What did you do to your GMT today?

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djthumper said:
It is 15% I am still considering to darken the others even more except for the hatch.
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I did 20 n its a good match to factory 17 n 18 rears.
 
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It is a good match. I could really tell the difference when I climbed in today.
 
Wired in my Rigid duallys to be on only when the low beams are on on the S10. Now i just need to order in some new ballasts and fab up a heavy duty relay harness for the 6" HID off road lights.
 
Got the big ball joint kit for tomorrow's adventure
 
HARDTRAILZ said:
Got the big call joint kit for tomorrow's adventure
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It's a good thing too, you never know when you need to call a big joint rather than a small one. I wasn't aware the cellular hardware was in them and not OnStar.
 
OnStar sucks...
 
Aarkon said:
I just got a letter the other day saying mine wasnt valid anymore
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It's funny how just six years from the factory floor, they're saying, "oh by the way this system you have has been deemed obsolete. Deal with it, or go get the latest module for about $2000 at your local dealer!"

Take a lesson from Microsoft. They announced the WinXP EOL. Then they EXTENDED IT. Then, even though it's dead (unless you bought an extended service contract, very expensive so it's something only a corporation could afford) they pushed an emergency patch for the IE flaw at least.

Now we get vehicles that even though the common life span with proper care should be AT LEAST 10 years minimum, they're selling them with features that are "removed" in a way just a while later. At least starting in I believe 05 or 06 the OnStar module was made standard rather than an option, I would have been furious to pay the extra to have it installed just to have it be useless a few years later. Which funny enough, happened with the whole "get everything digital" push.
 
Ya wat pissed me off though is that I have an 08 and spent extra money on the on star cd player harness and 6months later got this letter
 
Blckshdw said:
I masked and painted the bow ties on my center caps about 4 years ago, and they are just now starting to show some tiny chips in the paint.
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Am I the only one that likes the yellow bow ties?
IllogicTC said:
Having BlueTooth made it pretty nifty. Shame that came out way too late for most of us.
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I've been looking into the Onstar FMV for the bluetooth, plus with all the driving I do my mom insists I have it on the primary car
 
Got my brakes but rain delayed install
 
Swapped out the Bilstein SS shocks for some Rancho's, very easy to install, no need to remove wheelsor anything, just slide under and 1/2 later your done.




 
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rmsg0040 said:
Swapped out the Bilstein SS shocks for some Rancho's, very easy to install, no need to remove wheelsor anything, just slide under and 1/2 later your done.
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Were the SS shocks shot?
 
^^ yep the passenger side was toast, was deciding to get the Bilstein HD's, but these were $30 cheaper on rockauto, I am happy
 
Didn't do a darn thing to it today, other than walk by it in the shop multiple times to get saws and chain. Got several trees cut and more limbed up - been spending way more time in the farm truck than my poor Voy. On the bright side, I have gotten REALLY good and now am familiar again with all the intricacies of driving a 200,000 mile 5 speed with mucho slop in the driveline and a clutch that doesn't do a thing until the pedal is about an inch from the top of its travel. :rotfl:
 
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Had some free time finally from final projects! Drove it and gave it some gas. But I'm starting to hear a squeal only when I'm driving and pressing the accelerator. No sound while idiling, but when I'm mashing the pedal I hear it squeal with the rpm. Went on newgmpart and ordered a new belt and idler pully
 
Definitely gotta lower that thing!

The beaSSt had her final trip to the dealership. $1000 later and I have my AC again and no more coolant leaks (AC died during the final motor install). I had to buy a new AC compressor, accumulator, all o-rings/seals, & AC belt. That cost me $376 (i get my fathers discount at the dealership so everything is OEM). After they installed the compressor, etc... AC still wasnt working and it turns out the relay to the compressor was internally shorted so i had to buy a new relay too. Then while they were in there, the water pump was leaking from the rear heater hose nipple that is pressed into the water pump and as you guessed it, you gotta buy a new pump to fix it. So $156 for a new OEM pump (since they had it all apart, I just let them order and install the pump too. Sometimes you pay for convenience as well even though I know how to and have the tools to change the pump myself). All those parts, plus 7 hours of labor at $50 an hour (which is a huuuge discount coming from a dealer. I normally get charged $78 an hour due to my fathers discount but since I was hosed during the whole motor ordeal, and since im out of warranty, the service manager did what he could for me) and the beaSSt is finally fully fixed. The only original parts left under the hood are my power steering pump and Alt lol. She should be good for a loooongntime to come.
 
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Boricua SS said:
Definitely gotta lower that thing!

The beaSSt had her final trip to the dealership. $1000 later and I have my AC again and no more coolant leaks (AC died during the final motor install). I had to buy a new AC compressor, accumulator, all o-rings/seals, & AC belt. That cost me $376 (i get my fathers discount at the dealership so everything is OEM). After they installed the compressor, etc... AC still wasnt working and it turns out the relay to the compressor was internally shorted so i had to buy a new relay too. Then while they were in there, the water pump was leaking from the rear heater hose nipple that is pressed into the water pump and as you guessed it, you gotta buy a new pump to fix it. So $156 for a new OEM pump (since they had it all apart, I just let them order and install the pump too. Sometimes you pay for convenience as well even though I know how to and have the tools to change the pump myself). All those parts, plus 7 hours of labor at $50 an hour (which is a huuuge discount coming from a dealer. I normally get charged $78 an hour due to my fathers discount but since I was hosed during the whole motor ordeal, and since im out of warranty, the service manager did what he could for me) and the beaSSt is finally fully fixed. The only original parts left under the hood are my power steering pump and Alt lol. She should be for a loooongntime to come.
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Wishing many luck to the beaSSt! [emoji106]
 
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kjkim93 said:
Wishing many luck to the beaSSt! [emoji106]
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You and me both! :rotfl:
 
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Lol I know I want to so bad! That is definetly my next major mod. I've already spoken to Tony... I'm gonna buy the lowering kit first and just hold on to it until I have enough for the A-arms. Prolly be time for end links and all that fun stuff! Hopefully by the end of the year!
 
yodaddy4200 said:
Lol I know I want to so bad! That is definetly my next major mod. I've already spoken to Tony... I'm gonna buy the lowering kit first and just hold on to it until I have enough for the A-arms. Prolly be time for end links and all that fun stuff! Hopefully by the end of the year!
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That will look sweet :thumbsup: You should color match those mirror covers as well, pretty cheap and easy mod.
 
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Slapped on some new spacers courtesy of Mark, really impressive product. Put in a new turn signal/hazard flasher hoping that it would solve my turn signals bleeding into the parking circuit, but no luck there. Put some Amsoil SG in the front diff since that was way past due. (Those previous owners can be hellish with their negligence.)
 
02TrailBlazer said:
Put in a new turn signal/hazard flasher hoping that it would solve my turn signals bleeding into the parking circuit, but no luck there.
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What kind of bulbs do you have in your truck? I had this happen to me after doing my projector retrofit, but I replaced my LED bulbs (worked fine for years) with LED switchback strips.

For a couple of months, everything was fine, then the left turn signal started bleeding over to the right side through the parking lights, unless the parking lights were already on. A couple weeks later, it started happening from the other side too. Ended up adding a diode on the parking light signal up front where I had my 3157 pigtails and that fixed it.

Now I'm having a different issue with the signals bleeding on the driver's side on a cold start, and I suspect damaged wiring as I've replaced/swapped everything aftermarket that I've put in. P.I.A.
 
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Used a concrete drill to finally remove the lower ball joint, so I only got one side done and have to do the other tonight.
 
Blckshdw said:
What kind of bulbs do you have in your truck? I had this happen to me after doing my projector retrofit, but I replaced my LED bulbs (worked fine for years) with LED switchback strips.
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Back to stock at the moment, it is really faint at stock config. only enough to dimly light the front 194's. I originally noticed it when I put in my modded taillight boards with led bulbs which lit up like I had my hazards on whenever I went to turn lol, so I took those out and went back to stock for the troubleshooting which hasn't ended yet.
AFAIK, it has to be a bad ground for the turn signals OR bulbs/sockets that are messed up.
I'd rather fix the source of the bleed but if it comes down to it I'll just add diodes.
On a side note, if I determine that it's turn signal grounds it should be a cleaning of G401 and G402. That or I make a new ground straight to the battery.
 
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