My new to me 2006 9-7x 5.3 rebuild

[Mooseman]

Since you're going to be in the valley, I'd replace the knock sensors & sub harness, as cheap insurance.

On later years, they're not in the lifter valley so no problem there, especially since they are equipped with DOD, no room for them there. Oh, and the cam sensor is on the chain cover so easy peasy if they need replacement later. The oil pressure sensor is actually not too bad to get to on the GMT360 compared to full size trucks. Just weird like that.

 

[Reprise]

On later years, they're not in the lifter valley so no problem there, especially since they are equipped with DOD, no room for them there. Oh, and the cam sensor is on the chain cover so easy peasy if they need replacement later. The oil pressure sensor is actually not too bad to get to on the GMT360 compared to full size trucks. Just weird like that.

You're right, of course. "Gen 3.5" is really closer to 'Gen 4', than '3'.

 

[TollKeeper]

I think @Reprise might be thinking a different year. This one does not have the 2 knock sensors in the intake valley cover, but I am also not sure where it/they are located.

Already got the CamPS, and OPS replaced, did those when I did the VLOM mod to remove the screen, and block the oil passage for the DOD (back when I thought this was going to be an easy fix).

Will let you know about the gaskets. Nothing is ordered at the moment. Going to get it stripped down, and make sure the lifter bore is still in one piece and clean.

Edit: I see @Mooseman already beat me to it. But this one does not have the CamPS in the front timing cover. It's still on the rear

 

[littleblazer]

The only other thing I can think of is to check the cup on the rocker arm that it didn't get hammered up when the pushrod got messed up. I've seen it more on small blocks than LS but could have happened still.

 

[Mooseman]

But this one does not have the CamPS in the front timing cover. It's still on the rear

You're right. I was thinking of the Avy when I replaced the oil pump. Did both without removing the oil pan.

 

[TollKeeper]

The only other thing I can think of is to check the cup on the rocker arm that it didn't get hammered up when the pushrod got messed up. I've seen it more on small blocks than LS but could have happened still.

Yep.. Did this as well. The cup was still in good shape. Compared it to a known good rocker as well, to check for bends and warps. Nothing visually seen, i got rid of all my specialty tools years ago.. Now I gotta go buy at least a Torque Wrench.

Getting ahead of myself a bit... But I know the head needs to be torqued in a certain sequence, and 3 times.. Gotta find that sequence and torque numbers.

Edit: Curious question.. I know the Exhaust Mani to Head bolts like to sheer. Can the head be removed with the Mani still attached?

 

[Mooseman]

Edit: Curious question.. I know the Exhaust Mani to Head bolts like to sheer. Can the head be removed with the Mani still attached?

I suppose it could be done but from my own experience here in the rust capital of Canada, none snapped. They could still snap but since you're taking the heads (or head) off, it would be easier to work on it to get it (or them) out or taking it to a shop to get them to take it out with a welder.

I left the exh manifolds attached to the Y pipe while moving them away from the heads and lifting the heads away, saving having to replace the donuts and studs.

 

[TollKeeper]

From what I can tell, this is a local truck, nearly rust free (I saw one bit on the front upper control arm).

 

[littleblazer]

I replaced the exhaust bolts on the escalade 2 years ago. That was 250k of NJ winters on it. Not a single one snapped coming out except for the rear two that were already gone when I started the project. However you should be able to pull the head with the manifold on.

For the torque wrench, most parts houses do rent them out now. I'd just do that so it's a zero dollar use for now.

And the torque: https://help.summitracing.com/app/answers/detail/a_id/5187/~/how-do-i-install-my-ls-cylinder-heads?

 

[TollKeeper]

Tech question, I see some years use special head bolts in 2 positions, and others dont.. Which do I have?

If what I am reading is correct, I dont have the shorter bolts in 2 positions, just looking for confirmation.

Refresher, 2006 Saab 9-7x 5.3i LH6

 

[littleblazer]

Tech question, I see some years use special head bolts in 2 positions, and others dont.. Which do I have?

If what I am reading is correct, I dont have the shorter bolts in 2 positions, just looking for confirmation.

Refresher, 2006 Saab 9-7x 5.3i LH6

That is a gen 3 thing i believe. You should have the same bolts across the board being a lh6.

 

[TollKeeper]

Going to be starting on this tonight. Not sure how far I will get.. My back limits how much I can do (getting old sucks!).

Going to get the replacement lifters from a local parts store. I can get all the parts I need by the weekend if all goes right.. Except the lifters and trays.. Most were saying next month from brands that I would spend money on. Autozone and OReillys has the Melling in stock. Its going to cost quite a bit more, but what can you do. Also getting the lifter guide from Oreillys. Same price and quicker.

Going to order the following from Amazon..
--Link Removed--

 

[azswiss]

Potential caveat on the lifter trays. I have seen multiple complaints about non-OE trays not performing as well as the OE trays so you may want to dig a little deeper for the details.

 

[TollKeeper]

Not much choice on those.. GM is backordered, Rockauto GM part is backordered, but the Melling is available.

 

[littleblazer]

You check the evil bay with a PN?

Genuine GM Guide 12669184 5.3L 5.3 active fuel management 6.2 dod | eBay

Genuine GM Guide 12669184 5.3L 5.3 active fuel management 6.2 dod. Condition is New. Shipped with USPS Priority Mail.

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Genuine GM Lifter Guide Trays OEM 12669185 General Motors | eBay

Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for Genuine GM Lifter Guide Trays OEM 12669185 General Motors at the best online prices at eBay! Free shipping for many products!

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[TollKeeper]

I did, but plan to have this running or whatever by Sunday.. eBay isn't an option unfortunately

 

[TollKeeper]

Will post pics tomorrow... I am tired. Started at 730, apart by 1006. 2.5 hours, I think I did pretty good.

Had to go buy a couple tools, and a couple more tools that I didnt need. Will be returning those tomorrow.

But.. SUCESSS!!

Lifter was collapsed and exploded. Did not wipe the cam, or the lifter bore.

Parts are on order, should be here Saturday/Sunday?

Now I just gotta buy a torque wrench with angle.. Those things are EXPENSIVE!
Verify the repair
Hopefully done!

 

[Reprise]

HF sells a 'Quinn' 1/2" digital torque wrench that does angle. I think it runs abt $150. I have one, used for my heads, worked well.
I tried a manual gauge ($10), but it didn't work well for me.
There's also a 3/8", but you want the 1/2" for the heads.

Chase the threads (you can make a chaser from an old bolt), and be sure to get all the coolant out of the rear holes (best to pull the drain plugs, IMO).

 

[TollKeeper]

Pull the drain plugs?

 

[Mooseman]

I wouldn't bother with them. I'd just flush the system with water after reassembly.

I tried to use one of those cheap small manual angle gauges but it also didn't work for me if trying to use as designed. After the initial torque, I just put a mark on the bolts at the approximate degree. That worked well for me.

 

[TollKeeper]

Pics of the lifter

 

[TollKeeper]

So first time working on aluminum for most engine components. My Envoy is also all aluminum, but that engine has never been opened (yet, knock on wood).

When cleaning the old head gasket material off the head, and block mounting surface, I used to use a brillo pad.. Can that still be used?

All the exhaust bolts came out just fine. One started to give me fits, but I felt it thru the breaker bar. I just started working it back and forth and I felt the resistance let go, and it came out good. Of course this was the very back bolt. I lost one of the exhaust manifold bolts, it fell down in the engine bay, and I was not able to find it. Luckily I have new ones on order.

Someone has been in this head before. The head gasket was a Mahle, and not a GM.

I snuck a ratchet strap around the exhaust manifold inbetween cylinders 5 and 7, and ran the strap thru the wheel well, and cinched the other end to a lower ear of the wheel. This allowed me to ratchet the exhaust manifold out to get the head bolts.

So if my research is correct

1-10 head bolts, 22 foot lbs first pass, 90* second, 70* third
11-15 head bolts, 22 foot lbs
Rockers, 22 ft lbs EOIC
Exhaust manifold, 11lbs first pass, 18 second
Intake Manifold, 89 inch lbs or 7.5 ft lbs

Anything else?

 

[TollKeeper]

HF sells a 'Quinn' 1/2" digital torque wrench that does angle. I think it runs abt $150. I have one, used for my heads, worked well.
I tried a manual gauge ($10), but it didn't work well for me.
There's also a 3/8", but you want the 1/2" for the heads.

Chase the threads (you can make a chaser from an old bolt), and be sure to get all the coolant out of the rear holes (best to pull the drain plugs, IMO).

One of my Mechanics is letting me borrow his SnapOn 3/8 and 1/2.. So I am good on that..

 

[azswiss]

Go Team!

 

[TollKeeper]

Local yard got in a 9-7x today.. Might have to check it out on sunday!

Used Cars

upullandpay.com

 

[flyboy2610]

Local yard got in a 9-7x today.. Might have to check it out on sunday!

Used Cars

upullandpay.com

The front end looks to be in pretty decent shape! I do like that grille design!

 

[Mooseman]

Although those headlights look decent, they are not HID since it's a Linear (4.2L), it has halogens.

Someone has been in this head before. The head gasket was a Mahle, and not a GM.

Maybe, maybe not. IIRC, Mahle was the original supplier to ACDelco/GM. Or it likely had its DOD fixed before.

When cleaning the old head gasket material off the head, and block mounting surface, I used to use a brillo pad.. Can that still be used?

That's what I did with a Scotchbrite pad. As long as it's not a mechanical cleaning (the spinning thing with sandpaper), you're good. Same on the head. Do check for warpage on the head. Not much you can do for the block.

 

[TollKeeper]

True about the headlights, but it's always nice to have spares. Was mainly interested in the radio, and the driver's door window, and possibly floor mats

 

[TollKeeper]

Did a little more prep work tonight. Cleaned the head to block mating surfaces off.

Sat there and pondered for a good 30 minutes if I should take the other valve cover over to check things over. Decided against it for now. Get what I have together (when the parts arrive) and see how things go.

 

[Mooseman]

I would just in case another lifter went TU. Easy enough to check.

 

[TollKeeper]

While waiting for parts today, I pulled the other valve cover off. All was good and tight.

New head gasket is on, new exhaust manifold gasket on, new lifter is in, new lifter tray is in, new push rod is in.

And......

She runs, and drives, beautifully!

She was a little cranky on first start up, but smoothed out in a couple mins. Than the motor started to get hot, finished topping of the coolant, and all was good. Motor was smokey at first, all the penetrating lube a sprayed.

That exhaust manifold was a bitch to get rehung right!

Did some digging around on the interior to see if I could get the power seat to work.. nope.. But I did find the missing radio knob! It snapped back together, and the radio is good. The XM radio is still active, and the radio sounds great!

Now will my back hold up to going to the salvage yard to pull a driver's door window, seat track? Will find out in the morning...

Total cost of the repair, including buying a few tools, and oil change, plus the parts, $350

 

[TollKeeper]

Message sent to @limequat about the PCM tune. Haven't seen him in in awhile, hopefully he is still around

 

[Mooseman]

Maybe try dropping him a direct email. His website is still active.

jeremy@lime-swap.com​

Unfortunately I don't have any other contact info for him.

 

[TollKeeper]

Where is the TCM located?

 

[Reprise]

.

 

[Mooseman]

It should be back to back with the PCM on the same bracket.

 

[TollKeeper]

Junkyard haul!

Both headlights assemblies (halogen) 30 for the set
Brand new headlight bulbs (free)
Brand new rear rotors, they were still in the box, but they box was destroyed 30
Both rear floor mats, and 1 front free
9-7x navigation radio 30
Both side dash vents free
9-7x window which I did find out it's slightly different than the normal 360. 30
Power seat motors 15

If I had a 4.2, I would have grabbed more parts. New alternator, new water pump, new idler, new GM reman PCM, new rear springs (still in the box in the trunk), leather was in good shape too.

 

[TollKeeper]

Just got done installing the halogen headlights, plug and play, but you do have to modify the female plug on the headlight housing to accept the HID harness (A keyway tab needs to be removed). Takes about a minute on each to do.

And pulled the PCM and TCM so I can send those to @limequat.

I don't think I'm doing to bad on this purchase..
Figure I should be just shy of 3000 once I get emissioned, titled, and plated

 

[TollKeeper]

And PCM/TCM are in the mail!

 

[TollKeeper]

What I have learned up to this point..

The LS engines are extremely easy to work on. I was absolutely dreading this repair. Its been a many a year (since before I owned my Envoy at 15ish years, and Aztek at 18ish years) since I really have torn into a engine.. And I hated it then. I will admit if this had been a earlier engine (LT for example), this repair would have been simpler, as the head would not have to come off, just the intake manifold, valve cover, and rocker. That being said, this work was not all bad. If I had the parts, and a day to work on it, I could have been done in 6 hours, and 9 hours if I had done both sides.

I have a gluten for punishment.. I own a rare Aztek, A rare Envoy XUV, and now a rare 9-7x. But I also hate owning cars/trucks that everyone else in town owns, and as long as I can remember, that has been the case. Maybe its just the way I am programed. Luckily all 3 vehicles have sister vehicles, so all is not lost. The only other Saab 9-7x in town, that I know of, is about a block away.. And its an identical twin to the one I own!

I can definitely see a quality difference in-between the Saab and the GMC. The one inch thick sound and weather deadening material on the doors, and other areas. Why couldnt all the dashes be this easy to take apart? I mean really! Swap a radio in 10 minutes, and that includes 5 minutes of finding the screw you dropped! The double pane, double laminated windows. Although loosing a cup holder for a key slot?

Luckily, this truck is for my wife (assuming she wants it when its all buttoned up, and tested by me). So loosing the cup holder is not a big deal, since she has to have the seat at its furthest forward position to drive. #ShortShit . But she still has to reach back to start the engine!

While waiting on the PCM/TCM from @limequat , I am going to spend a lot of time in my therapy tub. My back needs it! I dont think the mail system will have my stuff back to me by this weekend, so everything gets pushed off for another week.. I hope I dont run out of time getting the plates done.