What did you do to your GMT today?

Status
Not open for further replies.
Just dropped the Envoy off at the garage to get a new set of winter rubber installed and wheel alignment. Suspect I have a bad balljoint that will need replacing first, I can hear a little rattle. I'm too lazy to go jack the truck up and have a look so its the garages problem now :-)
 
Last night, put in the new front indicator LED's that I got from Wiz. They are white but now flash on and off instead of just flashing brighter, so hopefully people will realise I have my indicator on now.
 
NewfieEnvoy said:
Just dropped the Envoy off at the garage to get a new set of winter rubber installed and wheel alignment. Suspect I have a bad balljoint that will need replacing first, I can hear a little rattle. I'm too lazy to go jack the truck up and have a look so its the garages problem now :-)
Click to expand...

Ball joints usually don't rattle. That is probably more likely an end link banging around, either worn or just worked loose again.
 
Changed the rear rotors, rear pads and the emergency brake shoes.

After I was done, I noticed the the parking brake handle only goes halfway up, before it was all the way up

Anybody know about this?
 
rmsg0040 said:
Changed the rear rotors, rear pads and the emergency brake shoes.

After I was done, I noticed the the parking brake handle only goes halfway up, before it was all the way up

Anybody know about this?
Click to expand...

That is where the handle should be....when its all the way up it needs adjustment. The fact you have new shoes thats where the slack was taken up.
 
After putting it off for a long while I adjusted my parking brake.... It was way easier than i thought it would be.
 
rmsg0040 said:
Changed the rear rotors, rear pads and the emergency brake shoes.

After I was done, I noticed the the parking brake handle only goes halfway up, before it was all the way up

Anybody know about this?
Click to expand...

This is exactly what I need to do! not that competent, but would like to be. My E Brake doesn't hold and will not pass inspection.
 
gmcman said:
That is where the handle should be....when its all the way up it needs adjustment. The fact you have new shoes thats where the slack was taken up.
Click to expand...

I had the TB since 63,000 km and the handle always went full up, good to know thats where it should have been.

Thanks:smile:
 
Reminds me I need to yank the rear wheels and rotors and figure out why my parking brake tends to get stuck partially on if I use it. This started recently so I've stopped using the brake until I figure it out.

I suspect it is a cable that is rusted and sticking more than anything else.
 
Sparky said:
Reminds me I need to yank the rear wheels and rotors and figure out why my parking brake tends to get stuck partially on if I use it. This started recently so I've stopped using the brake until I figure it out.

I suspect it is a cable that is rusted and sticking more than anything else.
Click to expand...

My brother just outside Detroit said his mechanic told him that they all rust out. not just the cable but all the mechanisms inside the disk/drum. so much so that the practice there is to just leave the whole thing out. not needed in Michigan for inspection, and just for the most part slows things down.

I guess you would be sad if all the rest of the brakes failed and you tried to use it to stop. but it is called a parking brake, not an emergency brake.

I left mine in when I changed the rears, but admit I have not used it for several years, if then. i did not spend any time adjusting, except to make sure it was not dragging by a quick spin with the new disks and wheel installed.
 
welp... the beaSSt is back at the dealership... dropped her off earlier today to tear down the motor again to see why there is a slight knock/tick in the top end... i "should" have her back in a few weeks...

2012-11-26173217.jpg
 
meerschm said:
My brother just outside Detroit said his mechanic told him that they all rust out. not just the cable but all the mechanisms inside the disk/drum. so much so that the practice there is to just leave the whole thing out. not needed in Michigan for inspection, and just for the most part slows things down.

I guess you would be sad if all the rest of the brakes failed and you tried to use it to stop. but it is called a parking brake, not an emergency brake.

I left mine in when I changed the rears, but admit I have not used it for several years, if then. i did not spend any time adjusting, except to make sure it was not dragging by a quick spin with the new disks and wheel installed.
Click to expand...

That stuff all looked good on the donor axle when I installed it a year ago. I know we have lots of salt-induced rust here but I wouldn't think it would have rusted up that fast.

I just hate parking on any sort of slope without the parking brake. That, and after having always set the parking brake it feels weird not to and then have the truck roll that last inch or two before catching on the pawl in the transmission! I slammed the brakes on thinking I didn't get it in park at first lol.
 
Use my parking brake all the time and lube the cables couple times a year and never any trouble,, unless the parking does not self adjust and you have to do it your self!!
 
Takin it back to the dealer :hissyfit:. I had a oil change at the dealer on Nov 14th, did it there so they could verify the oil usage re my other issue. When I got it home it dripped a few drops of oil for a few days. I dismissed it as a sloppy job and oil was spilled during the change. Yesterday and today I notice oil spots in the driveway about 8-10" in diameter. Now the driveway looks like shit :hissyfit:. Taking it back to them to see whats going on :confused:.
 
Denali n DOO said:
Takin it back to the dealer :hissyfit:. I had a oil change at the dealer on Nov 14th, did it there so they could verify the oil usage re my other issue. When I got it home it dripped a few drops of oil for a few days. I dismissed it as a sloppy job and oil was spilled during the change. Yesterday and today I notice oil spots in the driveway about 8-10" in diameter. Now the driveway looks like shit :hissyfit:. Taking it back to them to see whats going on :confused:.
Click to expand...

Well I'm back from the dealer, another trip to the dealer that leaves me shaking my head wondering what they are talking about :confused:. They tell me there was alot of oil in the under belly pan (?) and they washed it all out. So if the oil was coming from there why did it go from a drip to a puddle after 10 days? Who knows, maybe my driveway got a bigger slope over the last couple days making it leak more:confused:. I bet the drain plug or the filter were loose. Oil level was fine, actually looked like it had more than it should. No wonder the dealership showroom is full of Cadillac bicycles to sell.
 
Denali n DOO said:
Well I'm back from the dealer, another trip to the dealer that leaves me shaking my head wondering what they are talking about :confused:. They tell me there was alot of oil in the under belly pan (?) and they washed it all out. So if the oil was coming from there why did it go from a drip to a puddle after 10 days? Who knows, maybe my driveway got a bigger slope over the last couple days making it leak more:confused:. I bet the drain plug or the filter were loose. Oil level was fine, actually looked like it had more than it should. No wonder the dealership showroom is full of Cadillac bicycles to sell.
Click to expand...

Just had a thought and now I keep thinking about it. If the dealer were to overfill the oil, maybe trying to hide the actual amount burned by the next oil change, if oil were overfilled would it come out somewhere and leak on my driveway?:undecided:
 
I don't believe it would. To drip out like that, the oil would have to be over the rim of the oil pan and have a loose oil pan and/or a leaky pan gasket.
If the oil was that high, IIRC, the crank shaft would act like an egg beater, causing the oil to foam.

You might want to check the oil while you are still at the dealer to document where the oil level is on the dipstick, for future comparison. :twocents:
 
I almost shot it.

It is leaking coolant from somewhere near the rear of the engine, passenger side-ish. A nice steady drip drip drip off the transmission bellhousing. No idea where it is coming from. Every source I can think of that I can see without getting it on ramps or a lift is dry.
 
Sparky said:
I almost shot it.

It is leaking coolant from somewhere near the rear of the engine, passenger side-ish. A nice steady drip drip drip off the transmission bellhousing. No idea where it is coming from. Every source I can think of that I can see without getting it on ramps or a lift is dry.
Click to expand...

Check where the heater hoses enter the firewall. I remember back in the day when it got really cold outside they would start to leak on cars with worm drive clamps.
 
gmcman said:
Check where the heater hoses enter the firewall. I remember back in the day when it got really cold outside they would start to leak on cars with worm drive clamps.
Click to expand...

One of the heater hoses is connected to the drivers side of the engine just behind the temp sending unit and goes back and over the bell housing to the heater core.
 
My absolutely amazing husband got me a PCMforless tune!!! It was supposed to be a Christmas present, but I got it early :biggrin: So happy!!
 
Voymom said:
My absolutely amazing husband got me a PCMforless tune!!! It was supposed to be a Christmas present, but I got it early :biggrin: So happy!!
Click to expand...

When mama's happy, everybody's happy. :rotfl:
 
Got my new emblems in! Look great, just need to get the correct size for the steering wheel and these are going on! They are brighter in person. What do ya'll think?
View attachment 24214
 

Attachments

  • saab logo.jpg
    saab logo.jpg
    64.2 KB · Views: 27
Wooluf1952 said:
When mama's happy, everybody's happy. :rotfl:
Click to expand...

I am especially happy because the stuttering and stalling issue is now 100% completely gone since putting in the tune. No matter what I do I cannot for the life of me get it to drop in RPM's and stutter or act as if it wants to stall.

I'm not going to get my hopes up too much, but I think after 2 weeks of no issues I can officially call it solved.
 
A buddy of mine had the same issue. His PCM was bad in had it replaced. His would stall and run like s***. Glad you got your problem resolved and fixed
 
Bscfrank914 said:
Got my new emblems in! Look great, just need to get the correct size for the steering wheel and these are going on! They are brighter in person. What do ya'll think?
View attachment 10924
Click to expand...

Where did you get the decals from? Wanted to order some for my engine cover and later for my calipers.
 
jrSS said:
A buddy of mine had the same issue. His PCM was bad in had it replaced. His would stall and run like s***. Glad you got your problem resolved and fixed
Click to expand...

Yeah I'm really hoping this is a cure for the issues. The truck wasn't really running bad, but it had a stuttering and stalling issue in park only. I would hit the gas in park, the RPM's would fall to 300-400 and either stall out completely or act like it wanted to stall. Now after putting the tune in, not only does the regular drive feel 10x better but ALL the stuttering, dropping in RPM, stalling issues are gone. I tried and tried to get it to do it, and it wouldn't.

Now I just need to get used to the shift firmness so I don't have to worry about whiplash lol
 
I didn't get a chance to write this in yesterday but here was my "fun":

I had an appt at the dealership so they could do water tests to figure out why I am getting a leak on the front passenger floor. An hour passes and they come to talk to me, apparently there is a sealed moisture barrier in the door panels (?). Well mine was damaged or torn, and that is where my leak has been coming in, or so they say. So they ask for my permission to replace it and whatnot, and of course I give them the ok. I ask how much it will cost, and they say 130, which was fine cuz I was kinda scared we would be hitting 200-300 range. I just never know when It comes to being at the dealership what kinda cost they will hit me with. Another hour passes and they come to tell me it’s done. They pulled the carpet and replaced the jute (apparently that’s the technical name for the foam padding under the carpet). Now for the timebeing I have a nice gluey smell in my car. I go to pay and the cashier looks at my file, and asks if I would like to use my rewards points. My dealership has a Gold Rewards Program. I say sure why not. She crossed out the 130, punches on the calculator a little bit, and rewrites in $52!! I was like DANGGGGG. She said “apparently I am the first one to ever ask if you want to use your points cuz it was built up to 78$”. I was pretty happy about that. We shall see if the leak is indeed contained though. I am always a skeptic.
 
Not my 360 but I help Mike aka supersweettb04 paint his new wheels black. Can't wait to see his final results for his new lift.
 
mikeinDE said:
I didn't get a chance to write this in yesterday but here was my "fun":

I had an appt at the dealership so they could do water tests to figure out why I am getting a leak on the front passenger floor. An hour passes and they come to talk to me, apparently there is a sealed moisture barrier in the door panels (?). Well mine was damaged or torn, and that is where my leak has been coming in, or so they say. So they ask for my permission to replace it and whatnot, and of course I give them the ok. I ask how much it will cost, and they say 130, which was fine cuz I was kinda scared we would be hitting 200-300 range. I just never know when It comes to being at the dealership what kinda cost they will hit me with. Another hour passes and they come to tell me it’s done. They pulled the carpet and replaced the jute (apparently that’s the technical name for the foam padding under the carpet). Now for the timebeing I have a nice gluey smell in my car. I go to pay and the cashier looks at my file, and asks if I would like to use my rewards points. My dealership has a Gold Rewards Program. I say sure why not. She crossed out the 130, punches on the calculator a little bit, and rewrites in $52!! I was like DANGGGGG. She said “apparently I am the first one to ever ask if you want to use your points cuz it was built up to 78$”. I was pretty happy about that. We shall see if the leak is indeed contained though. I am always a skeptic.
Click to expand...


Less than 1/2 the original quote. Sweet:wootwoot:
 
ryan said:
Just finished 2 front wheel bearings ,not bad for 156,000 miles,
Click to expand...

dang... thats pretty good... mine only last 23k miles :rotfl:
 
Coolant leak is slower than I thought. I've driven about 130 miles now and the level has only dropped a little bit. Once it cools I'll check the cold level and see where it is, then top off as necessary. I might be able to get it up on a lift at a client's place when I do some work for them. That would be nice as I could get a good look at everything. We'll see.

I'm now hearing/feeling another noise though. Or maybe I'm just hyper sensitive right now because of everything that has gone wrong recently and I'm just hearing things.
 
Finally changed out the sound system. I was down to just the rear passenger speaker working and the HU wouldn't eject the disc (5 months with the same cd. At least it was mp3 and had 11 albums on it.) Installed jvc HU with BT and 4 cerwin vega speakers that needed a little dremel work to fit. Nothing fancy, but at least its' stereo again. Now I just need to learn the new HU.
 
Now my truck has gone full retard on me. Started it up this morning, jotted down the mileage for work reasons (and I normally don't work on Sunday so today was already weird) and then the truck just totally shut down :confused: Turned the key off, turned it back on, and my gas gauge suddenly reads empty, the SES light doesn't turn on at all, and the check gages light is glaring at me. Turn it to start and the whole cluster and everything goes dead, release and now the brake light is on along with the check gages and low fuel. OK... turn it all the way off, turn it one click on and the battery light is on. Wait, I don't think the batt light should be on with just one click of the ignition, is it?

Whatever. Sounds like my ignition switch crapped out I guess. Hit 166k miles and the truck just keeps doing stupid things to me :no:

Good thing I didn't pull the insurance on my summer car quite yet!
 
I think its about time to getcha another 360. Sounds to me its gonna nickel and some ya to death. Start over with one with less rust or maybe no rust...good luck buddy.
 
I don't have the money for another one and this is the worst time of year to buy one anyway.

I wanted to get this one past 200k, rust or not, but if it doesn't behave I'll have to nuke it or something :lipsrsealed: So far all these recent issues are pretty small, just when they all happen at the same time, at a really bad time, it just makes it that much more frustrating and stressful :crazy:
 
Status
Not open for further replies.

Forum Statistics

Threads
24,095
Posts
646,735
Members
20,326
Latest member
awall89

Members Online

Total: 1,356 (members: 3, guests: 1,353)

Share This Page

Share This Page
Top Bottom
Back