What did you do to your GMT today?

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Playsinsnow

Member
Nov 17, 2012
9,727
dmanns67 said:
I agree, having one wheel lock per wheel should be sufficient and hopefully deter any thief from trying to take your wheels off. I guess with the McGard, if you did buy (24) locking lugs you would end up with (6) different lug keys which would be a pain, not to mention the price.

Do you have any preference on locking lugs or is the McGards the only ones you have used? $20 is not bad compared to $50 for the Gorilla. Considering I have already spent $35 on the acorn lugs that I just bought. Do you happen to know the part # for the McGards you purchased?

Dmanns. Don't sweat the lug locks. Do you park anywhere sketchy or for days at end? Someone is stealing your truck before they take just the wheels :twocents:

Keep your acorns and post more pics. :thumbsup:

If someone wants your wheels, they're getting 'em.
 

dmanns67

Member
Apr 3, 2013
32,979
Ohio
Playsinsnow said:
Dmanns. Don't sweat the lug locks. Do you park anywhere sketchy or for days at end? Someone is stealing your truck before they take just the wheels :twocents:

Keep your acorns and post more pics. :thumbsup:

If someone wants your wheels, they're getting 'em.

I am not sweating it at all. Like I said before, I am good at work and home and around the town I live in. The only time I would think twice about my wheels being stolen is when I take trips to D.C., but my TB is usually on the Naval base there overnight.

I think $20 for (4) locking lugs would not be a bad idea to protect the investment.

You have a good point, the vehicle would probably be stolen before the wheels. I did find some Gorilla wheel locks on Amazon.com for $16 and McGard for $20. Need to figure out which ones I will get.

Edit: According to McGard, "The computer generated key designs allow for an unlimited number of key patterns." Looks like I will go with McGard then.
 

HARDTRAILZ

Moderator
Nov 18, 2011
49,665
Ghoster said:
New bedslide was delivered today, that is one heavy damn thing. It took a while but I got the "under rail" bed liner out of the truck.Kinda pissed me off. I bought the truck on the showroom floor. Its had a bed cover on it the whole time. It lives in a garage! and it was filthy under that liner. No way that much nastiness got under the bed cover and under the liner. So tomorrow I will be cleaning the bed up in preparation to install the bedslide.

They do collect nastiness even from new. My dads did and it had 20 miles on it w factory liner when he got it. They are rust n grime magnets. I would only do a sprayon liner.

MAY03LT said:
I'm a little late to the party but Gorilla sells a 24 pack. Part number 71634N is our size 12mm X 1.50. They only give you one key though, it's $8.50 for a spare.

Many w spacers or adaptors could have 1.5x14. If you run those...double check.

Playsinsnow said:
Dmanns. Don't sweat the lug locks. Do you park anywhere sketchy or for days at end? Someone is stealing your truck before they take just the wheels :twocents:

Keep your acorns and post more pics. :thumbsup:

If someone wants your wheels, they're getting 'em.

I disagree. Wheels are easy. Easy to steal and far easier for thief to flip.

Locks are cheap and worthwhile.
 

dmanns67

Member
Apr 3, 2013
32,979
Ohio
HARDTRAILZ said:
disagree. Wheels are easy. Easy to steal and far easier for thief to flip.

Locks are cheap and worthwhile.

What wheels locks are you running or have ran? Any preference?
 

HARDTRAILZ

Moderator
Nov 18, 2011
49,665
I have a few sets. Gorilla, Mcsomething. Splined lugs.

If you just toss a splined one on with the acorns, it at least screws w a thief a bit.

It depends on what wheels I am running. My new ones only fit splined lugs n I have not bought a set of locks to fit in the holes. I did get oddball splines though and an extra key.
 

dmanns67

Member
Apr 3, 2013
32,979
Ohio
Yeah I have used splined myself. McGard claims their computer technology allows them to manufacture an unlimited an unlimited amount of key configurations. Not bad for $20. I will have to double check the diameter and make sure they will fit.
 

HARDTRAILZ

Moderator
Nov 18, 2011
49,665
You can always hammer a socket on as a master key....:wink:
 

MAY03LT

Original poster
Member
Nov 18, 2011
3,431
Delmarva
mcsteven said:
a kid who wants the wheels won't be able to get them off

Yep - some punks tried to get the wheels off of my honda a few years ago. I don't know what they were doing when they tried to get the locks off, but they jostled the car enough to set off the alarm and they bolted. I think they was mad lol.

dmanns67 said:
Are you currently using a set of the Gorilla lugs?

I used them when I had SS wheels on my TB. I was in the same boat - the OEM lugs were copper colored open ended so I knew I had to get 24 lugs anyway. The lock socket does look on the thin side, but I had the wheels on and off a few times using an impact and they were fine. And yeah, the key is 21mm.

This is how they looked on the truck

 

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mcsteven

Member
Apr 18, 2012
6,584
I only have experience with the McGard.

I have stock Envoy wheels, so I'm using the open ended locks. You'd want the acorn style. Black is their part # 24026. Chrome, if you pull the dip off, is # 24137.

I bought mine from dpaccessories on eBay. Same as the brand of locks, I don't mention because they are better but because I have had a good experience. Both the eBay site and McGard.com will show an application guide.


dmanns67 said:
I agree, having one wheel lock per wheel should be sufficient and hopefully deter any thief from trying to take your wheels off. I guess with the McGard, if you did buy (24) locking lugs you would end up with (6) different lug keys which would be a pain, not to mention the price.

Do you have any preference on locking lugs or is the McGards the only ones you have used? $20 is not bad compared to $50 for the Gorilla. Considering I have already spent $35 on the acorn lugs that I just bought. Do you happen to know the part # for the McGards you purchased?
 

HARDTRAILZ

Moderator
Nov 18, 2011
49,665
ConeKilrAutoX said:
Back to the drawing board lol. it runs but like $hit! needs back pressure badly!

Duct tape the exhaust partially closed???
 

ConeKilrAutoX

Member
Dec 8, 2011
1,179
HARDTRAILZ said:
Duct tape the exhaust partially closed???

haha I know right? its noticeably quite unresponsive to the throttle idle-reving. Once above 2500 rpm its better but I will throw a muffler on there to try and fix that issue. any suggestions for deeper sounding mufflers?
 

Sparky

Member
Dec 4, 2011
12,927
I got a set of the Gorilla lugs for my Camaro. They look nice, every single one is a locking lug also, didn't cost an arm and a leg. Should be good.

ConeKilrAutoX said:
Back to the drawing board lol. it runs but like $hit! needs back pressure badly!

Actually no it doesn't :wink:

A few things come into play with exhaust.

One is exhaust velocity, the other is back pressure, and they tend to get mixed up.

If you have too small a pipe, the velocity stays up (so it runs fine) but you get back pressure that robs power. If you have too large a pipe, you no longer lose power to back pressure, but exhaust velocity drops too far and the exhaust "tumbles" in the pipe, making it run badly and also loses power/torque.

In an ideal situation, the pipe would increase in size as the engine RPM increased, but that won't ever happen. So you usually find a happy medium where at high RPM you get some back pressure but at low RPM the velocity is still high enough to make it run OK.
 

HARDTRAILZ

Moderator
Nov 18, 2011
49,665
ConeKilrAutoX said:
haha I know right? its noticeably quite unresponsive to the throttle idle-reving. Once above 2500 rpm its better but I will throw a muffler on there to try and fix that issue. any suggestions for deeper sounding mufflers?

Hooker Aerochamber
 

Darkrider_LS

Member
Jan 25, 2013
9,332
Envoy_04 said:
Stripped a stinking battery bolt today when I had the battery unhooked. It unscrewed fine, but felt funny, and when I went to put it back I noticed the threads were completely gone. :hissyfit: I guess it was too tight before and the threads pulled, and I noticed it when I took it out today, it's odd because I figured for sure the threads would pull on the battery itself before the factory bolt gave, but I guess not since the battery threads are just fine. The silver lining was that a stop by the auto parts store and $2.50 later I had a two pack of them in my possession, and I can now say that I've fixed a GM side post battery bolt

Would have been a great time to do the 3/8" bolt mod
 

Mark20

Member
Dec 6, 2011
1,630
My Voy came with GM wheel locks (don't know if the dealer or GM actually threw them on) but they are McGard locks just in a different package. Same registration card. I put McGard locks on the Silverado.
 

rcam81

Member
Dec 3, 2011
209
Onsted, MI
Replaced the left front hub. Totally trashed at 80K miles. It took less than 1.5 hours to do.

View attachment 33924
 

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Boricua SS

Member
Nov 20, 2011
3,080
Ohio
I received the final piece to my clear corner mod. I ordered a different set of 194 LEDs with better light output to replace the ones I originally had in there since the new clear lens dont really have reflectors in them...

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They have 7 LEDs firing forward, 2 firing backward and then 4 firing to the sided giving me a 360* light ouput. I love how the contacts pads are thick too instead of those tiny wire ones you get with other LEDs. so I dont have to bend the wires to make the lights work :rotfl:
 

Blckshdw

Moderator
Nov 20, 2011
10,779
Tampa Bay Area, FL
Boricua SS said:
I received the final piece to my clear corner mod. I ordered a different set of 194 LEDs with better light output to replace the ones I originally had in there since the new clear lens dont really have reflectors in them...

They have 7 LEDs firing forward, 2 firing backward and then 4 firing to the sided giving me a 360* light ouput. I love how the contacts pads are thick too instead of those tiny wire ones you get with other LEDs. so I dont have to bend the wires to make the lights work :rotfl:

It's a little late, but if I knew you were gonna try a bulb like that, I woulda suggested lining your clear corner lens holder with aluminum tape, so you can make use of those side/rear firing LEDs. Since the holder is gray, the non forward firing ones are pretty useless.


As for me, I finally got around to getting that snapped PCM bolt out of the connector. Now just have to find a substitute. :yes:

20140404_183134_zpskypphc5x.jpg
 

fr34kout

Member
Jan 6, 2012
662
ConeKilrAutoX said:
haha I know right? its noticeably quite unresponsive to the throttle idle-reving. Once above 2500 rpm its better but I will throw a muffler on there to try and fix that issue. any suggestions for deeper sounding mufflers?

Spintech all the way
 

HARDTRAILZ

Moderator
Nov 18, 2011
49,665
Got parts ready for install tomorrow!
 

Blckshdw

Moderator
Nov 20, 2011
10,779
Tampa Bay Area, FL
kjkim93 said:
Put my switchbacks on again. Would 50 watt bulbs be too high?

Most HIDs are only 35W, why would you need park/turns drawing THAT much power?
 

kjkim93

Member
Jan 1, 2012
696
Blckshdw said:
Most HIDs are only 35W, why would you need park/turns drawing THAT much power?

True. Sometimes I think the switchbacks aren't bright enough. That might be due to not having enough LEDs lol
 

Blckshdw

Moderator
Nov 20, 2011
10,779
Tampa Bay Area, FL
kjkim93 said:
True. Sometimes I think the switchbacks aren't bright enough. That might be due to not having enough LEDs lol

What kind do you have? The 60-60's I got from Autolumination were plenty bright. The strips I'm using from iJDMToy now are nice and bright too.
 

kjkim93

Member
Jan 1, 2012
696
Blckshdw said:
What kind do you have? The 60-60's I got from Autolumination were plenty bright. The strips I'm using from iJDMToy now are nice and bright too.

I had a pair from ijdmtoy also. Right now I'm using eBay ones that have samsung LEDs lol. I just like having my lights bright
 

Envoy_04

Member
Jul 1, 2013
749
Final piece of the LED puzzle (for a while anyhow) went in today. CREE fogs FTW!

View attachment 33930

Had to have it jacked up slightly so I could fit my fat butt under there to get them in. :rotfl:

EDIT: Darkrider, I thought about modding, but for $2.50 and the convenience and necessity of quickness, I went with direct replacements on the bolts.
 

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kjkim93

Member
Jan 1, 2012
696
Envoy_04 said:
Final piece of the LED puzzle (for a while anyhow) went in today. CREE fogs FTW!

View attachment 21543

Had to have it jacked up slightly so I could fit my fat butt under there to get them in. :rotfl:

EDIT: Darkrider, I thought about modding, but for $2.50 and the convenience and necessity of quickness, I went with direct replacements on the bolts.

I have them on my trailblazer too! I remember on the high way my lows went out. And with the Crees on I didn't notice until I was behind a white car
 

mcsteven

Member
Apr 18, 2012
6,584
oh05ext said:
Not today but did this 2 weeks ago. traded a 1960 dart seneca for a 1959 belair.

Off topic

I see this truck and really wished I had been able to find a XL version. I like my Envoy, but would love a little more room. It gets slept in from time to time when we go out and about (heck, got all the fixings in the truck for two people to camp in it). And I like the extra cargo room if I were to pull the third seat.

My apologies for hijacking.

/Off topic
 

HARDTRAILZ

Moderator
Nov 18, 2011
49,665
Planning on some fluid swapping and new upper control arms. Some rust fixing if weather is warm enough to use chassis saver
 

CarbEnvoy

Member
Sep 29, 2012
38
Switched from winter tires and wheels (stock 17" polished aluminum that I painted a dark gray metallic, with 245/65/R17 studded tires) to my summer tires. LT245/70/R17 Firestone Transforce A/T on the stock polished aluminum wheels.

Measured sway bar to order new bushings. I have the 1.80" bar.
 

smt 59

Member
Installed gas hood shocks from Redline Tuning, should have done this years ago, replaced headlights with high intensity white lights, and removed the bug deflector as all the mounts were broken but one and it is just to faded after 9 years.
View attachment 33949
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KNBlazer

Member
Feb 8, 2012
811
smt 59 said:
Installed gas hood shocks from Redline Tuning, should have done this years ago, replaced headlights with high intensity white lights, and removed the bug deflector as all the mounts were broken but one and it is just to faded after 9 years.

How did you secure them, with bolts or rivets? Do you have any links?
 

fr34kout

Member
Jan 6, 2012
662
KNBlazer said:
How did you secure them, with bolts or rivets? Do you have any links?

They provide brackets and rivets. You just have to drill a few small holes into the side of the hood and the rail of the fenders and the brackets rivet into place.
 

dmanns67

Member
Apr 3, 2013
32,979
Ohio
KNBlazer said:
How did you secure them, with bolts or rivets? Do you have any links?

The kit comes with very detailed directions and breaks down what you need. They also have a method for lining up the brackets. You will need to buy a rivet gun, unless you already have one. I picked up one from Lowe's for $18.

They also have the instructions on their website as well.

http://www.redlinetuning.com

Never had a CEL for a failing t-stat, but based on my TorquePro coolant temp readings and feedback from this site, I figured running at 180º-183º while driving was too low.

Replaced the t-stat and went for a drive. Now the temp stays at a constant 195º while driving and my temp gauge no longer drops down halfway when getting on the accelerator.

Also ordered a set of 4 locking lug nuts.
 
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