NEED HELP Unknown Driver and No Start
- Thread starter Mramses
- Start date
fuse 17 ok.
12 v when turning the key to START OK
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Fuse 17 should have 12 volts power from the ignition switch through the yellow wire when in START. From fuse 17 power signal should go to PCM C1, 31
key to RUN, 12V to just one starter relay socket
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EDIT: these comments to be disregarded since the test results have been found to be incorrect
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It is sounding like something is maybe wrong at the ignition switch where the gears are.
The starter relay socket should have power to only one socket when key is OFF. It should have power at two sockets with the Key in RUN.
Fuse 17 gets power from the ignition switch yellow wire ONLY when the key is in START.
Your tests seem to indicate there is something not right at the ignition switch where it aligns with the lock cylinder
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It is sounding like something is maybe wrong at the ignition switch where the gears are.
The starter relay socket should have power to only one socket when key is OFF. It should have power at two sockets with the Key in RUN.
Fuse 17 gets power from the ignition switch yellow wire ONLY when the key is in START.
Your tests seem to indicate there is something not right at the ignition switch where it aligns with the lock cylinder
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EDIT: these comments to be disregarded since the test results have been found to be incorrect.
This indicates you may have trouble at the Park/Neutral switch or Fuse 22 in the front fuseblock. With key in RUN power should go through fuse 22 to the park/neutral switch on the transmission then up to the starter relay.
The starter relay has one socket straight to the battery through fuse 34 and one gets power with the key in RUN through fuse 22 and the park/neutral switch.
If you have only one socket with 12 volts with key in RUN then there is a problem in one of those two circuits.
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I would be interested if the car scanner app, used in the terminal mode as we did before gave results.
Now we know for certain there is communication occuring. If the elm327 still fails to connect in the terminal screen I would conclude that your particular elm327 does not support SAE J1850 VPW.
AT D
AT H1
AT S1
AT SP 2
AT SH 6C FE F1
20
20
20
@Mramses all the tests are done incorrect in these 8 pictures from posts #447 and #448.
From the meter, black lead to ground, red lead to relay socket.
With black lead to relay socket and red lead to battery you are testing for ground in the socket, not 12 volt power.
With this in mind my previous messages about fuse 22 and the park/neutral switch should be disregarded.
Please retest the 12 volt power at the starter relay socket.
understood friend tomorrow I confirm the measurements
excuse my distraction
hello friend thanks for answering. yes, I already tried P and N but it doesn't do anything
friends I brought the key sensor, connected it to the harness and placed near the cylinder and activated the truck with the padlock. but he did it in certain positions near the key cylinder. now it remained permanently on.
tj baker 57 already confirm the voltages on the starter relay and if they are ok. I have 12v on a pin when it is off. and two pins with 12v when in run. when I give START the 12v of crank is activated in fuse # 17
tj baker 57 already confirm the voltages on the starter relay and if they are ok. I have 12v on a pin when it is off. and two pins with 12v when in run. when I give START the 12v of crank is activated in fuse # 17
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the light of the truck when you start it never flashes, it only comes on and stays fixed. what should I do now?
I have left it on for more than 10 minutes and the lock light does not turn off with the truck
I have left it on for more than 10 minutes and the lock light does not turn off with the truck
I would troubleshoot at the starter relay. Long ago you jumped the starter relay and the starter turned. Does it still do this now?
When the key is turned to START the relay socket marked in this picture "PCM C1-48" should have continuity to ground.
I tried the relay and it is good. I have the voltages indicated in the image 12v all time and 12v in RUN. Yes, when the starter pin jumps, the motor turns.
I am going to check the ground on pin C1 48
no hay señal de tierra a
I am going to check the ground on pin C1 48
no hay señal de tierra a
friend tjbaker57 is it possible to test if when changing your BCM for one of the ones you brought, the truck remains in the same situation as I am?
There is another requirement for the PCM to give ground to C1-48. There must be 12 + Volt power at C1-29 with key in RUN and also with key in START. This power comes from fuse 22 and the park/neutral switch. There must be 12 volts + at C1-31 with key in START. This power comes from crank fuse 17.
Please verify these conditions at PCM harness C1.
C1-29 12 Volts with key in RUN and START
C1-31 12 Volts with key in START
Edit: Also check continuity from PCM harness C1-48 to starter relay terminal shown in previous picture.
Please verify these conditions at PCM harness C1.
C1-29 12 Volts with key in RUN and START
C1-31 12 Volts with key in START
Edit: Also check continuity from PCM harness C1-48 to starter relay terminal shown in previous picture.
friend I already checked the signs that he indicated to me in plane. but now I have the anti-theft warning light on permanently when I turn the switch. It does not turn off even when leaving the key in run for more than 10 minutes
PCM disconnected.
jumper sp205 light green BCM and gray CLUSTER
When key is OFF 0V yellow signal from passlock sensor.
key turn to RUN 5v in yellow passlock sensor.
The anti-theft device turns on, it does not mark a bar in PRND321, it does not mark gasoline, it does not mark oil pressure.
cluster DRIVER 1
5v of the yellow passlock sensor wire drops to 2.11 at START and remains until the key is turned OFF.
jumper sp205 light green BCM and gray CLUSTER
When key is OFF 0V yellow signal from passlock sensor.
key turn to RUN 5v in yellow passlock sensor.
The anti-theft device turns on, it does not mark a bar in PRND321, it does not mark gasoline, it does not mark oil pressure.
cluster DRIVER 1
5v of the yellow passlock sensor wire drops to 2.11 at START and remains until the key is turned OFF.
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could that be friends? because before the anti-theft was blinking. but after several attempts of the relearn procedure the anti-theft indicator remained fixed
Could it be that when I try this several times, and it does not give result, I will crash or something?
Could it be that when I try this several times, and it does not give result, I will crash or something?
when i change the pcm, the behavior of the anti-theft is different. with the second pcm it blinks 4 times and then that fixed. It never turns off after 10 minutes.
with the pcm that I brought next to the cluster and bcm the anti-theft is fixed. but before it would flicker many times until it was fixed
with the pcm that I brought next to the cluster and bcm the anti-theft is fixed. but before it would flicker many times until it was fixed
Yes. I wanted to see if there were export specific security options. Someone on another website suggested that all export vehicles had a different theft security/ignition key system. These codes show your truck has the same as mine.
you need to post a table pf the voltage conditions of the bcm as I suggested in post 382 to determine if the BCM is in the right state.
In post #457 is an image of the IPC showing a reading on the volts gauge. This is proof of BCM communications as that gauge is driven by the BCM on the class 2 serial data bus.
Also seen is a shift indicator Bar under the P(ark) position. This is proof that PCM was also communicating with the IPC.
One could assume the PCM and BCM were in communications with each other as well.
As I understand the situation now the security light light is now on solid as soon as the ignition is switched to RUN. Earlier, after the initial BCM, IPC swaps this was not so.
I believe a Passlock code has been set in the BCM, likely due to disturbing the wiring at the Passlock sensor. I have read those wires are somewhat fragile which is one reason why I did my Passlock sensor tests back at the BCM and did not disturb the sensor harness.
It will prove difficult to troubleshoot possible BCM Passlock trouble code(s) when we can't read them!
Also seen is a shift indicator Bar under the P(ark) position. This is proof that PCM was also communicating with the IPC.
One could assume the PCM and BCM were in communications with each other as well.
As I understand the situation now the security light light is now on solid as soon as the ignition is switched to RUN. Earlier, after the initial BCM, IPC swaps this was not so.
I believe a Passlock code has been set in the BCM, likely due to disturbing the wiring at the Passlock sensor. I have read those wires are somewhat fragile which is one reason why I did my Passlock sensor tests back at the BCM and did not disturb the sensor harness.
It will prove difficult to troubleshoot possible BCM Passlock trouble code(s) when we can't read them!
Mooseman
Moderator
I do believe after a certain number of attempts to start with a Passlock fault it will go into a permanent lock that will require a Tech 2 and possibly also Tis2000 to get security access to unlock it again.
I have been wondering about just that. Haven't been able to locate any documentation or discussion about that possibility.
