Mooseman
Moderator
Tool Talk
- Thread starter IllogicTC
- Start date
littleblazer
Member
- Jul 6, 2014
- 9,267
m.mcmillen
Member
I was installing a transmission tonight and thought I would mention this extension that I have. 1/2 drive input and 3/8 drive output and 36” long. Works great for bell housing bolts. Use an impact rated universal socket on the other end and it makes it that much easier.
SK Tools Model SKT-46175 Long Impact Extension/Adapter 1/2" F-3/8"M 36" - Sockets - Amazon.com
SK Tools Model SKT-46175 Long Impact Extension/Adapter 1/2" F-3/8"M 36" - Sockets - Amazon.com
www.amazon.com
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Mounce
Member
A tool I had forgotten about! Heard about it months ago and was just today thinking about transmissions and all, ya'kno, boredom pondering nonsense, and was trying to place the tool I had seen for the bellhousing bolts and this was it!
I liked @m.mcmillen 's suggestion and when I searched for that SK one on Amazon... another 'flavor' made by "V-8" came up with the same Impact Grade Specs at around $80.00... BUT... I also checked on eBay ...and a Vendor there named "ZORO" is selling that same, alternate brand called the "V-8 Model# 98036 Impact Extension 36" Long, 1/2" Female to 3/8" Male Drive for only $36.65 +modest S&H Charges. They have around (10) of these Extensions presently In Stock as of December 31st, 2019 ...for any interested Members:
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Spied (and snagged) these GearWrench Tools on Amazon:
This is the GearWrench 3/8" Drive (15) Piece Metric (M-8 to M-22) Spring-Loaded, Wobble Socket of Impact Grade Chrome-Moly "Black" Steel Tool Kit. It originally started out at around $250.00 a few years back... then it dropped to $99.00... NOW ...this Latest, Updated Version is available for under $75.00. Comes with a Blow-Molded, Gray Drop-Proof Case ( ...has sturdy hinges vs. the ususal flimsy versions for protection against accidental opening) via its sturdy Brushed Metal submerged Locking Tabs for added strength.
The Three Piece GearWrench 3/8" Drive Locking End Impact Grade Set of Extensions (3", 6" and 12" Lengths) and is sold as a separate Kit which complimented the purchase of the GW Socket Set for an additional (pricey) $37.28:
This is the GearWrench 3/8" Drive (15) Piece Metric (M-8 to M-22) Spring-Loaded, Wobble Socket of Impact Grade Chrome-Moly "Black" Steel Tool Kit. It originally started out at around $250.00 a few years back... then it dropped to $99.00... NOW ...this Latest, Updated Version is available for under $75.00. Comes with a Blow-Molded, Gray Drop-Proof Case ( ...has sturdy hinges vs. the ususal flimsy versions for protection against accidental opening) via its sturdy Brushed Metal submerged Locking Tabs for added strength.
The Three Piece GearWrench 3/8" Drive Locking End Impact Grade Set of Extensions (3", 6" and 12" Lengths) and is sold as a separate Kit which complimented the purchase of the GW Socket Set for an additional (pricey) $37.28:
GEARWRENCH 3 Pc. 3/8" Drive Impact Locking Extension Set 3", 6" & 12" - 84927N - - Amazon.com
GEARWRENCH 3 Pc. 3/8" Drive Impact Locking Extension Set 3", 6" & 12" - 84927N - - Amazon.com
www.amazon.com
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Blckshdw
Moderator
I was poking around looking at similar sockets and such the other day. How do you guys feel about the pass-through ratchets and sockets? I can't say I'd have a frequent need for them, but there have been a few times where deep well functionality was needed, but without the space to conveniently do it without having to remove other things.
xavierny25
Member
I've got a husky set from home depot years ago and have to say they are really handy. Especially in situations where you can only use one hand to get at the bolt. Just slip it on and it holds and you don't have to fumble like you would with a deep socket and ratchet. One thing I do advise is "wear gloves" do to how close your hand and handle are to the matting surface of the bolt you are removing.
Edit: Funny how these craftmans are the exact samething I have but with a husky label and are ridiculously priced in comparison.https://www.searsoutlet.com/br/pdp/...UsIFCbCV184HpUZEPO_laNs5GiHCzV9hoCLXEQAvD_BwE
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Maverick6587
Member
I might have to get me a set of those pass-through sockets and wrenches! 3 times this week alone I had to switch to 1/4 in. ratchet/sockets to get to bolts (tight spaces). They would save a little time if you used them frequently. I was worried that they didn't lock in place but, they do.
It might be cheaper to buy these vs buying both short, mid, and deep-well sockets.
EDIT: I actually have a set of Tekton sockets sitting in my Amazon account that I was going to order next week. I'm going to find a set of pass-through sockets and a ratchet now. Thanks @Blckshdw
It might be cheaper to buy these vs buying both short, mid, and deep-well sockets.
EDIT: I actually have a set of Tekton sockets sitting in my Amazon account that I was going to order next week. I'm going to find a set of pass-through sockets and a ratchet now. Thanks @Blckshdw
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littleblazer
Member
- Jul 6, 2014
- 9,267
The impact has been working fine since that one hiccup. I'll probably pick up another battery for it this week.
Beacon
Member
Since my tools only came with a tool bag rather than a hard case, I found this Plano 4 pistol gun case on clearance at Tractor Supply, I think it was $7.00. I used a black sharpie, traced around the tools and used a razor knife to remove some foam. Seems to work good and now I don't have to worry about the battery ends coming into contact with something.
- Jul 22, 2015
- 2,724
Nearly bought one a while back (no one had it locally / could get it to me quickly, which is why I think (?) I didn't buy it) Plus, I ran into a site describing how to adjust a 'regular' coupler to work well, and how to attach / detach it (at an angle). Got pretty good with it, after doing all the front suspension overhauls over the last few years.
Most of the fittings I work with are similar in size, so I almost never have to adjust the coupler. For those who work with several different fitting sizes, that Lock-n-Lube is probably better than sliced bread.
Question on grease - anyone use the Kendall L-427 Super Blu? It's supposed to be the absolute bomb for wheel bearings; been thinking about getting some (supposed to be what comes in OEM hubs), and want to 'rejuvenate' the rear hubs on the QSteer truck (I have a new set that I can put on, but they're CCC, and even they were on the 'clearance' list when I picked them up)
Mooseman
Moderator
I use Lucas red #2 synth grease on everything including RV wheel bearings and on my sled. It has had great longevity during my uses.
I don't use moly grease as it turns hard in the cold. Something I learned from my son who's a heavy equipment tech.
I don't use moly grease as it turns hard in the cold. Something I learned from my son who's a heavy equipment tech.
- Jul 22, 2015
- 2,724
Interesting. FoMoCo's grease spec specifically calls for moly (GM's doesn't, and more OEMs tend to side with them; Ford seems to stand alone WRT moly) Valvoline is one mfg who distributes both varieties and labels them accordingly.
I have some of the Lucas red, and it's GC-LB rated. But I think I'm gonna pull the trigger on a tube of the Kendall (and a separate gun to keep it in; found a nice lever action Lincoln for under $20.) Right now, when the truck is cold, I can hear the rear hubs 'warbling' under side load (cornering at speed). Goes away after the bearings heat up, so I'm hoping an infusion of some new grease (with an injection needle through the sensor hole) will help them out for awhile longer.
littleblazer
Member
- Jul 6, 2014
- 9,267
I used the red and tacky on my gimble bearing once and I half blame it for being why it died. Since those are set up kind of loose the rollers slid rather than rolled and effed up the race. I use either belray water proof grease in everything... hard to find but literally holds up the best in the boat trailer wheel bearings and u joints (doesn't fling off) or the westmarine bearing grease which is the valvoline red minus the branding. The belray was in the hub on the jetski trailer that sat for a year with salt water in it. No rust. Made noise but no rust.
We use red and tacky and the green one at work because the army engineers said to. Also because things like 2-4c can't be mixed with standard greases etc.
We use red and tacky and the green one at work because the army engineers said to. Also because things like 2-4c can't be mixed with standard greases etc.
Here is a Picture Follow Up on these two 'Rainy Day Arrivals' ...The 3/8" AND the 1/2" KLUTCH Force Multiplier Tools with 'Miked' Square Facing Tool Hex (Metric) Measurements imaged for anyone inclined to make their own Counter-Force Bars. These have a Beautiful Satin or Brushed Chrome appearance, some real 'Grenade' - Like Weight and look like Very Serious Tools for some Heavy Duty Unwinding Tasks. I was surprised to see them come in Blow-Molded Carry Cases... but when closed...they are indistinguishable, one from the other. It would have been nice though if they embossed the Chuck Sizes on the Upper Case. Great for Farms, Industry or Heavy Duty Truck and Tractor Repairs:
...and to arrive at "What Setting Should I use on My Torque Wrench when coupled to The KLUTCH Tool?" Just take whatever your Maximum Desired Torque needed is ...and Divide that Number by 3.4:
...and to arrive at "What Setting Should I use on My Torque Wrench when coupled to The KLUTCH Tool?" Just take whatever your Maximum Desired Torque needed is ...and Divide that Number by 3.4:
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Mounce
Member
Getting my roll-a-round rounded out and filled up, supposed to just be a couple more weeks till I take it to work and put it into daily duty.
New-new in there is tekton metric 1/4 full set, the red socket organizer (used different color for short wells, idk I wanted some variety lol), red box to the side is 7-19mm 3/8 deep impacts, and full set of e-torx sockets.
New-new in there is tekton metric 1/4 full set, the red socket organizer (used different color for short wells, idk I wanted some variety lol), red box to the side is 7-19mm 3/8 deep impacts, and full set of e-torx sockets.
Beacon
Member
Mounce
Member
I haven't seen them on a 360 but I haven't looked for them either. They're on the seat mounting nuts in my 03 Silverado. Lots and lots of newer vehicles have them everywhere around the engine and suspension.
littleblazer
Member
- Jul 6, 2014
- 9,267
A couple of the studs on the HVAC mounts and in other places I can't remember use the E-Torx... nothing you'd ever actually have to take apart. The escalade uses it in several places. Those universal 12 point sockets (the ones with the rounded edges) also work on them. I do have a set though. Never needed on the TB.
@Beacon ...I only know this from asking @BlazingTrails and @Mounce for Help about this quite a few years back when installing a Center Console in my son's 2003 Silverado. Later on the E-Torx Bits came in handy when working on the 2002 TB Seats and most recently on the Y2K Silverado for the Leather Seat Overhaul. I purchased the Shallow and the Deep Socket versions of these unique tools and IIANM, AutoZone should carry them. The "Grade 8" Steel Two Back Bolts often require an Un-Godly amount of effort to unwind... so using the Impact Grade versions are best.
The Two FRONT Seat Fasteners are "Grade 8" E-TORX NUTS that require a slender DEEP Impact Grade E-TORX #20 Socket because the Guide Rail Hole hides them. Having a Telescoping Pencil Magnet will make it EZR to get at the Front Fasteners as they'll turn sideways in the holes and become a PITA to dig out. The Two REAR Seat Fasteners are "Grade 8' E-TORX BOLTS that are accessible with a Standard Impact Grade E-TORX #16 Socket. Here are some related images:
The Two FRONT Seat Fasteners are "Grade 8" E-TORX NUTS that require a slender DEEP Impact Grade E-TORX #20 Socket because the Guide Rail Hole hides them. Having a Telescoping Pencil Magnet will make it EZR to get at the Front Fasteners as they'll turn sideways in the holes and become a PITA to dig out. The Two REAR Seat Fasteners are "Grade 8' E-TORX BOLTS that are accessible with a Standard Impact Grade E-TORX #16 Socket. Here are some related images:
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A Brief F/U to Post #456...
Thanks to @whodwho mentioning THIS Tool:
... I managed to find these two weird, "Beefed Up" HUGE size "Striker Wrenches" available on eBay suitable for Bracing and Restraining (via a Pipe End) the Hex Body Casements of the 3/8" and 1/2" KLUTCH "Nut Buster" Tool Kits:
Thanks to @whodwho mentioning THIS Tool:
... I managed to find these two weird, "Beefed Up" HUGE size "Striker Wrenches" available on eBay suitable for Bracing and Restraining (via a Pipe End) the Hex Body Casements of the 3/8" and 1/2" KLUTCH "Nut Buster" Tool Kits:
...and as promised... The VERY Last Photo-Play Update to Post #456 of the 1-3/8" GearWrench "Striker Wrench" for use as Counter-Force support to the "Smaller" 3/8"-> 1/2" KLUTCH Tool:
Uh... Not meaning to sound like a dumbass,, but what is that thing? How does it work? I have had wrenchs like that before, but not the ratchet thing.
YOU Sir.. Are NO Dumbass... Sorry for the lack of context but... @Reprise and @whodwho have a separate but related thread covering these interesting "Force Multiplying" assisting tools that are capable of converting MUCH less Torque on the input side ...and arrive at 3.4 Times more Twisting capability as the tool feeds the Low Power through these two different types of KLUTCH Brand Tools ...and comes Out the Other Side. I hope they both chime in with some more supporting anecdotal information. Think "Archimedes here... and the ENORMOUS Mechanical Advantage these Tools can provide to defeat these problems.
I recently took my lead from @whodwho in locating some Exotic Large Size SAE 12 Point Box End Wrenches (...called Striking Wrenches) to act in Resistance to the BODIES of these Tools while either a Regular 3/8" or 1/2" Ratchet, Breaker Bars (or Torque Wrenches for that Matter) are used when trying to break loose Fasteners that are ridiculously difficult to unwind. Like the Crankshaft 'Jesus Bolts' on the 4.2L Engines. If THESE Tools in combination cannot Break Loose such recalcitrant Fasteners... Then they have probably been Arc Welded together!
My Daughter-In-Law's Dad has a HUGE Tractor up in Madison Florida with all kinds of Accessories . He is constantly having to fight with them when attaching or removing components under Rain or Shine conditions and they ALL wind up getting Rusted Up Solid whenever these gear Swaps need doing. I hope to make a present of the 1/2" KLUTCH Tool Kit to him the next time my Wife and I venture up to North Florida for a visit with my Children and Grand-Children.
I recently took my lead from @whodwho in locating some Exotic Large Size SAE 12 Point Box End Wrenches (...called Striking Wrenches) to act in Resistance to the BODIES of these Tools while either a Regular 3/8" or 1/2" Ratchet, Breaker Bars (or Torque Wrenches for that Matter) are used when trying to break loose Fasteners that are ridiculously difficult to unwind. Like the Crankshaft 'Jesus Bolts' on the 4.2L Engines. If THESE Tools in combination cannot Break Loose such recalcitrant Fasteners... Then they have probably been Arc Welded together!
My Daughter-In-Law's Dad has a HUGE Tractor up in Madison Florida with all kinds of Accessories . He is constantly having to fight with them when attaching or removing components under Rain or Shine conditions and they ALL wind up getting Rusted Up Solid whenever these gear Swaps need doing. I hope to make a present of the 1/2" KLUTCH Tool Kit to him the next time my Wife and I venture up to North Florida for a visit with my Children and Grand-Children.
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In case somebody is interested in one of these, another option I found when searching and that is a bit more reasonable(~15$) then the wrenches @MRRSM and I are using for the 1/2 unit is a wrench for rear axle of the old VW bus that is 46mm and uses a breaker bar.
I have one of these buried somewhere from my old VW days but still haven't stumbled across it yet.
I have one of these buried somewhere from my old VW days but still haven't stumbled across it yet.
I know I'll probably wind up getting 'Hammered' (appropriate here as an 'On-Topic' Punishment) for Posting a Media Item on "Tool Talk"... But... THIS is just such a COOL Video about the The Origins of Screwdriver Designs and how one intrepid man named Mr. Robertson from Canada conceived a BRILLIANT Idea for a Unique method for Driving Fasteners.
This Video also covers a WHOLE lot more about the Evolution of Screws and Screw Drivers; first by the 'Mechanics" who literally screwed the Steel Armor onto the bodies of the Knights of Old. Then a bit later... about their use in Carpentry. And even Quite LATER ON, courtesy the Canadian Mr. Robertson's Inventions, their acceptance for use in the Manufacture of the Ford Model "T"s.
It follows that a JUST A BIT LATER ON... the VOP describes their use by General Motors as the First Car Manufacturer to employ "Phillips Head Screws and Fasteners" using the Redoubtable "Phillips Head Screw Drivers" to put their Production Line Cars into service for those of US who Drive them ...to this very day!
This Video also covers a WHOLE lot more about the Evolution of Screws and Screw Drivers; first by the 'Mechanics" who literally screwed the Steel Armor onto the bodies of the Knights of Old. Then a bit later... about their use in Carpentry. And even Quite LATER ON, courtesy the Canadian Mr. Robertson's Inventions, their acceptance for use in the Manufacture of the Ford Model "T"s.
It follows that a JUST A BIT LATER ON... the VOP describes their use by General Motors as the First Car Manufacturer to employ "Phillips Head Screws and Fasteners" using the Redoubtable "Phillips Head Screw Drivers" to put their Production Line Cars into service for those of US who Drive them ...to this very day!
When it comes to Automotive Diagnostics… it’s an understatement to mention the accuracy of @Blckshdw ‘s famous epigram:
“If You DON’T Have Pictures… IT DID NOT HAPPEN...”
But most of the time when we work away on our vehicles, the areas of concern that need to be Photographed or Videotaped are either Difficult to Access… Difficult to bring into Focus… and/or Damned Near Impossible to Accomplish because we cannot Hold The Camera Steady... AND Turn The Key and Start (or Turn Over) the Engine ...simultaneously.
I searched Amazon this morning looking for these devices and spied one (The Amazon Best Seller) that looks like it has all of the qualities necessary ...and for Not TOO Much Money at under $14.00. So I ordered two of these: One that I’ll modify with a Neodymium Magnet for Under Body Frame Attachment Use… and the other via the Glass Suction Cup for use on the Inner and Outer Windshield and for Inner Outer Side Window(s) attachment:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0721B4TW4/?tag=gmtnation-20
“If You DON’T Have Pictures… IT DID NOT HAPPEN...”
But most of the time when we work away on our vehicles, the areas of concern that need to be Photographed or Videotaped are either Difficult to Access… Difficult to bring into Focus… and/or Damned Near Impossible to Accomplish because we cannot Hold The Camera Steady... AND Turn The Key and Start (or Turn Over) the Engine ...simultaneously.
I searched Amazon this morning looking for these devices and spied one (The Amazon Best Seller) that looks like it has all of the qualities necessary ...and for Not TOO Much Money at under $14.00. So I ordered two of these: One that I’ll modify with a Neodymium Magnet for Under Body Frame Attachment Use… and the other via the Glass Suction Cup for use on the Inner and Outer Windshield and for Inner Outer Side Window(s) attachment:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0721B4TW4/?tag=gmtnation-20
Attachments
m.mcmillen
Member
Last week I replaced the water pump on a 2013 Ford Explorer. The cam phasers all had to come out to get the chains off. The bolts heads on these bolts are called "torx plus". Well, these bolts were extremely tight and the last one actually stripped out the head of the bolt.
Irwin makes these great twist sockets and have saved me numerous times and they did again (see attached photos) Check it out - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000QW6K8I/?tag=gmtnation-20
Also, a shoutout to the Snapon FLL80 ratchet also pictured (24 inch handle). It works great on caliper bolts in tight areas. https://shop.snapon.com/product/Dua...80-Technology-Extra-Long-Handle-Ratchet/FLL80
Irwin makes these great twist sockets and have saved me numerous times and they did again (see attached photos) Check it out - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000QW6K8I/?tag=gmtnation-20
Also, a shoutout to the Snapon FLL80 ratchet also pictured (24 inch handle). It works great on caliper bolts in tight areas. https://shop.snapon.com/product/Dua...80-Technology-Extra-Long-Handle-Ratchet/FLL80
Attachments
Great reaction to a "Mechanic's Nightmare"...
FWIW ... GearWrench makes a 'NSOQ' (Near Snap On Quality) Two-Fer for both an Extra Long Chrome 18" 3/8" Drive Ratchet (a decent Lookalike to the FLL80) that INCLUDES an Extra Long GearWrench Chrome 1/4" Drive Ratchet...available on eBay for $65.90 with FREE S&H from JBTOOLS:
More images available over on my "Flickr-Bucket":
www.flickr.com
FWIW ... GearWrench makes a 'NSOQ' (Near Snap On Quality) Two-Fer for both an Extra Long Chrome 18" 3/8" Drive Ratchet (a decent Lookalike to the FLL80) that INCLUDES an Extra Long GearWrench Chrome 1/4" Drive Ratchet...available on eBay for $65.90 with FREE S&H from JBTOOLS:
Electronics, Cars, Fashion, Collectibles & More | eBay
Buy & sell electronics, cars, clothes, collectibles & more on eBay, the world's online marketplace. Top brands, low prices & free shipping on many items.
rover.ebay.com
More images available over on my "Flickr-Bucket":
GEARWRENCH RATCHETS
These Images depict the 3/8" and 1/4" Extra Long 120 Fine Mechanism Ratchets sold in a set by GearWrench, These are Elegant Instruments for working in Tight and Confined Automotive applications.
www.flickr.com
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Beacon
Member
This gives me hope, I ordered Irwin's deep well version, 2 weeks ago to remove a rusty spark plug, just haven't been home to try it yet.
m.mcmillen
Member
I was honestly surprised. This was a last ditch effort. It was the phaser on the back. No room to drill or anything. My next step after this was to pull the cam out and get it out on the bench and weld a nut to the head.
Mounce
Member
Can you explain the difference between standard torx and torx plus? I've only recently heard of torx plus and did some looking but couldn't find anything that visually showed me a difference.
m.mcmillen
Member
I had never heard of it before I did this job. When I was researching the tools needed, I found out. Here’s a picture of it. Basically the splines on it are wider. It almost looks like they cut cut the number of splines in half so they wouldn’t be as prone to break.
Attachments
Mounce
Member
When servicing the 4L60E Transmission and other special components such as splitting the Bell Housing sections apart... a Standard Torx Internal Bit will Strip out the center of the Fasteners... because the keyed Fastener Insert holes are DEEPER. This is an image of that special Torx Plus Bit with its greater cut out depth for performing the Transmission service. Here is a link to its description:
Cascade Transmission Parts - Automatic Rebuild & Repair Parts
Discount Automatic Transmission Components Large Inventory of Automatic Parts all in Stock ! FAST FREE SHIPPING - ALL U.S. ORDERS
www.cascadetransmissionparts.com
Beacon
Member
Has anyone seen a tool similar to this, except I need it to open up a little more. These only go to 1/2 inch.
Bolt and Stud Extractor Tool | Removes Damaged even Broken Studs and Blots - - Amazon.com
Bolt and Stud Extractor Tool | Removes Damaged even Broken Studs and Blots - - Amazon.com
www.amazon.com
Yes… in my “Hoping For Loping” Thread... Page 2, Post #58, Post #64 and Post #66 covers EVERYTHING you’ll want to know about the Problems with Broken Studs and Bolts with information about the Two Different kinds of Excellent Tools or Kits available on Amazon that will solve such Problems:
https://gmtnation.com/forums/threads/hoping-for-loping.18519/page-2
https://gmtnation.com/forums/threads/hoping-for-loping.18519/page-2