Transmission removal inspection repair install

mrrsm

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Normally... Transmission Shops and AT Repair Specialists use a Wide Table Top with a Sturdy Base sporting an Aluminum covering to avoid absorbing all of the Spilled ATF... and they employ the use of Transmission Holding Fixtures like THESE:


TRANSMISSIONVICE1.jpgTRANSMISSIONVICE2.jpgTRANSMISSIONVICE3.jpgTRANSMISSIONVICE5.jpg

As an alternative, if you have any spare 2" X 4" sections laying around, perhaps you could be creative and design & build a Screwed-Together Base Support to be steady enough to do the Job after bolting the Case Flange up to it.

Mind you... if you do build such an apparatus, it can't be too tall and it must also be wide enough NOT to move around or tip over during this work.
 

Uncleenvoy

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I have a pretty sturdy work area setup..i just need something or someone to get it up off the ground.
 

mrrsm

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If you have an Engine Hoist in the Garage... by using some well placed, well wrapped and tied Harbor Freight Woven Nylon Straps or say... a few light lengths of Steel Chain to attach in a balanced manner with the right strong fasteners (Extra Nuts Bolts & Washers) this would allow you to maneuver it up off the deck and around the garage.
 

gmcman

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Dec 12, 2011
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Meant to post this last night, but this is an excellent, comprehensive video on the 4L60E.

20200825_170506.jpg
 
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mrrsm

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If you were to "Scale Down " this Guy's "Crazy Gantry Design" and use a $25.00 "Come-A-Long" ...you could Build, Use and then Disassemble THIS clever apparatus once the work is done:


And THIS Design might just be exactly what you need. It is simpler, requires much less Wood and Hardware and will definitely give you the Mechanical Advantage you'll need to take the fully assembled Transmission from the Deck and swivel it around and over the top of your Bench Area:

 
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Uncleenvoy

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Oh god no..my tools are strictly limited for auto repair..i would have to go buy a saw,drill bits ,wood uggh..i saw a hoist on offer up for 150 not too far from where i gotta go pick up the t59..asked for the brand and model # as there wasnt much of a description.. gonna offer 100 see where i land
 
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Uncleenvoy

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So pissed right now..
 

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Uncleenvoy

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Anyone got any welding xperience..im not trying to spend 4 hours and 12 drill bits teying to get this thing out..thinking of going to harbor and get that 120.00 welder and weld a nut on there..ive never welded b4
 

mrrsm

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Whoa... Slow Down just a Wee "Bit"....

Am I correct in assuming that there is a Chunk of a Broken Off TP-50 Bit...Stuck Down inside the Screw Hole...?

JAMMEDUP4L60EFASTENER.jpg

If so... Just know that the Steel that Tool is Made of is HARDER THAN CHINESE CHECKERS... and will require a few Carbide Tipped Drill Bits to drill into if this is the case... Tell us what happened EXACTLY leading up to this point... and don't spare any of the Gory Details.
 
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Uncleenvoy

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Pretty simple..got the tp50 3/8 drive on 6 inch extension with breaker bar..the first bolt i tried was the ine immediately below the stripped one..some resistance as expected but started to move slowly..i made sure i was looking at it and saw it moving..i had to straddle the trans to prevent itfrom moving and ti keep it at a straight angle..repeated the steps on the second bolt but ratchet was turning but bolt was not so i stopped...did all the others no fuss..went back to that second bolt made sure tp50 was fully seated and as soon as i applied pressure it move way too easy and i saw all the metal chewed up in there...straddled it where as i would be facing camera
 

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mrrsm

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Watch from around 6:25 into THIS Video for finer aspects of the Drill Out Method the VOP (Video Original Poster) uses to extract a completely stripped out Bell Housing Fastener from his 4L60E Transmission:

Mind what he mentions about "Using SLOW SPEED..." on the Drill Out Efforts...


As an alternative approach, in this Video... The Mechanic is using a MAPP Gas Torch (NOT an OXY-ACETYLENE COMBO RIG) and shows how to very judiciously apply HEAT to the Aluminum Outer case bulge points containing the in-dwelling, over-tightened Bell Housing Bolt Shanks and immediately and VERY SLOWLY starts to unwind those BH Bolts.

CAUTION:

The Melting Point of Aluminum is just over 1,220 Degrees Fahrenheit ... So NOT allowing the MAPP gas Flame to Concentrate Heat on any one location for too long will avoid Destroying the 4L60E Case.


 
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gmcman

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Dec 12, 2011
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Uggh, that sucks, @Uncleenvoy maybe look for a diesel tuning shop in your area. I'm sure there are numerous other shops that could weld a nut to that torx head, but those tuner shops deal with exhaust manifolds and turbo swaps and very likely have to deal with broken exhaust bolts.
 

Uncleenvoy

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Drill 1/8 bit starter hole 5/16 but to finish..chisel to wack the outer perimeter then stuck a screwdriver in there and pryed the head off..after waistng all morning setting up this welding stuff..weld wouldnt hold the nut on..live and learn..took maybe 10 minits with the drill
 

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Uncleenvoy

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Snap ring was in there real tight..i used the sledge and a cloth to give it a few taps.got the ring off but tis thing wont move..used channel locks and vice grips but no movement..gonna mive on tho the front and come back to it later
 

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mrrsm

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Take a Break and watch this "Instructional Video" from about 1:20 onward... You'll get the Idea...


Sledge Hammers and Transmissions.... Make for Bad Bed Fellows... Just Sayin'...
 
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Uncleenvoy

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4got pics
 

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mrrsm

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Assorted Sizes in Zip-Lok Baggies and a Black Magic Marker on hand to ID and then safely separate and store these Fasteners and Parts... Just in case it RAINS?

Sorry....Didn't see them anywhere on the table... My Bad...
 

gmcman

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Dec 12, 2011
4,668
Pull both of the shift solenoids and see if there is any gunk inside of them.

The 2/4 apply piston cover has an O ring that keeps the cover from coming off which is likely why it was stubborn.

You'll have to search around for pricing but this is about what I paid for mine.

 
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Uncleenvoy

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Done for today its dark and ive run out of bug spray so all the mosquitoess that were waiting in line think the buffet is open..should be all done with the breakdown tmrw since i wont be running around for hours looking for any tools...only thing is that special tool to compress some part with a spring so i can get out the snap ring..i dont have no scraps of metal lying around to make one gonna see if anybody rents it.oh and that last metal ball wont budge.. i picked up the other 6 no problem and even when i took out that plate and tried to push it out fron the other side it still wont come out..that might be whats causing the problem in the first place..ill check the books to see what gear that ball is responsible for
 

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coolasice

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Oct 27, 2013
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Done for today its dark and ive run out of bug spray so all the mosquitoess that were waiting in line think the buffet is open..should be all done with the breakdown tmrw since i wont be running around for hours looking for any tools...only thing is that special tool to compress some part with a spring so i can get out the snap ring..i dont have no scraps of metal lying around to make one gonna see if anybody rents it.oh and that last metal ball wont budge.. i picked up the other 6 no problem and even when i took out that plate and tried to push it out fron the other side it still wont come out..that might be whats causing the problem in the first place..ill check the books to see what gear that ball is responsible for
looks like the 2nd apply ball, i guess it's know to take a beating. separator plate is probably toast.

don't have a rebuilders manual, but this seemed pretty intense in explaining how the 4l60e works....
 
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gmcman

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Many issues with these transmissions is the check balls hammer the plate and eventually can push through or in your case get stuck. Ford uses Torlon check balls and generally don't have too many problems.

I'd say that's a very likely culprit. IMO, 150K is a good point to replace these seperator plates.
 

gmcman

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Dec 12, 2011
4,668
A few of the special tools you could improvise, but I recommend picking up the seal installer/resizer for the 4 shaft seals.

Possible upgrades if you elect could be a 5-planet output instead of the 4, wider carbon 2-4 band, GM hardened sunshell, Z-pack clutches, Sonnax HD overrun clutch, as well as the vette servo and the super hold 4th apply piston.
 

Uncleenvoy

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@gmcman thanx
.i think this truck has 126k iirc..im gonna go look at some rebuild kits now see whats available as far as upgrades..if its cost effective i.ll do it..im selling this thing so trying to keep the expenses down.after doing the transmission lines and buying all that fluid to flush it plus what ive spent so far i gotta go do the numbers to see where im at..actually i think on the breakdown do far ive really only spent the 10 dollars for the tp50..the welder and trans jack are gonna be returned so maybe i can afford an upgrade
 
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Uncleenvoy

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This thing wont come out either..looks like its not seated evenly
 

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mrrsm

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A STRONG Neodymium Magnet ...Like THIS One will "coax" out that Plug:


MECHANICSMAGNET1.jpgMECHANICSMAGNET.jpg

You'll need some Assembly Lube later on...


4L60EGOOP.jpg

Easier to use than to make...


4L60ECOMPRESSOR.jpg

The correct tool for Springs Clips, etc...


TRANSMISSIONPLIERS.jpgTRANSMISSIONPLIERS1.jpg
 

Uncleenvoy

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I dont think this is supposed to look like that
 

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Mooseman

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Dec 4, 2011
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Found this picture online. Although yours isn't pretty, the opening seems to be correct.

4L60EValveBodyUpperBallLg.jpg
 

Uncleenvoy

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Gonna take those things back to harbor and start taking apart the insides when i get back..also alot if nips and chips in the main body part channels
 

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Uncleenvoy

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@Mooseman yes the opening look like it supposed to be there but look at the edges of mine it looks broken and jagged..ill take a better pic when i get back..maybe when im done disassembly ill take it to a shop give them a few bux to inspect and get thier opinion
 
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Uncleenvoy

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Now im stuck..cant take out the guts without removing this thing and the cover wont budge..just broke a piece of the lip trying to pry it out...dont do that
 

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Uncleenvoy

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Cut down the middle of that center piece used ratchet extension and hammer to lossen it... now its spinning freely with minimum force with channel locks
 

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Uncleenvoy

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@gmcman i couldnt see the seal the cover was pressed in..u have to pull it out to see the seal then remove the seal to get the cover off..now that i see the blue seal gonna go for it
 

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