Support Group/Thread For Mod Addiction or MA
- Thread starter BlazingTrails
- Start date
Mounce
Member
This ^^24v 4.2 said:
What you're trying to do is upgrade those connections so most use some beefy wire for it.
Mounce
Member
4 gauge or above is what I'd say most use. Idk for sure what's recommended, I just know that most use 1/0 which is massive lol.
littleblazer
Member
- Jul 6, 2014
- 9,267
Sparky
Member
- Dec 4, 2011
- 12,927
4/0? that would be a tad bit overkill lol
BTW, for those who don't know, 4/0 is 4 ought or 0000 gauge wire. We're not trying to implode the universe by dividing by zero here
BTW, for those who don't know, 4/0 is 4 ought or 0000 gauge wire. We're not trying to implode the universe by dividing by zero here
littleblazer
Member
- Jul 6, 2014
- 9,267
Divide by zero error! [emoji6]Sparky said:4/0? that would be a tad bit overkill lol
BTW, for those who don't know, 4/0 is 4 ought or 0000 gauge wire. We're not trying to implode the universe by dividing by zero here
Blckshdw
Moderator
I never really felt the need to do the big 3 until about a week ago. Was driving home from St Pete after watching the first half of the football game, had the windows down and stereo blasting. Since there was almost no traffic, I could clearly see my HIDs flickering with the harder bass hits. With the windows up, I don't need the volume that high, so it's never been an issue before until then.
Looked at the PCM of NC kit, on the fence whether or not I'd wanna drop $40 for it. Definitely not, if that's the price for the Big 2 kit
Edit: Just watched May03LTs video on big 3 upgrades. Consider myself educated
Looked at the PCM of NC kit, on the fence whether or not I'd wanna drop $40 for it. Definitely not, if that's the price for the Big 2 kit
Edit: Just watched May03LTs video on big 3 upgrades. Consider myself educated
HARDTRAILZ
Moderator
- Nov 18, 2011
- 49,665
24v 4.2
Member
- Jan 16, 2013
- 430
The link you posted is for the 3 cable kit.Blckshdw said:I never really felt the need to do the big 3 until about a week ago. Was driving home from St Pete after watching the first half of the football game, had the windows down and stereo blasting. Since there was almost no traffic, I could clearly see my HIDs flickering with the harder bass hits. With the windows up, I don't need the volume that high, so it's never been an issue before until then.
Looked at the PCM of NC kit, on the fence whether or not I'd wanna drop $40 for it. Definitely not, if that's the price for the Big 2 kit
Edit: Just watched May03LTs video on big 3 upgrades. Consider myself educated
SnowBlazer
Member
littleblazer
Member
- Jul 6, 2014
- 9,267
SnowBlazer
Member
Lol nope. Gonna get sparky's lift when he parts his rig.littleblazer said:
HARDTRAILZ
Moderator
- Nov 18, 2011
- 49,665
Okay guys need some help. I nabbed this OEM hood compartment light from a TB at the Pick n' Pull, my TB doesn't have one of coarse being an 04, but I could rig it I'm sure. First off, the connector's wires were pulled leaving me with just a bare plug. What do you suggest I do there? Find a new plug with wires attached still? Doesn't seem like I'll be able to get any wires down in it to make contact down to the female ends. Next, I would like to test it, but I haven't been able to get it to work yet. I've been using my typical little tester I have that I usually use for when I am working on LEDs. I tried figuring out the polarity on this, since its not obvious. No matter what I tried can't get it to light up. Is there something I'm missing here? Do I need a bigger power source or something?
Mounce
Member
You sure that led panel is good? If you've swapped polarity and it doesn't work then take it out and verify that it works, if it works then there must be a short or open circuit within the light.
As for powering 12v leds, you don't have to have anything special. I use a 9v battery to test mine.
As for powering 12v leds, you don't have to have anything special. I use a 9v battery to test mine.
It is good, worked great when I had the Yukon. Switched sides to see of polarity was wrong, but nothing is working. Also tried to test everything with the stock bulb too.
Mounce
Member
Blckshdw
Moderator
If you have the plug that goes into it, you just need to determine what pins you need, order them from Mouser or DigiKey for a few pennies. Crimp in some new wiring (I know BT has some fancy crimp toolsCapote said:
) pop the new pins into the connector and keep it moving.Can you test the light housing for continuity? You could put your power supply on one set of contacts and your meter on the other to make sure the circuit is getting completed. This removes polarity from the equation.
Mounce
Member
Try tilting the apparatus different ways, would be cool if they had a tilt switch built in and were just fed constant power.
After typing that, it sounds so right. I'm not sure but I doubt the hoods have switches on them so how else would it know to come on?
I could be completely wrong though.
After typing that, it sounds so right. I'm not sure but I doubt the hoods have switches on them so how else would it know to come on?
I could be completely wrong though.
Got it work guys, the tilt switch inside of it is getting jammed up...[emoji58] now I just need to fix the plug so I can wire it up. Too easy after thatBlckshdw said:If you have the plug that goes into it, you just need to determine what pins you need, order them from Mouser or DigiKey for a few pennies. Crimp in some new wiring (I know BT has some fancy crimp tools
Can you test the light housing for continuity? You could put your power supply on one set of contacts and your meter on the other to make sure the circuit is getting completed. This removes polarity from the equation.
And yes Garth, I knew it was activated by a tilt switch
Mounce
Member
Ehh I'm willing to try it out, if it completely stop working after I put it on, I'll see if I can find another.Sparky said:
- Apr 27, 2014
- 19,409
Mounce
Member
Diode link made for my version of 4-hi on a 96 Silverado (only applicable if you're running wiring harnesses for both highs and lows). Extra points for remembering to mark the cathode side on the wire before heat shrinking it unlike other times that I've made them for other vehicles lol
Darkrider_LS
Member
- Jan 25, 2013
- 9,332
So...as i have kinda hinted at in the whore thread that i was looking at a couple Squarebody Chevy trucks...one was a '77 GMC C25 with a 350/4 speed and the other is an '84 Chevy C10 with a 350 Olds Rocket/TH400 combo. The C25 didnt work out because the original owner found out my buddy had it and wanted it back. So i ended up with the C10. Now this thing is already partially modified mostly because of the 350 Oldsmobile Rocket engine swap. Initially we thought it was a 350 Olds Diesel truck that had the engine swapped out when it went. But it turns out it was originally a 305 V8 gas truck according to the Vin number and a couple decals under the hood. Now that i have it home i have already started working on mod plans for it. Biggest one being getting the exhaust redone next month...Still debating how im going to go about that..either keep the fabbed up Y pipe someone put in during the swap..or go back to the cross over pipe/down pipe off of the right side manifold that the Olds had originally. Either way it will be getting a Dynomax super turbo muffler since i got one at a car show earlier this year.
#racetruck dude
On another note, do you guys remember which cabin air filter is used when we do that mod for our TB's that don't have one? I need the filter #. Figured I'd do that today. Tired of damn dust getting in my rig despite of often I wipe her down inside
On another note, do you guys remember which cabin air filter is used when we do that mod for our TB's that don't have one? I need the filter #. Figured I'd do that today. Tired of damn dust getting in my rig despite of often I wipe her down inside
Blckshdw
Moderator
Successfully modded my bedroom sliding doors. True test will be in the morning, as it's trash day for the apartments next door.
Now I can hear you...
Now I don't (hoepfully)...
True test will be in the morning, as it's trash day for the apartments next door.Now I can hear you...
Now I don't (hoepfully)...
Same one as the silverados, don't remember the part number, but don't think it matters since it's just a coouple of rectangles.Capote said:
I like what you did there, I need some of that for my annoying loud neighbors....I cringe every time I hear themBlckshdw said:Successfully modded my bedroom sliding doors.
Now I can hear you...
Now I don't (hoepfully)...
Same one as the silverados, don't remember the part number, but don't think it matters since it's just a coouple of rectangles.
I remember its a Silverado one as well, but there was a specific one that fit perfectly, I don't want any gaps ya see
Sparky
Member
- Dec 4, 2011
- 12,927
01-03 Silverado IIRC. Around that. They removed them from the later Silverados as well.Capote said:
There is a kit for the 07+ Silverado out there that I will possibly get for my truck at some point. I have this hankering to do more mods. A basic 2" front leveling kit for it is only like 30 bucks
Mounce
Member
What's that just torsion keys? I'm impressed with how cheap they are. If you're super cheap you can lift it about an inch (or so) with the stock keys by turning the bolts.
Tool to change them with is like $40 though but I've heard they might be available to rent at parts stores. That or you can improvise with a 2-jaw puller but it's sketchy because it's not retained on there like the special tools are and could slip off and ruin many of your days if it hits your face.
Tool to change them with is like $40 though but I've heard they might be available to rent at parts stores. That or you can improvise with a 2-jaw puller but it's sketchy because it's not retained on there like the special tools are and could slip off and ruin many of your days if it hits your face.
Sparky
Member
- Dec 4, 2011
- 12,927
07+ GMT900 1/2 ton trucks actually use a coilover front shock similar to the GMT360 which is quite nice. Rides better than torsion bars too. 3/4 ton and higher use the torsion bars still because they are stronger but for a 1/2 ton the coils work great.
The level spacer goes between the lower control arm and the bottom of the shock. There is enough flex left in the suspension that the spacer won't over stress the CV axles. It is 1" tall but because of the suspension geometry it results in an almost 2" lift.
I'd really like the 4" CST suspension lift but that's really expensive.
The level spacer goes between the lower control arm and the bottom of the shock. There is enough flex left in the suspension that the spacer won't over stress the CV axles. It is 1" tall but because of the suspension geometry it results in an almost 2" lift.
I'd really like the 4" CST suspension lift but that's really expensive.
littleblazer
Member
- Jul 6, 2014
- 9,267
Thanks, I've only seen STP and Fram brands around here though[emoji58]littleblazer said:
littleblazer
Member
- Jul 6, 2014
- 9,267
Competitor Name Competitor PartCapote said:
BOSCH P3730
DEFENSE DC031
GENERAL MOTORS 52473340
HASTINGS AFC1114
KLEENER CAF1707
KLEENER CAF7707
PRONTO PC-5388
PUROLATOR C15388
SERVICE PRO MC15388
STP CAF7707
WIX 24805
