smt 59
Member
dmanns67 said:The kit comes with very detailed directions and breaks down what you need. They also have a method for lining up the brackets. You will need to buy a rivet gun, unless you already have one. I picked up one from Lowe's for $18.
They also have the instructions on their website as well.
Redline Tuning - Hood Support, hood lift, gas springs, hood strut, hood struts, bonnet, bonet, hood lifters, hood damper, prop rod, hood lift, QuickLIFT, Quick LIFT system designed to lift and hold your hood.
Never had a CEL for a failing t-stat, but based on my TorquePro coolant temp readings and feedback from this site, I figured running at 180º-183º while driving was too low.
Replaced the t-stat and went for a drive. Now the temp stays at a constant 195º while driving and my temp gauge no longer drops down halfway when getting on the accelerator.
Also ordered a set of 4 locking lug nuts.
Envoy_04 said:When my tstat failed, I got a code, but Mom's started to fail the other day just like yours, no codes but running too cold. I had a friend who is a GM mechanic put it in (I was at school) and now it runs at a much more acceptable temp.
smt 59 said:Anybody need a prop rod? Tomato season is. Coming up.
Envoy_04 said:When my tstat failed, I got a code, but Mom's started to fail the other day just like yours, no codes but running too cold. I had a friend who is a GM mechanic put it in (I was at school) and now it runs at a much more acceptable temp.
dmanns67 said:I have a spare as well
My career is preventive/predictive maintenance on machinery so might as well translate that into vehicle maintenance. Thanks to this amazing community and their expertise, it makes the process easier.
I did notice my TB warms up quicker and the air blows warmer out of the vents. Did you/your mom notice the same?
gpking said:As usual, I blew a fuse while working and now I can't find any mini 10A fuses, so I'll have to wait until tomorrow to see if the new lights work and get some pics.
IllogicTC said:I'll give you a pro-tip: When working on anything electrical in the truck, you're best off disconnecting the battery. If that isn't really an option (if you're worried about the HVAC or something), pull all related fuses to your work before beginning.
Only $70? I'll have to get those eventually. I think I'd paint the stock hardware black though. I'll use some bake on paint while the wife is away.Blckshdw said:
jsheahawk said:Only $70? I'll have to get those eventually. I think I'd paint the stock hardware black though. I'll use some bake on paint while the wife is away.
Jared
gpking said:I managed to screw up the dome override switch (I have no idea how it goes back together) so it is jammed now
TexazReece said:Sorry for the amount of pics
TexazReece said:Sorry for the amount of pics
Blckshdw said:I manage to do this EVERY time I open my headlight switch box...
Envoy_04 said:With your mod bug that's what, once or twice every couple weeks?
Blckshdw said:If there was more to that headlight switch, that would probably be accurate. Had to do it the first time I modded it, a second time when one of my LEDs went out, and then a third time when someone asked me a question about the guts that I couldn't remember, so I popped it open again. :banghead:
djthumper said:You need a spare.
Blckshdw said:I just need to tell people to dive in and figure it out, that's how I learned!
A compelling reason? The rod works well enough?HARDTRAILZ said:Redlines ....nope not for me.
gpking said:Fortunately, no circuit board is behind the "blank" piece of plastic, however you can only open the back panel about 1/2" to reach inside, making it painful/impossible to maneuver wires inside.
I managed to screw up the dome override switch (I have no idea how it goes back together) so it is jammed now, but everything else still works as intended. .
IllogicTC said:I'll give you a pro-tip: When working on anything electrical in the truck, you're best off disconnecting the battery. If that isn't really an option (if you're worried about the HVAC or something), pull all related fuses to your work before beginning.
I just hinged it open like a door and was able to slide my hand in at an angle. I didn't want to tweak on the wires too much. The last thing I need is a little wire to come un-soldiered.blazinlow89 said:You can rotate the back cover and get more room to work. After so many attempts you will get used to putting it back together.
Well you see...IllogicTC said:I'll give you a pro-tip: When working on anything electrical in the truck, you're best off disconnecting the battery. If that isn't really an option (if you're worried about the HVAC or something), pull all related fuses to your work before beginning.
gpking said:I don't use the button all that much, so it's going to stay jammed until I'm motivated to tear apart the whole dash just to work on it.
Blckshdw said:Small piece of advice, when you need to work on the headlight switch alone, no need to remove that dash panel. Get a thin, bladed, tool, and pry off the endcap that is between the door and the dash. That way you can reach in from the side, pinch the clips on the headlight switch module, release it inside the dash and pull it out from the side. Much easier than fiddling with that big ol' dash panel.
Blckshdw said:Took me a while to figure that out. Wasn't until I decided to do the power folding mirrors, and saw the guys on the OS pop that panel off to mount their control module
Didn't know why I didn't think of it sooner, but better late than never right?
dmanns67 said:The kit comes with very detailed directions and breaks down what you need. They also have a method for lining up the brackets. You will need to buy a rivet gun, unless you already have one. I picked up one from Lowe's for $18.
They also have the instructions on their website as well.
Redline Tuning - Hood Support, hood lift, gas springs, hood strut, hood struts, bonnet, bonet, hood lifters, hood damper, prop rod, hood lift, QuickLIFT, Quick LIFT system designed to lift and hold your hood.
You sir are a miracle worker.Blckshdw said:Small piece of advice, when you need to work on the headlight switch alone, no need to remove that dash panel. Get a thin, bladed, tool, and pry off the endcap that is between the door and the dash. That way you can reach in from the side, pinch the clips on the headlight switch module, release it inside the dash and pull it out from the side. Much easier than fiddling with that big ol' dash panel.
Boricua SS said:Well, I finally finished my clear corner mod and installed my headlights. I'm proud to report, that after an extensive 2 hour car wash and the lights getting blasted with water, there are no leaks and no condensaton! :wootwoot:
Also, everyone knows my debacle with the dealership and all my motor troubles (all 4 motors worth lol). When the last mechanic installed everything, he didnt know where anything went (he was a new hire at the time of my my final motor swap and the dealership fired the mechanic that took apart my truck) so my big 3 was thrown away, my aftermarket gm battery post terminals were thrown away (or stolen by the other tech) and just a bunch of other odds and ends. So I went and saw my best friend, Glen (ghenny440) who is the lead tech installer at B's Car Stereo and purchased 15' of 4awg knukonceptz wire, 2 new gm battery post terminals, and the associated end ring terminals. So I got started redoing my big 3 as well and making the beaSSt whole again.
Waiting to go in...
And they're in...
Can you tell where I cut them open?
Installed my new switchbacks since my old ones took a crap on me.
And my favorite... the night shot. (Those 194's light up pretty good Carlton )
Again, overall this is a very gratifying mod. But I will NEVER do this again The difficulty was rather easy, but it's definitely time consuming, can be frustursting at times, and just nerve racking since you're hoping they dont condensate after you seal them up. A special thank you to Carlton for all his help before I started this mod and an honorable mention to Jeff (jrSS) and Glen (ghenny440) for all your support and ideas.
Boricua SS said:Thx Mid... Im trying to work up the courage to complete my interior led conversion. Ive had everything but my gauge cluster done now for 2 years. Something about that cluster scares the shit outta me lol. Ive seen your progress and transformation in the LED mod thread. Kudos to you!
gpking said:You sir are a miracle worker.
Boricua SS said:Well, I finally finished my clear corner mod and installed my headlights. I'm proud to report, that after an extensive 2 hour car wash and the lights getting blasted with water, there are no leaks and no condensaton! :wootwoot:
Also, everyone knows my debacle with the dealership and all my motor troubles (all 4 motors worth lol). When the last mechanic installed everything, he didnt know where anything went (he was a new hire at the time of my my final motor swap and the dealership fired the mechanic that took apart my truck) so my big 3 was thrown away, my aftermarket gm battery post terminals were thrown away (or stolen by the other tech) and just a bunch of other odds and ends. So I went and saw my best friend, Glen (ghenny440) who is the lead tech installer at B's Car Stereo and purchased 15' of 4awg knukonceptz wire, 2 new gm battery post terminals, and the associated end ring terminals. So I got started redoing my big 3 as well and making the beaSSt whole again.
And my favorite... the night shot. (Those 194's light up pretty good Carlton )
Again, overall this is a very gratifying mod. But I will NEVER do this again The difficulty was rather easy, but it's definitely time consuming, can be frustursting at times, and just nerve racking since you're hoping they dont condensate after you seal them up. A special thank you to Carlton for all his help before I started this mod and an honorable mention to Jeff (jrSS) and Glen (ghenny440) for all your support and ideas.
Blckshdw said:Glad to hear the new lights are working, and you've got no leaks. Those corners are pretty bright, but you did have a lot of forward firing LEDs, so no that's a good reference for anyone else putting LEDs in their corners as well
As for the wiring stuff, I would be pretty pissed if someone stole/threw away one of my mods. Hopefully the only times you'll have to mess with stuff under the hood anymore, is when you go to add all your go-fast parts to it.
Boricua SS said:Well, I finally finished my clear corner mod and installed my headlights. I'm proud to report, that after an extensive 2 hour car wash and the lights getting blasted with water, there are no leaks and no condensaton! :wootwoot:
Installed my new switchbacks since my old ones took a crap on me.
http://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j298/boricua8194/20140405_194449_zps4tow2u4a.jpg[ [/QUOTE]
What switchbacks did you get?