LovingmyXUV
Member
Getting ready to show more updates on this Beautiful Chrome Love. Looks like maybe next weekend I can finish putting on the last piece. Can I update a Video here?
What did you do to your GMT today? [Part II]
- Thread starter Mooseman
- Start date
LovingmyXUV
Member
Finally got done with all the PIA problems on the TB, and the rust is in check. Frame needlescaled and NH rust inhibitor applied. All the fluids changed, spare tire hoist replaced, etc., etc. Entire suspensions been replaced. P/S and trans lines.
Got done with it all and the drivers door lock decides it wants to be intermittent. Oh, well.
Taking it to Utah (from NJ) next Wednesday. Did this trip in 2016. Not a hiccup, got almost 22mpg with a tailwind through Kansas.
I HATE to fly, but I'm sitting here wondering about the wisdom of this. TB's been stone reliable since I've owned it, (2007) now has 160,000 miles.
Guess I'm going to find out. Stay tuned.
Got done with it all and the drivers door lock decides it wants to be intermittent. Oh, well.
Taking it to Utah (from NJ) next Wednesday. Did this trip in 2016. Not a hiccup, got almost 22mpg with a tailwind through Kansas.
I HATE to fly, but I'm sitting here wondering about the wisdom of this. TB's been stone reliable since I've owned it, (2007) now has 160,000 miles.
Guess I'm going to find out. Stay tuned.
LovingmyXUV
Member
I know it doesn't say you're looking for advice but one thing I always do is keep a set of extra belts serpentine or otherwise on a trip like that. But I also keep extra in every car I own. Too many times I broke a belt on a trip.
Get AAA. Ever since I got it (CAA here), it saved my ass several times. Also can get discounts and here, cheap insurance. Well worth it.
So started on the oil pump on the Avy mid afternoon. Thought I'd just drain the fluids and maybe remove a couple parts because it's still hot today. It actually wasn't that bad under the canopy in the shade. So in four hours, got it out and in. This is my third time at this (did it twice on the Saab) and was able to do it without dropping the pan as usual. Longest part was getting the pickup tube bolt out. Used a pickup tube brace as the main holder instead of reusing the awkward positioned bolt. That bolt did fall into the pan but easily fished it out with a magnet. It can be done.
Didn't finish. Last pic is where I left it at. Should be done tomorrow.
I cut open the oil filter and although I didn't find any metal bits or anything, it did look kinda sludgy on the filter media. The interior of the engine does look a little coked with old oil so it might have been neglected a bit. I think I'll run a liter of tranny fluid with the oil to clean it out. I did put some carb cleaner down the pickup tube and compressed air to clear out the pickup screen if there's anything on it. The only disadvantage of not dropping the pan. The bypass valve on the old pump did seem a bit sticky so it could have been the issue however I just think it's wear since new thicker oil brought the pressure back up and would drop as it got old and hot. This new Melling high volume and pressure pump should take care of it.
Edit: Forgot to mention I also put in a new timing chain and replaced the failure prone tensioner with the old block style.
Yesterday, finished the oil pump job. I wasn't able to prime/fill the pump with oil as I couldn't access the port on the block but I did put some oil in it when I was putting it together. She was hard to fire up at first, stalling a couple of times and it then was able to stay running. Oil pressure got up to 55psi right away and dropped off a bit as it got warm, which is when the oil cooler line came out and pressure dropped to 0. Shut it off right away and fixed that along with the mess. Lost about 1.5 liters. I made damn sure it was in this time. Pressure is a helluva lot better now, running about 40-45 while cruising and going up to 50 at higher RPM.
Today, replaced the tailgate spoiler with the one on the tailgate I bought earlier. I thought that I could turn around and sell the tailgate itself but it's got the rust cancer. I cut a hole for the backup camera and was able to save some of the awful clips that break. Also had to put down some double sided tape to hold down the top to the tailgate after scraping the old stuff off.
Then looking at it and cleaning it off, it was a bit faded and greyed. Used some of the Carworx plastic restorer I got for the other cladding that was faded even worse. It made a helluva difference. Then started applying it to my sail panels that were very faded and had zebra stripes and they came out amazing. I have a split comparison shot of the spoiler that shows it but the sails were even more dramatic. I'll have to do the rest later.
Today, replaced the tailgate spoiler with the one on the tailgate I bought earlier. I thought that I could turn around and sell the tailgate itself but it's got the rust cancer. I cut a hole for the backup camera and was able to save some of the awful clips that break. Also had to put down some double sided tape to hold down the top to the tailgate after scraping the old stuff off.
Then looking at it and cleaning it off, it was a bit faded and greyed. Used some of the Carworx plastic restorer I got for the other cladding that was faded even worse. It made a helluva difference. Then started applying it to my sail panels that were very faded and had zebra stripes and they came out amazing. I have a split comparison shot of the spoiler that shows it but the sails were even more dramatic. I'll have to do the rest later.
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Yesterday, finished restoring the plastics on the Avy. What a difference! I also did the running boards and they basically turned out black. They had rust stains but but being back to black, it hides them.
- Jul 22, 2015
- 2,724
Your truck sounds like mine, as far as what I replaced, and when I drove west -- with a 4200lb trailer in tow. Oh, and I have the LWB and the 5.3L in mine. Except for the t-stat housing loosening up, which kept me adding a little bit of coolant each morning, until I got home and finally found the leak, it was trouble-free. I had about 130K on it when I made that trip. You won't be stressing your engine as much, and if you're going thru via Kansas, you won't have much in the way of hills to deal with between PA/WV and CO.
It's always the latter, friend. *Always*.
I can't believe this happened to you, too! Although mine was just forgetting to hook it back up after I disconnected it to play with the P/S pump. Same result, tho.
Yep yep. I love my HV pump.
I ripped out the awful Android HU and put the OEM Nav unit back in. Since installing it, it was making low noises as well as alternator whine. I tried putting two ground loop isolators, one for the front and one for the rear channels. It stopped the noise alright but the sound was pure poop and the 30 band equalizer couldn't do anything to fix it. I had Andoids before and this one was just bad. Bad interface, bad sound, slow, poor support. I should have returned it when I had the chance. I ordered a Bluetooth interface (CRUX BTGM-33) from Crutchfield. Reviews are mixed but this was the only affordable one. I saw some as high was $280USD + shipping to Canada. At least they have a good return policy except to pay for shipping back. Unfortunately these old Navs are no longer supported and the newest map update available is 2016. At least I have decent sound now. And I subscribed to Sirius XM. They have a 3 month trial for $2 at which time I can cancel unless they give me a good deal, like $5/month instead of $30.
I would have suggested the USASpec BlueTooth. Not heard a single complaint on them, have one in each of my trucks now.
I really dont like the RVC system these 2006 models have. It makes me think the alternator is bad watching the gauge, but its doing what its supposed to. Been looking around for a higher amp alternator so far today. With all the electronics on this truck (Esky), I just think the 160a is not enough.
Thinking of seeing if my 9-7x Dual Disc Nav can fit into my Esky also. I keep getting DVD Read Errors.
I really dont like the RVC system these 2006 models have. It makes me think the alternator is bad watching the gauge, but its doing what its supposed to. Been looking around for a higher amp alternator so far today. With all the electronics on this truck (Esky), I just think the 160a is not enough.
Thinking of seeing if my 9-7x Dual Disc Nav can fit into my Esky also. I keep getting DVD Read Errors.
I looked at them and it's just not affordable at $252USD ($310CAD)+ shipping. The Crux was $140CAD + taxes, shipping included. Reviews were either very good or crap. I find a lot of times it's a user problem or incompatibility when stuff don't work out of the box. We shall see.
So today started slowly enough. Replaced the inner tie rods on the replacement R&P for the TB. Then called the DIY garage to book some time for tomorrow but he was pretty booked except he had time right now. Called my buddy and we headed there. A lot less dramatic than last time apart from one 15mm bolt that broke, which is inconsequential as it's right next to the two lower A-arm 21mm bolts. The hardest part was getting the lower steering shaft reconnected to the pinion because of that
rubber boot. Doing the lines was pretty easy using two long 1/4" drive extensions with the 8mm socket. Then, trying to replace the belt with the proper one for a LWB, which is shorter due to the smaller pump pulley, however the one I got was way too short and couldn't even get it on. The old belt does work but chirps a bit and it's a bit on the loose side. I'll have to check the part numbers. Wouldn't surprise me if the parts store gave me the wrong one. Filled and bled the system and done. Took about 2 1/2 hours. I can now turn right without wrenching my shoulder and with less turns with the better ratio.
Mike534x
Member
- Apr 9, 2012
- 1,003
Been sick these past few weeks, and dealing with family stuff. Also landed a new job, and leaving the old one behind to start a new chapter in my life!
Finally get a chance to visit here again, and get some much needed work done on the Envoy. She's seen some neglect, and got a good washing and waxing earlier after getting a break from the heat wave we've been getting. Got the ball joints pressed into the new UCA, don't have them on the truck yet, but figured doing it a head of time would help out a lot. I'm pulling the rear end apart.....again after a month. The outer top surface of my NAPA premium rotors from 2 years ago are flaking horribly causing metal bits to get caught in the brake clips. Driving and braking are greeted with a less then pleasant noise. Ordered a set of Bendix STOP ceramic pads, and AC Delco Gold (Professional??) black hat rotors. Figured no harm, they were cheaper but are also coated while carrying a two year/unlimited mile warranty.
Last thing on the check list, aside from getting the struts done upfront is getting my license plate bulbs replaced. Went to give the screws a turn, and the heads just gave way. So now I need to head to HF to snag a bolt extractor.
Does anyone know the correct bolt/size I need to replace the old ones?
Finally get a chance to visit here again, and get some much needed work done on the Envoy. She's seen some neglect, and got a good washing and waxing earlier after getting a break from the heat wave we've been getting. Got the ball joints pressed into the new UCA, don't have them on the truck yet, but figured doing it a head of time would help out a lot. I'm pulling the rear end apart.....again after a month. The outer top surface of my NAPA premium rotors from 2 years ago are flaking horribly causing metal bits to get caught in the brake clips. Driving and braking are greeted with a less then pleasant noise. Ordered a set of Bendix STOP ceramic pads, and AC Delco Gold (Professional??) black hat rotors. Figured no harm, they were cheaper but are also coated while carrying a two year/unlimited mile warranty.
Last thing on the check list, aside from getting the struts done upfront is getting my license plate bulbs replaced. Went to give the screws a turn, and the heads just gave way. So now I need to head to HF to snag a bolt extractor.
Does anyone know the correct bolt/size I need to replace the old ones?
Well, ordered my PCMofNC tune! Can't wait to get it installed (hopefully next week if it doesn't get stuck at the border)!
Checked out the part numbers for the belts. The one I got for an EXT with the small PS pump pulley was the correct one, Dayco 5060905. Specs say it 90.55" long. I tried it again in case I messed up the first time and it just doesn't fit. The original SWB belt is Dayco 5060915 and it's 91.54" long and too long. Found another number, Dayco 5060910 and it's exactly 91.00" long. Exchanged it for that one and it fit perfectly. No squeaking or anything.
Checked the specs for EXT belts and it's weird. Lengths are all over the place.
90.55 (Dayco)
90.6 (Bando)
90.31 (ACDelco)
90.16 (ACDelco original)
I think I remember faintly that I had the same problem on the old EXT. The only constant is the pump and pulley that came from it. Searches I did say the 90.5" should fit for an EXT. The tensioners and pulleys are all the same except for the pump pulley.
Checked the specs for EXT belts and it's weird. Lengths are all over the place.
90.55 (Dayco)
90.6 (Bando)
90.31 (ACDelco)
90.16 (ACDelco original)
I think I remember faintly that I had the same problem on the old EXT. The only constant is the pump and pulley that came from it. Searches I did say the 90.5" should fit for an EXT. The tensioners and pulleys are all the same except for the pump pulley.
Took the TB to get straightened and have a slow leak fixed.
And installed the Crux Bluetooth adapter in the Avy. It's pretty good, sounds good and callers hear me well. XM also works as it should. Just a couple of hicks though. It doesn't automatically reconnect and if you forget to turn down the volume, you're greeted with loud beeps. For the price and the hell I went through with the Android HU, I can't complain.
And installed the Crux Bluetooth adapter in the Avy. It's pretty good, sounds good and callers hear me well. XM also works as it should. Just a couple of hicks though. It doesn't automatically reconnect and if you forget to turn down the volume, you're greeted with loud beeps. For the price and the hell I went through with the Android HU, I can't complain.
coolride
Member
xavierny25
Member
@coolride think moose means alignment shop. I know he was doing work on the rack and pinion so steering may be a little off.
Made it to Utah, no problems. Thrilled with the TB, got 20 MPG several fill ups.
As I said, made it to Utah nary a glitch.
What really surprised me is how much road construction there was on I80 west. Literally the entire state of PA has it about every 20 miles. Some in Ohio and Indiana, Illinois by Chicago is a nightmare.
We hit that about an hour before sunset, and the glare was terrible. Huge traffic. Stopped just west of Chicago for the night.
A bit more construction in Iowa but not bad. At the western end, the mountains started. The road don't look like there's much of a mountain, speed limit is 75, but starting up the mountain, the TB would come out of TCC lock up, down to 4th, then down to 3rd, struggling to keep the 75mph speed limit. I was on cruise control. That was a somewhat violent shift since the RPM's would go from about 2500 to 4000. Figured eventually I was going to blow it up, turned off the CC. So what if I lose 10mph going up the hill. TB just didn't have the balls for these mountains.
On to Nebraska. This is where the DOT started tearing up huge chunks of road, about 10 miles at a time, and using one eastbound lane for Westbound travel. Stopped for the night.
Same thing for Wyoming, incredibly beautiful state. I wondered about the rock formations, very unusual. Almost ran out of gas there. Passed a gas station, I had a little more than 1/4 tank, thought I had plenty till the next one. When I got there, put in 17.7 gallons. Whew.
Checked out the pump, regular was 84 octane, didn't trust it, got the 89 octane (at $4 a gallon). That station knew they had the tourists.
Made it to Utah, visiting with my daughter. Good times.
Leaving tomorrow, I'll let everyone know how I make out later next week.
What really surprised me is how much road construction there was on I80 west. Literally the entire state of PA has it about every 20 miles. Some in Ohio and Indiana, Illinois by Chicago is a nightmare.
We hit that about an hour before sunset, and the glare was terrible. Huge traffic. Stopped just west of Chicago for the night.
A bit more construction in Iowa but not bad. At the western end, the mountains started. The road don't look like there's much of a mountain, speed limit is 75, but starting up the mountain, the TB would come out of TCC lock up, down to 4th, then down to 3rd, struggling to keep the 75mph speed limit. I was on cruise control. That was a somewhat violent shift since the RPM's would go from about 2500 to 4000. Figured eventually I was going to blow it up, turned off the CC. So what if I lose 10mph going up the hill. TB just didn't have the balls for these mountains.
On to Nebraska. This is where the DOT started tearing up huge chunks of road, about 10 miles at a time, and using one eastbound lane for Westbound travel. Stopped for the night.
Same thing for Wyoming, incredibly beautiful state. I wondered about the rock formations, very unusual. Almost ran out of gas there. Passed a gas station, I had a little more than 1/4 tank, thought I had plenty till the next one. When I got there, put in 17.7 gallons. Whew.
Checked out the pump, regular was 84 octane, didn't trust it, got the 89 octane (at $4 a gallon). That station knew they had the tourists.
Made it to Utah, visiting with my daughter. Good times.
Leaving tomorrow, I'll let everyone know how I make out later next week.
Mike534x
Member
- Apr 9, 2012
- 1,003
Went underneath the truck to mess with getting the old fog lights free, one bolt is completely swollen around the plastic opening in the bumper. I managed to cut through one of the seized bolts using the dremel, before running out of juice so I have that charging at the moment. Passenger side CV joint has bit of grease around the boot, I think it might be time to change it out before Winter hits.
Unfortunately, I'm going to have to find a machine shop to weld in a steel plate to the lower half of the frame on the passenger side. Went through the rest of the underside looking for more, but everything is still solid with just surface rust thankfully. Nowhere near as bad as the Avalanche was. I tapped the spot a few times with a hammer and it still feels pretty damn solid despite how ugly it looks. Not exactly sure if it would help any, but I went over it with rust inhibitor to keep it protected enough until I figure out something.
Unfortunately, I'm going to have to find a machine shop to weld in a steel plate to the lower half of the frame on the passenger side. Went through the rest of the underside looking for more, but everything is still solid with just surface rust thankfully. Nowhere near as bad as the Avalanche was. I tapped the spot a few times with a hammer and it still feels pretty damn solid despite how ugly it looks. Not exactly sure if it would help any, but I went over it with rust inhibitor to keep it protected enough until I figure out something.
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LovingmyXUV
Member
Got new chrome step rails on and some accents on. Looks good. Back to having a single electrical issue.
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I would suggest you start a new thread about this issue. This thread is not the appropriate place.
Mike534x
Member
- Apr 9, 2012
- 1,003
So after nearly a year, I ripped out my SuspensionMAXX links. Well, for the front that is. Bought them mainly for being able to rebuild them, but after 10k miles I think its kinda nuts for the bushings to be shot already. Also wasn't a fan of having to go under every 2k to tighten the retaining nut over the bushings to keep everything feeling "firm". Bought open box Moog links from Amazon, at $10 a link. What could go wrong? Aside from the boxes being smashed, they were brand new in the factory plastic. Got them installed with some red loctite, and what a difference. It's back to feeling firm, and controlled again. Tomorrow with the rain taking a break, and being in the lower 70's figured it'd be a perfect day to remove the rear SMAXX links. I was going to go with Moog again, but Amazon had the AC Delco Professional ones on sale for Prime Day. I think all in all I saved about $12 buying both sets. They look pretty good aside from the hex head (only thing I hate), but I went with them because unlike Moog, the zerk fitting is on the side instead of facing the LCA where it seems to rub against it.
xavierny25
Member
Swapped out the Duralast gold battery for a XS Power agm battery. I also dumped the battery cover for the option of having top battery posts for accessories and my 0gauge run to my amplifiers. I have to get a set of heavy post terminals for that. Currently the amps are connected to the extention post on the back of the new battery.
Got the right rear lower diff arm mount off the frame. One thing I can say is GM knows how to weld. It fought me all the way. Was harder on the inside beside the muffler. After that, I was wiped out, still feeling the effects of the second dose. And during our morning walk, the dog accidentally slammed into my bad knee so that didn't help.
Most of the rust on this thing is attributable to the tar like undercoating that was applied, likely when it was near new. It is the worst thing for vehicles. It retains water under it and accelerates the rust. You can see it a bit in this pic. It just flakes off with the rust.
Oh, and I also discovered that the HVAC blower has stopped working. This truck just keeps on giving!
Most of the rust on this thing is attributable to the tar like undercoating that was applied, likely when it was near new. It is the worst thing for vehicles. It retains water under it and accelerates the rust. You can see it a bit in this pic. It just flakes off with the rust.
Oh, and I also discovered that the HVAC blower has stopped working. This truck just keeps on giving!
Cars and marriage, the 2 gifts that keep on giving...
Blckshdw
Moderator
Took apart the dash for some HVAC troubleshooting. Thread coming... Yes, another one...
Finished fixing the mount. Borrowed my nephew's plasma cutter. Man that's a nifty toy! Made a cardboard template from the other side and cut out two pieces from some steel I picked up from the clearance bin at the metal mart. Cleaned up the rust with the angle grinder and positioned them after taking measurements from the other side for positioning. Used the flux wire welder I bought used recently. I only have this one shot of the pre-weld setup.
Also welded a gusset between the two plates, then a quick black paint, bolted it back up and done. Also painted the other side that was previously done just to match.
Also had time to check the blower. Power is getting through to the blower so pulled it out and bench testing showed it didn't work at first, then it did after spinning it but would slow down quickly and vibrate. Heading to Kenny tomorrow to get one from a junker as I don't feel like spending any more money on this thing. May also pick up a spare blower module just because my luck has been like that lately.
Also welded a gusset between the two plates, then a quick black paint, bolted it back up and done. Also painted the other side that was previously done just to match.
Also had time to check the blower. Power is getting through to the blower so pulled it out and bench testing showed it didn't work at first, then it did after spinning it but would slow down quickly and vibrate. Heading to Kenny tomorrow to get one from a junker as I don't feel like spending any more money on this thing. May also pick up a spare blower module just because my luck has been like that lately.
Found a blower from an '07 Avy along with its module. Tested it in the yard with a jump pack and it was strong. Squirrel cage looked pretty clean too. The one in my 08 was a some unknown brand made in Korea and the replacement is a Bosch made in Mexico as well as the module. Installed it and it worked perfectly. Plugged in the module and it also worked so will just keep it as a spare.
So everything is back to 100% functional.
So everything is back to 100% functional.
xavierny25
Member
Oil change, checked fluid,tires, belt and drive train on the TBSS before the brother-in-law goes on his trip to Indiana to pick up the newest family member(dog) pic's to come when he gets home.
Anyone notice there are NO wrenches laying around, perfectly clean arms without any oil on them, nor drain pan nearby??? I see a package of new oil in the photo attempting to persuade us (or the mrs.) that this oil change has been done. lol. Just wait till the mrs. notices that no oil filter has been purchased, she is gonna be pissed.
And you do know that there are ramps to give you just that extra room to get at the oil filter at the REAR of that 6.0L V8 block? 
Not my TB but a friend's, replaced the thermostat due to low temps. And since I disconnected the battery, I had to clean the throttle body. The bolts fought me all the way out and I think after almost 300k km, it was never done. Waddya think?
Filled and burped fine and temps are good. Cleared all the codes with the Tech 2 and confirmed his fan is working. He asked if I could also do an oil change but I could read on the Tech 2 he still had 65% oil life left but it did need a liter. And poking around, I saw that it had the odd misfire here and there but nothing bad. Probably the plugs need changing.
Not my TB but a friend's, replaced the thermostat due to low temps. And since I disconnected the battery, I had to clean the throttle body. The bolts fought me all the way out and I think after almost 300k km, it was never done. Waddya think?
Filled and burped fine and temps are good. Cleared all the codes with the Tech 2 and confirmed his fan is working. He asked if I could also do an oil change but I could read on the Tech 2 he still had 65% oil life left but it did need a liter. And poking around, I saw that it had the odd misfire here and there but nothing bad. Probably the plugs need changing.
"And poking around, I saw that it had the odd misfire here and there but nothing bad. Probably the plugs need changing."
It would be interesting to know how well the iridium plugs have held up with that much mileage. I've seen them at about 160k km and they looked fine. Should you be lassoed into changing the plugs on this engine let us know how well they look. I am amazed at how many miles these plugs last.
It would be interesting to know how well the iridium plugs have held up with that much mileage. I've seen them at about 160k km and they looked fine. Should you be lassoed into changing the plugs on this engine let us know how well they look. I am amazed at how many miles these plugs last.
xavierny25
Member
Wow! You guys call me out. LolAnyone notice there are NO wrenches laying around, perfectly clean arms without any oil on them, nor drain pan nearby??? I see a package of new oil in the photo attempting to persuade us (or the mrs.) that this oil change has been done. lol. Just wait till the mrs. notices that no oil filter has been purchased, she is gonna be pissed.
And you do know that there are ramps to give you just that extra room to get at the oil filter at the REAR of that 6.0L V8 block?
I have ramps but the brother-in-law in law opted to use just the jack(handle in the right hand corner of the pic above) and stands.
Didn't want to flood the thread with my sometimes crazy amount of pics, but since insist. Lol
xavierny25
Member
Finally! Plugs on the Voy I've been meaning to replace for about 3 months.
