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Never heard any of my friends complain about that around here and I am about the only one still rocking the single din. My one buddy has had a Kenwood touchscreen in his jeep for years and never had an issue.
 
I don't think the physical size of the head unit really makes a difference. Do you mean the touch screens get funny?

If it is a resistive touch screen yeah I can see that being a problem. Capacitive screens aren't as affected, but then if you have gloves on you run into issues with the touch screen actually responding to your gloved fingers!
 
@Sparky his is one of the older ones and the screen isn't very responsive in the cold.
 
Technology has come a long way...
 
BlazingTrails said:
Help me gawd!! I just did a full led conversion on the camper lighting! 921 smd's pnp
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If it has a house battery that is good power conservation imo.

I need to use this ultrasonic for more stuff. I rebuilt the carb on the snowblower and it came out real nice.
 
I have an old elecelon kenwood dnx9140 double din. It is a 2008 model and it had no issues with response to touch on the touch screen when it was -15F last winter. Being LCD, it did not get up to full brightness until it warmed up though.
 
Well my Wallet got the "Money pouring out like water" modification this week...New exhaust system on the C10, Several new parts for the C10 for tune up, As well as a carb kit for the Qjet carb in the C10 and a rebuild kit for the Carter carb in the Rat Rod...
 
Nice agm?
 
SnowBlazer said:
I should buy an LED cargo light. Like one Sparky has.
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I built it using LED panels and made a support bracket out of sheet metal (aka tin can lol) it works well. I could build your cargo light into one as well. Or sell you mine next year ha It doesn't look pretty inside but it works!

*edit* Optima sucks ever since they went to Mexico. Maybe they've gotten better again, but I cannot see how it is worth the extra cost over a decent Napa Gold, Duralast Gold, etc.
 
That's what I figured. It is only really ugly behind the LED panels anyway so take the lens off you see nice neat LED panels.
 
Using my truck more lately after dark i am really wanting to get more perimeter lighting...mod time!
 
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HARDTRAILZ said:
I am hopefully upgrading the Alpine to a double din touch Kenwood so I should be able to have a camera.
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SnowBlazer said:
Double dins don't perform very well in the cold. My prelude buddy has a Pioneer and it freezes in the cold. No pun intended.
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Yes sir that unit I'm sending does have the option for rear camera. :celebrate:

I've never had an issue with the touch screen when cold out. Hmmm
 
HARDTRAILZ said:
Using my truck more lately after dark i am really wanting to get more perimeter lighting...mod time!
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Ever since nyc has changed out all the street lights to led its become harder to see people out in front as im driving. They are bright when your looking toward them but the light i guess isnt as reflective as an incandescent bulb. I'm glad my voy has that extra bulb that turns on when I put my blinker on and the fact that I switched it to an led helps even more.
So I've been thinking of doing the same adding a light bar some where up front or switching my headlights out all together. Or maybe I'm jus getting old and my eyes aren't as good. Lol
 
Please remember if you use a light bar on the street to treat it like high beams. Had some guy come the other way with his light bar on and man are those things blinding.
 
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That is about all an Optima is worth since they went to mexico:biggrin:, but for $50 i would buy one.:Lager Louts:

I never run the bars on the street except in the middle of nowhere to watch for deer. I am definitely careful with them.:cool:

I am doing some small round led driving/fog lights in the new bumper to be able to use them on road more:Rumour:
 
HARDTRAILZ said:
That is about all an Optima is worth since they went to mexico:biggrin:, but for $50 i would buy one.:Lager Louts:
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I have personally had great results using Optima batteries, I'm guessing you like a lot of people have succumbed to the rumors on the web that the quality of the batteries were not what they used to be?

Here is an article (there are many like it) that may give everyone some insight on the optima batteries.

http://www.carbatterychargerscentral.com/optima-batteries-same-high-quality-as-ever/

This is to everyone (Not directed at Kyle)

If you hear something on the forums or online that does not necessarily make it true, if you have personal experience that's one thing, but just hearing and spreading rumors is another. Do your own research!!

I like Optima Batteries, and will continue to use them in the future. :tiphat:

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The old gal runs a little better with a good battery :yes:
 
I just refuse to spend the extra money because I am not convinced it is really any better than any other half decent battery out there.
 
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I ran my red top down to about 7 or 8 volts (maybe lower) 8 or 9 times now in the last 3 months... I paid... the shop paid 180 for it. I got it for free. :2thumbsup: I'd buy another.
 
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Sparky said:
I just refuse to spend the extra money because I am not convinced it is really any better than any other half decent battery out there.
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And there is nothing wrong with that, it is a personal choice. But the benefits to an AGM (Absorbed Glass Mat) Battery is that they are much more stable, they are sealed, you do not have to add distilled water annually, and they just flat out last longer. A lot of people do not know what it means to properly maintain a battery, there is more to it than cleaning the terminals when they stop working. :yes:

There are other benefits to AGM batteries, like the fact that they last well over twice as long as a Lead acid battery. most reputable lead acid batteries are rated for 4-5 years, while most AGM batteries are rated for 8-10 years. The construction makes it nearly impossible for the plates to short out, because there is a non conductive mat in between the circular "plates" as opposed to flat open "flooded" plates that get corroded or warp when fully discharged causing dead cells.

So basically Double the price double the life. Some may say it is 6 in one half dozen the other, but I lean toward the non maintenance battery myself.

:tequila:
 
I will also say that the orginal battery from the sierra is still around and load tests at near oem. But the reserve capacity is gone. If the radio is on for an hour it won't start. But I have it around the house as an incase of emergency battery. It was the 7 year delco and it's reserve was good till midway of the 7th year. That also has an optima now for the same reason (shop paid for it.) Agms are excellent, which is why I don't understand why theyre not popular with boats yet. Granted the walmart marine battery in my boat lets you crank the engine for well over a half hour before it even starts to slow down. That one is like 10 years old now. It was on a 325 i6 volvo diesel up until about 2 years ago. Replaced out of preventing an incident more then anything. But we were on top of topping off with distilled water and it was kept topped off on a marine... basically a battery tender. As with any thing maintenance is key.
 
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I love my AGM battery
 
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Was screwing around looking at old stuff n the other site i had marked and now I want an H2 shifter again, but cant find anything for a decent price.
 
HARDTRAILZ said:
I want an H2 shifter again, but cant find anything for a decent price.
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Funny you mention that, I was looking at Stabilitrack shifters again too, and wondering what I could wire up to that button. It would be a short wiring extension to move my power folding mirror kill switch there. Or possibly not need any extension if I move the relay to the radio stack, instead of the rear fuse block.
 
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Wonder if the H2 had Stabilitrak?? Do not remember reading on that when I was looking earlier. I never use the button, but would like to have the option if needed.
 
Anyone know of any other ones that have been swapped into our platform? Some of the newer stock shifters are pretty nice and can be found reasonably
 
So was installing my snazzy new reverse cam on the Silverado that is supposed to be even better than the OEM one (work better in low light situations). It has a set of plugs on the wiring so you can unplug it and still remove the tailgate if necessary.

Well, supposed to be able to.

The wire is 19 inches long to the plug. It needs to be probably at least 24 inches long to actually reach outside the tailgate, through the holes, and under the truck. Dang it!
 
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