My new to me 2006 9-7x 5.3 rebuild

littleblazer

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Jul 6, 2014
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You have two copies of momentary lapse of reason like I do.... right? It's not gone forever.... right? It certainly wasnt great...:rotfl:
 

TollKeeper

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Unfortunately, it was my only copy!

Went to the DMV to get plates... Guess who isnt open on Mondays?!
 

littleblazer

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Unfortunately, it was my only copy!

Went to the DMV to get plates... Guess who isnt open on Mondays?!
Did you present your new to you SSC?
 

TollKeeper

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TollKeeper

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Crap. I can't see it too well but what does the cam lobe look like. My question would be why did it bend? Usually happens when there is piston to valve contact, which would be from another catastrophic failure. The only thing I can think of that may have caused this was that it was run like this for a long time and bent the rod over time.
So got a answer to this.. When the lifter exploded, and the spring was no longer part of that lifter, it stayed in the compressed position. This allowed the pushrod to drop out of the rocker cup. When this happened, the rod probably ended up resting on the Rocker Trunion, Or the Rocker pivot. When the cam came back around, it pushed up on the collapsed lifter, and.... bent rod. I am thankful it didnt push the rocker out of the head. Drilling out, nut-cert, and possible re-Thread was not on my list of things I wanted to do.
 
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littleblazer

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Mooseman

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Dec 4, 2011
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The important thing was that the damage was limited and repairable.
 

TollKeeper

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littleblazer

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This is true lol.
 

TollKeeper

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Plates and Tags = Done!

For the time being, this rebuild is mostly done. I still have to do that Brake Pressure Sensor Bung/Gasket/whatever, but its currently not leaking, so...

I did notice a new issue, of sorts..

The tires are supposed to be 255/55R18
The tires on it are 235/60R18 and are nearly new.

I have to run some of the tire out, but luckily the difference in tire size is only about 0.2% on the speedometer. They ride pretty well, but you can definitely see that the tires dont fill the wheel well like they should.

 
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TollKeeper

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Had to return the spark plug wires, they where shorting out and causing a miss fire in cylinder 6
 
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TollKeeper

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Is the transfer case on this 9-7x going to be Autotrak or Dex?
 

Mooseman

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Auto Trak II, the same smurf blood as the 4x4.
 

TollKeeper

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New ACD wires- Done! Misfire is gone
Oil change- Done!
Transfer Case- Done! Bright blue fluid out. New blue fluid in
Front diff- Done! Extremely low. I don't know how much came out, but not much. It smelt kinda burnt.

Rear diff not done. I would have to drop the spare tire, and I was worn out.

Those Transfer case bolts were tight! Had to put a cheater bar on the Allen key.

Made a hell of a mess on the drive way. Normally I'm really good with the catch pan, but I guess I misjudged it, and about a quart of motor oil made it onto the driveway.

Then took it out for a run around the block, and pissed one of the neighbors off because I went full throttle to speed limit.

Grabbed the Tech2 and cleared all the modules from me turning on the ignition while I had the PCM/TCM out.

New problem, if I am going thru a long corner at speed and apply brakes, it pulls right. If I am going straight, and apply brakes, it goes straight.
 

Mooseman

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Dec 4, 2011
25,257
Ottawa, ON
New problem, if I am going thru a long corner at speed and apply brakes, it pulls right. If I am going straight, and apply brakes, it goes straight.
I also have some pulling to the left while braking with the TB right now. Was worse when I had the worn inner tie rods. Brakes are in good condition and sliders are good. I'm thinking a caliper is getting stiff. My next likely attempt will be to swap the calipers. I have the ones I kept from the Saab when I scrapped it since they were fairly new. Maybe to check whether it's the front or rear brakes, I may pinch off the rear lines and test drive it. Might also pinch one of the front at a time to see the effect.
 

TollKeeper

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Got into an accidental race. Just sitting at a stop light, lead car, and wanted to send it..

Well apparently the BMW X5M in the next lane had the same idea. Up to a speed I'm not going to mention here, he got me by 3 cars.I think it was 2020 model

Considering those have 600 hp.. either he was toying with me, or it was a fake M. And the regular models make anywhere from 325-525hp. He still should have whooped my but worse than that..

(I still wouldn't own a BMW)
 
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Mooseman

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Maybe he thought you were an Aero :laugh:
 
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TollKeeper

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That gave me a need for power!

I already have a GT5 front diff.... hmmm............
 

Mooseman

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Now THAT would kill your MPG.
 

littleblazer

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Just put an LSA on it. :poke:
 
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Mooseman

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Nitrous! And then put it in a Fast and Furious movie. :laugh:
 
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littleblazer

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TollKeeper

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A GT5 is easier, and cheaper than both those options... But I'm just California dreaming anyways.

Was going to go out of town this weekend, but everyone in the house got sick, me included. Not the Rona, but it's sure kicking our butts.
 

TollKeeper

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New problem, and I know I'm going to be leaning on you guys for.

Went to the garage just now, distinct smell of GL5. Liked under the Saab, pool of fluid under it... Great!

Jacked it up, and fluid is coming out in-between the oil pan, and the disconnect.

So does this mean the diff has to come out, so the inside diff seal can be replaced, or?

Not had a problem on the disconnect side ever, so completely new territory for me.
 

littleblazer

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Jul 6, 2014
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I haven't done it either but I'd speculate yes, the diff needs to come out for that to be replaced. You could maybe get to it with a long seal puller through the pan though maybe? I just think it overall would be easier on a bench. It was a long time ago since I replaced a disconnect... but I don't recall anything on that side.
 

TollKeeper

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I haven't done it either but I'd speculate yes, the diff needs to come out for that to be replaced. You could maybe get to it with a long seal puller through the pan though maybe? I just think it overall would be easier on a bench. It was a long time ago since I replaced a disconnect... but I don't recall anything on that side.
I know I couldnt get it thru the pass thru hole. The hole is just slightly larger than the shaft, and the seal is 2 inchs larger than the shaft.

I found this.. which gives me a glimmer of hope.. But I think this was on a I6, and I am not sure i would have the space in a V8..
 
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Reprise

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As I mentioned a couple of days ago, I pulled my V8 Envoy in the garage to do this very thing.

Was going to pull it out and work on the Accord instead, but seeing as someone else could benefit from me doing this sooner than later, I could be persuaded to work on this, starting tomorrow. Pretty sure I can get to the diff in a day (whether or not I get the disconnect successfully removed; I'd prefer to get it off while the diff is still attached).

If this would be helpful, let me know. I work faster when suitably motivated. 😄

I have the outer seals ready, but if there's more I need to order, it'll be a few days till I get to reassembly (which is the easy part, anyway, and you'll be fine once everything's apart. Plus I may do some other maintenance items on things I take apart during the process.)
 

Mooseman

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Dec 4, 2011
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Well, this would be your excuse to do the GT5 swap :biggrin:. Check the FAQs for diff removal methods.
 
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Reprise

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Well, this would be your excuse to do the GT5 swap :biggrin:. Check the FAQs for diff removal methods.
If you're referring to me... my Envoy's heavy towing days are done. So if I were changing gears, I'd be looking at 3.23s, not 4.10s. But I'm not swapping f/r gearsets. Not for this vehicle. If I get rid of it ::gasp!:: it'll be more desirable with the 3.73s.

Oh... on edit... Yes, the YT owner has the 4.2L. You can see it @ 00:22 on this vid (and on his other Envoy videos, if you don't catch it in this one)
 
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Mooseman

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Nah, was talking to @TollKeeper since he mentioned that he has a 4.10 front diff.
 

Reprise

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Nah, was talking to @TollKeeper since he mentioned that he has a 4.10 front diff.

Kinda figured, afterward, but just checking... :biggrin:


BTW... I did look in the FAQ, and really didn't see much on actually removing the entire diff.
I did find this thread on TBSS... post #19 has the steps per the service manual, so I linked there. But the earlier posts in the thread state the same thing.


In short, for v8 owners, it looks like you're pulling the engine or removing the oil pan, in order to actually get the diff out, per their site gurus. We shall see. And if I can 100% tell that the leakage is coming from the seals, I may just replace them, instead of dropping the diff. But I'll likely wind up pulling the diff.

First, I'll see if the seals can be replaced without removing it entirely (e.g.; manipulating it to be able to R&R the seals), which is what Tollkeeper was asking about.
 
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Mooseman

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TollKeeper

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Top removal does not work on the V8. Exhaust manifolds, head, and a myriad of other items are in the way.
 

TollKeeper

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@Reprise - Any help would be beneficial to me. My wife is trying to convince me to do it, my back is trying to convince me to take it to a shop...
 

TollKeeper

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Just got a quote from one shop.... $3000! a you freaking nuts?!
 

littleblazer

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That's a I don't want to do it but I will for that much quote. That's like a rebuild/R&R price...
 

TollKeeper

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So heres a question that has been bouncing around in my mind..

After you unbolt the diff, and get it separated from the oil pan, why couldn't you flip the diff 180* so that the passenger side seal is facing the drivers side, and do the seal that way?

I have a couple ideas bouncing around in my head, but will have to look at it, if I decide to do the job.

On the plus side, with all the new gear oil leaking out of the disconnect, it should mean that the disconnect isnt bonded to the oil pan... I think?
 
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Mooseman

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Dec 4, 2011
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Ottawa, ON
I suppose that could work. Forgot about the V8. I can say that when I scrapped the Saab, I was able to pull it out fairly easily. Unfortunately I can't remember if it was from the top or bottom but I didn't have to move the engine. I think it was from the top after I removed the stuff from that side of the motor, the battery, holder and fan.
 

Reprise

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@Reprise - Any help would be beneficial to me. My wife is trying to convince me to do it, my back is trying to convince me to take it to a shop...
To quote one of my favorite TV shows from the last 20yrs... "Your will, my hands"
(even my boss at the time liked that one... lol)

Just got a quote from one shop.... $3000! a you freaking nuts?!
So I guess I won't be out of line saying "you owe me a beer", if we ever meet f2f, eh? 🍻:Lager Louts:

Will start work on this in the morning. I want to reposition the truck so that I have access to my now-buried hoist, if I need it (but I know most on here don't have one, so I'll try to avoid using it, if I can). And I promise not to fire up the compressor (although here, I mostly just hate to hear it constantly cycling 'on'). Axle nuts are already broken free, thanks to the HF electric impact.

Will shoot for an update about noon tomorrow (all times US/Central).
 

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