Tool Talk

mrrsm

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Oct 22, 2015
8,340
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UPDATE: Friday, August 30th, 2024 @ 06-ish AM EST:

Since I'm held hostage to needing the added Leverage of the Longer 18" 3/8" Drive Ratchet and Sockets... it makes PERFECT sense to keep that Tool AND the other supporting Sockets ...AND... The Ryobi Replacement Bagging Blades inside of an "All-In-One" Carry Kit... So THIS Milwaukee Tool Tote Bag seems like the Right Choice...and at a Reduced Price of 24% Off for the $30.00 Cost:

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When you "Pass The Rubicon" of being 3/4 of a Century in Age...You do NOT want to have to crawl around under an elevated Riding Electric Lawn Mower for any longer than necessary. I'm quite surprised and very pleased with the recent ease of performance of my MOJACK RELM Lift while Changing a FUBARed Blade recently... but I also wanted to enhance my ability to get the job done even QUICKER....Following the Suggestions of Archimedes...concerning having some MORE LEVERAGE.

So I ordered this NEIKO 18" Long 72 Tooth Reversing Ratchet (sporting an ALMOST Breaker Bar Handle Length) along with Three Variations of the Parkerized Impact Grade 15mm Sockets ... and they all just arrived. I would recommend this Tool Set in concert with the depicted SPECIAL BLADE HOLDER for anyone not inclined to having to play TWISTER while underneath their Lawn Mowers for this PITA Task any longer than required:

NOTE: Check Out that Strong Neodymium Magnetic Plug inside of the Shortest Socket!

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Blckshdw

Moderator
Nov 20, 2011
10,780
Tampa Bay Area, FL
I've had one of these air jacks for 6 years now, and never had an issue with it until earlier today when it sprang a leak while lifting the front end of my EXT. I noticed the bag was tilted to one side, as it tends to do as the weight of the truck shifts, at full extension. I placed my hand near the bottom of the bag and could feel the air rushing out, so I assumed I ripped the seal or the bag itself. Lowered it back down, repositioned so the bag would be straight at its highest, and lifted again, that made it worse. :yikes:

I just went out to take things apart and have a look, and the problem showed itself almost immediately, after getting the 4 bolts out of the base. The air hose entering the bag had ripped at the fitting. And as soon as I lifted the metal shell from the bag, it tore off with zero resistance.

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Got the compression fitting off, and what I assumed should be rubber, felt more like hard plastic. Had to use a utility knife to get the remnants off.

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There was enough slack to make me think I could use the same hose, just insert the fitting into the freshly cut end that's already there. The line wouldn't stretch out to get over the fitting, and cracked instead, so I cut a quarter inch off, where it felt softer and tried again. Needed a little more slack due to the weight of the frame and the bag fighting me, and when I tugged just a little bit more, the whole damn thing came free. Line broke near the handle where it passes through the frame. :mad:

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At least replacing the air line is about as simple and inexpensive as it gets, so that's a relief. Found a roll of .25" ID pneumatic tubing pretty quickly, but I don't need 32' of it!!! Everything else seems to be .25" OD, didn't think this would be that rare. 🤷‍♂️
 

Blckshdw

Moderator
Nov 20, 2011
10,780
Tampa Bay Area, FL
Go to any big-truck repair shop, and ask to buy a length of 1/4" Synflex hose. Thinking Eaton makes it. We used a lot of it in various diameters when plumbing the compressed-air system on City Buses.

Great idea, ended up ordering the hose online last night, since it would be delivered today.
 
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Mooseman

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Dec 4, 2011
26,220
Ottawa, ON
Never considered one of these before. I can get one for $120CAD. That's cheaper than floor jacks.

 
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Blckshdw

Moderator
Nov 20, 2011
10,780
Tampa Bay Area, FL
Never considered one of these before. I can get one for $120CAD. That's cheaper than floor jacks.


My initial issue that got me looking at them, was my old Craftsman jack developing a leak where I needed to keep the handle locked at all times to try and prevent it. Even after replacing the seals, it still leaked.

Saw these offered by a bunch of sellers (on Ebay at the time) and after watching a video, figured it would be great to no longer need to pump a handle and start sweating before I even started on whatever the job was. Making height adjustments is quick and easy, especially from a kneeling position (I try to avoid repeatedly getting up and back down, my back and knees thank me for that)

While it does have some weight to it, they aren't as heavy as hydraulic jacks, so portability is a plus. Can't quite wheel them around as easy as floor jacks, and when they are laid flat, you're really sliding the thing around. So I use the small wooden furniture dollies for easy rolling. Only exception is when I need to lift the rear of the truck by the pumpkin, not enough clearance when it's on the dolly.
 
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mrrsm

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Oct 22, 2015
8,340
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I can't help but associate this Complete Snap-On OEM Diagnostic Compression Tool Kit that was offered over on eBay for an excellent price with the number of times that @Mooseman has reminded so many of us that whenever chasing down the Causes and Origins of Engine Mis-Fires:

"Don't Forget...to perform an In-Cylinder Compression Balance Test...TOO...":

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Blckshdw

Moderator
Nov 20, 2011
10,780
Tampa Bay Area, FL
So the new line has a thicker wall than the stuff I'm replacing, so that did not play nice with the fittings. I ended up taking a 3/8" bit and enlarging the fitting holes, but that still wasn't enough. Took a step bit and got it just large enough for the hose to pass through, with some effort.

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Needed a little assistance fishing the hose up through the handle and through the opening to the valves, so grabbed the end of my wire snake, inserted it into the end of the hose to use as a guide. Worked like a charm.

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With the hose routed, attached to the bag end, and bolted that together. Cut off the slack on the valve side, slipped the fitting on, and wrapped things up. Gave it a quick test under load, no hissing = job done! :2thumbsup:

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mrrsm

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Oct 22, 2015
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If you want the benefits of having a REALLY BIG AND CRYSTAL CLEAR DMM with a "Brick Shape" Tilt Screen and TRUE 4,000 RMS with a Five Minute Back-Light Timer, Snap-On's Line of these DMMs start with "The Basic" (No Really...THAT is what they Call IT) and they'll Tear a $1,000.00 Bill RTF In Half...!

The other two in the Trio go over $1,000.00 to $1,500.00 for those Mechanics in need of DMMs capable of working on Hybrid and Electric Vehicle Problems. Luckily... I just picked THIS one up from eBay for *Two Benjamins*... and I thought,

"Jesus Palomino, Snap-On... THAT WAS JUST WAY TOO DAMNED MUCH MONEY...!"

But still... Dammit...!!! I Wanted One!


These Boys (and my Beef Cake Images) will give the Run Down on all of these DMMs and the Truth is...THEY REALLY ARE VERY EASY ON THESE OLD EYES:


Start Viewing at around 4:00 along in this one...



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EDIT: Saturday, January 25th, 2025

I did some further research and opted to include getting the Snap-On OEM Magnetic Nylon Support Hangar Strap and the Fluke Flavor of the Insulated Screw-On Style Red N Black Alligator Clips to work in concert with the Snap-On OEM Red & Black Pin Probes... and as soon as the Screen Saver Covers arrive and get applied... THAT will Complete This Digital DMM Kit!

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  • Basic Multimeter TRMS-Daylight EEDM504F by Snap-on, USA - MEMORYON.pdf
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mrrsm

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Oct 22, 2015
8,340
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A Brief Follow Up to the last Post... with some interesting "Tool Knowledge" offered by Snap-On concerning NOT using any "Classic" Incandescent Bulb Style Lighted Probes on Air Bags and in other circumstances... (View the Instruction Captures CLOSE UP for better details).

Note that the eBay Tool Vendor demonstrated his appreciation for selling me the Snap-On Probe by throwing in a Snap-On "Classic" Standard Blade -Magnetic Pocket Screw-Driver...Nice :>):

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PS... Don't LOSE that Black Plastic Point Protector... If you accidentally -=JAM or STAB=- yourself with THIS Very Sharp Thing...You'll Wish Your Mother Never Met Your Father!!!
 
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