What did you do to your GMT today?

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Playsinsnow said:
Wheels and stance look good! :thumbsup:


Some wheels look better without the caps IMHO. To repeat...You get center caps?
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Yep, I ordered Chrome ones, but I might paint them or have them powdercoated black. I plan on having the bolt pattern redrilled to the right pattern in the spring so I have a little less poke.
 
05tbowner said:
17x8 Cragar Soft 8's with 1" adapters. About 1" of poke, but I like the stance. It's going to sit a little lower after winters over. I think the wheels were around $380sh shipped to my door, and the adapters were around $140. I'm happy with the stance, everyone says it looks super aggressive when I'm behind them.
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Looks pretty cool. Just wondering how much did you have to take off the lug studs to make the 1" adapters work.
 
Welp, I wanna say about 1/2", and I only lost about 2 thread lines, because most of the stud was unthreaded that I cut off.
 
Since the alternator is new and my battery is giving out, I figured I would replace the original POS+ harness just as preventative maint. They tend to corrode sometimes and on occasion the evidence can be buried under the vinyl, but generally around the connections. Hopefully pick up the new one tomorrow.
 

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gmcman said:
Since the alternator is new and my battery is giving out, I figured I would replace the original POS+ harness just as preventative maint. They tend to corrode sometimes and on occasion the evidence can be buried under the vinyl, but generally around the connections. Hopefully pick up the new one tomorrow.
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I would just do the Big 3 upgrade. It'll probably cost around the same, and will give you a better connection.
 
fr34kout said:
I would just do the Big 3 upgrade. It'll probably cost around the same, and will give you a better connection.
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Yeah....especially since I already did 2 of the 3 wire upgrade. I don't have the chassis to engine wire but I feel a larger starter wire would be more useful. I honestly didn't even consider this :crazy:...not sure why, but I was able to get the harness for $45 so it's a tough call.

I also hate side-post connectors with a passion, mainly the way they bite into the lead. The "teeth" dig in but if you move the terminal when tightened then the indentions of the teeth in the lead from the side terminal have enlarged and have less material now to grab on to, or just not a solid connection anymore and adds resistance.

Naturally they work most of the time but you never know what's going on at the contact point. Most top post to side post conversions aren't that great....now I'm re-thinking this.
 
This. I think I will also hit the terminals with some Cardas solder.
 

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Went to UPS to drop off a package and scored a digital blower motor resistor and a rear cargo door latch and module from the scrapyard across the street! Installed them and now my truck is happy again.

Also getting ready for this next.

 
blazinlow89 said:
Thats terrifying if they were standard tires, most have a max PSI of like 44-48. Although 60 was perfect in my generals, the Pirellis I run at around 38. It took some getting used to with the softer sidewalls. Also keep an eye on them because you can wear the tread more in the center than the outside and will result in less tire life, this happened with my old Fuzions, running at 42PSI.
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Sorry, didn't see this originally. Yes they were stock tires. Well, they were the original tires that were on the vehicle when we bought it new. Someone told me that those aren't the stockers, but they were in my case (8 years old, ~49k miles). Yeah their max pressure is 44 psi but they were awesome on 60. I got scared and put them lower since I was getting new wheels soon anyway. I just recently got replica SS 20s with Yokohama Parada spec-x. I keep those at like 42, but my suspension is messed up or something because everything makes the car bounce all over the place but in a jarring way so it's the worst of both worlds.
 

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gmcman said:
This. I think I will also hit the terminals with some Cardas solder.
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You own that stuff? I only know what that even is because I was looking to make some audio cables and guys were recommending that. They said if you want to be super good about it to use a solder pot, although that isn't necessary. Unless you're working on some type of audiophile litz wire.

Also got a soldering station from the GF for my birthday.

u2a8eba2.jpg
 
Today I looked up price for new lights in my low and fogs. One ballast each decided to go out in 2 month increments. ugh.
 
....no.
 
blazinlow89 said:
Does not really go with the stance of the truck, especially since you said you wanted to lower it. Then again I could see this working in a utility wagon sort of way.

http://www.rackattack.com/dynamicim...crossbars-sportrack-basket-with-extension.jpg

Of course you could send it my way, I will give it some use.
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Yeah, I'm up in the air about it. I think it looks better in person to be honest. And I'm lowered already on Belltech springs, but I want a little more low, just gotta figure out how to get it haha.
 
05tbowner said:
And I'm lowered already on Belltech springs, but I want a little more low, just gotta figure out how to get it haha.
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:bonk: Wow, I have been looking at to many lifted trucks lately gathering research.
 
do you need a basket...major mpg hit when you run one.
 
05tbowner said:


Roof basket. Yes or no?
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:puke:

NO! Unless stock or lifted. Get an enclosed Thule/yakima if needed, looks better on lowered/sleeker vehicles IMHO
 
05tbowner said:
Yeah, I'm up in the air about it. I think it looks better in person to be honest. And I'm lowered already on Belltech springs, but I want a little more low, just gotta figure out how to get it haha.
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Let me know if you really want to go low. I can let you know everything you need to do. The first 2 inches are easy, the next 2 are hard, and the 1 after that is retarded lol
 
fadyasha said:
Replaced my rusty old pipe and muffler...

New Bling Bling!
8e4920dd.jpg
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Where or who makes this. I was thinking of the muffler delete also. I actually like the way the outlet is on this kinda would fit my SS rear bumper cutout perfect.
 
triz said:
Went to UPS to drop off a package and scored a digital blower motor resistor and a rear cargo door latch and module from the scrapyard across the street! Installed them and now my truck is happy again.

Also getting ready for this next.

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Same is sitting in my garage, need to order a filter after checking which pan I have. Going to do a full purge of the old fluid.
 
Mark20 said:
Same is sitting in my garage, need to order a filter after checking which pan I have. Going to do a full purge of the old fluid.
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In one of the forums..... I think the OS had a great how to on doing the tranny flush and changing the filter. Good luck
 
Fire06 said:
In one of the forums..... I think the OS had a great how to on doing the tranny flush and changing the filter. Good luck
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I have it bookmarked somewhere. It might be on the Netbook. If it is I'll post it. I have the filter and fluid just need to pick up a new transmission pan with drain plug. Not sure if I should go with the Dorman or one of those fancy aluminum pans.
 
Test drove my uncles new duraburb that he got custom made in florida and drove back.....
Fastest thing i have ever driven!
500hp and 800ft/lbs
Has a duramax 6.6L turbo and a allison1000 tranny
Thing beats skyline gtr35s in 1/4 miles....
9000lbs of pure insane lol
Tows up to 17,000lbs
And gets 23mpg.
5 stage EFI live
 
Ryda55555 said:
Test drove my uncles new duraburb that he got custom made in florida and drove back.....
Fastest thing i have ever driven!
500hp and 800ft/lbs
Has a duramax 6.6L turbo and a allison1000 tranny
Thing beats skyline gtr35s in 1/4 miles....
9000lbs of pure insane lol
Tows up to 17,000lbs
And gets 23mpg.
5 stage EFI live
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Very Nice
 
Took it hunting and snapped a couple pics...

ede3agu3.jpg


ute7a4u7.jpg


zamedeva.jpg
 
Talked with the transmission shop friday. They are gonna upgrade the output shaft and clutchpacks. So basically getting a level 5 built trans without the torque converter. I wanna...but dont have $1500 to throw at it.
 
What kinda torque convertor is 1500...
 
More than likely I am getting fucked by labor. It doesnt make since. All I know is I only wanna pay $400-$500. I am a cheap bastard since christmas is coming up. My son is more important at this time than a tourqe converter. Thanks for the heads up kyle.
 
Installed the new bull bar Friday, still waiting on the lights to come (Tuesday according to UPS, install in the rain. Changed out my HID bulbs as the old ones were getting a little dim, found out the plastic adjustment nut for my driver side headlight is missing so it now freely floats around, also got the shit shocked out of my by the HID ballast. I forgot how much AC current can hurt.

Saturday I put a hose clamp on the CV boot in place of the factory band clamp. Also detailed the truck one last time for the year.

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jrSS said:
More than likely I am getting fucked by labor. It doesnt make since. All I know is I only wanna pay $400-$500. I am a cheap bastard since christmas is coming up. My son is more important at this time than a tourqe converter. Thanks for the heads up kyle.
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Labor should be nothing basically. They already in there. Most want a new convertor when building anyway. Can prolly find tc itself cheaper. I did 30 second search.

I would ask them how much to slap one in if you bring your own. Just say someone giving you it so they don't think they are losing the part sale.
 
Even high end TC's are maybe ~900 from Yank. Circle D has them for around $400 and Yank has options at $475, $575, and $745 plus their super high end ones
 
today I welded a 1/2 to 3/8 impact adapter to my rear differential fill plug. It was kinda stuck, and kinda stripped. Came out in no time post-weld. Changed the fluid and replaced the plug. Might have to take the approach with the front diff, but my custom fill plug (through the original fill plug) on the front diff seems to be working fine.
 
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