What are you doing today? [Part II]

BrianF

Member
Jul 24, 2013
1,306
West central Sask.
Well i got close to 300km on the old Sunfire. Put on some new wires from Napa and no more idle/ rough running issues. She blows decently cold and takes a beating. Originally I was calling it Sunny the shitbox but my wife said no, it's shitty blue. We have big blue, little blue and now shitty blue.

I haven't bothered to dig further with the fan. It works with the ac and the coolant temp appears accurate so perhaps it does require the 106C. I monitored it with my code reader and no hint of overheating.
 

TollKeeper

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Dec 3, 2011
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If you in Colorado, dont get caught. Very Expensive fine, plus jail time, for killing any squirrel.
 

Mooseman

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Dec 4, 2011
26,670
Ottawa, ON
I just did two wheels on the trailer, pulling the drums off, cleaning and regreasing the bearings. My back was in a spasm after. And it started raining so had to hurry to put away all my tools. I'll have to do the other two wheels tomorrow or Sunday.
 

BrianF

Member
Jul 24, 2013
1,306
West central Sask.
Well, in the process of redoing the front tack room of our 6 horse. We knew it had a bit of moisture intrusion when we bought it, so I used eternabond on the roof seals and silicone on every other point that needed it. This year, my wife and daughter are planning to spend a few nights in it so I guess it was time....

A few days ago I gutted it. Moisture and mouse damage. All paneling was removed, flooring and a bunch of the insulation. She was cleaned, aired out and some rust primer sprayed in.

Today we bought paneling that we hope to pick up once the rain stops. I will do the walls and frame the front so it's usable. The windows use a trim piece that needs the paneling in place to hold them in place. Early next week the rv reversible exhaust fan and solar panel mounts come in. Once that is all in, I can wire it in and seal up the roof.
 

BrianF

Member
Jul 24, 2013
1,306
West central Sask.
Side paneling is all in, minus the nose. It still requires trim peices but it's usable.

I took the plunge and cut a hole in the roof and got that fan put in. Actually it was really quite simple. Measured twice and cut once. It plopped in and works perfect. @Mooseman i got to give you another shout out for getting me switched into eternabond. It was an absolute breeze to seal the fan in.

Tomorrow we will pick up some white paneling for the ceiling and begin that task.
 

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Mooseman

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Dec 4, 2011
26,670
Ottawa, ON
@Mooseman i got to give you another shout out for getting me switched into eternabond. It was an absolute breeze to seal the fan in.
And you'll never have to reseal it again. Glad you like it.
 
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BrianF

Member
Jul 24, 2013
1,306
West central Sask.
Another thing with that eternabond, once it's laid down, it's done, it's sealed. As i was working on the roof, the weather changed and it looked like a thunderstorm might hit us. Oh well, didn't have to wait on some garbage sealant to dry.

Well the storm never came so for supper I had ribs going. Used the Traeger for pork and beef ribs. Did a couple different BBQ flavors and some Greek as well. They were finished on the charcoal and then on went some little fillets. It all tasted delicious!

As I sat and "monitored" the grill, i enjoyed an ice cold fake Corona with lime and enjoyed my view to the south.
 

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mrrsm

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Oct 22, 2015
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It's about 4:00 AM and I was browsing on YouTube and was very surprised by the discovery of only the 3rd ever Interstellar object to be seen approaching our Solar System from the nether regions of the Milky Way at a truly STAGGERING Speed which automatically disqualifies it as originating from anywhere within our Solar System.

Based upon its albedo, This *Thing* is MUCH greater in size and mass than Omuamua was as the last of such insanely rare Interstellar objects to approach our location from out of the vast Cosmos.

Right now... it careens towards its closest rendezvous with MARS and so it poses no threat to the Earth. It is moving at 66 Kilometers a Second (Xs 3600 = 237,000 Kilometers an Hour) and is on a hyperbolic orbit that will carry it through our Solar System rather quickly and then shoot outwards back into deep space after it passes at a goodly distance from our Sun... and us:



WE will be on the opposite side of the ecliptic from *IT* when it moves through the orbits of the Planets and THIS Italian Astronomer Dude can catch everyone up on "3I/Atlas" for better details coming from his Virtual Telescope in Italy...

 
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flyboy2610

Member
Aug 24, 2021
614
Lincoln, Ne.
Finished re-wiring Frankie, the trailer I built from a '68 Ford F100. I bought new taillight buckets and lenses from Dennis Carpenter Ford Restoration Parts. I still need to get some split plastic wire loom and tidy up the wiring, but the hard part is done. Went from a flat 4 pin connector, which is what I used when I built it, to a round 7 blade connector which is what my '04 TB EXT has. No more adapter! :celebrate:
I used a Bargman 7 pin junction box.
The worst part was drilling 2 holes through the frame to mount the box. Drilling through an older pickup truck frame is not a lot of fun. I drilled the holes large enough to accommodate 1/4-20 jack nuts, so the box can be unbolted if needed.
I'll get some wire loom tomorrow when the parts stores open.
 

TJBaker57

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Aug 16, 2015
3,517
Colorado
Last weekend I took a quick trip from Colorado to California to retrieve a basket case motorcycle. I will embark on resurrecting said cycle soon. Today I continued unloading parts and photographing them as I found places for them in the shop. Among the parts I discovered a stowaway having nothing to do with a 1972 Norton Commando. Not sure how this got in there!

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BrianF

Member
Jul 24, 2013
1,306
West central Sask.
Well that's an interesting part........

So, I got a question for the crew, so on my horse trailer, I ran 12 gauge wire direct from the battery up into the front where it connects to the 11" exhaust fan. Now, I will run wire if needed but I ask if it would be suitable to plumbing in the solar panel to this existing wire.

It's a smaller 100w panel, which will feed the charge controller, which would tie in. Would those scotchlock connectors suffice? The panel apparently has a 5.5 amp rating. These connections would be contained inside the trailer along the bulkhead.
 
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flyboy2610

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Aug 24, 2021
614
Lincoln, Ne.
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flyboy2610

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Aug 24, 2021
614
Lincoln, Ne.
I don't own a Fortress compressor but I've heard good things about them.
 

mrrsm

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Oct 22, 2015
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@BrianF ... A Suggestion from Nomic's *GPT4ALL*:

Your entire Post as "The Prompt":

TRAILERWIRINGSOLAR1.jpg

*GPT4ALL* Replied:

TRAILERWIRINGSOLAR2.jpg
 
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BrianF

Member
Jul 24, 2013
1,306
West central Sask.
Ok @mrrsm thats cool! That damn AI really is cool!

There most certainly is a charge controller that will nestle between the panel and batteries. The power that runs the interior and exterior loading lights runs through a 30 amp fuse.

I will have a look at those T taps when I get a chance. My wife has the trailer this week at a show.
 
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mrrsm

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Oct 22, 2015
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@BrianF ... YOU TOO can Download Nomic's FREE *GPT4ALL* AI and use its "One Button Install" to save it on a Desktop or a Laptop Computer with access to a very large variety of useful (FREE) LLM (Large Language Models) worth having... Before the "Big Three" (Microsoft, Google, Facebook) dominate the "Pay For Play" AI Space... Forever:

Nomic's *GPT4ALL* is FREE, Works PRIVATELY and Needs NO Internet Connection:



 
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TollKeeper

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Dec 3, 2011
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Brighton, CO
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BrianF

Member
Jul 24, 2013
1,306
West central Sask.
Went in to diagnose some noise emanating from the pulleys on Shitty Blue. Pulled off the engine mount to gain as much access to that measly area as I could. The idler, tensioner and water pump were all good. Turns out the alternator bearings are the culprit. No play but they are past their expiration date. I'll address that this summer.

Then had the fun of routing that damn belt back on. Even with the mount removed, I needed a poking stick to help guide that damn thing back on.
 

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flyboy2610

Member
Aug 24, 2021
614
Lincoln, Ne.
I read an article a while back on customer complaints for different categories of appliances. #1 on the list? Washers and dryers.
Our washer and dryer pair are 18 years old and still function perfectly. That may be because there are no electronics on either one. Only rotary dials.
 

BrianF

Member
Jul 24, 2013
1,306
West central Sask.
I have named the work I am doing on my Sunfire, it's now called "Project Dribbly Bastard." I'll explain.

Yesterday I decided to rip the alternator off and see what could be done about the bearings. I managed to get some fresh grease worked in the front one but I was not able to access the rear most without splitting the case. I would need a higher powered soldering iron, much more than I have, which is needed to desolder several pins. Ok fine, I'll get a reman unit sometime in the future and call it.

I put things back together and the last step was to reconnect the battery. Instant welding noises, light show and it smoked worse than the local crqck heads. Fk sakes! Quickly disconnect the power and unhook the alternator. I moved the vehicle out of the shop and into the open. I shut down for the night and if it burns down, oh well.

This morning I called up Napa and they ordered me a reman unit, which will be here next day. I go out and pop the old one out, which is down to about 15 minutes of work.

Well, let's have a look, I have a suspicion of what went wrong. Yep, installed the four etorx bolts in wrong. I accidentally clocked the unit. One bolt is insulated and went in the wrong spot. Much to my luck and how dribbly I am, the bolt was still usable and the metal contacts were fine. I put it back together correctly and it works as good as it did before. In fact maybe better. It charged at 13.9v prior and it's now 14.14v.
 

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TollKeeper

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Dec 3, 2011
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Brighton, CO
I thought I made a post about his... But about a month ago... I bought a 1997ish Snapper LE1642H..

https://www.tractordata.com/lawn-tractors/003/1/3/3138-snapper-lt160h42dbv2.html

I know I overpaid for it a bit. Was $1800 from a lawn mower repair shop. Got him down to $1700, and he took another $400 off on my Yard Machines Trade in.

Came with a Snowblower (model #38LTST1 ), and a SnowPlow. For me, these were big deals. I have a bad back, with 6 disc issues. Shoveling snow is not something I want to do. I have a regular snowblower, but its even hard to use because of the size/weight.

I have discovered that if I let it run out of gas, it becomes very cranky to restart! I think I have a pulley or blade thats out of balance. I get a shake upon starting up the blade PTO. Very different Hydostatic Transmission. I had a JD with foot operated Hydro, but this lever operated one is quite a bit different.

Mowed my lawn perfectly. Gotta get with a Snapper repair center to see if they can show me how this full frame blower attaches! Its a freaking monster!

Obligatory pics
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TollKeeper

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Dec 3, 2011
8,382
Brighton, CO
Then today.....

So ran into some issues...

Engine Model # is 28Q777 672-A1

I think I may need a new engine... Which sucks cause I just bought this **** thing..

Anyways, I went out to mow today, checked the oil, and all the normal stuff. Got to the middle of my first stripe, and engine dies. Popped the hood, and its out of gas. I forgot to check that.

Put some gas in it, and its hard to start, but it finally starts.

Get to the end of my first stripe, and the engine makes a loud pop thru the exhaust, and promptly shuts off, and wont restart.

I pull the air filter cover, and air filter off, and its just soaked in gasoline smelling oil.

I start it with the air filter off, and it starts right up, and then about 5 seconds later, I have a geyser of oil coming out of the oil vent tube.

Shut it off after getting my oil bath, and checked the oil.. Its now way up the oil stick, and thats after the geyser.

The bit of research I did, this is indicative of a worn engine, and usually means engine rebuild/replacement.

I did a oil change on it, and the oil from the crankcase was almost water like consistency, and nearly 2 liters of oil came out, or nearly 2 quarts. The crankcase only is supposed to hold 1.5-1.75 quarts.

After the oil change, filled right inbetween the marks on the dip stick, it started and ran perfectly. Finished my lawn job, and checked the oil again, and its now above the full line on the oil dipstick.

Which means, the engine is making oil. Not good.

Looking for help, and guidance here.
 
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Mooseman

Moderator
Dec 4, 2011
26,670
Ottawa, ON
Fuel in the oil can also indicate a leaking carb, especially if it's a gravity fed carb, Could explain the hard starting and rough running as it would be running rich. Would also explain why it's always out of gas. To check if the needle and seat are leaking, get a piece of clear hose of the same size at the fuel inlet of the carb, disconnect the fuel inlet and attach that clear hose. Attach the hose with a zip tie or something to hold it up vertically and fill the hose until it stops going into the carb. If it does stop, put a mark on the hose and let it sit for a few hours. It shouldn't go down significantly. If it does go down or it never stopped to begin with, it's the carb that may just need a cleaning or, at worse, a new needle and seat.

Even if it's a pump fed carb you can try this same test but if the needle and seat are just marginal it may not manifest itself. I's just pull the carb and clean it thoroughly.
 
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TollKeeper

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Dec 3, 2011
8,382
Brighton, CO
If it has a pulse type fuel pump, the diaprham could be torn and allowing gas to enter the crankcase. It operates by pulsing via crankcase pressure. I don't like them but, they do work (most times).
Doesnt have a pulse pump on it. Just a fuel line that goes from the fuel tank to the carb.

Fuel in the oil can also indicate a leaking carb, especially if it's a gravity fed carb, Could explain the hard starting and rough running as it would be running rich. Would also explain why it's always out of gas. To check if the needle and seat are leaking, get a piece of clear hose of the same size at the fuel inlet of the carb, disconnect the fuel inlet and attach that clear hose. Attach the hose with a zip tie or something to hold it up vertically and fill the hose until it stops going into the carb. If it does stop, put a mark on the hose and let it sit for a few hours. It shouldn't go down significantly. If it does go down or it never stopped to begin with, it's the carb that may just need a cleaning or, at worse, a new needle and seat.

Even if it's a pump fed carb you can try this same test but if the needle and seat are just marginal it may not manifest itself. I's just pull the carb and clean it thoroughly.
I think this is what I ultimately decided was the problem...

Last night I get home to do some more investigation, and the motor is hydro locked.

I manually rotated the engine backwards off the compression stroke, and it dumped all the fuel in the cylinder down the exhaust. Then it fired right up.

Shut it off, and pulled the full line to dump the remaining fuel in the tank to a gas can. It doesnt have a fuel shut off valve.

So I ordered a new Carb assembly (cheaper than a rebuild) for $29 dollars. It comes with a lot of things, the air filter alone is 20 dollars thru Amazon or 17 dollars thru the local store. So its a win.


And it comes with a fuel shut off valve!

Hopefully this fixes all my problems. Of course this means another oil change, 3rd one in a month. But I dont want to risk thin oil in the crankcase.
 

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