littleblazer
Member
- Jul 6, 2014
- 9,267
You have two copies of momentary lapse of reason like I do.... right? It's not gone forever.... right? It certainly wasnt great...
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Did you present your new to you SSC?Unfortunately, it was my only copy!
Went to the DMV to get plates... Guess who isnt open on Mondays?!
So got a answer to this.. When the lifter exploded, and the spring was no longer part of that lifter, it stayed in the compressed position. This allowed the pushrod to drop out of the rocker cup. When this happened, the rod probably ended up resting on the Rocker Trunion, Or the Rocker pivot. When the cam came back around, it pushed up on the collapsed lifter, and.... bent rod. I am thankful it didnt push the rocker out of the head. Drilling out, nut-cert, and possible re-Thread was not on my list of things I wanted to do.Crap. I can't see it too well but what does the cam lobe look like. My question would be why did it bend? Usually happens when there is piston to valve contact, which would be from another catastrophic failure. The only thing I can think of that may have caused this was that it was run like this for a long time and bent the rod over time.
SSC = Social Security Card... Now I can put 2+2 together...Lol. Thought you found someone's social in the car.
True that!The important thing was that the damage was limited and repairable.
I had a co-worker whose husband filled a small bottle with blue windshield washer fluid and told his little boy he had run over a Smurf. The kid freaked out! Mama was NOT happy!Auto Trak II, the same smurf blood as the 4x4.
I also have some pulling to the left while braking with the TB right now. Was worse when I had the worn inner tie rods. Brakes are in good condition and sliders are good. I'm thinking a caliper is getting stiff. My next likely attempt will be to swap the calipers. I have the ones I kept from the Saab when I scrapped it since they were fairly new. Maybe to check whether it's the front or rear brakes, I may pinch off the rear lines and test drive it. Might also pinch one of the front at a time to see the effect.New problem, if I am going thru a long corner at speed and apply brakes, it pulls right. If I am going straight, and apply brakes, it goes straight.
You know how many times the colorado almost got a supercharger?Nitrous! And then put it in a Fast and Furious movie.![]()
I know I couldnt get it thru the pass thru hole. The hole is just slightly larger than the shaft, and the seal is 2 inchs larger than the shaft.I haven't done it either but I'd speculate yes, the diff needs to come out for that to be replaced. You could maybe get to it with a long seal puller through the pan though maybe? I just think it overall would be easier on a bench. It was a long time ago since I replaced a disconnect... but I don't recall anything on that side.
If you're referring to me... my Envoy's heavy towing days are done. So if I were changing gears, I'd be looking at 3.23s, not 4.10s. But I'm not swapping f/r gearsets. Not for this vehicle. If I get rid of it ::gasp!:: it'll be more desirable with the 3.73s.Well, this would be your excuse to do the GT5 swap. Check the FAQs for diff removal methods.
Nah, was talking to @TollKeeper since he mentioned that he has a 4.10 front diff.
To quote one of my favorite TV shows from the last 20yrs... "Your will, my hands"@Reprise - Any help would be beneficial to me. My wife is trying to convince me to do it, my back is trying to convince me to take it to a shop...
So I guess I won't be out of line saying "you owe me a beer", if we ever meet f2f, eh?Just got a quote from one shop.... $3000! a you freaking nuts?!