What did you do to your GMT today?

[HARDTRAILZ]

Got a Duracell AGM battery today. (78DTAGM) Rebranded Deka that is made by East Penn. Made in US with US parts.

Specifications

•20 amp hour rate:55
•BCI Group Size:34/78
•CA at 32 degrees F:955
•CCA at 0 degrees F:775
•Reserve Capacity:120
•Volts:12
•Core Charge may apply

Warranty

36 months Free Replacement

Features:
Superior starting power, high reserve capacity, and long lasting life, there’s no match for these intimidating AGM BATTERIES. Advanced AGM technology with dual purpose design makes it great for quick starts and plenty of competition-quality accessory power for • stereo systems • boats & RVs • hydraulic lifts • winches • on-board electronics • and many other power demands. The tight-pack plate and separator construction provides added power for resistance against hard-hitting stereo, competitive racing, or off-road wear and tear vibration. Along with a more efficient design, it also has the same case/cover configuration used by original equipment manufacturers for an easier fit into more applications. No elaborate marketing gimmicks or hold-down retrofits, just decades of experience to provide a better fit, more power and longer life.

 

[gmcman]

Cleaned.

 

[Voymom]

Attempted to do a fuel pressure test, but the gauge we rented was broken Oreilly's can't get a new one until tomorrow either.....either that or we have zero, zilch, nada fuel pressure which can't be if I understand correctly because we can still drive the truck lol.

We will be switching out the fuel filter as well. We also got a new air filter and if we have enough daylight...end links and t-case will get done as well.

 

[mubai]

Cleaned.

uuuummm...the plate still looks dirty. I usually take the plate out and give it a good scrub.

 

[Voymom]

Well we found the missing valve to the fuel pressure tester and was able to actually do the fuel pressure test....it came out normal at 57. We changed the CPAS, air filter, fuel filter, tried seafoam in every possible area, changed spark plugs, and still running rich...I'm starting to think it may be an injector issue. I guess we will try the BG 44k injector cleaner and see how that goes. If all else fails, we will do an injector test and replace as needed. If that doesn't fix the issue....I guess a combustion test but I don't think that is the issue, but could be wrong. I'm really stumped on this one.

 

[Sparky]

Pardon me if I missed it but what about the fuel pressure regulator?

 

[Voymom]

Pardon me if I missed it but what about the fuel pressure regulator?

If this is the vacuum line to the FPR then yes we did test it, and there was no change in symptoms no change in anything really. If this is the wrong one...we will try again lol The line was also dry...no liquid in it at all.

View attachment 23973

 

[tripplesix]

I traded mine in!!

I bought my GMT today...:wootwoot:

Congrats!! I hope you love it!

 

[gmcman]

uuuummm...the plate still looks dirty. I usually take the plate out and give it a good scrub.

Nah....I don't want to mess with those screws. The black you see is more or less a stain, you can't even catch it with your fingernail. If the screws stay put then they should always be there IMO. I just don't like the idea of working those screws in and out and having the possibility of one vibrating loose and ending up under a valve seat.

That will ruin your week.

 

[jrSS]

A little tb cleaner usually does the trick for me...and I don't even scrub. Apply dry and done.

 

[Mypetropig]

If this is the vacuum line to the FPR then yes we did test it, and there was no change in symptoms no change in anything really. If this is the wrong one...we will try again lol The line was also dry...no liquid in it at all.

View attachment 10621

Yes that is the correct vaccum line and if memory serves it should be dry on that side. I have read where folks say that when that line is removed with the engine running the idle should increase, can some one answer that question for me please.. Mine doesnt do anything either when the line is off so IDK. When I had funny idle issues it turned out to be the cam sensor.

 

[Voymom]

Yes that is the correct vaccum line and if memory serves it should be dry on that side. I have read where folks say that when that line is removed with the engine running the idle should increase, can some one answer that question for me please.. Mine doesnt do anything either when the line is off so IDK. When I had funny idle issues it turned out to be the cam sensor.

But did you have a code for that I have no codes at all....I know codes aren't thrown for every little thing although they should design a noob button/easy button that gives off an idiot light or SES light for every slightest thing lol It would be SOOO helpful for things like this!!

 

[Mypetropig]

Eventually the SES light came on and it set a code but only after about 4-5 months of trying to figure it out. I happened to be at a stop light when it started trying to stall and the light came on. There just so happened to be an Autozone at the intersection, which was good cause the light never stayed on very long.

 

[Voymom]

Eventually the SES light came on and it set a code but only after about 4-5 months of trying to figure it out. I happened to be at a stop light when it started trying to stall and the light came on. There just so happened to be an Autozone at the intersection, which was good cause the light never stayed on very long.

Yeah we have yet to get a code. We have been dealing with this issue for 8-9 months now and still no idea what is causing it.

 

[AV8ER]

Checked the tire pressures. The GPU is an essential part of listening to the radio while working on it in the shop!

 

[Mypetropig]

Yeah we have yet to get a code. We have been dealing with this issue for 8-9 months now and still no idea what is causing it.

The cam sensor is worth a shot. Its only like $10 for the AC Delco from rockauto.

 

[Guano]

Trauma of new windshield today, safelite tint seems less than oem LTZ glass but what are you going to do $100 deduct, lifetime, & done spend most of my drivetime at night anyway.

 

[Striker-7]

Replaced A/C mode door actuator per instructions here and at TV. Took about an hour, and two attempts at sync'ing the gear set, some minor snarling at the actuator while trying to get the sector gear to sit on the case boss, but successful in the end.

Cleaned the throttle body, pulled and cleaned the MAF sensor, pulled and cleaned connectors on the throttle body and accelerator pedal sensor trying to defeat this stupid intermittent "slow driving CEL" issue.

Now to go polish the headlight lenses, since they are only lightly clouded and I'd like to keep it that way.

 

[Voymom]

Well we spent the last 3 hours checking all of our grounds and wires making sure they are cleaned and in good condition, which they were. We decided to pull the coil packs to check on the spark plugs, we found that the valve cover bolts were really loose, so we tightened those...we also noticed where the loose bolts were, there was leakage. Checked all the coil packs, all are dry, checked all the spark plugs and found that #4 had oil in the bottom, but the plug was completely dry as well as the coil pack. Oil seemed to be dripping from the top and not coming from the bottom(if that makes sense).

Cleaned up what we could, tightened what we could, and put everything back. Not sure if this is the issue...but that's what we have done so far. Rear end links and transfer case will get done today as well....finally.

View attachment 23999

View attachment 24000

View attachment 24001

These oil spots on the #4 coil pack are dried and old, no new oil on it, we just did our plugs a week ago.

View attachment 24002

 

[fr34kout]

Accumulation of some of the things I've gotten / done in the last few days.

Stainless Steel Braided brake lines

Drilled & Slotted rotors with ceramic pads.

Painted with high temp Martin Senour black from napa

Decided that the flat black wasn't going to cut it with satin black in the fender well so I grabbed some Dupli Color engine enamel. Going to end up sanding the imperfections and runs (damn nozzle on the duplicolor was a narry spray) and recoat them later.

Also sprayed the pads

Not going on till I get my rims

 

[Wooluf1952]

I may be wrong, but I think it's a bad idea to paint the braking surface of the rotor.

 

[fr34kout]

I was unsure about it at first, but I wanted to paint at the very least the hats. I did quite a bit of googling and saw that on many many forums (corvette, tc, etc etc) people were doing this with no ill effects. The pads break through the paint in a mile or so and get it back down to the bare rotor surface.

 

[Hypnotoad]

I was unsure about it at first, but I wanted to paint at the very least the hats. I did quite a bit of googling and saw that on many many forums (corvette, tc, etc etc) people were doing this with no ill effects. The pads break through the paint in a mile or so and get it back down to the bare rotor surface.

It'll wear off in the first few stops, I'm sure, but I'd be afraid of glazing the surface of the rotor. I've always been taught to keep the rotor surface as clean as possible, I don't even install a rotor with finger prints just to be safe.

 

[fr34kout]

I cleaned them thoroughly with brake clean before I sprayed the surface, so they were free of grease,wax, etc before they got sprayed. Once the paint wears through, it should be clean surface. Only time will tell

 

[jrSS]

I need to do mine BUT its getting too cold out for painting. Damn wish I wouldn't have waited.

 

[Wooluf1952]

I was thinking more about the paint caking on the pad.
Not having to tape off the disc sure would save time and effort.

 

[fr34kout]

The edge of the slotted sections should do a good job of scraping the pad clean, at least that's the hope.

 

[NewfieEnvoy]

Put on buddy's winter cost of Collinite 467s double coat wax. then pulled him out of the garage back out into the crap weather.

 

[woody79]

Tried to get truck inspected yesterday .... kind of forgot that I was going to replace the rear pads before it got inspected. Needless to say it didn't pass. I spent some time this morning replacing the rear pads.

View attachment 24021


New vs Old ....
View attachment 24022

Also got some new rubber on her.

 

[meerschm]

Tried to get truck inspected yesterday .... kind of forgot that I was going to replace the rear pads before it got inspected. Needless to say it didn't pass. I spent some time this morning replacing the rear pads.

View attachment 10670


New vs Old ....
View attachment 10671

Also got some new rubber on her.

Woody,

what do your drive shafts look like? (rust wise)

 

[woody79]

Woody,

what do your drive shafts look like? (rust wise)

Don't think they look bad at all. Not to much rust. I like to run the truck through a good wash regularly during the winter to get all the salt off the undercarriage. The pads and rotors on the rear are original from when I got the truck 2nd hand in 2009.

 

[Boricua SS]

Tried to get truck inspected yesterday .... kind of forgot that I was going to replace the rear pads before it got inspected. Needless to say it didn't pass. I spent some time this morning replacing the rear pads.

wait a minute... they fail you for an inspection if you need to change pads? damn, and i thought Ohio's E-Check was bad with having to have cats, mufflers, etc...

 

[woody79]

wait a minute... they fail you for an inspection if you need to change pads? damn, and i thought Ohio's E-Check was bad with having to have cats, mufflers, etc...

Yeah man. If the pads are less than a certain measurement then they fail you (this is NY state after all ). I had known they were bad for a little while, just never got around to it

 

[mapanch]

wait a minute... they fail you for an inspection if you need to change pads? damn, and i thought Ohio's E-Check was bad with having to have cats, mufflers, etc...

I don't have to do any inspections where I'm at. Just you city dwellers. Or they figure the air is bad enough down here, whats the point?

 

[Voymom]

IA doesn't have any type of inspections...if they do, then I'm late to the party by 3 years lol.

Today, I drove the dirty boy to the store and back home. He definitely feels like he has a lot more power now.

 

[gmcman]

Deleted, double-post

 

[gmcman]

Lame.

I see a small gap. Inspector should have let you roll out and told you to repair it soon.

Unless the pad tapered down towards the other side. Just a pain to get it reinspected.

 

[Short Bus]

wait a minute... they fail you for an inspection if you need to change pads? damn, and i thought Ohio's E-Check was bad with having to have cats, mufflers, etc...

What is this E-Check

 

[Sparky]

Only a couple counties in the general Cleveland area have E-check in Ohio. The rest of us don't have to worry about it, which is a good thing as I'm certain my summer toy would fail miserably lol.

 

[gmcman]

wait a minute... they fail you for an inspection if you need to change pads? damn, and i thought Ohio's E-Check was bad with having to have cats, mufflers, etc...

I had aftermarket fogs and one bulb was burned out and I failed. Unless I cut the harness to the bad bulb to make it a "decoration" I would have to come back.

Total BS and he was a prick, but I cut it since I was tosing them anyway and I surely didn't want to spend a Sat morning in line again. I did let him know after he licked it and sticked it that the whole show was ridiculous.

One time years ago I had a small crack in my reverse lens on my Grand Am and I failed because moisture may get in there.

VA safety inspection is fun.