What did you do to your GMT today?

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yodaddy4200 said:
Those look sick! How many watts rms?
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Thanks man and it sounds awesome as well. Both the Alpine SWR-10D4 and D2 are 1000 watts RMS.

What box you going with?
 
Damn those are gonna be so loud! And I thought I was gonna have flex/vibration issues:rotfl:


My good friend that's helping with the install is going to help me make a custom fiberglass box and possibly an amp rack too. Should be getting on it here soon!
 
Got an oil change and a fe w mechanical issues were found. My rear stabilizer sway bar link was toast, and my tranny pan was leaking slowly. I replaced the link and tightened down my tranny pan. The bolts were all loose where the leaks were thickest. Ill keep an eye on it.
 
Drove into San Francisco this morning at 5 AM. Tired, cranky. Looked down and one of my gauges was pegged all the way over. FUCK. OK, slow down, turn up the dash brightness, oh, wow, that's the fuel gauge. Don't usually see it full. And have only had a working gauge for a few months. Bought it used and the sender was bad at the time.

EDIT: ok, so I drove it today.
 
Nice job! I see that you have the Navigation, do you or anyone else, know if you can hookup a backup camera to the
stock Navigation unit? I'm thinking of installing a Kenwood DNX 890HD unit, but also wondering about the factory nav
although the Saab 9-7x uses the same one as the Hummer not the TB or Envoy.
 
ddgm said:
Nice job! I see that you have the Navigation, do you or anyone else, know if you can hookup a backup camera to the
stock Navigation unit? I'm thinking of installing a Kenwood DNX 890HD unit, but also wondering about the factory nav
although the Saab 9-7x uses the same one as the Hummer not the TB or Envoy.
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Yes and it is my next project. You will need to open the unit and install some type or motherboard inside the oem unit that comes with the harness.
 
Doing some post winter cleanup to it today.
 
A day with the GMT's.

First I spent way too much time getting the Voy's spare to drop. Pushing up with the jack didn't help. Finally after cranking a bunch in the up direction the safety released and it dropped. Lubed the heck out of the safety. Aired the spare up and rinsed it off. The rim is getting pretty rusted (I'm sure this past winter did not help). Wondering if I should replace the rim?

Checked CPAS connector and all clean. Plasti-Dipped the right side window and door lock switch so it matches the driver's side. Cleaned out the interior a little but it needs proper attention inside and out.

And finally the hinge on the rear wiper was really sticking. Lubed and freed that.

Also dropped the Silverado's spare. Interestingly it does not have a safety so it came right down. Aired it up and swept out the bed. It also needs a bath but I purposefully did not drive it around much in the salt.
 
cstern71 said:
Changed the transfer case fluid today. It was black with a green hue to it. Most of it is in the driveway now. It came out a lot faster than expected. I figured consistency would be about like motor oil, but I was wrong. I bought my tb 2.5 months ago, so I have no idea when it was done last. I'm right under 130k miles. The thing I'm a little curious about, one of my 2 bottles of auto trak 2 was a much darker blue than the other. The first one looked more like mouthwash and the second one looked like liquid smurf. Same part number on the bottles. Should I be concerned?

I also crawled under the rear diff to check out the fill and drain plugs (woo hoo 2003). Fill plug appeared to be completely fused to the casing, but I managed to get it loose with some pb blaster. Also something I noticed is a lot of guys say to use a 3/8 extension to open it. I found that it was a lot more likely to wobble and help round out the hole. Its hard to keep it straight while applying the force needed to turn the plug. I was able to stick the ratchet head directly into the plug and it worked perfectly.

AC Delco spark plugs should be arriving later today, so I've got another project coming up.
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Any plans on doing a brake flush? Did mine not too long ago and cleaned out the reservoir and dropped new fluid in there.
 
Got second coat of clear on most of my rocker covers. Gotta get 1 more can of color to finish them
basu8a5u.jpg
 
Drove it to town to get a compression tester so I can work on a customer's ancient golf cart, and I used the A/C for the first time in many months. With my resonator gone and the "ultra high flow cat" mod, I love the throaty exhaust rumble at idle when the compressor is kicked in, but man do I hate the hit in gas mileage that it causes. :crazy:
 
Worked on door rust n changed diff fluid
 
All parts ordered Wednesday 4/9/11.
Got my order from Rock Auto on Friday 4/11/14 (brake hardware, RSB links, outside door handles, door panel pins), wrong part was in one of the link boxes so they're sending a correct one and one of the door handles was wrong finish although their site didn't specify so they gave me a refund and I'll be reordering one that specifies smooth paintable but has the keyhole where my TB pass side does not have a keyhole, I guess I'll be looking for a pass side lock cylinder next LOL but it's something I find convenient to have so np. RA handled the problems quick and easy, on this order great customer service.
Got my order from BrakeMotive on Saturday 4/12/14, rotors D/S/plated and ceramic pads all around.
Sat was a family day, older sons baseball league parade, played at the park and back at home too, and a little garden work.
Sunday 4/13/14 I did the rear brakes, most immediate need as the PS inner pad half through the metal and inner rotor side was about worn all the way through. I'm a bit meticulous especially on my own cars and especially on brakes, I'm also old LOL and battling a few physical things, SO, it took me a lot longer to do the job than it should have I guess.
BUT, it looks like I have to look at ordering some more parts, PS parking brake shoe worn completely away and the DS backing plate is in poor shape. I saw somewhere else on GMT that in order to do the baking plates you need to pull the axles, SO, I guess I'll also get axle seals and diff gasket, and axle bearings while I'm in there; but this job will be at a later time when the money and time permit and I'll essentially be doing the rear brakes again, I'll have the correct RSB links by then, and hopefully also be able to afford new shocks/struts. I'll do the front brakes, struts, rear shocks links brakes axles, and a full brake fluid change/bleed; I'll make it a whole weekend project and IF I can get motivated enough early on a Sat morning maybe I'll get it all done in that one day and I can get some of my other projects more completed on the Sun :rotfl:
Thanks for this forum! Bill.
 
billzie said:
Got my order from BrakeMotive on Saturday 4/12/14, rotors D/S/plated and ceramic pads all around.
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Where did you get your kit, Ebay? Looking to do this upgrade in the near future.
 
dmanns67 said:
Where did you get your kit, Ebay? Looking to do this upgrade in the near future.
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Looks like they're on sale right now. Better hurry!

[EBAY]390411249442[/EBAY]
 
Blckshdw said:
Looks like they're on sale right now. Better hurry!

[EBAY]390411249442[/EBAY]
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Says only compatible with 2002-2005 Trailblazer. Do they not make rotors for 2006-2009? I did a quick search and said zero results found :undecided:

Never mind, dropped the year from the search and they came up. Still on sale and free shipping for $187 :wootwoot:
 
I'm pretty sure all the SWB 4.2s have the same sized rotors and such. I know in Juan's thread, their site listed that they didn't even have TB equipment at the time :crazy:
 
Blckshdw said:
I'm pretty sure all the SWB 4.2s have the same sized rotors and such. I know in Juan's thread, their site listed that they didn't even have TB equipment at the time :crazy:
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The one you posted had a part# of BM6537875772 (2002-2005). The one I found for 2007 has a part# of BM9400866983 (2006-2009). I will have to look into this and see what the differences are. Thanks for the heads up.

Edit: After some more searching on BrakeMotive's EBay store, they definitely split up the GMT360 by 2002-2005 and 2006-2009. I could not find any information regarding the differences. I will see if I can contact them directly to find out in case anyone else is wondering. The part#'s listed about are for their "performance" kit which includes ceramic brake pads with their rotors. They also sell "premium" kits which are rotors only and have a separate part#'s for those as well.
 
Just finished my interior LED upgrades by doing all of the window switches and rear HVAC control. Now all of my overheads are white LED and every instrument bulb is blue LED (except the center two in the front HVAC controls. Those are white.) Debating on whether to start the exterior conversion, or just check into LED rehab.
 
reedtchsrv said:
Just finished my interior LED upgrades by doing all of the window switches and rear HVAC control. Now all of my overheads are white LED and every instrument bulb is blue LED (except the center two in the front HVAC controls. Those are white.) Debating on whether to start the exterior conversion, or just check into LED rehab.
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Pics or it didn't happen! :D
 
Drove it for date night w wife at her request. That's my girl!
 
reedtchsrv said:
Just finished my interior LED upgrades by doing all of the window switches and rear HVAC control. Now all of my overheads are white LED and every instrument bulb is blue LED (except the center two in the front HVAC controls. Those are white.) Debating on whether to start the exterior conversion...
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Good :yes:

reedtchsrv said:
or just check into LED rehab.
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Not good :no:
 
rojas84 said:
Changed out the plugs not sure if they've been changed 65k
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You should be fine... plugs in our trucks are 100,000 mile plugs... my first set which I changed at 89K were still in acceptable condition... second set I changed, one was a bit worn at 96K or so miles...
 
Pics of the first half of the project are on page 306. For some reason, my phone refuses to take good pictures this evening. Anyway, I had to find a 12oz cold pack to nurse a nasty soldering iron burn on my finger so I'll try pictures again tomorrow.
 
Howdy,
Yes I ordered them off Ebay, you can call them and order but they admit it will take twice as long to get them to you. Their compatability thingy on ebay doesn't work if you put in your trim level so leave it as any trim. I also called the number to verify ebay item number, took all of 2 min.
So far after 24 hrs, I'm happy with them. BTW, I think all the debate about drilled/slotted rotors for our applications and most street driven vehicles is all bunk, in the one pic of a cracked rotor on GMT I noticed that the two areas that are cracked are on nearly exact opposite sides of the rotor, this couldve happend to any rotor and could very likely be caused by a bad casting, I'm sure the manufacturer is not x-ray checking every rotor and Chinese materials are notorious for lesser quality than USA products, but try to find rotors made here any more LOL.
HTH, Bill.
 
Stopped by the dealer and picked up my brand new OEM header panel (love getting my fathers discount on all parts) since the very first mechanic that pulled the body off the frame to pull my motor broke it. He nor the service manager at the time of my first motor swap work there anymore and since im anal and want my chit fixed and original as possible, I just forked up the $100 bucks and I'll put it over the weekend.
 
Just ordered my 2nd GM motor mount,

Paid a total of $106 shipped for both...thanks ebay...:D

can't wait to install both and be done with the rough idle sensation...
 
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