What did you do to your GMT today?

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Envoy_04

Member
Jul 1, 2013
749
dmanns67 said:
The kit comes with very detailed directions and breaks down what you need. They also have a method for lining up the brackets. You will need to buy a rivet gun, unless you already have one. I picked up one from Lowe's for $18.

They also have the instructions on their website as well.

Redline Tuning - Hood Support, hood lift, gas springs, hood strut, hood struts, bonnet, bonet, hood lifters, hood damper, prop rod, hood lift, QuickLIFT, Quick LIFT system designed to lift and hold your hood.

Never had a CEL for a failing t-stat, but based on my TorquePro coolant temp readings and feedback from this site, I figured running at 180º-183º while driving was too low.

Replaced the t-stat and went for a drive. Now the temp stays at a constant 195º while driving and my temp gauge no longer drops down halfway when getting on the accelerator.

Also ordered a set of 4 locking lug nuts.

When my tstat failed, I got a code, but Mom's started to fail the other day just like yours, no codes but running too cold. I had a friend who is a GM mechanic put it in (I was at school) and now it runs at a much more acceptable temp. :yes:
 

smt 59

Member
Envoy_04 said:
When my tstat failed, I got a code, but Mom's started to fail the other day just like yours, no codes but running too cold. I had a friend who is a GM mechanic put it in (I was at school) and now it runs at a much more acceptable temp. :yes:

My stat failed 3 years ago on the highway with a loud bang and turned on the engine light immediately follow with a call from on-star to get to the dealer asap. Was still under warranty.
 

dmanns67

Member
Apr 3, 2013
32,979
Ohio
smt 59 said:
Anybody need a prop rod? Tomato season is. Coming up. :smile:

I have a spare as well :thumbsup:

Envoy_04 said:
When my tstat failed, I got a code, but Mom's started to fail the other day just like yours, no codes but running too cold. I had a friend who is a GM mechanic put it in (I was at school) and now it runs at a much more acceptable temp. :yes:

My career is preventive/predictive maintenance on machinery so might as well translate that into vehicle maintenance. Thanks to this amazing community and their expertise, it makes the process easier.

I did notice my TB warms up quicker and the air blows warmer out of the vents. Did you/your mom notice the same?
 

gpking

Member
Dec 27, 2013
534
Berkeley Springs, WV
Spent about 7 hours installing a set of LED "fog" lights.

The entire mod consisted of me doing the DRL killer (took about 10 minutes), then the rest of the time (minus an hour for lunch) mounting the lights/switch and wiring it all.
Wiring everything was a piece of cake, just time consuming, but installing the switch took forever.

I opted to install it in the stock location (the light controller is cheap if I were to eff it up, as opposed to the dash).
Fortunately, no circuit board is behind the "blank" piece of plastic, however you can only open the back panel about 1/2" to reach inside, making it painful/impossible to maneuver wires inside.
I managed to screw up the dome override switch (I have no idea how it goes back together) so it is jammed now, but everything else still works as intended. :thumbsup:

c6457b2e18dbd8cb8dfa8b71eb6e1266.jpg




As usual, I blew a fuse while working and now I can't find any mini 10A fuses, so I'll have to wait until tomorrow to see if the new lights work and get some pics.
 

Envoy_04

Member
Jul 1, 2013
749
dmanns67 said:
I have a spare as well :thumbsup:



My career is preventive/predictive maintenance on machinery so might as well translate that into vehicle maintenance. Thanks to this amazing community and their expertise, it makes the process easier.

I did notice my TB warms up quicker and the air blows warmer out of the vents. Did you/your mom notice the same?

Yep, especially on mine since the tstat failed fully open.
 

IllogicTC

Member
Dec 30, 2013
3,452
gpking said:
As usual, I blew a fuse while working and now I can't find any mini 10A fuses, so I'll have to wait until tomorrow to see if the new lights work and get some pics.

I'll give you a pro-tip: When working on anything electrical in the truck, you're best off disconnecting the battery. If that isn't really an option (if you're worried about the HVAC or something), pull all related fuses to your work before beginning.
 

KNBlazer

Member
Feb 8, 2012
811
IllogicTC said:
I'll give you a pro-tip: When working on anything electrical in the truck, you're best off disconnecting the battery. If that isn't really an option (if you're worried about the HVAC or something), pull all related fuses to your work before beginning.

Did that earlier, disconnected neg batt to repair HID harness ...
 

fr34kout

Member
Jan 6, 2012
662
jsheahawk said:
Only $70? I'll have to get those eventually. I think I'd paint the stock hardware black though. I'll use some bake on paint while the wife is away. :thumbsup:

Jared

I bought the PLUS edition which came with black powder coated brackets, rivets, and the body of the shock itself. Extra $15 and it looks great
 

Envoy_04

Member
Jul 1, 2013
749
Found the elusive steering column rattle in my Envoy today, looks like it's inside the column itself, most likely coming from the bushings or lower mast bearing. I have a good friend who is a mechanic at a GM dealership, and he works on cars from his home on the side. I had him drive and feel it and we both got it narrowed down to that. I'm gonna live with it until it gets worse, I really don't want to get into replacing the whole column right now, especially as it isn't a safety issue and it's more of an annoyance than anything...
 

Blckshdw

Moderator
Nov 20, 2011
10,779
Tampa Bay Area, FL
gpking said:
I managed to screw up the dome override switch (I have no idea how it goes back together) so it is jammed now

I manage to do this EVERY time I open my headlight switch box. It pisses me off to no end, the spring pops off the post of the button, or the little guide slots on the button aren't lined up with the grooves in the base. Always takes me an extra 10 minutes fiddling with it just to get that button back where it's supposed to be. :hissyfit:

TexazReece said:
Sorry for the amount of pics :biggrin:

:no: Never apologize for this... :biggrin:
 

Blckshdw

Moderator
Nov 20, 2011
10,779
Tampa Bay Area, FL
Envoy_04 said:
With your mod bug that's what, once or twice every couple weeks? :raspberry:

If there was more to that headlight switch, that would probably be accurate. Had to do it the first time I modded it, a second time when one of my LEDs went out, and then a third time when someone asked me a question about the guts that I couldn't remember, so I popped it open again. :banghead:
 

djthumper

Administrator
Nov 20, 2011
14,956
North Las Vegas
Blckshdw said:
If there was more to that headlight switch, that would probably be accurate. Had to do it the first time I modded it, a second time when one of my LEDs went out, and then a third time when someone asked me a question about the guts that I couldn't remember, so I popped it open again. :banghead:

You need a spare. :wink:
 

djthumper

Administrator
Nov 20, 2011
14,956
North Las Vegas
Blckshdw said:
:no: I just need to tell people to dive in and figure it out, that's how I learned! :dunce:

And now you are the professor... :raspberry:
 

HARDTRAILZ

Moderator
Nov 18, 2011
49,665
Redlines ....nope not for me.


New upper control arms...should have done awhile ago
 

blazinlow89

Member
Jan 25, 2012
2,088
gpking said:
Fortunately, no circuit board is behind the "blank" piece of plastic, however you can only open the back panel about 1/2" to reach inside, making it painful/impossible to maneuver wires inside.
I managed to screw up the dome override switch (I have no idea how it goes back together) so it is jammed now, but everything else still works as intended. :thumbsup:.

You can rotate the back cover and get more room to work. After so many attempts you will get used to putting it back together.

IllogicTC said:
I'll give you a pro-tip: When working on anything electrical in the truck, you're best off disconnecting the battery. If that isn't really an option (if you're worried about the HVAC or something), pull all related fuses to your work before beginning.

Where is your sense of adventure?
 

gpking

Member
Dec 27, 2013
534
Berkeley Springs, WV
blazinlow89 said:
You can rotate the back cover and get more room to work. After so many attempts you will get used to putting it back together.
I just hinged it open like a door and was able to slide my hand in at an angle. I didn't want to tweak on the wires too much. The last thing I need is a little wire to come un-soldiered. :no:

I don't use the button all that much, so it's going to stay jammed until I'm motivated to tear apart the whole dash just to work on it. :tongue:

IllogicTC said:
I'll give you a pro-tip: When working on anything electrical in the truck, you're best off disconnecting the battery. If that isn't really an option (if you're worried about the HVAC or something), pull all related fuses to your work before beginning.
Well you see...
I didn't need to unhook the battery since I was just roughing-in the wiring, but stupid me put the fuse in the wrong slot of the add-a-circuit, so my wiring was hot while I was working on it.
I always pull fuses as opposed to unhooking the battery, but this time I screwed up. :crazy:
 

Playsinsnow

Member
Nov 17, 2012
9,727
blazinlow89 said:
Where is your sense of adventure?



This made my morning. :rotfl:









:crazy:
 

Blckshdw

Moderator
Nov 20, 2011
10,779
Tampa Bay Area, FL
gpking said:
I don't use the button all that much, so it's going to stay jammed until I'm motivated to tear apart the whole dash just to work on it. :tongue:

Small piece of advice, when you need to work on the headlight switch alone, no need to remove that dash panel. Get a thin, bladed, tool, and pry off the endcap that is between the door and the dash. That way you can reach in from the side, pinch the clips on the headlight switch module, release it inside the dash and pull it out from the side. Much easier than fiddling with that big ol' dash panel. :yes:
 

Sparky

Member
Dec 4, 2011
12,927
Blckshdw said:
Small piece of advice, when you need to work on the headlight switch alone, no need to remove that dash panel. Get a thin, bladed, tool, and pry off the endcap that is between the door and the dash. That way you can reach in from the side, pinch the clips on the headlight switch module, release it inside the dash and pull it out from the side. Much easier than fiddling with that big ol' dash panel. :yes:

Oh this is excellent advice. I didn't think of doing that.
 

Blckshdw

Moderator
Nov 20, 2011
10,779
Tampa Bay Area, FL
Took me a while to figure that out. Wasn't until I decided to do the power folding mirrors, and saw the guys on the OS pop that panel off to mount their control module :lightbulb: :duh:

Didn't know why I didn't think of it sooner, but better late than never right?
 

Envoy_04

Member
Jul 1, 2013
749
Blckshdw said:
Took me a while to figure that out. Wasn't until I decided to do the power folding mirrors, and saw the guys on the OS pop that panel off to mount their control module :lightbulb: :duh:

Didn't know why I didn't think of it sooner, but better late than never right?

I can always count on you guys to make me even more glad I have an Envoy. Removal of that particular switch is so much easier on one. :biggrin:
 

rcam81

Member
Dec 3, 2011
209
Onsted, MI
dmanns67 said:
The kit comes with very detailed directions and breaks down what you need. They also have a method for lining up the brackets. You will need to buy a rivet gun, unless you already have one. I picked up one from Lowe's for $18.

They also have the instructions on their website as well.

Redline Tuning - Hood Support, hood lift, gas springs, hood strut, hood struts, bonnet, bonet, hood lifters, hood damper, prop rod, hood lift, QuickLIFT, Quick LIFT system designed to lift and hold your hood.

I have had a set of these on both of my TB's. (03 and 07). The video is from the install on my 03. Whenever I take it to the dealership, the mechanics always comment on them. Another example of GM's cheapness!!!!!!
 

gpking

Member
Dec 27, 2013
534
Berkeley Springs, WV
Blckshdw said:
Small piece of advice, when you need to work on the headlight switch alone, no need to remove that dash panel. Get a thin, bladed, tool, and pry off the endcap that is between the door and the dash. That way you can reach in from the side, pinch the clips on the headlight switch module, release it inside the dash and pull it out from the side. Much easier than fiddling with that big ol' dash panel. :yes:
You sir are a miracle worker.
 

Boricua SS

Member
Nov 20, 2011
3,080
Ohio
Well, I finally finished my clear corner mod and installed my headlights. I'm proud to report, that after an extensive 2 hour car wash and the lights getting blasted with water, there are no leaks and no condensaton! :wootwoot:

Also, everyone knows my debacle with the dealership and all my motor troubles (all 4 motors worth lol). When the last mechanic installed everything, he didnt know where anything went (he was a new hire at the time of my my final motor swap and the dealership fired the mechanic that took apart my truck) so my big 3 was thrown away, my aftermarket gm battery post terminals were thrown away (or stolen by the other tech) and just a bunch of other odds and ends. So I went and saw my best friend, Glen (ghenny440) who is the lead tech installer at B's Car Stereo and purchased 15' of 4awg knukonceptz wire, 2 new gm battery post terminals, and the associated end ring terminals. So I got started redoing my big 3 as well and making the beaSSt whole again.

20140405_151141_zpsnglncjl5.jpg

20140405_173400_zpsiays9j12.jpg


Waiting to go in...
20140405_152703_zpsbazjrzs4.jpg


And they're in...
20140405_173334_zpsvpye7mxx.jpg


Can you tell where I cut them open?
20140405_173341_zpskldnvxph.jpg


Installed my new switchbacks since my old ones took a crap on me.
20140405_194449_zps4tow2u4a.jpg


And my favorite... the night shot. (Those 194's light up pretty good Carlton :raspberry:)
20140405_205520_zpsmma1e30i.jpg


Again, overall this is a very gratifying mod. But I will NEVER do this again :rotfl: The difficulty was rather easy, but it's definitely time consuming, can be frustursting at times, and just nerve racking since you're hoping they dont condensate after you seal them up. A special thank you to Carlton for all his help before I started this mod and an honorable mention to Jeff (jrSS) and Glen (ghenny440) for all your support and ideas.
 

HARDTRAILZ

Moderator
Nov 18, 2011
49,665
Whew... today I found my truck. Was not sure it made it home last night. :wink:
 
Dec 13, 2013
1,490
Osceola,Ia
Boricua SS said:
Well, I finally finished my clear corner mod and installed my headlights. I'm proud to report, that after an extensive 2 hour car wash and the lights getting blasted with water, there are no leaks and no condensaton! :wootwoot:

Also, everyone knows my debacle with the dealership and all my motor troubles (all 4 motors worth lol). When the last mechanic installed everything, he didnt know where anything went (he was a new hire at the time of my my final motor swap and the dealership fired the mechanic that took apart my truck) so my big 3 was thrown away, my aftermarket gm battery post terminals were thrown away (or stolen by the other tech) and just a bunch of other odds and ends. So I went and saw my best friend, Glen (ghenny440) who is the lead tech installer at B's Car Stereo and purchased 15' of 4awg knukonceptz wire, 2 new gm battery post terminals, and the associated end ring terminals. So I got started redoing my big 3 as well and making the beaSSt whole again.

20140405_151141_zpsnglncjl5.jpg

20140405_173400_zpsiays9j12.jpg


Waiting to go in...
20140405_152703_zpsbazjrzs4.jpg


And they're in...
20140405_173334_zpsvpye7mxx.jpg


Can you tell where I cut them open?
20140405_173341_zpskldnvxph.jpg


Installed my new switchbacks since my old ones took a crap on me.
20140405_194449_zps4tow2u4a.jpg


And my favorite... the night shot. (Those 194's light up pretty good Carlton :raspberry:)
20140405_205520_zpsmma1e30i.jpg


Again, overall this is a very gratifying mod. But I will NEVER do this again :rotfl: The difficulty was rather easy, but it's definitely time consuming, can be frustursting at times, and just nerve racking since you're hoping they dont condensate after you seal them up. A special thank you to Carlton for all his help before I started this mod and an honorable mention to Jeff (jrSS) and Glen (ghenny440) for all your support and ideas.

Those clear corners look really good!
 

Boricua SS

Member
Nov 20, 2011
3,080
Ohio
Thx Mid... Im trying to work up the courage to complete my interior led conversion. Ive had everything but my gauge cluster done now for 2 years. Something about that cluster scares the shit outta me lol. Ive seen your progress and transformation in the LED mod thread. Kudos to you!
 
Dec 13, 2013
1,490
Osceola,Ia
Boricua SS said:
Thx Mid... Im trying to work up the courage to complete my interior led conversion. Ive had everything but my gauge cluster done now for 2 years. Something about that cluster scares the shit outta me lol. Ive seen your progress and transformation in the LED mod thread. Kudos to you!

Haha thanks! The cluster was actually almost the easiest one to do, except for when i initially pulled the needles off 2 of them pulled the metal pin outta the stepper,:hissyfit: so had to order steppers too.

Im actually trying to work up the courage to do the clear corner mod, and thought bout painting the bezel while im in there.. i just dont wanna mess up my only set of lights.. :undecided:

Gotta get these rocker covers done first before i start on anything else exterior though.. I might hit you and carlton up for some advice when i decide to tear into the lights. :biggrin:
 

Blckshdw

Moderator
Nov 20, 2011
10,779
Tampa Bay Area, FL
gpking said:
You sir are a miracle worker.

I wish that was the case, but I appreciate the words. :thankyou:

Boricua SS said:
Well, I finally finished my clear corner mod and installed my headlights. I'm proud to report, that after an extensive 2 hour car wash and the lights getting blasted with water, there are no leaks and no condensaton! :wootwoot:

Also, everyone knows my debacle with the dealership and all my motor troubles (all 4 motors worth lol). When the last mechanic installed everything, he didnt know where anything went (he was a new hire at the time of my my final motor swap and the dealership fired the mechanic that took apart my truck) so my big 3 was thrown away, my aftermarket gm battery post terminals were thrown away (or stolen by the other tech) and just a bunch of other odds and ends. So I went and saw my best friend, Glen (ghenny440) who is the lead tech installer at B's Car Stereo and purchased 15' of 4awg knukonceptz wire, 2 new gm battery post terminals, and the associated end ring terminals. So I got started redoing my big 3 as well and making the beaSSt whole again.

And my favorite... the night shot. (Those 194's light up pretty good Carlton :raspberry:)
20140405_205520_zpsmma1e30i.jpg


Again, overall this is a very gratifying mod. But I will NEVER do this again :rotfl: The difficulty was rather easy, but it's definitely time consuming, can be frustursting at times, and just nerve racking since you're hoping they dont condensate after you seal them up. A special thank you to Carlton for all his help before I started this mod and an honorable mention to Jeff (jrSS) and Glen (ghenny440) for all your support and ideas.

Glad to hear the new lights are working, and you've got no leaks. Those corners are pretty bright, but you did have a lot of forward firing LEDs, so no that's a good reference for anyone else putting LEDs in their corners as well :yes:

As for the wiring stuff, I would be pretty pissed if someone stole/threw away one of my mods. Hopefully the only times you'll have to mess with stuff under the hood anymore, is when you go to add all your go-fast parts to it.
wish.gif
 

Boricua SS

Member
Nov 20, 2011
3,080
Ohio
Blckshdw said:
Glad to hear the new lights are working, and you've got no leaks. Those corners are pretty bright, but you did have a lot of forward firing LEDs, so no that's a good reference for anyone else putting LEDs in their corners as well :yes:

As for the wiring stuff, I would be pretty pissed if someone stole/threw away one of my mods. Hopefully the only times you'll have to mess with stuff under the hood anymore, is when you go to add all your go-fast parts to it.
wish.gif

Oh I was pissed, but once I learned that it was a new guy putting everything back together, I just couldnt be pissed at him. Im working out a deal with the dealership since they have a new service manager now too. It's looking like I'll get free labor on installing my ac compressor but I'll have to buy all the parts. I'll take that deal since the labor costs morr then the parts.
 

kjkim93

Member
Jan 1, 2012
696
Boricua SS said:
Well, I finally finished my clear corner mod and installed my headlights. I'm proud to report, that after an extensive 2 hour car wash and the lights getting blasted with water, there are no leaks and no condensaton! :wootwoot:



Installed my new switchbacks since my old ones took a crap on me.
http://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j298/boricua8194/20140405_194449_zps4tow2u4a.jpg[ [/QUOTE]

What switchbacks did you get?
 
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