Uncleenvoy
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Transmission removal inspection repair install
- Thread starter Uncleenvoy
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gmcman
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Maybe this will help. In case you haven't seen this.
Edit: Sent before I refreshed screen.
Uncleenvoy
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Didnt get much done after that last post..storm just rolled in...got everything put away just in time.but following that video it sais there a snap ring in the main part to take out the planetary gears..but i dont see it..ill take a pic in the morn..not gonna get to do anything tmrw gonna be busy..hopefully i finish all m0y business tmrw and i can start on this again saturday..if not definitely continue sunday
All those defects could just be casting flash. May or may not be normal or someone that day that was originally building this tranny was having a bad day.
Uncleenvoy
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Saw that snap ring i couldnt see the other day probably just tired or something..it was a bit finniky but finally came out..tricky part was trying to engage the ring without getting caught on the teeth of the gears..large retaining ring came out pretty easy with pick tool and screwdriver
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gmcman
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Since you did decide to take it all apart, it looks like you are almost halfway through your rebuild. This is one of the best 4L60E rebuild videos I've seen, especially for a stock rebuild.
I would highly recommend checking it out. He is very thorough and takes his time, I think it's about 17-18 videos, this is the 1st.
I would highly recommend checking it out. He is very thorough and takes his time, I think it's about 17-18 videos, this is the 1st.
Uncleenvoy
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NJTB
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I've been following this post since it started with interest.
The scratches in the case and valve body can be cleaned up with emory cloth, just be sure to clean it throughly when done, and blow out the passages in both. If you can, take the parts to a shop and have them put it in the cleaning tank.
The part of the case that looks broken is just casting flash, not to worry.
Way back in the day, when I rebuilt transmissions, the key was to have everything completely clean. A small piece of debris will cause problems that are difficult to find.
The scratches in the case and valve body can be cleaned up with emory cloth, just be sure to clean it throughly when done, and blow out the passages in both. If you can, take the parts to a shop and have them put it in the cleaning tank.
The part of the case that looks broken is just casting flash, not to worry.
Way back in the day, when I rebuilt transmissions, the key was to have everything completely clean. A small piece of debris will cause problems that are difficult to find.
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The problem with that part isn't the discoloration (which is fine; they all will have that). It's with the lip at the top shearing off. That part is known as the 'sun shell' -- what the planetary gears, which include the 'sun gear', go into.
Anyway, when they shear (you hear a loud 'bang'), you'll lose forward and reverse gears (b/c they're just freewheeling at that point).
Since this is one of the known weak areas of the 4L60e, I'd recommend an aftermarket replacement. Sonnax makes one; another (more famous) one is called a 'Beast' (I have it in mine, but I had mine rebuilt by a trans specialist). They (did) run about $80. Money well spent for the peace of mind.
Oh, and I second those Transmission Bench videos. Takes awhile to get through all of them, but they're thorough. I'd recommend a viewing up to the point you're at, then watching the next 1-2 before you go further. That way, you have an idea of what to expect.
I just came across this thread, and didn't look all the way through it yet. But I can tell this is your first transmission rebuild. You're a brave soul, and to be commended for attempting this. (not meant to scare you away; you're 'committed', now)
gmcman
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That looks about normal for the mileage. As mentioned earlier, I would also recommend a stronger sunshell for a rebuild. Choices include the GM hardened sunshell, Sonnax smart shell, or the "Beast".
Uncleenvoy
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@Reprise @gmcman did see where some broke in those videos thats the first thing i looked for..keep in mind though this isnt my daily driver i just picked it up to fix and sell..however im not a jerk and do have a conscience so i certainly dont want to give anyone a lemon..unlike the ass**** that i bought it from mr "oh it was working fine i drove it everyday and then i saw fluid leaking out so i parked it"..i suspect he broke those cooler lines on purpose so it couldnt be test driven.lucky for him this isnt my daily driver, i like working on cars and love all the knowledge im getting from doing this..anyway i dont want to sell a lemon but also not trying to give anyone some high perfimace beefed up truck tgat takes me into the negative..dont those sun shells break under abuse or constant heavy towing?
Uncleenvoy
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Full transparecy i bought it for 1250... i think im in for about 400 so far..trans cooler lines were 90 i think.. 6 gallons of fluid @25 each.. taxes and title for 100.00..35.00 to get those stuck exhaust flange bolts out..10.00 for new bolts..and a few other things i had to get..i have all the receipts in an envelope just gotta add them up..and i also have to do the cosmetics..missing pass sideview mirror cover and some scratches and worn paint in certain areas..also im getting Ebrake and ABS light on but no codes..i checked both sensors on wheel bearings with multimeter for voltage and continuity.they were fine.. i was told there is another one in the back somewhere..ill start another thread when i get to those things
Uncleenvoy
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Im gonna start taking apart the part with the 3/4 clutches.. Cant find a decent compressor for sale anywhere close on craigs,letgo or offer up..ill get back to that part later
Uncleenvoy
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coolasice
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That's the reverse drum he was asking about, no lip to break off...not the sunshell... sunshell has holes all along the sides....The problem with that part isn't the discoloration (which is fine; they all will have that). It's with the lip at the top shearing off. That part is known as the 'sun shell' -- what the planetary gears, which include the 'sun gear', go into.
Anyway, when they shear (you hear a loud 'bang'), you'll lose forward and reverse gears (b/c they're just freewheeling at that point).
Since this is one of the known weak areas of the 4L60e, I'd recommend an aftermarket replacement. Sonnax makes one; another (more famous) one is called a 'Beast' (I have it in mine, but I had mine rebuilt by a trans specialist). They (did) run about $80. Money well spent for the peace of mind.
Oh, and I second those Transmission Bench videos. Takes awhile to get through all of them, but they're thorough. I'd recommend a viewing up to the point you're at, then watching the next 1-2 before you go further. That way, you have an idea of what to expect.
I just came across this thread, and didn't look all the way through it yet. But I can tell this is your first transmission rebuild. You're a brave soul, and to be commended for attempting this. (not meant to scare you away; you're 'committed', now)
Are you prepared to replace all of the Primary Bushings throughout the Transmission by pressing the Old Ones OUT and the New Ones back into all of the right places?
This one... next to your Threaded "MacGyver Gear" has gotten Nicked up a Bit...and generally speaking, with such Close Tolerances between them and the Shaft ...its wise to Prevent them from being Scraped, Scored, Nicked or Damaged in any way:
Also...as you need to continue to work “Out Of Doors” without adequate protection for all of the 4L60E ‘innards’ consider getting one of these Harbor Freight 10’ X 10’ Canopy Tents for only $65.00.
Back in 2015… I purchased and used this EXACT Unit...and it was AWESOME because I was able to set it up over my 2002 Trailblazer Engine area and practically ignore regular rain downpours and not have to scramble around and cover up every little thing I had strewn about everywhere.
Just some ‘Food for Thought'... THIS Tent is the Next Best Thing to having a Car Port to Work Under...’
https://www.harborfreight.com/autom...ft-x-10-ft-slant-leg-pop-up-canopy-62899.html
This one... next to your Threaded "MacGyver Gear" has gotten Nicked up a Bit...and generally speaking, with such Close Tolerances between them and the Shaft ...its wise to Prevent them from being Scraped, Scored, Nicked or Damaged in any way:
Also...as you need to continue to work “Out Of Doors” without adequate protection for all of the 4L60E ‘innards’ consider getting one of these Harbor Freight 10’ X 10’ Canopy Tents for only $65.00.
Back in 2015… I purchased and used this EXACT Unit...and it was AWESOME because I was able to set it up over my 2002 Trailblazer Engine area and practically ignore regular rain downpours and not have to scramble around and cover up every little thing I had strewn about everywhere.
Just some ‘Food for Thought'... THIS Tent is the Next Best Thing to having a Car Port to Work Under...’
https://www.harborfreight.com/autom...ft-x-10-ft-slant-leg-pop-up-canopy-62899.html
Last edited:
JayArr
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Have you purchased a rebuild kit yet?
I'm interested in which one you get and what's in it. If I'm going to do this I want to do all of it so I want the most complete kit I can get.
The videos I have watched were by "Brad's Transmissions".
He's a professional transmission rebuilder and the video shows him rebuilding every aspect including the brass bushings and sleeving the tourque converter piston.
I'm interested in which one you get and what's in it. If I'm going to do this I want to do all of it so I want the most complete kit I can get.
The videos I have watched were by "Brad's Transmissions".
He's a professional transmission rebuilder and the video shows him rebuilding every aspect including the brass bushings and sleeving the tourque converter piston.
Uncleenvoy
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Uncleenvoy
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@coolasice your correct that is the reverse drum..so is the reverse drum supposed to look like that anyone... @Reprise @NJTB ?
Uncleenvoy
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@MRRSM i didnt see the other half if thAt post with the tent..you read my mind brother..i was just thinking today im gonna have to move this inside for the rebuild..the boss wont be too happy with that but its her own fault the garage is packed ceiling to floor with crap she keeps buying from flea markets..might get the tent fir peace of mind..do you know offhand if they have one with side protection something that zips up or sumthing like that..ill check myself when i can
gmcman
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I actually replied earlier on the reverse drum. That looks about normal for the mileage. You will need to take a straight edge to it and see if any light comes through in the middle of the band marks. Generally a new or reman reverse drum mates well with a new band.
I would also look into a GM hardened sunshell, Sonnax Smart shell, or the "Beast" This is a seperate hardpart from the reverse drum, but regardless of it's condition, I would replace it.
I would also look into a GM hardened sunshell, Sonnax Smart shell, or the "Beast" This is a seperate hardpart from the reverse drum, but regardless of it's condition, I would replace it.
NJTB
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@Uncleenvoy ... Yes...but they all cost a lot more and are a HUGE PITA to initially Set Up ...without HELP:
For the 10' X 10' Flavor... $160.00
www.harborfreight.com
For the 10' X 17' Flavor... $200.00
www.harborfreight.com
For the 10' X 10' Flavor... $160.00
10 ft. x 10 ft. Portable Shed
Amazing deals on this 10Ftx10Ft Portable Shed at Harbor Freight. Quality tools & low prices.
www.harborfreight.com
For the 10' X 17' Flavor... $200.00
10 ft. x 17 ft. Portable Car Canopy
Amazing deals on this 10Ft X 17Ft Portable Car Canopy at Harbor Freight. Quality tools & low prices.
www.harborfreight.com
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That's what happens when I rush through an answer (sorta like the obnoxious kid in grade school who'd shoot his hand up in the air, waving it frantically so teacher would notice... )
Correct - reverse drum. (the sunshell is in the middle of the video still picture in post #98, right in front of the fluid pan). Apologies for the error.
OP: I see @gmcman mentioned the sunshell as well. They don't have to be 'abused', to break. A search here will reveal many people who've had them break, pretty much due to mileage. They undergo stress fatigue, and because the original ones weren't hardened, the gear strips out, or the flange breaks off. Here's a picture, for comparison (not a great one, as you don't readily see the difference here.) The common thing between the revised GM, Sonnax, and 'Beast' shells is that the part the person is pointing to here, has been heat treated.
Anyway... even if you're just rebuilding to sell the truck... get one of the revised versions. You can show the receipt for it to the buyer, to give them some piece of mind.
This is actually *the* weakest part of the 4L60e transmission.
Next weakest is the 3rd clutch. You can put a HD clutch pack in (Raybestos Hi-Energy, Alto 'Red', etc.,) but if you're fixing it to flip it, I'd use something more toward stock (because they'll *all* fail, given the right conditions). Sadly, it's a design shortcoming that can't be 'bulletproofed', no matter what vehicle the 4L60 is in. So just go with an OEM equivalent, whatever you can get a good deal on. If you're keeping the vehicle, then I'd use the better parts.
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A bit off-topic, but I would love to get a core and build out a 4L80e, if for nothing than bragging rights (since it's about the only thing on the truck that hasn't been freshened at this point). They're nearly bulletproof as-is, but a couple of areas can be improved.
My 'dream' trans is a 6L90, but they won't work with a 24x PCM, and that's the reluctor my LQ4 has. Maybe if I do a teardown / rebuild of the bottom end, one of these days.