northcreek
Member
My new to me 2006 9-7x 5.3 rebuild
- Thread starter TollKeeper
- Start date
Mooseman
Moderator
I think it's overpriced for the age, no matter the mileage, and being a V8 SUV. People are shying away from them because of gas prices. But then there is supposedly a used vehicle shortage because of the new vehicle shortage.
He's had it there only two days now. It's an oddball and not very well known unlike TBs and Voys. Too bad CL doesn't show the number of views.
He's had it there only two days now. It's an oddball and not very well known unlike TBs and Voys. Too bad CL doesn't show the number of views.
Thats true.
If he offers the receipt for the new tires, its actually about 5750 (Michelin Defender LTX M/S). Having bought a set for the Envoy recently, is about 1250.
I pulled the carfax this morning, and that truck hardly ever got drove. 17000 miles in the last 12 years. 4000 miles in the last 6 years. Speedometer replaced at the Cadillac dealer in 2011.
Going to go take a look at it tonight Edit: Correction, tomorrow. Its a completely viable option, if the receipt comes with it for the tires.
If he offers the receipt for the new tires, its actually about 5750 (Michelin Defender LTX M/S). Having bought a set for the Envoy recently, is about 1250.
I pulled the carfax this morning, and that truck hardly ever got drove. 17000 miles in the last 12 years. 4000 miles in the last 6 years. Speedometer replaced at the Cadillac dealer in 2011.
Going to go take a look at it tonight Edit: Correction, tomorrow. Its a completely viable option, if the receipt comes with it for the tires.
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Every vehicle I can find on the market with that RPO code shows a unique vehicle. A 2013 Savanah Duramax Passenger Van. A 2022 Chevy Silverado Limited. A 2007 Avalanche ChooChoo Customs. A 2004 Tahoe Regency. A 2003 Silverado Regency. It seems that might be the code to send a vehicle to a outside vendor for "customization"
I was supposed to meet with the seller of the Buick this morning, I put my long weekend on hold to go buy it... He emails this morning its sold.. Some people have no respect to others time..
So back to fixing the Saab... Next week. Going to my Cabin today.. Just need to get some movies transferred onto my laptop to keep the kiddos entertained.
So back to fixing the Saab... Next week. Going to my Cabin today.. Just need to get some movies transferred onto my laptop to keep the kiddos entertained.
- Jul 22, 2015
- 2,724
Disassembly completed...
To get here, I had to...
- Pry out the diff casing from the pan, using 2 different pickle forks (if you don't own one, you can rent a set of 3 from AAP or your local auto parts store). Major PITA; the worst part of the experience. Add: +4hrs
- Remove the crossmembers / braces
This is the passenger side of the steering rack. There's 1 x 21mm bolt / nut that has to be removed, which was tedious (no room for my big @ss electric impact, for one). I wound up removing the nut by hand, on the creeper, two ratchet clicks at a time (limited swing), while holding the bolt in place from behind with the new breaker bar with my other hand (long story, and this post is long enough, as-is).
Note that the driver's side of the rack can be left intact / as-is, as can the connection to the steering linkage, and you don't have to evac the lines (leave them in place, as long as they're not too corroded -- mine were fine). Just the one bolt will need to be removed for the clearance you need.
Add: +1hr for the rack drop, the way I did it.
With the rack dropped down on the one side, you'll (finally!) have room to remove the pan. GM states to secure the diff to the frame rail, but I found it sits there nicely, and I just used one hand to keep it from moving while I maneuvered the pan off and out with the other.
From there, it's wide open, and the diff will come right out (it's heavy, so be ready!)
If you didn't disconnect the rubber vent tube at the top of the engine bay, the weight of the diff should rip it right off when you drop it out. At least it did, for me.
Addn'l items...
While the propeller shaft (front driveshaft) doesn't absolutely have to be removed, I wanted the extra room, so I did pull it out. I'll show that in my own thread. It takes three different manipulations back / forth to remove it, but I got it out.
Also, add about +1hr to remove the oil pan bolts (most are 10mm; you also have the two bottom A/C compressor bolts on the passenger side (15mm), two bellhousing cover bolts (also 15mm), the two long 8mm (M6) in the rear of the pan, and one more 10mm at each side of the rear of the pan that holds a plastic cover in place on each side (the DS one will come right out; the one on the PS encapsulates the circumference of the starter, so just leave it in place, after removing the hold down bolt from the pan).
(BTW... I didn't have those little plastic covers at the rear of the pan on my Sierra, with its 4L80, so
this surprised me a little bit. Not terrible, once you know they're there.)
I did not have to loosen or remove the starter.
There's also the one 10mm on the lower DS front that holds the wiring harness bracket (which comes off, via a plastic tab on the PS after removing the hold down bolt. Standard LS wire routing.
The oil dipstick tube / holder will pull right out of the pan; no need to disconnect it at the block, at least during disassembly.
I did not have to remove or loosen the shock towers, the LCAs, or the swaybar links. Just remove the spindles / axles / splined disconnect / intermediate shaft / diff from pan, and the remainder of stuff from this post.
Next steps (for me)...
With this diff out, I'm going to replace the oil pan gasket (leaking), and leave this thing in RWD-only mode for a bit, while I put everything else back together, along with replacing a couple of suspension joints, etc. Then I'll rebuild the diff, replacing seals & bearings where needed, along with properly sealing the case so it doesn't leak all the fluid out any longer. Finally, I'll put the diff back in. Before winter. Maybe. (I only use 4WD one or two days a year, so while I've got the diff out, I'll just ziptie the actuator to the frame, so I don't have a 'Service 4WD' light on the dash for the next few months).
To get here, I had to...
- Pry out the diff casing from the pan, using 2 different pickle forks (if you don't own one, you can rent a set of 3 from AAP or your local auto parts store). Major PITA; the worst part of the experience. Add: +4hrs
- Remove the crossmembers / braces
The front plate isn't terrible, but one of the 4 x 21mm bolts was stuck, and I couldn't get it off with my impact. Couldn't find my breaker bar, so went and got another (aka: 'upgraded'). Had to 'leg press' the bolt with the breaker, while it was braced to keep the bar / socket in place, as the bolt faces downward. Fun times.
The other (3) 21mm bolts came out without much of a problem. Except that I had my palm bracing the bottom of the impact gun for one of the bolts, and the concrete floor underneath my hand. So when I pulled the trigger... ouch. Thankfully, I didn't break any bones, but I think I did some damage, b/c I still have some pain in the area that got crushed.
The thought occurred to me just before pulling the trigger that it isn't well-regulated (it's kind of 'all or nothing'). Too bad I didn't pause a moment to consider what I was doing. Thankfully, I was able to act quickly and reverse the gun to free my hand (I did have mechanics' gloves on, or I probably *would* have broken something).
Be careful, kids! 
The rear brace will appear to be welded in on the sides, but it's not... it's just attached with addn'l 15mm bolts. However, it won't actually come 'out', unless you lift up the exhaust on one side to get it out (you can see it turned sideways, below, resting on the bracket it connects to). It can be actually removed more easily once the pan is out, if you want it out (rust removal / paint, etc.)
I just wanted more room to clear the pan, and for the next thing that had to be removed...
This is the passenger side of the steering rack. There's 1 x 21mm bolt / nut that has to be removed, which was tedious (no room for my big @ss electric impact, for one). I wound up removing the nut by hand, on the creeper, two ratchet clicks at a time (limited swing), while holding the bolt in place from behind with the new breaker bar with my other hand (long story, and this post is long enough, as-is).
Note that the driver's side of the rack can be left intact / as-is, as can the connection to the steering linkage, and you don't have to evac the lines (leave them in place, as long as they're not too corroded -- mine were fine). Just the one bolt will need to be removed for the clearance you need.
Add: +1hr for the rack drop, the way I did it.
With the rack dropped down on the one side, you'll (finally!) have room to remove the pan. GM states to secure the diff to the frame rail, but I found it sits there nicely, and I just used one hand to keep it from moving while I maneuvered the pan off and out with the other.
From there, it's wide open, and the diff will come right out (it's heavy, so be ready!)
If you didn't disconnect the rubber vent tube at the top of the engine bay, the weight of the diff should rip it right off when you drop it out. At least it did, for me.
Addn'l items...
While the propeller shaft (front driveshaft) doesn't absolutely have to be removed, I wanted the extra room, so I did pull it out. I'll show that in my own thread. It takes three different manipulations back / forth to remove it, but I got it out.
Also, add about +1hr to remove the oil pan bolts (most are 10mm; you also have the two bottom A/C compressor bolts on the passenger side (15mm), two bellhousing cover bolts (also 15mm), the two long 8mm (M6) in the rear of the pan, and one more 10mm at each side of the rear of the pan that holds a plastic cover in place on each side (the DS one will come right out; the one on the PS encapsulates the circumference of the starter, so just leave it in place, after removing the hold down bolt from the pan).
(BTW... I didn't have those little plastic covers at the rear of the pan on my Sierra, with its 4L80, so
this surprised me a little bit. Not terrible, once you know they're there.)
I did not have to loosen or remove the starter.
There's also the one 10mm on the lower DS front that holds the wiring harness bracket (which comes off, via a plastic tab on the PS after removing the hold down bolt. Standard LS wire routing.
The oil dipstick tube / holder will pull right out of the pan; no need to disconnect it at the block, at least during disassembly.
I did not have to remove or loosen the shock towers, the LCAs, or the swaybar links. Just remove the spindles / axles / splined disconnect / intermediate shaft / diff from pan, and the remainder of stuff from this post.
Next steps (for me)...
With this diff out, I'm going to replace the oil pan gasket (leaking), and leave this thing in RWD-only mode for a bit, while I put everything else back together, along with replacing a couple of suspension joints, etc. Then I'll rebuild the diff, replacing seals & bearings where needed, along with properly sealing the case so it doesn't leak all the fluid out any longer. Finally, I'll put the diff back in. Before winter. Maybe. (I only use 4WD one or two days a year, so while I've got the diff out, I'll just ziptie the actuator to the frame, so I don't have a 'Service 4WD' light on the dash for the next few months).
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So you left the front lower control arm mount in place? At least you wont have to worry about alignment that way.
Just for clarification... You left the steering shaft from the steering column attached to the power steering rack? And left the power steering lines attached? And just dropped the passenger side? I bet that saves a couple hours! plus not having to screw with all those cramped spaces!
Just for clarification... You left the steering shaft from the steering column attached to the power steering rack? And left the power steering lines attached? And just dropped the passenger side? I bet that saves a couple hours! plus not having to screw with all those cramped spaces!
So I ordered a Lower control arm mount, and tie rod end.
Hopefully will have that all done on Wednesday. Than I still gotta send it out for an alignment.
I wish there was a way to replace just the bushings without having to take the control arm off. But for the amount of work, it would have only saved me 20 bucks.
Still gotta get the blend vent door motor ordered.
Hopefully will have that all done on Wednesday. Than I still gotta send it out for an alignment.
I wish there was a way to replace just the bushings without having to take the control arm off. But for the amount of work, it would have only saved me 20 bucks.
Still gotta get the blend vent door motor ordered.
- Jul 22, 2015
- 2,724
Yes. My goal was to document a 'how-to' with the least amount of effort needed for the recipient (in the short term, 'you').
Alignment wasn't a concern with me, if it saved time / effort -- but I know it's a bear to pull the entire LCA assembly, so it better help, if I go to pull it.
Plus, there didn't seem to be many who'd done this before, actually removing it themselves.
Knowing how the axles came out (and having done it on the Sierra a couple of years ago) did help me out a bit (knowing that I wouldn't need to do it).
Yes. I'll give credit for this to someone on YT who came before me. Thankfully, it was accurate.
Yep. I *especially* did not want to evac the lines, as it can be murder to get the air out of the rack.
'Yes', again. See above, re: 'someone else did it, and it worked'. You do have to finagle the pan a little bit, but you get the room you need. Without creating that room, the pan won't have clearance.
Vs?
It's kinda like Yoda said... 'Do or do not... there is no 'try'
(IOW, if you want the pan out in one piece, that rack has to move, in some way.)
I *really* could've saved time, if I'd had:
a): a shorter breaker bar, and
b): a short 1/2" extension bar that didn't keep falling off said breaker bar
(the only one I could find in the correct length was an old Craftsman piece, and it kept disconnecting itself from the bar... so I wound up having to hold the assembly in place). Comical to think about it, now.
As of today, I have a better one, for 'next time' (aka: 'reassembly')
With this platform, *everything* is in a cramped space... especially with the V8 in the bay.
I gained a new respect for whatever 'packaging' engineers are called, as I did this
(while simultaneously quoting Charlton Heston's character, at the end of 'Planet of the Apes')
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Mooseman
Moderator
With the pan out, would it be worth it to replace the starter as a preventive? I know it's a bitch to get at in-situ.
- Jul 22, 2015
- 2,724
One of the vids I saw had the guy stating that his starter was sketch, and he was replacing it as a result.
Mine is pretty strong; I've had the Voy since 2015, and never have had an issue with it (knock on wood). And it's only got 150K (?) miles.
I did do a new starter when I rebuilt the Sierra a couple of years back; part of that was lack of history on the truck, and I didn't want to be far from home with a bum starter. Plus it was over 200K miles (and likely on the original starter, because I had to pull the little heat shield GM puts over the solenoid) It's sitting in my console, waiting for me to remember to put it back on, one of these days... LOL. And... I had to pull the starter to immobilize the flexplate / crank, when I pulled the crank bolt.
So... I had ample motive, when you think about it.
That said... if the Voy had more miles, or the starter had ever acted up... yeah, I'd do it now.
I'm gonna roll dice, for now, if for nothing more than the Voy gets driven the least of my three, these days, and it's always close to home, now.
I've actually got it on one of those monitoring devices with my insurance co., getting a sizeable discount. They say I only drive it an estimated 2200mi / yr.
Probably less, TBH.
Mine is pretty strong; I've had the Voy since 2015, and never have had an issue with it (knock on wood). And it's only got 150K (?) miles.
I did do a new starter when I rebuilt the Sierra a couple of years back; part of that was lack of history on the truck, and I didn't want to be far from home with a bum starter. Plus it was over 200K miles (and likely on the original starter, because I had to pull the little heat shield GM puts over the solenoid) It's sitting in my console, waiting for me to remember to put it back on, one of these days... LOL. And... I had to pull the starter to immobilize the flexplate / crank, when I pulled the crank bolt.
So... I had ample motive, when you think about it.
That said... if the Voy had more miles, or the starter had ever acted up... yeah, I'd do it now.
I'm gonna roll dice, for now, if for nothing more than the Voy gets driven the least of my three, these days, and it's always close to home, now.
I've actually got it on one of those monitoring devices with my insurance co., getting a sizeable discount. They say I only drive it an estimated 2200mi / yr.
Probably less, TBH.
Was supposed to be doing the Tie Rod End, and Lower Control Arm Mount tonight.. But for some reason, my FedEx shipment shows its stuck in Memphis..
flyboy2610
Member
I have more issues with FedEx than with any other shipper! My last package spent 5 day in Kansas City! I live in Lincoln, Ne. That's only a 3 hour drive! I thought about calling them and asking if I could drive down and pick it up!
- Jul 22, 2015
- 2,724
Now, I don't know that I'd drive 3hrs to pick something up, but I do use their delivery manager to sometimes have things held at a local FedEx facility, where I then pick it up myself. But I'm only 5-10 miles away from them, too. (It's free, btw, and there's no charge to have the package held)
flyboy2610
Member
I too am signed up for their delivery management service. I just don't why it sat in one place for 5 days!
Mooseman
Moderator
We do have an Official FedEX UPS USPS Vent Thread!! Lots of experiences there. Fedex is a regular on there.
Bought a evilbay HVAC motor, installed it, used the tech2 to recalibrate everything, and thats good. Took 3.5 hours to do the part swap.. and this getting old sh!t sucks! and who came up with the idea of a 5.5mm bolt!
Still waiting on my FedEx/Autozone parts.
For Chevy Trailblazer GMC Envoy 03-09 Saab 9-7x 05-09 HVAC Blend Door Actuator | eBay
Suggestion: Hello, every customers, we need to know that there are several actuators in a car, they have different models and different functions(mentioned in the listing property column). Please confirm the OE Number, the Terminal Pin Style and Function before placing your order. If you are not...
www.ebay.com
Still waiting on my FedEx/Autozone parts.
Control Arm Bracket FINALLY showed up last night.. Took about an hour to install. Sitting at the alignment shop now.
I was surprised at how fast I was able to get it done really. 1 hour, for a control arm bracket, and tie rod end.
The old bracket, on the rear bushing, I was able to slide out the inner sleave while leaving the outer sleeve still in the bracket. The bushing was SMOKED!
Checked the other side while I had it in the air, just to be sure, and it was nice and tight.
I likely could have left the tie rod end, and just lubed it up, it didnt have play in it, but did have a bit of a rattle.
Next project, a bit simpler. The Ambient Temp Sensor is faulty. Was reading 66* when it was 98. This of course messed with the AC. I just cant seem to find where that sensor lives!
I was surprised at how fast I was able to get it done really. 1 hour, for a control arm bracket, and tie rod end.
The old bracket, on the rear bushing, I was able to slide out the inner sleave while leaving the outer sleeve still in the bracket. The bushing was SMOKED!
Checked the other side while I had it in the air, just to be sure, and it was nice and tight.
I likely could have left the tie rod end, and just lubed it up, it didnt have play in it, but did have a bit of a rattle.
Next project, a bit simpler. The Ambient Temp Sensor is faulty. Was reading 66* when it was 98. This of course messed with the AC. I just cant seem to find where that sensor lives!
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Mooseman
Moderator
It should be at the same place as all the others. On the front of the AC condenser in the hole in the plastic air dam driver side.
Matt
Member
- Dec 2, 2011
- 4,043
Try a reset first. Press and hold front defrost, rear defrost and the mode button until the screen "blips". If that doesn't work, then it may need to be changed.
I did a TECH2 reset of the HVAC controls when I did the blend door actuator.. Is that the same thing?
Speaking of.. Just got a call from the alignment shop. I must have been pretty good with my eyeballing of the alignment. Was only 1* off on one measurement, and 1* off on another.
Matt
Member
- Dec 2, 2011
- 4,043
No it doesn't reset the ambient temp sensor. Stupid, but that's the system. If that reset procedure doesn't work, then you know for sure you need to replace it.
Won't let me update my original post for new costs.
215 Alignment
26 Tie Rod
63 Control Arm Bracket
18 Mode Actuator Motor
322 in more costs..
215 Alignment
26 Tie Rod
63 Control Arm Bracket
18 Mode Actuator Motor
322 in more costs..
Drove it for the first time since the alignment today. I gotta take it back, it aint right. Steering wheel pointed slightly left, pulls to the right. GRR!
Took it in for another alignment, wheel balance, and car wash...
Just never ends does it?
Just never ends does it?
aaserv
Member
I had to bring mine back also when I had the front end done. Like I said then a lot of these mechanics have never seen a vehicle that has the tow adjustment like ours. I had to print out the instructions and bring it to them. Said it took him 3 hours to get it done the 2nd time. He didnt charge me any extra and if you already paid $215 for an alignment ( I dont know about where you live but where Im at thats high as G. P.) I wouldnt pay em another dime to get it right.
Mooseman
Moderator
6000 miles into owning this beast. I actually love to drive it.. Except my head rubs on the headliner because of the sunroof bump, which i dont have this issue in the XL/XUV because the roof is taller.
Also put a USASpec BT45-VETTE BlueTooth module in it. Love that thing.
I am seriously considering selling it. Wife says its to much power for her, and the seat is really uncomfortable. I like the truck, a lot, I just wish the drivetrain in this truck was in my XUV. I like my XUV more!
My order for a Rivian got pushed to 2024!
For now, the 9-7x is my to and from work truck (no car seats in it), and the XUV takes over on weekend/traveling detail.
Likely going to get some pics of the 9-7x this week/weekend, and get it posted for sale.
Thinking 5500 is a good asking price.. Opinions?
Kinda wish I had kept my Escalade.
Also put a USASpec BT45-VETTE BlueTooth module in it. Love that thing.
I am seriously considering selling it. Wife says its to much power for her, and the seat is really uncomfortable. I like the truck, a lot, I just wish the drivetrain in this truck was in my XUV. I like my XUV more!
My order for a Rivian got pushed to 2024!
For now, the 9-7x is my to and from work truck (no car seats in it), and the XUV takes over on weekend/traveling detail.
Likely going to get some pics of the 9-7x this week/weekend, and get it posted for sale.
Thinking 5500 is a good asking price.. Opinions?
Kinda wish I had kept my Escalade.
northcreek
Member
Mooseman
Moderator
Shame that it's not working out for you. I liked mine. It was a familiar platform while being different. If the body would have been in better shape (rust), I would have swapped out the motor, even thinking of dropping a 6.0, making it into a pseudo-Aero. Would I get another one? Hell no!
So now that winter is present.. The Saab sits in front of my house, unless the roads are clear. The tires on that thing, they are summer only tires, and suck on rain or snow. Inbetween snow storms it gets driven, but otherwise its the Envoy..
I need to get the Envoy into my garage. Got a high speed vibration that I am convinced are the U-Joints. I cant figure out how to get the front driveshaft off without removing the front diff or transfer case thou.
I know the rear drive shaft has the plastic ringed U-Joint that takes heat to get it to break free. Is this the front or rear U-Joint?
Got a random Stabilitrac Disabled light. But when I go to hook up the Tech-2, I have cycled the key, and the fault has cleared with no history. I am betting its a front wheel bearing, but I dont want to shotgun parts at it without knowing.
I need to get the Envoy into my garage. Got a high speed vibration that I am convinced are the U-Joints. I cant figure out how to get the front driveshaft off without removing the front diff or transfer case thou.
I know the rear drive shaft has the plastic ringed U-Joint that takes heat to get it to break free. Is this the front or rear U-Joint?
Got a random Stabilitrac Disabled light. But when I go to hook up the Tech-2, I have cycled the key, and the fault has cleared with no history. I am betting its a front wheel bearing, but I dont want to shotgun parts at it without knowing.
Mooseman
Moderator
Will a 265/60/R18 fit on these vehicles?
Stock size is 255/55/R18
Envoy Denali is 245/60/R18
I only ask because I can get a good deal on some Michelin Defender LTX.
The summer only tires are great... as long as the road is dry.
Stock size is 255/55/R18
Envoy Denali is 245/60/R18
I only ask because I can get a good deal on some Michelin Defender LTX.
The summer only tires are great... as long as the road is dry.
With the Brand and Sub-Name and Tire Sizing of THESE... You'd Think so... Right?
THESE would have an Extra Level Of COOL if they DO Fit... :>)
Landsail TrailBlazer CLV2 265/60 R18 114H | RadialZone.com
The Landsail TrailBlazer CLV2 is an all-season tire that offers excellent traction and handling in all weather conditions. The tire is designed with a special tread pattern that provides excellent grip on wet and dry roads. The tire is also designed with a special compound that helps to resist...
radialzone.com
THESE would have an Extra Level Of COOL if they DO Fit... :>)