Watched 4 of those videos..you weren't kidding...if it wasnt for your warning i would of bailed in the middle of the first one sheesh..after watching im tempted to go ahead and get the bottom done today while waiting on the tp50..in the mean time im looking for a cheap engine hoist or something cause that thing is ridiculous heavy and im by myself
 

mrrsm

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"Slow is SMOOTH... and SMOOTH is FAST..." :ok:
 
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Uncleenvoy

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Taking the time to reorganize tools and clean up underneath..it was i whom broke the tang..oh well
 

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