amweaver47
Member
- May 15, 2012
- 122
jsheahawk said:"Nope. I haven't seen it, Mom."
Jared
I put it right back where it was and nobody knows any better. Besides, I didn't want to get my shirt dirty.
What did you do to your GMT today?
- Thread starter MAY03LT
- Start date
- Status
I put it right back where it was and nobody knows any better. Besides, I didn't want to get my shirt dirty.
ConeKilrAutoX
Member
- Dec 8, 2011
- 1,179
DROVE IT AGAIN FINALLY !
welded in my Hooker Header Aerochamber 3" muffler and all 3" piping. redid the tip and ill post a sound clip in a little bit. Summer 22's are on too.
View attachment 34088
View attachment 34089
View attachment 34090
welded in my Hooker Header Aerochamber 3" muffler and all 3" piping. redid the tip and ill post a sound clip in a little bit. Summer 22's are on too.
View attachment 34088
View attachment 34089
View attachment 34090
Attachments
Boricua SS
Member
Playsinsnow
Member
- Nov 17, 2012
- 9,727
Seeing the side exit exhaust. Very nice.
ConeKilrAutoX
Member
- Dec 8, 2011
- 1,179
New Exhaust Setup (please ignore my winter tires haha this was right before I put the summer tires on)
[video=youtube;H8Bsft4A4hA]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=H8Bsft4A4hA[/video]
short clip of some very mild acceleration
[video=youtube;TuZ-VatjM94]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TuZ-VatjM94[/video]
[video=youtube;H8Bsft4A4hA]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=H8Bsft4A4hA[/video]
short clip of some very mild acceleration
[video=youtube;TuZ-VatjM94]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TuZ-VatjM94[/video]
dmanns67 said:
That's on the list for next time. I wanted to go with those, but during my spring break I'm going on a drive and I wasn't sure if I could get it fast enough. 2 day shipping so should be here Tuesday or Wednesday.
triz said:
Unfortunately no! Lol but rotors are fairly new. My mechanic change the rotors and calipers couple months ago, and said the pads were good
Boricua SS
Member
Brakemotive shipped their stuff to my door step in one day. Impressive! Ordered on a Wednesday and they were here Thursday.
Changed the transfer case fluid today. It was black with a green hue to it. Most of it is in the driveway now. It came out a lot faster than expected. I figured consistency would be about like motor oil, but I was wrong. I bought my tb 2.5 months ago, so I have no idea when it was done last. I'm right under 130k miles. The thing I'm a little curious about, one of my 2 bottles of auto trak 2 was a much darker blue than the other. The first one looked more like mouthwash and the second one looked like liquid smurf. Same part number on the bottles. Should I be concerned?
I also crawled under the rear diff to check out the fill and drain plugs (woo hoo 2003). Fill plug appeared to be completely fused to the casing, but I managed to get it loose with some pb blaster. Also something I noticed is a lot of guys say to use a 3/8 extension to open it. I found that it was a lot more likely to wobble and help round out the hole. Its hard to keep it straight while applying the force needed to turn the plug. I was able to stick the ratchet head directly into the plug and it worked perfectly.
AC Delco spark plugs should be arriving later today, so I've got another project coming up.
I also crawled under the rear diff to check out the fill and drain plugs (woo hoo 2003). Fill plug appeared to be completely fused to the casing, but I managed to get it loose with some pb blaster. Also something I noticed is a lot of guys say to use a 3/8 extension to open it. I found that it was a lot more likely to wobble and help round out the hole. Its hard to keep it straight while applying the force needed to turn the plug. I was able to stick the ratchet head directly into the plug and it worked perfectly.
AC Delco spark plugs should be arriving later today, so I've got another project coming up.
KNBlazer said:
It broke loose just fine. I just didn't see the point of an extension if there is enough room to just stuff the ratchet in there.
On a side note, I diagnosed a problem on my s10 today as well. It will start and drive but is suffering from a P0300 random misfire code. Fuel pressure comes in at 60psi when it primes, but drops to 0 almost instantly when the priming stops. Looks like I'll be replacing a spider injector assembly. Leaking fuel in the intake might also explain why the exhaust fumes make me want to pass out.
qsp01
Member
- Aug 26, 2012
- 69
Finally replaced the midgate window regulator yesterday. Wasn't too bad and I took a few pictures which I can add later. I got the Dorman 741-072 from Amazon for $170. Note that it did not include the window position switch that was glued to the old regulator. I was able to change it without un-mounting the midgate and the process went rather smooth other than a couple of hiccups at the end. Here is the process; I will add some pictures later.
1. Remove the center screw on the midgate cover and the two screws securing the pull handle.
2. Starting at the bottom left side pull out to loosen the cover snaps and work around then disconnect the release button and allow the cover to lay on the floor
3. Remove the release button from the cover and plug back into the midgate connector
4. Remove the connector from the regulator motor and from the window position switch
5. Remove the screws that hold the window glass to the regulator.
6. Position a 4' 2x4 from the bottom of the midgate to the back of the folded up rear seats.
7. Release the midgate and allow it to rest on the 2x4
8. Remove the rubber from the window opening
9. Slide the window glass up and remove from the midgate - note that the curved surface faces inwards
10. Push the midgate back into the closed position
11. Remove the old regulator by unbolting the 5 bolts.
12. Remove window position switch from old regulator (mine was glued on and I used a razor knife to cut it free)
13. Glue the window position switch to the new regulator using J-B weld or other suitable glue and allow to cure (I used the Kwikweld / 20 minutes)
14. Install the new regulator into the mid-gate and reconnect the motor and switch connectors.
15. Release the midgate by pressing the release button while holding the glass position switch closed and lean midgate against the 2x4.
16. Slide the glass back in being careful to feed the glass into the side window channels with the curve facing the front ensuring that the mounting tabs align correctly with the regulator
17. Push the midgate back into the closed position.
18. Secure the glass to the regulator by reinstalling the bolts
18. Ensure that the window switch is closed when the window is down (mine wasn't and I had to remove the cover to correct it after I had already reinstalled the cover)
19. Test the operation of the window regulator leaving the window in the down position
20. Disconnect the midgate release button from the connector and reinstall into the midgate panel
21. Holding the midgate panel in position reconnect the release button connector and reinstall the panel by aligning the top edge and snapping in the clips.
22. Test the release button to ensure that the midgate will open
23. Reinstall the three screws and pull handle
24. Reinstall the rubber by releasing the midgate to rest on the 2/4 again. (I reinstalled the rubber before the panel and had to fuss with getting the rubber to lay on top of the panel so this sequence should work better)
Sit back and admire your work!
I believe that the regulator was replaced once before on this Envoy so I am not sure if the factory window position switch was originally glued to the regulator. The old regulator looked exactly like the new Dorman regulator. The failure mode was that one of the slides broke where the cable end was held in place allowing the cable pull loose which at that point when the previous owner activated the open / close switch the excess cable length tried to roll up into the motor / cable reel and made a real mess of the cable. The old one probably could have been fixed by replacing the cable and glueing the cable back into the slide. I guess if your midgate window drops down on its own do not activate the window switch. (I guess the same is probably true for any power window regulator).
The process took almost as long to write up as to do!
Doug
1. Remove the center screw on the midgate cover and the two screws securing the pull handle.
2. Starting at the bottom left side pull out to loosen the cover snaps and work around then disconnect the release button and allow the cover to lay on the floor
3. Remove the release button from the cover and plug back into the midgate connector
4. Remove the connector from the regulator motor and from the window position switch
5. Remove the screws that hold the window glass to the regulator.
6. Position a 4' 2x4 from the bottom of the midgate to the back of the folded up rear seats.
7. Release the midgate and allow it to rest on the 2x4
8. Remove the rubber from the window opening
9. Slide the window glass up and remove from the midgate - note that the curved surface faces inwards
10. Push the midgate back into the closed position
11. Remove the old regulator by unbolting the 5 bolts.
12. Remove window position switch from old regulator (mine was glued on and I used a razor knife to cut it free)
13. Glue the window position switch to the new regulator using J-B weld or other suitable glue and allow to cure (I used the Kwikweld / 20 minutes)
14. Install the new regulator into the mid-gate and reconnect the motor and switch connectors.
15. Release the midgate by pressing the release button while holding the glass position switch closed and lean midgate against the 2x4.
16. Slide the glass back in being careful to feed the glass into the side window channels with the curve facing the front ensuring that the mounting tabs align correctly with the regulator
17. Push the midgate back into the closed position.
18. Secure the glass to the regulator by reinstalling the bolts
18. Ensure that the window switch is closed when the window is down (mine wasn't and I had to remove the cover to correct it after I had already reinstalled the cover)
19. Test the operation of the window regulator leaving the window in the down position
20. Disconnect the midgate release button from the connector and reinstall into the midgate panel
21. Holding the midgate panel in position reconnect the release button connector and reinstall the panel by aligning the top edge and snapping in the clips.
22. Test the release button to ensure that the midgate will open
23. Reinstall the three screws and pull handle
24. Reinstall the rubber by releasing the midgate to rest on the 2/4 again. (I reinstalled the rubber before the panel and had to fuss with getting the rubber to lay on top of the panel so this sequence should work better)
Sit back and admire your work!
I believe that the regulator was replaced once before on this Envoy so I am not sure if the factory window position switch was originally glued to the regulator. The old regulator looked exactly like the new Dorman regulator. The failure mode was that one of the slides broke where the cable end was held in place allowing the cable pull loose which at that point when the previous owner activated the open / close switch the excess cable length tried to roll up into the motor / cable reel and made a real mess of the cable. The old one probably could have been fixed by replacing the cable and glueing the cable back into the slide. I guess if your midgate window drops down on its own do not activate the window switch. (I guess the same is probably true for any power window regulator).
The process took almost as long to write up as to do!
Doug
Midnyteryder196
Member
blazinlow89
Member
- Jan 25, 2012
- 2,088
Mark20
Member
- Dec 6, 2011
- 1,630
Mechanic was swamped all week but finally got link welded on drivers seat. Too late to install so I put it in the front hall for the night.
Of course one family member had to check it out.
View attachment 34122
Of course one family member had to check it out.
View attachment 34122
Attachments
Mark20
Member
- Dec 6, 2011
- 1,630
MAY03LT said:
Yes, front right of the seat. The link is already welded to the shaft at the factory. So any additional welding won't make things worse. The whole shaft rotates to move the links to adjust the seat front.
Edit:
Installed & verified front of seat is going up and down. Any additional welding to the shaft won't cause a problem. Just don't weld or jam the shaft to the frame.
I replaced spark plugs today. I don't think they had been done before because I found AC Delcos in there and I believe they were the platinum ones. Nothing looked too bad except the oil that had built up in about 4 of the holes. I'll have fun with the valve cover gasket soon enough.
Also, it appears something is wrong with my motor mount...
Also, it appears something is wrong with my motor mount...
Attachments
![CAM00582[1].jpg](/forums/data/attachments/118/118511-0ff036dba0e4ab1956d3f578bb8360ee.jpg)
blazinlow89
Member
- Jan 25, 2012
- 2,088
blazinlow89
Member
- Jan 25, 2012
- 2,088
mcsteven said:
Thank you, nope. I removed the moldings and left the Avalanche logo, thought it looked funny like that so I removed the Avalanche and just left the GM emblem.
Finally got around to installing my B-Day present from the wife. Upgraded my 2ohm Alpine sub to 4ohm and wiring it to 2ohm. I can tell a huge difference in bass over the 2ohm.
Most likely going to be looking to sell my Alpine SWR-10D2 sub (Less than 1yr old).
View attachment 34132
Most likely going to be looking to sell my Alpine SWR-10D2 sub (Less than 1yr old).
View attachment 34132
Attachments
Darkrider_LS
Member
- Jan 25, 2013
- 9,332
Had a tire fixed, washed and fueled it up. Noticed that the tire techs flipped my spare for me lol.
yodaddy4200
Member
- Feb 3, 2013
- 350
dmanns67 said:
Those look sick! How many watts rms? My Hifonics amp is supposed to be here today but its looking like Monday... Its gonna power two of these. There 600 watts rms. 12" squares
View attachment 34134
View attachment 34135
Their 4 ohm also.
Attachments
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