What did you do to your GMT today?

[gmcman]

Well, that didn't happen. I dropped the truck off at 7.30 when they opened. Written on the paperwork was the fact that the axle, seal and fluid was in the passengers footwell. Cocksucker rang me at 4.30 and said they weren't going to touch it because the axle was out of it and they didn't know what the condition of the diff was.

Are you shitting me? Fucking 9 hours waiting and you do that?

That's messed up....did you have an appt?

 

[HeavyChevy4200]

Boots and stickers should be good for another 5hp, right?

 

[Aarkon]

drove it home from vacation and packed it full of fireworks to bring back

 

[Blckshdw]

drove it home from vacation and packed it full of fireworks to bring back

Damnit man!! You were doing good up until now!!

 

[SnowBlazer]

20150718_134831.jpgdrove it home from vacation and packed it full of fireworks to bring back

That selfie game is on point.

 

[kjkim93]

Ordered some rear Bilstiens

 

[gmcman]

Installed a Mishimoto compact baffled oil catch can. Hunted around awhile trying to find a spot that I could empty the can from and keep the install somewhat neat. I've had some metal pieces laying around for a couple years and this one bracket worked out perfectly. Had to pre-drill the self tapping screws first due to the thick metal but the other large hole fit the brake booster bolt perfectly.






Trimmed the molded hose about 2 1/4" and this worked out just right since the inlet side was 90 deg to the return port on the intake.



I had a 1/2" ID oil resistant hose from McMaster Carr I picked up last year for this project and luckily this can uses 3/8" pipe fittings which accompany 1/2" hose barbs, cut hose to 17" to give me an easy radius to not restrict flow. I used this on the crankcase side due to the oil that will be laying in the hose.



Turned out better than I had planned, I may add another hose barb in the drain port if it fills up quickly to ease draining, but there's ample room to reach down and unscrew the can.

 

[mcsteven]

Installed a Derale 10-row stacked plate trans cooler. Just enough width on the drivers side, pass side opening is about 1/2" narrower.

What had you go with a Derale? I've been looking at a few, and I see Derale, Hayden, and B&M. I'd like to get a good quality, but also one that fits easily. I don't tow much, and I don't run in desert heat. I just figure that $50-$75 is a pretty good investment to lengthen the life of a very expensive component.

I see on the Derale one that it, "Includes line adapter to eliminate cutting transmission oil lines." Was it a simple line swap?

One that I was looking at was the B&M 70268, as it passes thicker fluid back and thinner fluid it runs through the cooler. But as I think about it more, I'd rather K.I.S.S. Now I'm looking at the Derale 13102 and the Hayden 403 or the Hayden 678. But I think the 678 does about the same thing as the B&M. Got to research more.

So - what did you base your decision on?

 

[Matt]

That's messed up....did you have an appt?

Yes and I told them the situ over the phone when I made it.

 

[gmcman]

What had you go with a Derale? I've been looking at a few, and I see Derale, Hayden, and B&M. I'd like to get a good quality, but also one that fits easily. I don't tow much, and I don't run in desert heat. I just figure that $50-$75 is a pretty good investment to lengthen the life of a very expensive component.

You don't need to tow, just keeping the fluid temps in check is reason enough. However, most members here, including myself, have surpassed 200K with no extra cooling. But, I don't like replacing expensive parts or components so I wish I had added a cooler earlier just for peace of mind. I went with Derale because they have a wide variety of applications, well-respected, and mainly the size of the cooler because I wanted a stacked-plate so i wouldn't need a larger tube to fin cooler...the stacked plate is more efficient.

$50-75, or even $100 is very cheap insurance indeed, I agree. Also the best thing to do is keep your fluid flushed every 30-40K, there are fluids that last 100K but regardless not all tranny's are the same. Change the separator plate at around 100-120K is cheap insurance also.

I see on the Derale one that it, "Includes line adapter to eliminate cutting transmission oil lines." Was it a simple line swap?

The line adapter will fit, but I used the stock cooler line since it's bent at 90 deg and keeps a clean install. The line adapter is straight and the hose won't make a sharp bend so the entire outlet connection will extend father than I felt comfortable with. Cutting the line isn't bad at all and is a nice, clean install.

I bought an extra cooler line from the radiator outlet port back to the quick connect on the frame near the power steering pump just in case I screwed up. I took the stock line off, then cut it about 12" back from the outlet. I put a slight flare at the end so the hose would grip, I recommend this. If you don't flare, then be sure you push the hose on about 2-3" and use 2 hose clamps,

One that I was looking at was the B&M 70268, as it passes thicker fluid back and thinner fluid it runs through the cooler. But as I think about it more, I'd rather K.I.S.S. Now I'm looking at the Derale 13102 and the Hayden 403 or the Hayden 678. But I think the 678 does about the same thing as the B&M. Got to research more.

So - what did you base your decision on?

I was going to go that route, but I wanted a simple cooler, the stacked plate cools with a smaller unit as well as a larger generic cooler. Keep in mind you want the fluid temps warm enough for proper trans operation and moisture evaporation. The Derale 10-row unit fits perfectly on the drivers side, just needed to take some time with a couple angle brackets from my local ACE since I didn't go with the Derale mounting bracket...probably should have.


The 4' hose that came with the cooler wasn't long enough, I would recommend picking up another 4' of hose to be safe, you will have a little excess. I was going to get another larger cooler but I didn't want to block the AC condenser any more than I needed to, our AC struggles as it is sometimes.

I believe any cooler would work well, mine won't keep the temps from climbing in extended stop and go, has seen around 190 with the cooler but at speed it's generally 170-175 which is much better than the 200-205 I was getting while driving. Without the cooler in stop and go my trans temps were 205 easily.

I have mine mounted about 2" in front of the condenser, I may experiment and mount it flush against the condenser later on to see if that improves cooling in stop and go traffic since the fan may have more of a positive effect on airflow with it being flush.....dunno.

 

[Blckshdw]

Filled the tank, and messed around with the rear wiper. Looks like the arm wasn't properly seating in the cradle, causing it to get stuck, and with the motor continuing to try to push the arm into place, it was draining the battery. A little manual persuasion and it seems to be setting properly now. Guess we'll know for sure in the morning if my battery isn't dead

 

[SnowBlazer]

Gassed up, touched up the plasti dip in the rear step plates, and touched up some paint chips in the rear bumper....all in preparation for it to sit for 5 days.

 

[mcsteven]

You don't need to tow, just keeping the fluid temps in check is reason enough. However, most members here, including myself, have surpassed 200K with no extra cooling. But, I don't like replacing expensive parts or components so I wish I had added a cooler earlier just for peace of mind. I went with Derale because they have a wide variety of applications, well-respected, and mainly the size of the cooler because I wanted a stacked-plate so i wouldn't need a larger tube to fin cooler...the stacked plate is more efficient.

$50-75, or even $100 is very cheap insurance indeed, I agree. Also the best thing to do is keep your fluid flushed every 30-40K, there are fluids that last 100K but regardless not all tranny's are the same. Change the separator plate at around 100-120K is cheap insurance also.



The line adapter will fit, but I used the stock cooler line since it's bent at 90 deg and keeps a clean install. The line adapter is straight and the hose won't make a sharp bend so the entire outlet connection will extend father than I felt comfortable with. Cutting the line isn't bad at all and is a nice, clean install.

I bought an extra cooler line from the radiator outlet port back to the quick connect on the frame near the power steering pump just in case I screwed up. I took the stock line off, then cut it about 12" back from the outlet. I put a slight flare at the end so the hose would grip, I recommend this. If you don't flare, then be sure you push the hose on about 2-3" and use 2 hose clamps,


I was going to go that route, but I wanted a simple cooler, the stacked plate cools with a smaller unit as well as a larger generic cooler. Keep in mind you want the fluid temps warm enough for proper trans operation and moisture evaporation. The Derale 10-row unit fits perfectly on the drivers side, just needed to take some time with a couple angle brackets from my local ACE since I didn't go with the Derale mounting bracket...probably should have.


The 4' hose that came with the cooler wasn't long enough, I would recommend picking up another 4' of hose to be safe, you will have a little excess. I was going to get another larger cooler but I didn't want to block the AC condenser any more than I needed to, our AC struggles as it is sometimes.

I believe any cooler would work well, mine won't keep the temps from climbing in extended stop and go, has seen around 190 with the cooler but at speed it's generally 170-175 which is much better than the 200-205 I was getting while driving. Without the cooler in stop and go my trans temps were 205 easily.

I have mine mounted about 2" in front of the condenser, I may experiment and mount it flush against the condenser later on to see if that improves cooling in stop and go traffic since the fan may have more of a positive effect on airflow with it being flush.....dunno.

Checking out Derale's site, it seems you're using the 13401. Is that right? Did you have to pull the bumper cover or just the grille (we've got same truck, just different years. Mine's a 2006)? I'm going to do the trans fluid change in the next few thousand miles, so it'll be a good time to install a cooler as well. From your notes if I go with this one I'll likely get their mounting hardware and an extra length of hose. Appreciate your input.

Boots and stickers should be good for another 5hp, right?

Decals - not stickers. Stickers won't give you anything. Decals, on the other hand, are worth 5 hp alone. If the boots match other accessories they'll give you 2 or 3 hp each side.

 

[gmcman]

Checking out Derale's site, it seems you're using the 13401. Is that right? Did you have to pull the bumper cover or just the grille (we've got same truck, just different years. Mine's a 2006)?

Correct, it was the 13401. I was going to get the 13-row plate and fin model 13613, but I didn't know if I covered more of the condenser would it affect my A/C.

I only needed to remove the grill, I drilled 2 holes in the flat plastic splash guard at the bottom of the radiator behind the bumper cover...I used a 3/4" forstner bit.

 

[Mounce]

Took it for a drive to get out of the hot house and cool off for a little while then later got bored and put a chair on its roof for the scavenger hunt.

 

[Capote]

 

[BC backroader]

Changed a blowout on the right rear after dinging the lip of the rim on a rock while climbing a steep, narrow old logging road. Because of the location, I had to drive another 150 yards to get a level spot, wide enoygh to not block the trail if anyone came along. That destroyed the tire completely, of course:-(

Now I need a new tire and an OEM rim.

 

[Mike w]

4 hi mod

[sharedmedia=gallery:images:1325]

 

[RedRocketZ28]

Changed my front diff seal yesterday and topped it off with some Mobil 1 75w90. All went well and so far the seal is still dry. Will check it again when I get home from work this evening. The thing was puking diff fluid all over the bottom side of the truck and would leave some nice sized spots on my garage floor. Was pretty easy to pinpoint where the leak was coming from as every time I checked the fluid level and added a bit to keep it full I would clean everything good. The seal was always wet which was caking the CV tripot and boot.

This coming weekend will be an oil change and transfer case fluid replacement. Before the winter my list will be new tires, shocks, brakes, and figure out why my coolant reservoir won't hold fluid. Radiator stays plenty full so no issues there.

I've roughly 21k miles on the old Rainier since purchasing last October. Just rolled over 105k.

 

[Sparky]

Tell me how did you get that seal out? We couldn't get Matt's seal out for anything and I can't remember mine being that difficult when I yanked it a few years ago, but I don't recall how I did it either.

 

[littleblazer]

Tell me how did you get that seal out? We couldn't get Matt's seal out for anything and I can't remember mine being that difficult when I yanked it a few years ago, but I don't recall how I did it either.

I used a 5 lb slide hammer and that claw attachment and hammered on it for about 10 minutes.

 

[HARDTRAILZ]

Saturday is finally got a quick wash from the muddy adventure a few weeks ago.

 

[24v 4.2]

IMG_20150719_143111.jpg IMG_20150719_171851.jpg

What are you doing with the cams?

 

[RedRocketZ28]

I used a slide hammer as well but used a "screw" attachment that was in the kit. Basically drilled a small hole into the outer part of the seal, put the screw in it, attached it to the slide hammer, and wham, couple of whacks and it popped out. I think I got lucky with the whole project. My CV popped out with two whacks of a 4 lb. mini sledge on a long 1/2" extension.

 

[Matt]

I used a 5 lb slide hammer and that claw attachment and hammered on it for about 10 minutes.

The "claws" on the one we rented were farked from some dickhead that use it before...that's why mine didn't come out. Dropping it off at a shop on Thursday that said they will do it despite the axle already being out of it.

 

[mcsteven]

IMG_20150719_143111.jpg

IMG_20150719_171851.jpg

I thought the Atlas engines had a double row timing chain.

So, yeah, is this a hotter cam or are you showing the cleanup, what?

 

[Blckshdw]

I thought the Atlas engines had a double row timing chain.

So, yeah, is this a hotter cam or are you showing the cleanup, what?

Details in his build thread.

 

[Matt]

Dropped it off at the shop this morning for the diff seal.

ETA: They just called and said that there was a lot of metal in the gear oil...makes me worried. If it's shavings/flakes, I've read here, that it's fairly normal, as long as there's no chunks.

Can anyone confirm?

 

[Sparky]

I don't recall seeing anything worth mentioning in the gear oil we drained. That said, I also don't see how they could have found metal in gear oil since we had drained it, unless they filled it and drained again.

 

[Matt]

I don't recall seeing anything worth mentioning in the gear oil we drained. That said, I also don't see how they could have found metal in gear oil since we had drained it, unless they filled it and drained again.

I added oil on Saturday so it had something in it, just as a "precaution". They're going to show me when I pick it up. I'll take some pics on chuck them up here for a consensus.

 

[xavierny25]

Stood up for her like a mad man. Cursed that he'll out of the person who actually took the time to get there f - in nail and pull off the slt badge. wtf

Unfortunately the person was long gone.

 

[Matt]

I added oil on Saturday so it had something in it, just as a "precaution". They're going to show me when I pick it up. I'll take some pics on chuck them up here for a consensus.

Here's a pic. They actually got parts of that in there and wiped it out (so, to me, it looks a lot worse than it actually is) and flushed out the diff. I'll keep an eye on it and check the fluid every month for anything metallic.

 

[Sparky]

If they wiped at it then I would suspect that you'd get more gunk that way than just draining.

I still don't know what would have changed between when we pulled the axle and when they put the new seal in. It was capped, not run in 4WD, etc. Weird.

I guess like you said just run it and check it.

 

[Matt]

Yeah, that's my thought mate. Wasn't anything like what they were saying over the phone. Just happy to have the axle back in...now for brakes.

 

[smt 59]

Left her in the garage and took the wife's Equinox today.

 

[HeavyChevy4200]

Changed the front and rear diff fluid and changed out the transfer case fluid. I think it was all original as the fluid was very dark.

I also found out my rear end has a magnetic drain plug. I found this out after I removed all the red thread locked bolts and the cover came off. Grrr.

And I found some slung grease around driver side tripod. No tears and the boots were still seated. Clamped both CV axles with some big hose clsmps. Cleaned everything up and hopefully that takes care of that.

 

[TexazReece]

Possible washing and oil change today. It really needs a washing since my jobs location is next to the airport and every time I get off I find liquid spots all over the truck. Blaming the airliners that pass over throughout the day.

 

[Kyle]

Finished the underhood LED install and fixed those supid rear door seals. I let it go way too long. It was driving me crazy!!!!!

 

[Matt]

Getting a wheel alighnment and filling it up.

 

[24v 4.2]

Replaced drivers side lower control arm, Greased all 4 balljoints, replaced front sway bar endlinks with polyurethane.


Next weekend:
Belltech struts and shocks, front swaybar bushings (polyurethane), rear swaybar bushings and endlinks (polyurethane).